How to: 1st Gen Gas Tank Fuel Pump Access Panel

[J_C]

Interesting that Ford didn't think of providing us with a removable trap door to the fuel pump?

Not enough customer demand for it. The typical person buying a new ~ $25K vehicle back then wasn't thinking about how hard the fuel pump would be to change years later. They still aren't today.

 

[bluestream1]

Not enough customer demand for it. The typical person buying a new ~ $25K vehicle back then wasn't thinking about how hard the fuel pump would be to change years later. They still aren't today.

Its not really what the consumer wants or doesn't want. Its about whether the manufactures cares about the tech who has to change this pump down the road. Most other companies do, but Ford does not. They would rather save $5.00 per vehicle and increase their profit, and let the tech/owner deal with the headaches. Its very short sighted in my opinion

I don't think I will buy another Domestic vehicle for this reason.

 

[J_C]

^ Every vehicle has its faults. Trying to lump it into domestic vs import would simply be ignoring faults of any import vehicles.

No manufacturer expects consumer oriented vehicle owners to change their own fuel pump. Besides, it's really not a big deal to unbolt or cut straps to do it given a pump, lift, and jack... all things any decent shop has.

 

[Meriden]

I'm finishing this project today and there are a handful of posts suggesting that this cannot be done on certain Gen II Explorers due to the pump being too far back. The photo below is an example of the problem:

The tank on my '96 XLT 4 door is sloped at the front, putting the pump farther back and under the body sub-frame. I thought about cutting that sub-frame and decided against it since the cut would be between where the sub-frame mounts to the frame rail and the set belt anchor. I may still use the hole to remove the pump once I've lowered the tank, saving me the trouble of removing all the hoses and pulling the tank from under the truck.

I suggest that anyone planning this on a Gen II cut a small hole in line with the back bolt on the center seat belt anchor and check the location of the pump before they get rowdy with the snips.

m

 

[Abbondanza]

you don't need to drop the tank. I have a 2nd gen and look at my pictures earlier in this thread (bottom of page 5)..I got it out with the cut... not pretty but better than dropping the tank (or so I hear) looks like you started your cut too far forward and didn't go back far enough..you won't totally clear the back of the pump , but you can angle the old pump out and new one in.http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182160&page=5

 

[Meriden]

I'll post another two photos that are more inclusive:

I cut a pretty big hole to start with, but after some thought decided not to cut through the body sub-frame. I also spent some time looking at the photo on the forum and at my installation. It appears that most of the photos before mine show the pump aligned with the front bold on the seat belt anchor while mine is much closer to the back bolt. Somebody with the right cutting tool could remove enough of the body sub-frame to get it out but I'm not sure it's less work than the way I did it.

Anyway, I managed to change it out. Dropping the tank down a few inches to get the pump out was so darned easy. It turned out to be three bolts and a floor jack. And now to patch the hole...

 

[Abbondanza]

yes you needed to get more of the subframe to wiggle it out without dropping the tank..glad you got it done though...congrats!

 

[Meriden]

Final follow-up. The pump is installed, the Ex running, and the fuel gauge doesn't work. I'll piddle with that problem later, but in the meantime I'll use the trip odometer to keep up with miles between fill ups. I made a couple of aluminum panels to cover the holes.

And now on to the driver's door.

 

[atxjax]

Newbie here. Thanks for allowing me on the forum.


I have a 97 Mountaineer with the V8. Looking to replace the pump and want to cut a door. Am I going to run into the same issue as the 2nd Gen Explorers where the pump is too far back and have to cut through subframe?

 

[Meriden]

Look at post 96 and then post 146. In post 96 the pump is aligned with the forward bolt on the seat belt anchor. In 146 it is closer to the back bolt. If I were doing another one I would drill one or two holes to see how the pump aligns with the bolts on the seat belt anchor before starting. To Abbondanza's point, it will work either way, you just have to cut more if the pump is mounted toward the back. I found having the port useful even though I had to drop the tank because I didn't have to remove the hoses, etc.

 

[Flying Fox]

.
---USE A NIBBLER TO CUT THE SHEET METAL!!! ---

I strongly suggest that no one use a grinder or anything else that creates heat or sparks to cut a hatch near the fuel tank! Others may have been lucky but you could be the one who sets your Explorer on fire - or worse - has it go up in a blast right in your face.

Probably the best way to cut the hole would be to use a nibbler tool. You can get an inexpensive manual one, an air powered one, or an electric one. They are cheap at Harbor Freight. They all work the same. Carefully and slowly drill a starting hole with cutting oil so it does not get hot, using a stop collar on the drill bit to keep it from going any farther than barely through the sheet metal. Size it to fit the head of the nibbler - probably 3/8 or 1/2"

Insert the head and operate the nibbler along the line you wish to cut. It literally nibbles little chunks of metal away as you move along the line. You can turn it to make a corner. Very quick, clean, and cool.

,

 

[Flying Fox]

.
--- ADDENDUM ---

My 95 Explorer would crank but would not start. I could tell that the pump was not running as I turned the key towards start, because I did not hear the usual "whirr" from the pump for the first few seconds.

Replacing the pump is a last resort so I started with easy checks.

I wiggled a few connectors to sensors and such, especially one that I had fail previously. No change.

Then I removed the pump relay, rapped it smartly against the panel above the radiator a number of times on all sides, and reinserted it. My theory was that the contacts are getting old and pitted, OR a thin film of oxide may have formed on the connector tabs. Tapping aggressively should bounce the contacts enough to "clean" them at least a little. The relay is sealed so I couldn't see the contacts, but as a last resort I could have cut the relay case open and cleaned them that way.

But now I hear the pump run and the motor starts normally. Rapping the relay seemed to do the job.

I took the relay out, cleaned the connectors, added some silicone dielectric on them, and reinstalled it, and it should hold until I get to the auto parts store to buy a replacement. I can't complain much - the relay lasted 249,750 miles!

.

 

[FasterFrank]

I have read to Page 8 inclusive and have found no info on cutting the access port out of a Gen 3, 2002 Explorer XLT 4 door.

Has anyone tried this on a Generation 3?
If so, can you point me to the thread please?

Thanks!
Faster Frank

 

[FasterFrank]

Yes - OR

.
--- ADDENDUM ---

My 95 Explorer would crank but would not start. I could tell that the pump was not running as I turned the key towards start, because I did not hear the usual "whirr" from the pump for the first few seconds.

Replacing the pump is a last resort so I started with easy checks.

I wiggled a few connectors to sensors and such, especially one that I had fail previously. No change.

Then I removed the pump relay, rapped it smartly against the panel above the radiator a number of times on all sides, and reinserted it. My theory was that the contacts are getting old and pitted, OR a thin film of oxide may have formed on the connector tabs. Tapping aggressively should bounce the contacts enough to "clean" them at least a little. The relay is sealed so I couldn't see the contacts, but as a last resort I could have cut the relay case open and cleaned them that way.

But now I hear the pump run and the motor starts normally. Rapping the relay seemed to do the job.

I took the relay out, cleaned the connectors, added some silicone dielectric on them, and reinstalled it, and it should hold until I get to the auto parts store to buy a replacement. I can't complain much - the relay lasted 249,750 miles!

.

You can try swapping the relay in question with one you know to be working. In the Gen 3 Explorer XLT, for instance, there are relays either side of Dead Link Removed (fuel pump relay) that are identical and which you can see they work by looking at the High Beams before you swap the relays one for the other.
ps. don't try this particular swap at night whilst driving

 

[Flying Fox]

.

I did pick up a replacement relay at the auto parts store - plus a spare since there are two other relays which are the same vintage and might fail. Having a spare might get me out of a jam some day!

Funny thing - I put the new relay in and it didn't work immediately. I took it out, tapped it, and it has been working fine ever since! Probably a small bit of manufacturing oil on the points.

If one uses one of the other relays as a temporary replacement, as advised in the prior message - just be sure that the relays have the identical pinout and diagram on the side. And also that the relay is not for an essential function such as a control module, etc.

In general the reason relays fail is because the contact points get worn, pitted, or oxidized and the tapping trick will often get them working again - at least temporarily. The rest of the parts inside - coil, spring, etc - are very reliable and not likely to fail!

Of course the blades connecting the relay to the power box can also oxidize, as can the socket contacts, especially if water has gotten in the box.

.

 

[drdoom]

I'll post another two photos that are more inclusive:

I cut a pretty big hole to start with, but after some thought decided not to cut through the body sub-frame. I also spent some time looking at the photo on the forum and at my installation. It appears that most of the photos before mine show the pump aligned with the front bold on the seat belt anchor while mine is much closer to the back bolt. Somebody with the right cutting tool could remove enough of the body sub-frame to get it out but I'm not sure it's less work than the way I did it.

Anyway, I managed to change it out. Dropping the tank down a few inches to get the pump out was so darned easy. It turned out to be three bolts and a floor jack. And now to patch the hole...

That's a mess

 

[FasterFrank]

Good post, Doc!

 

[Austin96]

Here are a few more pictures of the process. I had to cut mine because the fuel float was cracked and needed to be replaced. Soldering the float isn't easy. If you have a big crack in it, the solder will just fall right through as you move along... If you solder correctly. Don't use epoxy: the gas will eat right through it.


This is on a two door 1993 model.
The fuel lines are 3/8" and 5/16". You can buy the combination tool for about $8 at Auto Zone. Don't even bother with the plastic tools. They are a waste of time and money for most fuel line work, even the kind with the longer sleeves. You can expect the fuel line tines to be stuck.. Don't be afraid to work the coupling up and down while you're using the tool. Put some linear mojo on 'em.


I found some 18-ga or so stainless steel for a patch and used the bandsaw at work to cut it. I cut it 10"x11", which left about two inches of overlap to fasten it down. So far all I've done is drilled a hole for the small non-seat-holding stud, threaded the nut tightly onto it, and speed taped all around the patch. I plan on using a combination of rivets and self-drilling screws to hold it in place permanently. Oh and some black RTV underneath.

All I did to access the pump, by the way, was drill a 3/8" hole off to one side and then cut an H-shape with some aviation tin snips. I just curled the metal back to access the pump, and when I was done, I curled the metal right back in place. Used some 16" channel locks and a ball pein both times.


Anyone wanting more pics can just post asking for them and I'll get em posted up.

HI. OLD POST but popular one. I have a 93 - Navajo ( 2 door) and trying to pinpoint where I need to cut from above. These pictures may have expired. What are the chances you still have these around? I have an idea but would be nice to have visual references for it. Also under the carpet is a long plastic cover running along the bottom of both of the seats. Since I only removed the drivers side rear seat so far not sure what this thing is.
Thanks, ...

First is the far view:

Next the inside view where you'll be working:

Here are the nuts you need to remove:

Seat unbolted and out of the way - both seats need to be unbolted, because there's a piece of black plastic underneath the seats bolted down on either side. Don't have any idea what it does. I left mine out.

Far view:

Up close:

 

[Ken Whitmore]

Step 2: Prepare to cut your floor. I used a grinder with a small disk. The best tool for the job would be a dremel. They are small and will allow the margin for error to go nearly to zero.

Here is the size of cuts i made.

After you have made your cuts you may have to use the hammer and bend some of the metal around the edges to ensure that you do not slice you hand open while pulling the sending unit/gas pump unit.

When you are cutting you need to remember that the gas lines are there. When cutting you only have about a inch and a half of room. Dont go to deep and cut a line.

Reader beware: I made my cuts as accurately as I could using your photo and measurements as a guide, adding a diagonal cut to to remove the left-rear inward corner for safety, but my fuel pump assembly is mounted about 4 inches toward the passenger side compared with yours. I could still get all the screws out, with only the two furthest in requiring a 5/16" ratcheted box end wrench. Turns out I didn't need to cut away the vertical part towards the rear, since the pump assembly is also a bit forward compared to yours.

Due to such differences, I can't re-emphasize enough how important it is to keep the depth of your cuts to the very minimum needed! I used a 1/16" thick cutting wheel and managed to do it all without touching any fuel line or wiring, even with the differences of location of the pump.

 

[Burns]

Reader beware: I made my cuts as accurately as I could using your photo and measurements as a guide, adding a diagonal cut to to remove the left-rear inward corner for safety, but my fuel pump assembly is mounted about 4 inches toward the passenger side compared with yours. I could still get all the screws out, with only the two furthest in requiring a 5/16" ratcheted box end wrench. Turns out I didn't need to cut away the vertical part towards the rear, since the pump assembly is also a bit forward compared to yours.

Due to such differences, I can't re-emphasize enough how important it is to keep the depth of your cuts to the very minimum needed! I used a 1/16" thick cutting wheel and managed to do it all without touching any fuel line or wiring, even with the differences of location of the pump.

You always need to know your vehicle. At the time this was made the tank had been out twice so we knew where it was. If you do not know where yours is at you need to drop the tank.