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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
on some models there is a reprogram for the Intelligent key module to help with this issue, but without vin ran through Oasis for tsb's or SSMs it would be hard to say if yours would be one that can be or needed to be reprogramed. battery in remote could be weak. Would have to take it in to the dealership to really address the issue.
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About a month ago I had my '11 Explorer Limited at my local dealer to have the "Shift To Park" issue addressed, they also updated the Navigation system at the same time. Since then when I go to start the vehicle after it's been sitting for a few hours (like overnite) it'll show "No Key Detected" and won't start until I first hit another button on the key fob, such as the door lock button, then it'll start. This only happens if it has been not running for several hours. If it has been a shorter period of time (like less than overnite) and I go to start it, it'll fire right up without first having to hit another button on the key fob. What's up? There's 68K on the odometer and I have the Premium ESP.
The issue occurs with both fobs. Having only owned this Explorer since 3/28/15 I haven't yet changed the battery nor have I any knowledge if the previous owner changed it or not. It wouldn't seem likely to be a battery issue if it happens with both fobs, would it?
The issue occurs with both fobs. Having only owned this Explorer since 3/28/15 I haven't yet changed the battery nor have I any knowledge if the previous owner changed it or not. It wouldn't seem likely to be a battery issue if it happens with both fobs, would it?
My wife just called me, and told me she is having the "key not detected" issue, right in the 110F blistering sun with her 4 friends. I asked her to put the key in the holder in the console in between the seats, and the car started....
We had the same problem on the day we picked up the car new. I had changed the key fob battery proactively already, so for sure its not a battery issue.
With all the issues I have faced with our '15, 55K$ Explorer, I feel less and less happy with our car. I am not going to bother now putting pressure on the dealer for a fix... they will not fix it, just tell they reset the system... but will keep the car for 3 days in the shop for doing that! :-(
My wife just called me, and told me she is having the "key not detected" issue, right in the 110F blistering sun with her 4 friends. I asked her to put the key in the holder in the console in between the seats, and the car started....
We had the same problem on the day we picked up the car new. I had changed the key fob battery proactively already, so for sure its not a battery issue.
With all the issues I have faced with our '15, 55K$ Explorer, I feel less and less happy with our car. I am not going to bother now putting pressure on the dealer for a fix... they will not fix it, just tell they reset the system... but will keep the car for 3 days in the shop for doing that! :-(
I agree with you edino about not being happy! We have a 13 explorer limited with 69,000 miles. "out of warranty" Its to the point that now about 2/3rds of the time the car won't detect the key until I dig it out of my pocket and press the lock button. The car seems to then snap back to normal and recognize the key. The car also doesn't unlock when you grab the door handle most times any more. Again, I press the unlock button and it then works fine. I've replaced the batteries with no change. I hope Ford gets this figured out! It looks like We'll be trading soon and I think I'll pass on all the "high end" options.
I agree with you edino about not being happy! We have a 13 explorer limited with 69,000 miles. "out of warranty" Its to the point that now about 2/3rds of the time the car won't detect the key until I dig it out of my pocket and press the lock button. The car seems to then snap back to normal and recognize the key. The car also doesn't unlock when you grab the door handle most times any more. Again, I press the unlock button and it then works fine. I've replaced the batteries with no change. I hope Ford gets this figured out! It looks like We'll be trading soon and I think I'll pass on all the "high end" options.
I feel sorry for people buying Sports and Limiteds without extended warranties. These cars are money pits after 2 or 3 years and the warranties will pay for themselves in no time! I plan on keeping mine till 7 years/200km and selling it or trading it in the day the warranty runs out
I agree with you edino about not being happy! We have a 13 explorer limited with 69,000 miles. "out of warranty" Its to the point that now about 2/3rds of the time the car won't detect the key until I dig it out of my pocket and press the lock button. The car seems to then snap back to normal and recognize the key. The car also doesn't unlock when you grab the door handle most times any more. Again, I press the unlock button and it then works fine. I've replaced the batteries with no change. I hope Ford gets this figured out! It looks like We'll be trading soon and I think I'll pass on all the "high end" options.
Welcome to the Forum. :wavey:
Not sure why a few of the Explorers have this happen. Please add the 'model' of your Ex to your profile so it always shows in the margin. Thanks.
Our Explorer went in for her first service yesterday, oil and air-filter change. We mentioned that on 2 occasions the key was not detected while entering the cabin after it was remote started. Their response was that this is due to a software issue, and is faced by many customers. The work-around is that when it happens, is to lock the car via the remote and unlock it again; the key should be detected immediately. Changing hardware will not make any difference. They have raised this issue to Ford, without receiving a fix until now. At least we know the work around now, will try it next time it happens. My dealer is really making the difference, but I really feel Ford itself should do much better.
Well, it appears that both batteries became weak simultaneously. I replaced the old batteries with new in both key fobs and the vehicle now starts right up with either fob.
I would probably guess that within 2 years the key fob battery on these new "keyless entry" fobs would be dead or almost dead - they have to transmit quite a bit, quite often.
I noticed the book for my 2016 says to replace them every year for optimal performance
I've had this issue for about 6 months. Took it to the dealer, paid $100 to be told they dont know what the issue is. Took it back in recently (turned out to be the PTU issue, unrelated) and they said I need to replace the push button module, $454!!!
I've had this issue for about 6 months. Took it to the dealer, paid $100 to be told they dont know what the issue is. Took it back in recently (turned out to be the PTU issue, unrelated) and they said I need to replace the push button module, $454!!!
Like i said, things wear out, such it is. Some components seem to last forever, others not so much. I am sure each one of our vehicles have or will have something go at one time or another.
Our Explorer went in for her first service yesterday, oil and air-filter change. We mentioned that on 2 occasions the key was not detected while entering the cabin after it was remote started. Their response was that this is due to a software issue, and is faced by many customers. The work-around is that when it happens, is to lock the car via the remote and unlock it again; the key should be detected immediately. Changing hardware will not make any difference. They have raised this issue to Ford, without receiving a fix until now. At least we know the work around now, will try it next time it happens. My dealer is really making the difference, but I really feel Ford itself should do much better.
This is a good data point. Probably a software patch - but like all computers they need a good reboot from time to time.
the using the keyfob to unlock is a hard code way to trigger the security system to notice the key. There is a larger burst of signal sent when it's being actively used. (if you can imagine in your pocket and using the button on the handle the key is sending out say 100 mW of RF and a short code to the computer - but when you press a button it sends 400mW of RF and a multiple pass longer code to the computer).
So far our 2016 hasn't hiccuped once on the key but I wonder now if part of that is because every time I drive it I remote start it.
I've had this issue for about 6 months. Took it to the dealer, paid $100 to be told they dont know what the issue is. Took it back in recently (turned out to be the PTU issue, unrelated) and they said I need to replace the push button module, $454!!!
Welcome to the Forum.:wavey:
Do you get the same message with both fobs? Also, have you changed the batteries since you got them?
Peter
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Yes I have. I got the dealership to replicate the problem after having my car with them for about a week. They think the only fix is the key module replacement for aver $500. Seems like if the car cant start it should be under my powertrain warranty.
Again love my car just want to make sure I can start it when I needed.
