How to: Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen

[rbkircher]

Worked great on my 2000 Explorer XLT

My display cut out this summer. Finally this fall I got serious about fixing it 'cause I like having that freeze warning. I pressed on or near the Mode button and sure enough it brought the display to life. However, the next day it was out and I had to do it again. I followed all the instructions and found both 510 resistors were loose on one end or the other. I heated the solder point and applied a little bit of solder and now works fine. It was tricky figuring out where all the torx screws were hidden and then how to slide out the assembly, but finally got it.

Thanks for the great solution.

 

[chefduane]

I don't know, but it's a relatively easy thing to re-solder the resistors. it might help. when I tested mine with my VOM i found one did not have continuity at all. I re-soldered mine with a $10 fine-point soldering iron, some flux and some electrical solder I bought at the hardware store. a very satisfying repair.

Well, the issue was not the overhead display at all. It was the Headlight Delay Slide Switch on the rearview mirror. I noticed that when the delay was off (slide all the way to the left) the overhead console would stay bright in daylight but the headlights were now in manual mode. When a delay was set (slide moved to the right a bit) the headlights would function properly with a delay shutoff but the direction/temp display was extremely dim, barely readable. Some investigation revealed a flakey slide switch. Bought an Amazon sourced replacement rearview mirror ($50 shipped) and now all is well.

 

[koda2000]

Well, the issue was not the overhead display at all. It was the Headlight Delay Slide Switch on the rearview mirror. I noticed that when the delay was off (slide all the way to the left) the overhead console would stay bright in daylight but the headlights were now in manual mode. When a delay was set (slide moved to the right a bit) the headlights would function properly with a delay shutoff but the direction/temp display was extremely dim, barely readable. Some investigation revealed a flakey slide switch. Bought an Amazon sourced replacement rearview mirror ($50 shipped) and now all is well.

glad to here you got it figured out. did you ever find the problem with your HVAC system?

 

[chefduane]

Nope. Never did. It miraculously 'healed' itself again about 3 weeks ago and has been functioning fine since. Ironically, AFTER I ordered and received a new actuator and blend door from RA. I'm going to hold on to them just in case, but I am still at a loss as to what is/was the problem. And even more confounded about why the problem is intermittent. At least for now its gone.

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Chef Duane (who does NOT have to cook tomorrow!!)

 

[Elkabong]

Sweet

Ill be trying this soon thanx man !!

 

[Elkabong]

Score

Worked like a charm thank you sir !!

 

[GX624]

Just wanted to chime in and say thank you. Mine was out for more than two years until I found this thread. A little solder and the display was back in business.

 

[nardbuster]

I've seen a few posts relating to the overhead console display going out over time.
I had the same problem, and found the culprit.
Let me start out by describing my specific overhead display:
Mine is in a ’99 Explorer Limited with sunroof. The display provides digital compass bearings and temp. The housing also has the two ‘spot’ lights for driver and passenger.
Picture below.
If yours isn’t exactly the same, but similar, I’ll bet that the problem is identical to mine.
This problem is related to solder failure, similar to the Mach radio display problem.
It's a resistor (or capacitor) that due to considerable heat, eventually loses its soldered contact at the board. You can confirm that this is the culprit before removing the console, by firmly pressing the "Mode" button, thus putting slight pressure on the board housed inside the display housing. If the display fades in slightly then goes out – or stays on for a few hours/days, then goes back out, you have likely tweaked the board slightly and brought temporary contact to the problematic resistor. Keep in mind that the Mode button switches from Farenheit to Celcius, then turns the display off, so you want to make sure that you haven't turned the display off with the Mode button (i.e. press it a few times).

=============================


Let me start out by describing my specific overhead display: Mine is in a '99 Explorer Limited with sunroof. The display provides digital compass bearings and temp. The housing also has the two 'spot' lights for driver and passenger.

If yours isn't exactly the same, but similar, I'll bet that the problem is identical to mine. This problem is related to solder failure, similar to the Mach radio display problem.

It's a resistor (or capacitor) that due to considerable heat, eventually loses its soldered contact at the board. You can confirm that this is the culprit by firmly pressing the button, thus putting slight pressure on the board housed inside the display housing. If the display fades in slightly then goes out - or stays on for a few hours/days, then goes back out, you have likely tweaked the board slightly and brought temporary contact to the problematic resistor.

The fix will take less than an hour if you're comfortable with soldering. If you've never soldered before, this may not be a good fix to learn on, because it is such a small component. I suggest finding an electronics guy to resolder the component. It's such a minor job that it shouldn't be much at all.

Anyway, what you'll need:

1. Torx T-10 and driver.
2. Soldering iron capable of small soldering repairs
3. Desoldering braid (I didn't really need it, but for the perfectionist...)
4. Good solder for small electronic work (silver based?) Radio Shack is a good resource.
5. Magnifying glass. Preferably the kind with the 'helping hands' alligator clips, in which you can position the glass over the work. You'll need two hands for the solder.

Here are the steps:
1. Remove the overhead console. This is done by pulling back the trim around the sunroof (if equipped) just enough to expose the black tab

This tab holds the rear portion of the console in place when tucked behind the sunroof trim (since I don't know the non-sunroof application, you're on your own here). Mine had some sticky adhesive that keeps the trim in place. The console should drop down slightly at this point.
2. Gently pull on both sides at about the middle of the console. It's held in by two pressure clips. It should pop out of the roof fixture without too much force.

3. Disconnect the two harness connectors (possibly only one if not equipped with a sunroof).

4. Working on a flat surface, remove the Torx screws (11 total for sunroof models). There's no need to remove the two rearmost screws on the black plastic bracket, or the two screws holding the harness plug receptacle (Connector 1 - sunroof models).

5. Lift the black plastic insert housing the light bezel and buttons from the console surround.

The spotlights and temp/compass display board come out as one unit, as they are attached with connectors.

6. Unplug the connector from the white display housing

7. Using a small screwdriver, pry around each of the four retainers that hold the white plastic cover in place over the black bottom housing.

8. After lifting the white plastic cover from the black bottom housing, you'll be able to remove the circuit board with the display glass. Take care not to bend the display glass.

9. Now that you have the board removed, you can identify the failed component. With a magnifying glass, carefully check the integrity and the solders at each end of the resistors labeled "510". This is where I found the failure. Yours is likely at one or both of these. This photo is a closeup. Note that these resistors are only about 1/4" end to end.

10. As you can see, I'm not a master solderer, but it worked. There was one resistor that was clearly broken from it's original solder, but the one next to it wasn't looking too stable, so I resoldered both. These little suckers get pretty hot when the display is operating normally, so make sure that your solder is good. This is where you take your time, and make sure that you have a stable solder at all resoldered points. If it's not such a good solder, it will fail before too long. You can test your repair by plugging in the connector to the board, then plugging that directly to the harness in the car. If you get a display, you've fixed the problem!

11. Reassemble in reverse order. One thing to note, is that the small spotlights' housing have two small tabs that fit into the black 'center' housing that has the buttons, light cover, etc. You'll need to fit the spotlights into the housing first and foremost before reassembling the console.

12. Good Luck!

Although this worked for me and all others who tried it and got back to me, I can't guarantee that it will work for you. So attempt this at your own risk. Please post to the thread to let others know whether this worked for you.

Forward

 

[latunes]

Overhead Console Fix

Thanks for the post. I was able to fix my overhead console with no problems. I did it while my husband did the oil change. Great post instructions.

 

[Freels13]

2001 overhead lighting problems

Hello, recently the foil wiring around my lights has burnt out and broken apart. Is there anywhere you can buy these to replace?? I didn't figure that there was still somewhere to purchase them. If not does anyone have a solution to rigging something up I would really like to have some overhead lights on my vehicle. And info will help me out thanks

 

[toypaseo]

Well, the repair my Dad did back in 2008, failed after 7½ years.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2033556&postcount=29

This time, I tried to do the repair myself. I am no soldering master by far. My Weller 140/100 watt soldering gun seemed to just want to pick up all the solder, plus it was melting the clear cover on the 510 resistors. I switched to my flea market $2.99 25W(?) Weller soldering iron pencil. Worked much better.

Was worried I killed the resistors since I melted the clear covers on both, but everything worked fine after connecting the harness. Lucked out...

 

[rkh58]

It's alive!!! First time I've soldered in about 30 years and never anything this small. Both 510 resisters needed to be re-soldered. Currently it's 62 degrees and I'm pointing SW.

 

[nardbuster]

my 510 is no longer there..

Forward

I read your thread. Thank you.
I only have one 510. The other has failed and fallenl out.
A visit to a auto recycler and find a replacement unit.
Since I read your post. I can now
Thank you for sharing...big smile

 

[jpicarello]

Overhead console repair

I just want to thank you very much for your wonderful explanation (with great photos!) of how to repair the overhead compass/temperature display. I just finished repairing mine a little while ago & its working great! I was a little leery about removing the console because, years ago, if you would just look at the headliner funny it would droop & you were never able to get it back in place again. But after seeing your photos I realized that wasn't going to happen. It's great having the display working again. Thanks again!

 

[Pi219]

I got the over head temp control...but

I got the over head temp. & direction but, I have windows and moon roof that won't open. I check the fuses everything looks well there. I need help? Please

 

[Pi219]

I got the over head temp control...but

I got the over head temp. & direction but, I have windows and moon roof that won't open. I check the fuses everything looks well there. I need help? Please

 

[Toucan]

I would re-check the console to make sure no "short" was created if you did any soldering.

 

[Stone27]

Great write up and it works

First off big thanks to Thallarsen, almost a decade later and still very useful info. Found this thread while trolling the forum (didn't notice my overhead didn't work) and did exactly as you said and its all good now. I did lose those torx screws but that might have been for the best anyway. Replaced them with phillips head screws of similar size (though thread was different). Bonus too cuz now I actually know how to solder and I may never use butt splicers or the the old electrical tape joining two wires method again.

 

[donalds]

Thanks

 

[BIGGEST RED]

I just got my abs (corroded worn wire on rear sensor harness) to work and my overdrive on/off to work(misplaced fuse). I went for a test drive only to see my compass/temp display not working. I followed the original post instructions and found a 510 missing. Good news.. I get to make another trip to the junk yard.