Oil Pan Gasket

[SuperKirby]

Along with every other gasket in my Explorer, my oil pan gasket needs to be changed. I've gotten most of them done. I've put off the oil pan because it looks terrible to do. Unless...what's the possibility i can change it without any major disassembly. Far as i can tell if i pull the starter i should be able to get to all the bolts. Am i able to get the pan out with the engine still in? Can someone tell me protocol on this? Also any other preventative maintenance i should consider while I'm in there?

 

[Wolfie_85]

Big job. If I remember right, it involves getting the tranny out of the way. If you have the tools, patience, and know-how, along with a nice garage, go for it. I thought about doing that too. Got a quote from a mechanic after I looked at it and it was a grand. Ouch.

 

[2stroke]

Have you tried re-torquing the bolts? As stupid as it sounds, it might just get you by for a while. No way you are getting the pan out without major dis-assembly. It might be just as easy to pull the engine and do it. Still, I wonder if you could get it down just an inch if you could slip a new gasket on, or at least be able to get a good bead of RTV.

 

[SuperKirby]

Thanks. That's really not what I wanted to hear. I was hoping i could maybe loosen the engine and trans mounts and lift it a few inches to get the pan out.

 

[Anime]

An FYI to all that have their oil pans leaking. Mine got worse over the span of a year. The Ford guy I know looked at it, He
drained the pan
cleaned the surface around the bolts
loosened as many bolts as he could get too
Ran red rtv around the exposed bolt threads & around the pan sealing surface as he could get too
tightened the bolts back up snug
Let dry 48 hours
Filled with 10W50 & a oil sealer from STP
Bone dry for 2 weeks now
It's something relatively easy to try.
Long term? IDK...
My rear main is still seeping but that's another issue

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=425735

 

[natenkiki2004]

I can't imagine any of the 'easy' fixes curing it long-term. I ended up pulling the engine...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Pj_933njSg

 

[SuperKirby]

I may try the RTV as a temporary fix, but will probably still attempt to change the gasket before the end of the summer.
If one has never pulled an engine before, just how bad is it?

 

[the_don]

The last time i did one of these i unbolted the engine mounts and picked the engine up as far as it would go, it worked but still a PITA.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I may try the RTV as a temporary fix, but will probably still attempt to change the gasket before the end of the summer.
If one has never pulled an engine before, just how bad is it?

My first and only time was when I did it to mine. I had help from people who have done it before though.

You'll need a cement pad and an engine hoist. As far as tools, you'll want some LONG socket extensions and an impact gun. You can rattle off the exhaust y-pipe bolts from underneath that way. You can also get 6 of the 8 bellhousing bolts that way too. The top 2 bellhousing bolts you'll have to get with a ratchet/wrench with the upper intake removed. You'll have to remove the starter to gain access to the flywheel/flexplate nuts. From there, once you have all the accessories and wiring disconnected, you gotta jack up the trans while you lift the engine, enough to clear the motor mounts then you can slide the engine forward to disconnect from the bellhousing.

The absolute hardest part is getting the engine & trans mated back up without screwing up the alignment... meaning, the torque converter on an automatic trans. With myself and 2 other people working at it, I think it took us 3 tries over 2 days to get everything perfect and slid back in. The trans can only tip up and down but the engine can move in pretty much any direction. Getting the motor mounts and bellhousing lined up is a pain. I replaced my motor mounts and ended up having to grind the guide pins to a point to help get them into their brackets on the engine.


As far as the pan gasket itself, the only ones I found were rubber. I didn't go to Ford directly so I don't know if they have silicone or anything. I ended up using the Fel-Pro gasket. Once it was in, I ran a bead of Permatex Black around the outside of the gasket, as a backup in case the gasket itself failed. I'm hoping this combo will outlast the life of the engine. I did have an issue getting the old wedges out (I'm still not sure what they do) but heating up a small drillbit and melting it into the plastic made them come right out.


My advice would be to pull the water pump & timing cover as well. Those gaskets can be replaced with the engine in the vehicle but it's SOOOO much easier to do it when the engine is on a stand. Props to Anime for suggesting that. I also replaced the timing chain, sprockets & guides. I don't feel it was necessary but I don't have to worry about it now.


I have some pictures of the process, available here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/f7zxl41v0lah8bn/AAC9nPt9rBKFjC5mFZubhIxea?dl=0


It's very daunting at first but if you have a place to do it and knowledgeable friends and know when to walk away and regroup when you've been beaten... it's very doable

 

[2stroke]

4' extension makes getting those top bell housing bolts a breeze. I would take your exhaust off first from the exhaust manifolds. Take that brace out underneath that is under where the exhaust wraps around the tranny. Then you should be able to wiggle the whole piping around to fit the tranny out. I would plan plenty of time for the project. Its the tiny things that go wrong that get you. A broken pipe here, cracked hose there, and a few other things, and all of a sudden it took you a couple days longer than you expected.

 

[natenkiki2004]

When I said y-pipe bolts, I meant the ones connecting the y-pipe to the manifolds, sorry if I wasn't clear. Those are the only bolts I undid but they kind of made things difficult when putting the engine in. Personally, I don't know how it would have worked to get the top bell housing bolts from underneath unless you had someone on top to align the socket on the nut.

But yea, plan for more time than you need. I think mine ended up taking 10 days but I took 2 days off and had to give up a couple of times. If it's your first time, it's definitely not a weekend job.

 

[SuperKirby]

Wow, talk about discouraging. I mean,don't get me wrong, I definitely appreciate the input. But this is my only vehicle. I think about 3 days tops would be What i could spend on the project. I'm going to have to spend some time thinking and reassesing on this one. Or just keep putting in a quart of oil every couple weeks.

 

[Jason94sport]

Yeah....For me it's not a main vehicle so no way I'm spending that much time & headache with that thing. As I said I'll see how it holds up. I have the benefit of living in FL where it goes down to 40 a week out of the year & is 80 most of the year. No wild temp swings....

 

[natenkiki2004]

I understand completely. Personally, if it was my only vehicle, I wouldn't attempt it. Keep in mind though, I did several other things that weren't necessary to the repair of the oil pan gasket. You COULD do it in 3 days with help and all the tools necessary.

I would suggest some kind of sealant like stop leak or something like that but after seeing what my gasket was like, there's no magic fluid fix. About the only thing that might help would be to tighten down the oil pan bolts, try to get the aluminum to tighten against the block.

Even if you cleaned the outside of the pan and applied RTV to the seam, you can't get the rear of the pan, in fact, you'd probably be lucky to smear it on half of the pan.


Unfortunately, this is one of those simple yet costly or time consuming repairs that kill these vehicles. Lotta work to fix a little seal. But hey, if you do end up doing it, good on you for keeping it going and chances are, you won't have to worry about that for another 20 years

 

[4wheeltom]

Pull the motor mount nuts and anything that is in the way the pan. Then use a jack and a block of wood on the trans to lift the engine, don't lift it on the tranny pan.Pull the oil pan and let it rest on the cross member. clean the gasket surfaces and the carefully work the gasket around and over the oil pan. Reinstall the pan making sure that the gasket stays lined up. Its not very easy so take your time. The dealer ship I used to work at does it this way.
You could also use an engine hoist to lift the engine instead of the jack and block of wood

 

[SuperKirby]

Pull the motor mount nuts and anything that is in the way the pan. Then use a jack and a block of wood on the trans to lift the engine, don't lift it on the tranny pan.Pull the oil pan and let it rest on the cross member. clean the gasket surfaces and the carefully work the gasket around and over the oil pan. Reinstall the pan making sure that the gasket stays lined up. Its not very easy so take your time. The dealer ship I used to work at does it this way.
You could also use an engine hoist to lift the engine instead of the jack and block of wood

I think I'm going to try this. I hope I don't regret it. I figure worst case I'll pack it full of black RTV until I have a few days to do it the right way. I'll get the gasket ordered and see what happens the next time I have a couple days off. Hopefully I post back with some good news.

 

[4wheeltom]

Also pick up a set of those plastic alignment studs, they screw into the bolt holes and are smooth with a small tab on the that holds the gasket in place. Its like having a second pair of hands. If you have access to a vehicle hoist it will make it easier also

 

[SuperKirby]

The fel pro gasket set has a set of alignment studs so I'll use those. Also does anyone know what the little plastic half circle wedge looking things are that come with it? It doesn't look like any of the other gaskets come with them

 

[natenkiki2004]

You don't need alignment studs, there isn't a gasket. It's more of an o-ring that sits in a groove on the pan. The whole problem is that the o-ring shrinks and no longer touches the block. The only thing sealing is the aluminum pan smashed against the block by the bolts.

The wedge is just that... a wedge.

Take a look at this:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/1993 Oil Pan Install-Removal.pdf

For what it's worth, here's what the factory service supplement manual says:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/FSM/Oil Pan Removal.jpg

 

[SuperKirby]

One other probably dumb question, but using an impact wrench on the manifold y pipe doesn't pose a risk of cracking a manifold, does it?