Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[Stic-o]

I'm still rocking the Hi-lift but it's bolted to the cage behind the back seat. It's kind of a pain to get out but doable if needed. It's also out of the way and not rusting outside the truck.

I still use the factory bottle jack a lot though, just throw a 4x4 under it. But now you have me thinking ... I should build a base for it to bolt on to, and can also go back over the jack and act as a case.:scratch:

 

[Rick]

I carry both a Hi Lift and a bottle jack. I don't have any of those nifty extensions though. I'm going to have to remedy that

 

[BKennedy]

Today, I started working on the headlight relay mod to see if it helps with the yellow headlights.

 

[BKennedy]

Completed headlight relay mod. Lights look "cleaner" but still yellow compared to the LED's. Switch should last longer this way.

 

[Stic-o]

You need to go to a 6000k bulb to match the LED lights.

 

[5spdman]

Or to an LED bulb. Saw a link on here to some a few weeks back...don't have the money at the moment, and can't remember the link or where I found it, but I'm very tempted to have my best friend (who is an LED dealer) find me some...

If I find anything, I'll be sure and share the wealth!

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, they are pricey, but man, wouldn't they be awesome?

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat...rer--high+++low+beam+headlamp/20-508--192271/

 

[BKennedy]

You need to go to a 6000k bulb to match the LED lights.

I have Sylvania bulbs in there now and they look perfect. Not sure of the output.
Edit: All the Sylvania 9007 bulbs are 1000k lumens.

Or to an LED bulb. Saw a link on here to some a few weeks back...don't have the money at the moment, and can't remember the link or where I found it, but I'm very tempted to have my best friend (who is an LED dealer) find me some...

If I find anything, I'll be sure and share the wealth!

Let us know. I don't really want to spend any more money on lights right now either. I had all the materials to do this job and it did help a little. Also allowed me to run the head lights off the auxiliary battery.

Yeah, they are pricey, but man, wouldn't they be awesome?

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat...rer--high+++low+beam+headlamp/20-508--192271/

Double the price for two SilverStar Ultra's. I though the Ultra's were too expensive when I was parts shopping last week. I won't replace the bulbs until one burns out.

 

[Stic-o]

I have Sylvania bulbs in there now

The 6000k is the color of the light. Most LED light bars are a 6000k. Your factory lights are around 3000k or less and have the yellow tint to them vs. 6500k would have a more blue tint. Higher still they turn purple. Silverstars are about 4500k

 

[5spdman]

Yeah, they are pricey, but man, wouldn't they be awesome?

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat...rer--high+++low+beam+headlamp/20-508--192271/

Lucky me that my best friend's business is LED's...got my 20" TuffStuff LED bar from him for only $120 ($370 from TuffStuff online) and he's got a 40" waiting for me that only ran me $240...pretty sure I can get a deal worked out on some headlight bulbs!

 

[BKennedy]

Maybe your friend should contact [MENTION=71]Rick[/MENTION] and become a vendor here.

 

[5spdman]

Maybe your friend should contact [MENTION=71]Rick[/MENTION] and become a vendor here.

I'm getting the "best friend discount" and he's more aimed at selling LEDs for use on farm equipment, but that is an idea. I'll get a hold of him and see what he thinks, and get a hold of Rick once I hear from him.

 

[BKennedy]

I'm getting the "best friend discount" and he's more aimed at selling LEDs for use on farm equipment, but that is an idea. I'll get a hold of him and see what he thinks, and get a hold of Rick once I hear from him.

Maybe he would do us a group purchase for the LED headlights?? He could make some money and we could get a deal, you know we love deals...

Something I noticed when I was driving the Explorer around town yesterday was the turn signals and hazard lights blink about 25% faster with the headlight relay mod. Its not too fast that its unacceptable and everything else light related works normally (flash to pass, high beam switch, park and head lights). I think that means there was a constant draw through the turn signal switch circuit for the high beam / flash to pass mode. I almost wired it up so the low beams were on in "run" for a daytime running light mod, but I figure if they can't see my Explorer coming, they must be legally blind.

 

[gmanpaint]

More than likely, the turn signal is working as it was when New.

Heat & age on all that stock wiring, and connections at the pwdb have got weak after all these years.

 

[BKennedy]

Brian1 posted a pic of a spark plug off his Explorer that the ceramic came apart and it made me paranoid. Got to thinking how long its been since I changed the plugs. Only about 15000 miles, but five years worth of time. Scored these off rockauto.com closeout:
MOTORCRAFT Part # AWSF42EE Double Platinum Plus
Suppressor Spark Plug, $2.21 each (now only one left).
Am going to change the injector o rings at the same time. Bought a set after Khris had a rough idle that turned out to be a bad o ring.

And, I think I finally got the shocks I wanted for the rear of the Silverado. Gabriel pro-guards keep going up on rockauto every few weeks, for a few hours, then drop off when they sell out. I got an email notification that they were back in stock and ordered a set. Hope I got them this time, as they are a decent shock and $18.87 each.

 

[sirhk100]

Am going to change the injector o rings at the same time. Bought a set after Khris had a rough idle that turned out to be a bad o ring.

Which I likely would've never found had it not been for Ford Diagnostics! Never once crossed my mind that could be an issue... Piece of mind doesn't hurt, that's for sure!

 

[BKennedy]

Which I likely would've never found had it not been for Ford Diagnostics! Never once crossed my mind that could be an issue... Piece of mind doesn't hurt, that's for sure!

Got all 12 o rings at rock auto for $6.

 

[sirhk100]

Stupid Ford Dealer!!! LOL I needed mine like that day and well, I paid for it cause of it! I don't remember how much it was but I told them my opinion for sure when they told me the cost. And that was at my companies discounted rate, not even retail. LOL

 

[BKennedy]

Ford parts have always been stupid expensive. Got a better deal at the Volvo dealership. Best deal I get is the employee pricing at the Chevrolet dealer my brother works for. The plugs for the Silverado were cheaper there than Autozone. Got a set of wipers for $9.

 

[Stic-o]

Did you ever get rid of your old rack and lights?