Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[Rick]

My only concern would be that the seam catches water and is full of seam sealer already. My ranger is cracking and leaky. It soaks the headliner sometimes. So if you drill in or near the seam/ gutter I would be concerned with messing up that seal and having water problems especially since the gutters and seams are already prone to leaks.

Maybe I'm thinking of something else. I am referring to the indented strips that run the length of the roof... Mine are painted, no seam sealer.

It's easy enough to seal the bolts and holes with urethane.

 

[Rick]

My only concern would be that the seam catches water and is full of seam sealer already. My ranger is cracking and leaky. It soaks the headliner sometimes. So if you drill in or near the seam/ gutter I would be concerned with messing up that seal and having water problems especially since the gutters and seams are already prone to leaks.

Maybe I'm thinking of something else. I am referring to the indented strips that run the length of the Explorer's roof... Mine are painted, no seam sealer.

It's easy enough to seal the bolts and holes with urethane.

 

[FR-425]

The spots need to be as high as they can be for better range, and the floods need to be lower because I want to be able to use them on night runs while behind someone.

Maybe you should stand on your head, then they will look perfect.

Assuming the position sir.. . .

 

[BKennedy]

Maybe I'm thinking of something else. I am referring to the indented strips that run the length of the Explorer's roof... Mine are painted, no seam sealer.

It's easy enough to seal the bolts and holes with urethane.

Those are them. The roof overlaps the sides and is sealed together. Since my Explorer is a garage queen, the seams are in great shape. The sealer is under the paint. I am not sure if they are welded then sealed, or just sealed.

Assuming the position sir.. . .

They look better??

Light Pics
Low beams only

Low beams and flood light

Spot light and high beams (high beam circuit triggers the relay)

Everything

The reflectors at the end of the street that the spot lighted up are about 1/2 mile away.

Front shot (phone camera had a little trouble focusing)

I think these will work just fine for what I wanted. The floods don't have a lot of range, but really light up the sides and directly in front. Should be good for following others on night runs. After the pics, I went home and angled the flood down to about 82* and kept the spot at 90*. I did drive into a parking lot and park about 100 yards away and facing a large building. When I hit the spot lights, it really lighted up the building. Before I could take a pic, a security guard drove up and asked me what I was doing. I apologized and left.

 

[Rick]

It has to be welded and sealed because mine are still intact with the well nuts still in there. I had a heavy rack too, but I never carried a spare on the roof.

 

[Stic-o]

I did drive into a parking lot and park about 100 yards away and facing a large building. When I hit the spot lights, it really lighted up the building. Before I could take a pic, a security guard drove up and asked me what I was doing. I apologized and left.

I'm landing my space craft. ..what's it you?

I didn't know about the sealer until I went to drill into the gutter. There was probably a 1/8" thickness of it there.

 

[BKennedy]

I'm landing my space craft. ..what's it you?

I didn't know about the sealer until I went to drill into the gutter. There was probably a 1/8" thickness of it there.

Sounds like a good place to run roof rack mounting.

I am thinking of contacting Mrs. Zukman to make me some light bar covers.

 

[BKennedy]

I just committed to fabbing a new roof rack because I just bought a curved 400 watt, 42" light bar. It should fit nicely inside the rack I have planned.

It is just too easy to purchase stuff these days. I bid on it while working a concert as a risk manager.

 

[Rick]

It is just too easy to purchase stuff these days.

Yes it is. Just ask our UPS driver I try to order as much as I can through Amazon Prime and let UPS do the driving

 

[BKennedy]

Today, myself and my friends Mike and Brian, went on a day long off road adventure in the Anza-Borrego State Park. Drove through Julian and met them in Shelter Valley. Ran Pinyon Mountain to Fish Creek to Sandstone Canyon, then up Diablo Dropoff to the Mud Caves, back to S-2, up Oraflame Canyon and back home. Put 200 miles on the Explorer, about 60 of it off road. Brian doesn't have a lot of experience off road, and he got a bunch today. Heart Attack Hill was a little much for him, but he handled it well.

Pics:

Airdown spot. I always seem to end up leading Jeeps around

The Explorer makes it through "The Squeeze"

I was a little worried because its at least three inches wider than the last time I went through.

Mike into the wall. I keep telling him to get rid of those wheel spacers.

Heart Attack Hill

For those of you who have not experienced that hill, its intimidating. Its very steep granite, covered with sand (ice rink) with big holes at the top. One of those, put it in low range and try not to use the brakes type hills.

Poser Shots

Taking the hard line

On the way up Oraflame Canyon, the bolt that holds Mike's tire carrier failed. It fell off on the trail. I think the only thing that kept it from bouncing over the side of the mountain was the CB antenna cable. He had fun fitting all that stuff in that little Jeep. He is going to bring it over after he orders a new trailer spindle type mount for a complete redo. Never liked the gas cans up above the tire. Going to move the tire out and fit the gas can mounts behind it.

All in all, it was a good day. No damage to the Explorer, Brian needs to re-seal his ARB (puking diff fluid up the ARB hose) and Mike scratched his fender flares. Think I have them both talked into coming out to TDS next month.

I need to pull those lights off the roof rack. I have never used them, and they look funny with the LED light bars on the bumper.

And...I finally got to use the LED lights. On the way home, some idiot coming towards me would not dim his lights. He came to a complete stop after I turned on the spot bar.

 

[Stic-o]

Heart Attack Hill

For those of you who have not experienced that hill, its intimidating. Its very steep granite, covered with sand (ice rink) with big holes at the top. One of those, put it in low range and try not to use the brakes type hills.

I wonder Why

 

[DB_1]

Looks like fun, I'd like to do that trail sometime. The CC run isnt gonna happen for me this weekend since some work came up...I'll just have to wait for TDS.

 

[BKennedy]

I wonder Why

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyIDNn73H4U">YouTube Link</a>

I've seen that video before. Wrong choice of slots and horrible spotting. The left (facing down) slot is the one I always take because its straight. I also don't listen to stupid people giving me direction. I know I'm not the only person watching that video who started yelling "turn left stupid" at the monitor. That driver, and spotter, were in way over there heads.

Its a great trail because it has nearly every type of terrain all on one trail. I haven't seen it that torn up before. Looks like rigs have been doing the trail backwards based upon the holes at the top of HA Hill and the base of the Squeeze. There must have been a lot if water through there too. Exposed a couple of new rock waterfall climbs. 33's and at least one locker is what I recommend to avoid body damage.

Dave, I ended up taking two jobs this weekend too.

 

[Stic-o]

I've seen that video before. Wrong choice of slots and horrible spotting. The left (facing down) slot is the one I always take because its straight. I also don't listen to stupid people giving me direction. I know I'm not the only person watching that video who started yelling "turn left stupid" at the monitor. That driver, and spotter, were in way over there heads.

You know it! I was screaming at video. ."no no. Stop what are you doing. ..."

They had no business on that trail. Rollbar saved her life though. Suspension seats would have helped. She probably would have walked away, minus the flop at the end. She did ride it out for most of it, although I think that was blind luck.

 

[BKennedy]

I bought the materials for the roof rack today. I decided to post the materials list to make it easier for anyone else wanting to make a EMT conduit roof rack. This might not be a complete list, but it is what I have come up with so far:

Roof Rack Materials List

6 – ¾” x 10’ EMT conduit
4 – ½” x 10' EMT conduit
6 – ¾” EMT conduit 90* sections (it was cheaper than a bender)
6 – ½” EMT conduit straps
¾” sleeve material, if necessary (only thing I could find locally was 5/8 x 16 gauge square tubing that would fit snugly inside the EMT to keep it straight for mock-up and welding)
12 – ¼ x 20 x ½” Button hex head screws, stainless
18 – ¼ x 20 x ¾” Button hex head screws, stainless
16 – ¼” Lock washers, stainless
10 – ¼ x 20 nylon lock nuts
16 – ¼” x 20 x ½” deep Well nuts
Few feet – ¾” wide, 1/8” flat bar stock
Few feet – 2" and 3” wide, 1/8” flat bar stock
3-4 cans spray paint, primer and paint
Aluminum diamond plate off old rack
Hi-Lift Jack mounts off old rack
Sealant for well nuts (was advised to silicone the well nuts in place when I installed solar panels on the roof of the RV)

The plan is to have the rack cover most of the roof with my 42" curved LED light bar nestled inside the front portion. It is going to be mostly like a standard roof rack, but as low profile as I can get it and still clear the roof, fit the light bar and Hi-Lift inside (hi-lift lying flat on the floor), with one exception; I am going to make the top bars curve down to terminate at the roof at the front of the rack so branches and such will slide over the rack and light bar. Light bar will be in between the top bars with a cross bar above them. It should protect the light bar, but will block a little side light. I never liked racks that are curved like a branch catcher at the front with lights sticking out exposed. Don't like the big light hoops either. The "floor" of the rack will be 1/2" EMT, spaced about 18" apart. I will also be adding the aluminum diamond plate sheet from the old rack to the rear portion to make a flat floor for approximately half of the rack. Side supports and roof mounts will all be 3/4" EMT with 3/4" wide, 1/8" flat bar for feet. Two well nuts at each mount. Planning on four mount points, one every two feet or so.

Should be starting tomorrow if all goes as planned. Removing the old rack and runners tonight. Might leave the old center runners alone since they are still solid and not visible.

 

[BKennedy]

Got the old rack and runners removed. Still need to decide if I want to drill the rivets and pull the center runners off.

You can see in this pic how the screws were pulling out of the sheet metal with the old rack. This is on the Hi-Lift side.

 

[BKennedy]

I drilled out the threaded sleeves in the roof. Around a couple of them, the sheet metal was cracking due to the stress of the old roof rack. I guess it was a good time to remove it. The side with the cracked sheet metal was the same side the hi-lift was on. It didn't help that I landed on it once. The other side of the roof is in much better shape.

Pic is after I pounded all the pulled up edges flat. I need to get some automotive plugs and silicone sealant to fix the roof. Its only visible with the roof rack removed and you have to be about 7 feet tall.

Top bar mocked-up.

Also got the top bar mostly welded up, and welded the rear portion of the bottom bar. Need to make 16 2-1/2" tall risers for the sides, drill 8, 1/2" holes in the inside of the bottom bar for the floor, and make the two front cross pieces before I do any more welding.

Anybody want to buy a Surco aluminum roof rack and six off road lights?

 

[BKennedy]

The last few days I have been working on the roof rack.

I turned this

Into this

The 42" LED light should just fit inside the rack at the front, while being protected by the down tubes. I need to add the lower bar and light mounts.
Got it almost all tacked together. I should be able to tack the feet on the roof mounts, then finish weld, add the Hi-Lift mounts, and aluminum floor, clean it up and paint tomorrow. I did not think it would take as long as it is, but there is a lot of repetition involved. I was surprised how well the pieces lined up. I did the bottom first, then tacked all the risers to the top while it was upside down, then tacked the top to the bottom. I think it looks pretty good. Its is very sturdy for conduit. A couple of full sized guys could stand on the sliders and hold on to the rack. It is about 2.5" shorter than the other rack, and 3' longer.

 

[Stic-o]

Looks really good!

 

[RockRanger]

Looking good Brian. What did you do to prep the conduit for welding?