Completed Project - Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread | Page 43 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Completed Project Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those.

Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project:
1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them.
1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes.
Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps.
1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit.

Project Parts Section:
-37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's
-Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs.
-Detroit Locker for the 8.8
-Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44
-Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear.
-Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc.
-All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to.
-Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased.
-New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted.
-1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's.
-Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*.
-Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends.
-GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm.
-Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes)
-Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front.
-Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me.
-Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed.
-All Grade 8 hardware will be used.
-All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses.

I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do.


First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly.
1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature.

P1020388.JPG

P1020410.JPG

P1020476.JPG

P1020488.JPG


And here is some video links! :) There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!

 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.








Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





All I can say is I'm sorry, and I wish I could think of the solution. I'm stumped. If it is the output shaft, is it cheaper to get a whole new case? If so, would be a good time to change to a NP231 or 241. I have the 231 and really like the gearing and the Teraflex 2 low conversion. I got mine with a AA slip yoke eliminator already installed for $300. The NP 241 has a 4:1 low range. The junk yards are full of them, and there is a lot of aftermarket stuff.

I have the 4R70W trans so it would be a bit extra work for either of those cases I think from the little I looked on them, not positive though.

might be a long shot, but if your tranny mount has that much play in it maybe it has something to do with it. Might be exaggerating the normal function of the u-joint

It really isn't weak I would have to show you a picture to see how tight the 4406 is in there with a Double Cardon and its just a fitment issue not really a weak mount issue. But however I have corrected that so shouldn't be an issue moving forward.

wow just killed some time this evening reading through this thread. what a great write up and documentation of this build!! seriously dude you really own the phrase built not bought. probably one of the nicest EXs ive seen on here. inspired me to start working on building up my ex again. keep on building and wheelin man!!!

Thanks I appreciate it! Can't wait to get out wheeling again. Been far overdue.

Is your new shaft a double cardon also? I swear my old vibration was just the fact of a double cardon joint on the 4406 slip yoke. A D/C joint has a much greater rotating mass and any play in the slip could cause a vibration. All slip yokes have some play, its the nature of the beast.

Yes it is a Double Cardon. In theory it should be the better and smoother option. I do agree that the weight would exaggerate any issue and if the mass would be less would be better as well since it is a very fast rotating weight. Ford did run several versions with the Double Cardon on the 4406 and didn't have an issue. I also ran it for 7,000 miles and never once had an issue until the issue lol. Been a crazy few weeks so Explorer has just been left alone since its fully together and it can be moved. I am really wanting to get it out and stretch its legs. Wish I had a better drive to get it repaired but don't look forward to further headache chasing things down.

I did go to several junkyards 2 weekends ago looking for cases that I can swap over so its 100% a different case to eliminate all possibilities. But each manual shift case I found had been moved by a forklift and the fork had lifted the trucks by the rear drive line and they where badly bent so if that's a reason for my issue I didn't want to chance it so didn't end up pulling any of the cases, wasn't interested in swapping possible issues for the same issues.

May go look again this weekend if I have some time.
 












So, bent shaft, had rebuilt, vibrates, rebuilt again, vibrates, rebuilt again, vibrates, on and on.

Did not vibrate before the damage. All other possibilities eliminated.

And still I have to say it's the drive shaft. I hope you have another choice for a shop near by.
 






In disagree. If tom woods sent you one that's money. Nothing but good things heard and experienced from them everytime.

On the chomos for the fw 8.8, they are available I have seen them on full size broncs. I almost bought an fa bronco axle with a set of mosers in it. I bet if you call yukon or another manufacterer they would have them.
 






So, bent shaft, had rebuilt, vibrates, rebuilt again, vibrates, rebuilt again, vibrates, on and on.

Did not vibrate before the damage. All other possibilities eliminated.

And still I have to say it's the drive shaft. I hope you have another choice for a shop near by.

I have had the first drive shaft redone 3 times and then ordered the 100% new Tom Woods shaft and the vibration didn't change at all so between all the changes including a 100% new shaft I hope that is eliminated.

In disagree. If tom woods sent you one that's money. Nothing but good things heard and experienced from them everytime.

On the chomos for the fw 8.8, they are available I have seen them on full size broncs. I almost bought an fa bronco axle with a set of mosers in it. I bet if you call yukon or another manufacterer they would have them.

Maybe I will have to look further for full width 8.8 shaft options when I get this issue figured out.


Think I have no choice but to do a new transfer case for the truck. I pulled the rear drive line and ran it and cant see the rear transfer case output shaft bent visually so really I am completely stumped. No idea, now I need to go to bigger changes I guess (as if new gear sets, rebuilt detroit, new shaft, went through case isn't enough) So will swap out the whole case and go from there. If it is still there I will follow the path of [MENTION=12558]boominXplorer[/MENTION] and go to a standard rear drive line and see if that's an issue. for that I REALLY wish I would have kept the Expedition rear shaft I had in it before the SAS as I could swap that in and change rear pinion angle and see if that's an issue. I no longer have that shaft as I figured I wouldn't need one.

:(
 






I would think with the speeds your output shaft, driveshaft and pinion are spinning, even just the slightest bend that you can't visibly see would still be felt. I know my local driveline shop balances their driveshafts at 4000 rpm. Seems your shaft is not the issue though with all the replacements you've done of it. Very slightly tweaked output shaft or pinion though maybe?
 






I installed a new gear set and there was no change so it isn't the pinion shaft. Only thing left is the transfer case.
 






Time for an atlas II.
 






Yup, there it is... Atlas 2 is your only solution! LOL
 






Just for shins and giggles have the Tom Woods shaft checked for balance.

My money (your money) is still on the shaft.. .. ..
 






Crack open the T-case and check all your bearings and shift forks. Had a oil pump seize up in my old F150 that caused the forks to wear causing a nasty vibration. Fixing something worn out in the case would be cheaper than replacing
 






Crack open the T-case and check all your bearings and shift forks. Had a oil pump seize up in my old F150 that caused the forks to wear causing a nasty vibration. Fixing something worn out in the case would be cheaper than replacing


He already did.
 






Crack open the T-case and check all your bearings and shift forks. Had a oil pump seize up in my old F150 that caused the forks to wear causing a nasty vibration. Fixing something worn out in the case would be cheaper than replacing

Already did and didn't find anything that was a noticeable concern at all. :( Only thing I can think of is if something is bent somewhere and isn't visibly obvious.

Just for shins and giggles have the Tom Woods shaft checked for balance.

My money (your money) is still on the shaft.. .. ..

I have 2 shafts now and both are the same can't imagine that 2 shafts feel the exact same. The one has been gone through 3 times and for the most part everything is still the same.

Time for an atlas II.
Yup, there it is... Atlas 2 is your only solution! LOL

I wish that I could but still having the same issue mentally. If I could 100% guarantee that it would fix the issue I'd buy one tonight. The other issues with that is both shafts would need to be redone again (Grrr just bought new one) and would need to fab a place for the shifters. Wish I knew what it was then I could better spend money on wants vs needs. I would like to spend that $ on suspension parts not a T-Case since I have no complaints on the 4406 until possibly this issue.


I have been to the junkyards several times with no luck. I have found a bunch of manual shift cases but almost every single one has been lifted by the drive line when they are moving the trucks around the lots apparently so if that is a reason for my issue then I surly am not going to swap one out for the same issue. :( I will ask through my work tomorrow to see if LKQ has a 97-03 manual shift case that has lower miles etc on it and may buy it that way. A bit more money but don't have to pull it myself and I can return it if the issue is not fixed. This time (when I find one) when I swap cases I am not going to install the front shaft any of the skid plates etc etc until I find the issue. Tired of pulling it all fully apart every time.

Blah, I have a Moab trip planned for several days in July so would like to find the issue sooner than later. lol, only been since FEB I think since this all started.
 






Totally forgot you already went through the case. Could your pinion flange be bent, not really sure if that would cause a vibration or not but I'm running out of ideas at this point. And it seems to be the only thing you haven't replaced.
 






Replaced pinion flange when I put the fresh gears in. So that's been replaced to. :( It looks very sad sitting in the garage, only been out once since Feb.
 






I bought some 6 ton jack stands, they just showed up today. Now I can safely run the truck in my garage and try to narrow it down further. :( I have Moab in a few weeks and not confident that I will have a truck to run, but o well there is more to do in Moab than wheel. I want to though.
 












Very unbearable. Feels like it would really fail when it does. If I where to though I will put in the original drive shaft and use that one to fail. Then run the Tom Woods shaft after whatever is replaced. Hard to want to drive it until it fails, want it fixed, but don't want other issues or being left on the road somewhere.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Back
Top