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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Generally I replace my battery BEFORE it fails, usually between 3 & 4 years, depending on the time of year. If it's 3 years old and heading into winter, I'll replace it. If it's Spring or Summer, I might push 4 years. But I'll never go longer than 4 in any case. Just like I won't run tires below 4/32". I usually replace them around 5/32".
Not a bad idea, but like I posted above, I just got 6 years out of an AC Delco in my Saab. I replaced it two weeks ago when I noticed a little trouble turning over to start, so it did not fail and leave me stranded and I saved a bit not replacing it three years ago.
Now tires and brakes - those I don't skimp on with wear for safety reasons.
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Not a bad idea, but like I posted above, I just got 6 years out of an AC Delco in my Saab. I replaced it two weeks ago when I noticed a little trouble turning over to start, so it did not fail and leave me stranded and I saved a bit not replacing it three years ago.
This is my strategy as well. If it's not exhibiting any symptoms of failure, I keep it. It's not that hard to tell if a battery is in trouble anyways, especially on start ups. With a little longer crank or multiple attempts, you can bet your battery needs some sort of attention.
The problem with using a regular interval in changing batteries is that batteries can go bad at any time. I've had 6 month old batteries conk out on me in the past. I've also gone entire vehicle ownerships without changing the battery (7-8 years or so). You just never know.
This is exactly why I never replace both batteries on my boat at the same time. I always have one "older" battery and one "newer" battery. There is no way I'm going out in open water without at least one "tried and tested" dependable (the "older" one) battery.
This is my strategy as well. If it's not exhibiting any symptoms of failure, I keep it. It's not that hard to tell if a battery is in trouble anyways, especially on start ups. With a little longer crank or multiple attempts, you can bet your battery needs some sort of attention.
The problem with using a regular interval in changing batteries is that batteries can go bad at any time. I've had 6 month old batteries conk out on me in the past. I've also gone entire vehicle ownerships without changing the battery (7-8 years or so). You just never know.
This is exactly why I never replace both batteries on my boat at the same time. I always have one "older" battery and one "newer" battery. There is no way I'm going out in open water without at least one "tried and tested" dependable (the "older" one) battery.
It's kind of like tires. When you buy "new" tires or a battery, who knows how many years they could have been on the shelf. I have had tires start to dry rot after three years. Unless it is bad rubber from manufacturing, those tires were sitting a long time before sold. Hit or miss in my experience. Some tire/batteries last quite long time. Others go in short order.
Batteries should have dates on them. I believe they signify the date that the battery was shipped to the retailer. Not that the dates guarantee anything but I try to buy a battery that is dated for no longer than about a month or two out. If no date than ya...you never know how long it's just been sitting on the shelf.
Batteries should have dates on them. I believe they signify the date that the battery was shipped to the retailer. Not that the dates guarantee anything but I try to buy a battery that is dated for no longer than about a month or two out. If no date than ya...you never know how long it's just been sitting on the shelf.
I still have the original in my 98 Ford Explorer. The voltmeter says it's a little on the low side, but would prolly help it run better with a new battery, RIGHT?
I still have the original in my 98 Ford Explorer. The voltmeter says it's a little on the low side, but would prolly help it run better with a new battery, RIGHT?
I think the demands on a '98 model battery would not be as great as those batteries found in the 5th generation Explorer. With all the added electronic features in the new Ex, there are many memory circuits that must be powered 24/7.
I think the demands on a '98 model battery would not be as great as those batteries found in the 5th generation Explorer. With all the added electronic features in the new Ex, there are many memory circuits that must be powered 24/7.
Makes sense. There is a lot of demand for power in newer vehicles. But isn't that amazing the battery still is factory and 17 years old!!! Also, when I replaced the spark plugs, they still had the metal factory tubing over the original spark plugs. Wires were also still factory until I changed me about a year ago. I've noticed no maintenance of such was not done and everything is pretty much still factory. Is that unheard of? A battery lasting for 17 years??
My 2013 XLT has the original battery, dealer tested it 1st time it failed to start shortly after delivery on 4/12/2012, claimed batt was good, suggested that my GPS drained it - not likely in my opinion. This is a Minnesota vehicle that is usually left outside. It has been dead several time since, no logic to when, driven on a daily basis. I believe there is something in the electronics that is not properly shutting down. Batt recharges quickly, starts (cranks) fast and will not give any problem for months. Now that I'm retired I plan to do some checking of continuous drain or possibly catch an intermittent drain. I don't plan to replace batt until I isolate problem or it completely fails. Currently carrying a jumper pack for piece of mind. Will post any findings.
My 2013 XLT has the original battery, dealer tested it 1st time it failed to start shortly after delivery on 4/12/2012, claimed batt was good, suggested that my GPS drained it - not likely in my opinion. This is a Minnesota vehicle that is usually left outside. It has been dead several time since, no logic to when, driven on a daily basis. I believe there is something in the electronics that is not properly shutting down. Batt recharges quickly, starts (cranks) fast and will not give any problem for months. Now that I'm retired I plan to do some checking of continuous drain or possibly catch an intermittent drain. I don't plan to replace batt until I isolate problem or it completely fails. Currently carrying a jumper pack for piece of mind. Will post any findings.
Have you done any mods to the vehicle like adding a trailer hitch? I have a friend who had a hitch installed and they messed up the wiring which drained two batteries befor they found it.
Automotive batteries begin reaching the end of their reliable lifespan between 3 and 5 years, and by 6 years it's very good luck if they're still usable.
I remember the old Woody Allen movie Sleeper, where he awakens after 300 years and finds a Volkswagen Beetle that started right up. This fictional event outlasted the average battery life by a factor of 60.
Automotive batteries are designed to deliver a lot of amperage in short bursts, and to not be depleted more than 15%, ever. Deep cycle batteries found in sailboats and RV's have more sturdy plates, and more room at the bottom of the battery to collect sulfation sediments without shorting out. And this is possible because deep cycle batteries don't have to supply super heavy "vehicle starting" loads; they're expected to encounter low to moderate loads over long periods of time. And weight is less of a factor as well. Plus deep cycle batteries aren't usually subjected to engine-compartment levels of heat. Deep cycle batteries can tolerate being run down to a 50% charge state hundreds of times.
But automotive batteries have to be relatively light, compact, tolerant of heavy brief loads. But to accomplish these goals, longevity is sacrificed, as well as the ability to sustain repeated deep cycling. Engine heat, and vibration also take their toll. Run an automotive starting battery down to 50% a few dozen times and it's DONE. Keep it longer than 5 years, and be prepared to deal with it on a cold winter day.
Thanks for the quick replies. It has a factory installed trailer package and no other modifications.
I do plan a new battery before the cold Minnesota winter. The multiple occurrences of a discharged condition has certainly brought this battery to the end of its useful life. My concern is that based on the intermittent occurrences and especially the initial occurrence when the vehicle was new. This leads me to believe there is something that is occasionally causing a heavy drain. That is why I've been reluctant to replace the battery and have it suffer a deep drain thus shortening its life.
Battery life is greatly influenced by the ambient temperature, particularly heat. Here in the UAE, where we have 3 to 4 months of the year hitting 120F, sometimes even higher, car batteries tend to fail without warning. There is no real trend, just luck; it could be between 6 months and 3 years if they are fitted in the engine compartment.
They last much longer in cars hat have the battery in the trunk (Like BMW or Volvo); the influence of the heat is way less. Unfortunately, in those cars, like our BMW, a certified battery change would cost 3x - 4x the price of a Ford battery change.
I think Ford Batteries are of excellent quality vs the price. And ford warrants the battery here for 3 years when buying a new car; it means an almost certain free change during warranty.
Here's a trick I learned after moving to Texas 30 years ago as well as years of 4-wheeling. When the temperature gets into the 90s I open the hood when I can after stopping. Generally, when I get home. It's amazing the amount of heat that radiates with hood open. I'm surprised any component survives for long in that. In fact as I enter my neighborhood I pop the hood to cool even more before I get home.
I just bought out the lease on my 2013 Explorer the other day. Part of the process was to inspect the car. They told me battery test came back that it was showing signs of going out and asked if I wanted them to replace it now. Thinking I would save money doing it myself, I said not to.
Now I am wondering, what battery should I go with? I live in Virginia and see weather into the high 90's and as low as 0 throughout the year. Any suggestions?
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I just bought out the lease on my 2013 Explorer the other day. Part of the process was to inspect the car. They told me battery test came back that it was showing signs of going out and asked if I wanted them to replace it now. Thinking I would save money doing it myself, I said not to.
Now I am wondering, what battery should I go with? I live in Virginia and see weather into the high 90's and as low as 0 throughout the year. Any suggestions?
These batteries on the whole don't seem to stand up the way we would expect them to. Depending on the options you have a Limited may require a higher output battery than a Base. Power liftgate, power 3rd row fold seats etc. put more of a demand on the battery. I would think a battery in a 2013 model should still be under warranty.
It would be helpful if you added the 'model' of your 2013 Explorer to your profile so it shows in the margin.
