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Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Turbo compressor map.gif
Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo.

I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place.

Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are.

Here's the specs:
t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me.

Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

My real issue is routing the air filter and compressed air up to the engine bay.
The frame rails will be the the way. I saw one guy notched out his frame for the plumbing and re-enforced the frame by welding metal around the plumbing line (3 inch or 4 inch hole). I'm concerned about running the two pipes and think this will be the biggest challenge. I really don't want that air filter under the truck.
See what this guy did on his ranger?


As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

Fuel pump, injectors, sct go without saying. I'll be having James put together a care package for me along with the Pro-M.
Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
Bosch uscar (EV6) 60lb injectors part # 108191

I'll recycle my boost gauge and wide band o2 from my supercharged 4.0 ohv.

I'll be using stainless steel for everything under the truck as rust always seems to be an issue.

Also. intercooling. I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler. This could change, but intercooling of some form is a must.

My eye's are watering at what this is going to cost.

I see 02Limited turbo'd his, but he must have had quite a few issues and fell off the forum.

Not much info on guys completing something like this to be found. All input appreciated.

This will be a long process.
 



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HA! me not get dirty. like im going to just help you put the motor in and walk away. you funny guy! you and i both know we are going to bust ass to see if we can turn the key by the end of tomorrow.
 



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that's a bit aggressive.
The motor is still in pieces.

I won't be starting on it till around 11 tomorrow either. Other duties call first.
I do see an easy day on sunday before startup though.
 






Motors in, front diff is in. Motor sounds great.
The radiator seems to have been a casualty though. The drivers side end tank is leaking.

The motor fraught going back in yesterday. It did finally seat to the trans though.

Tim was kind enough to come back today which was a surprise. I'd have thought he'd rather be anywhere than here doing the same thing over and over. On second thought, I know he's have rather been pretty much anywhere else.

I'll hunt down a rad tomorrow, and then you know I'll be babying the truck.
 






Radiator

With all the cooling system problems I have had on both my trucks, I was wondering if there was an all aluminum radiator that would work for our Explorers. it would be nice to have welded side tanks that could hold up to more than the plastic does.

Glad to hear it is up and running again!
 






I'm sorry to read that you had more trouble, but good that it's back together again.

My 347 still on a stand was built very similar to yours. It's a 9.65:1 347 by Woody, custom cam, designed for a mild turbo boost. So my cam ought to be very similar to yours. I hope you find that the CPS code was causing the detonation issues.

For the IC pump, you might use both the TPS signal, and the IC coolant temperature. I'd want the pump to run any time the temps got much above say the 100-120 range. The PWM controllers could work well for that I think.
 






So, the bad news doesn't end.

Coolant issues, coolant over flow tank over filling......... bubbles in overflow tank.

Something is still broken.

This is very bad.
 






Oh no, tell me you are joking.
 






:(

nope.
I'm out of money, time, and energy.

Tim has a spare 302 that's almost complete. It will be going in for the winter.

I have to have a bad head. I'll take the winter to save for aluminum heads and try again in spring.

This weekend is reserved for rest and beer. The only time I'm going to move from the fetal position is for a sip of beer, or another beer.
 












hes getting evils 302 motor, and can have it as long as needed. i know i would have set fire to it and walked long ago.
 






Maybe it is just a defective head gasket?
Also glad you have a back up plan, if you wait to put it back together next year you will have more patience, money, time, and sunlight.
 






Holy cow man. I feel terrible for you ( & Tim) after all that effort.

Pretty sure I would send the complete engine to a shop that can run it on a stand hooked up to a dyno. When they hammer out the issues, and get it tuned, then put it back in the rig. Let them have it for the winter, drop it back in come spring.

Hang in there!
 






Ouch, and do take a break, find something else to spend time on etc. I hate to hear that again.
 






A much needed break.

I really think I need to break down and go with some AFR 185's.
the 3/4" deck thickness will really help.

That and, always fighting the detonation, maybe the AFR's will be more detonation resistant.

Tim's 302 was trouble free for him, and is pretty much all together. I won't have to replace head gaskets, water pump gaskets, ar anything like that. The only concern is a egr tube that fits factory intake.

I'd prefer to keep the trickflow intake with the 347 so as it goes back together (hopefully with aluminium heads) I can check fitment issues along the way.

Lets see what my new 247 v2 ends up like over the winter.

I do like the idea of having the motor run on a stand before installing it, I'm just not sure who I trust (Not that I have been having any success on my own, anyway)
 






Compare pricing for TFS heads over AFR. Given the same sizing and cfm rates, the TW and high ports always beat AFR's. Pricing used to be virtually identical, it was in the $1400 range when I got my Canfields(a high port version). What I saw recently was $1999 for the hottest popular TFS head lately. That's nuts for a Windsor head, so I hope that was a miss print or a bad seller over pricing them. I think about $1500 is a reasonable limit to pay for a complete set of W heads, and over that an aftermarket Cleveland head is worth the trouble.

Go slow, take your time. See if you can find a used set of TFS heads that flow in the 270cfm or more. You need that level or better.
 












I had (have) the factory gt40p iron heads ported with oversized valves.

Whatever head I end up with, I want it to fit my current headers. This creates a possible issue on its own.

I think Tim has AFR's, and his torquemonsters fit almost perfectly.

I really wanted to make gt40p's work, but I think I'm best off to look at a change.
 






nope. trick flow specialties. and i had to grind a spot on the drivers side of the head where the two pipes join the headers because they forced the header out on a angle
 






oops....
I guess I better start looking at the trickflows.
I really don't want to run in to a spark plug/header issue.
 



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The "P" heads are the most odd header type, those have the exact same stock port and bolt pattern, but the plugs are angled differently.

Everything else but some higher end heads with raised ports should also have the same "normal" port/pattern. So the P headers are the odd type, and some here have mentioned TM headers and others usable on both stock version heads.

The TFS high ports all will have raised ports, as well as the two copies of them, the Canfields and Ford Z304's.

So the typical TFS TW or AFR head that are popular should take the normal GT40 headers. The P headers are a test each case deal.
 






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