I think my 4.0 SOHC is hooped ...

[rolleye]

Was hoping I would not need to post here ...

PJ is a base model 2002 Explorer Sport 4.0 with a 5 speed. She has around 180,000 Kilometers on her and was running fairly well - only issue seemed to be codes indicating an issue with an O2 sensor.

Drove fine today until about 2 blocks from home the started making a rather loud noise. Drove it home - only a block or 2 and shut her off. Yikes !!!

Decided to start her up and take a short video and put the video on youtube.

It would be appreciated if some folks could have a look and shoot back some thoughts on the nasty sound. I think that maybe a timing cassette exploded .

https://youtu.be/23EEs48SDqY

Help !!!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

that doesnt sound like (or to me at least) a timing chain. its too loud. and i dont think it would run at all if everything decided to fail at once.

 

[2000StreetRod]

water pump?

It could be the water pump bearing is shot or some other accessory bearing. I suggest removing the serpentine belt and run the engine for less than a minute so it doesn't overheat. If the noise is still present you've eliminated water pump, power steering pump, A/C compressor, alternator, belt tensioner and idler pulleys.

 

[rolleye]

Thanks for the replies guys. I will pull the serpentine in the morning as suggested and go from there.

I had originally posted in the Explorer 911 forum but I guess a mod moved it. Unfortunately it was moved into the 2002-2005 forum but the 2001-2003 Sports topics are supposed to be in the 2nd gen forums....

Could a mod please move it to the correct forum ?

 

[Tech By Trade]

That's exactly what my 07 sounded like when the timing chain was rattling on the front after the guide exploded.

 

[koda2000]

I recently had a loud noise on our '97 Sport SOHC. With the serpentine belt off the noise stopped. In checking the various pulleys it became obvious the water pump was shot. It hadn't leaked at all, but the bearing/shaft had a lot of play. Replaced the w/p (not too difficult of a job) and decided to also replace the belt, tensioner w/pulley and idler pulley as they were a bit on the worn side after 260K and (other than the belt) were probably original to the truck.

The noise in your video sounds pretty much like the noise my w/p was making. If you get a w/p from Advance, make sure it's the correct one. Some have a bypass hose on the top and apparently some don't. Advance said they could order me the one with the get bypass hose, but it would take a week and a half to get it. So I ended up having to buy a brand new one from NAPA for twice the price.

PM me if you'd like directions on how to change the w/p. I watched a video from here - http://www.1aauto.com/?utm_source=MSN_AdCenter&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=MSN_NewMain_Syndicated

 

[rolleye]

I pulled the serpentine belt and crossed my fingers ...

No joy. Same nasty sound.

Any other thoughts ?

 

[BubbaFL]

I pulled the serpentine belt and crossed my fingers ...

No joy. Same nasty sound.

Any other thoughts ?

You should be able to narrow it down if you poke around with a mechanic's stethoscope http://amzn.to/1On0PhI , or just pull the valve covers and take a look.

Sounds to me like a tensioner exploded and the chain is grinding on something.

 

[rb142]

It sounds to me like the front chain guides exploded too. Pull off the valve cover and check for the shrapnel.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Either that or pull the lower oil pan and look for plastic.

 

[rolleye]

So I have decided I am hooped and have began searching for a much newer Ranger or Mustang motor. My logic is that since I have to pull the motor to replace all the timing components I might as well drop in the newest, lowest mileage motor I can find.

I have a line on a low mileage - about 30K miles - 2010 Ranger motor that looks good and will not break the bank.

I have found some great threads here written by guys that have done the swap and it seems to be the right way to go.

Comments on this plan are definitely welcome.

 

[2000StreetRod]

what's broken?

I suggest that you determine with some certainty what's actually broken before replacing the engine. At least either pull the valve covers and inspect or remove the oil pan and inspect. You can perform a compression check to determine if one of the timing chains have slipped vs just a cassette guide broken and no slip. If you're not capable of the above (no tools, no space) or just don't want to then have a mechanic do it.

Do you have rear wheel drive or all wheel drive? If you have rear wheel drive all timing chain related components except for the rear cassette can be replaced with the engine in the vehicle.

 

[rolleye]

It is a 4x4 Sport with a 5 speed manual. I understand that the rear cassette requires the engine removal and am concerned that if the front is indeed screwed then the reliability of the rear components is also in question in my opinion.

I also think that since the tools for the timing job are rather expensive, I would rather use that money on a newer power plant if I am going to pull the engine to replace all the timing components.

The vehicle is my daily driver - not driven since Monday - and I am not in a position to get something better that is working at present.

Don't get me wrong, I REALLY appreciate the input and the decision has not been made yet ...

 

[2000StreetRod]

uncommon drive train

The combination of SOHC V6 with a 5 speed manual transmission is not common here in the USA. I can understand your desire to keep the vehicle and get it in reliable operating condition. 180K km (112K miles) is a little early for the typical cassette failure but not rare. If you can find an engine with only 30K miles at a reasonable cost that has been well maintained then you should be good for another 100K miles as far as the camshaft related components go. Also, replacing the engine is less complicated and faster than replacing failed timing chain related components. And that is important if your daily driver is down. If the body is in decent condition (not rusted out) then engine replacement is probably an appropriate choice for your circumstances. However, even if you replace your engine, knowing what's wrong with it will allow you to determine its resale value unless you plan to keep it for spares.

 

[rolleye]

Thanks 2000StreetRod, that pretty much the way I looked at it.

I am also planning to replace all clutch components as they are original - at least since I have owned it for the past five years. Service records from the dealership where it was bought seem to indicate that the transmission was replaced for some reason in 2004 so the clutch could be of that vintage as well.

The body is virtually rust free because local governments here - Calgary, Canada - don't use salt on the roads in the winter. and the vehicle has been problem free in other respects. I expect I will keep the truck until the bitter end.

I don't know much about the potential donor vehicle - it was a written off roll over 2010 Ranger - so I am taking a bit of a chance there. I was told that it was running but have no idea about its maintenance history. My gut feeling is that a 5 year old motor will have more longevity than my current 13 year old motor and I will also benefit from the improved timing components and other fixes

Some other threads here that I have read have given me some good insight into the process and I have friends who have some experience as well. It appears that I can use the injectors from the donor by using a simple adaptor so I will investigate that further.

I am unclear if I can replace the clutch with the transmission in the vehicle - after the engine id pulled - or if it would be better to drop the tranny as well.

Again, I really appreciate the input from all.

 

[rb142]

Definitely drop the trans as well. If it was an auto, you could just pull the engine. But with the manual, trying to get the engine back in with the trans in position is a huge PITA. You could probably make it slightly easier by just blocking under the trans and sliding it back a bit instead of completely dropping it.

If you can afford to keep the old engine, it would be a good source of parts. You may even consider rebuilding the timing hardware at your leisure. Then you could either swap it back in the future should the second engine have problems, or you could sell it for much higher value as a running engine.

But I also suggest you confirm that it is a timing issue before you replace the engine. It is possible that it could still be something else that may not necessitate replacing the engine.

 

[rolleye]

Agreed

I would be much happier knowing what the issue is...

When the sound first started I was surprised at how loud it was in the cab, But with the hood down it makes sense that more sound would be directed towards the firewall.

My clutch has been a little hinky on and off for the last few month ... I am thinking the throw out bearing is on its way out. The sound doesn't change if the clutch is depressed or not though....

But as vroomzoomboom said

that doesnt sound like (or to me at least) a timing chain. its too loud. and i don't think it would run at all if everything decided to fail at once.

He has always been a voice of reason in my experience.

I guess I would need to pull both valve covers and the pan and look for debris. If found it would answer the question or raise more lol.

She starts easily and the sound doesn't change when the clutch is depressed and I didn't notice a change when it was in gear before I got home.

As all accessories have been ruled out by taking off the serpentine what's left ?



I have located 2 possible donors - a 2010 and a 2011 - both Rangers with pretty close to the same mileage and fairly evenly priced - an asking price difference of about $100 CDN ($75 US). I think I have verified that '05 - '11 are the same block. Will continue looking into those & see what else I can find.

I also have realized that the clutch situation may be clear as mud - I remember looking into clutches via PM with BonesDT after reading his amazing manual trans thread - Everything I know about the M5OD-R1 & BW1354M.

Later, the 210hp SOHC engine, which uses the R1HD trans, uses a dual-mass flywheel (which I think contains springs or something inside). These are typical on heavy duty manual diesel pickups. This flywheel ranges from $400 to dealership $800. Apparantly, these flywheels can't be resurfaced, which means everytime you replace your clutch, you'll need $800 for a brand new flywheel. Have fun with that.

Maybe the situation changes if the motor changes ... I definitely need help with that. lol. The flywheel does exist and is available and is less than $400 but still a cost item and would need to be ordered - and then a border run made to pick up all the parts. Like I said - clear as mud. I will post in that thread as well.

Is it reasonable to assume that it doesn't matter if the Ranger donor is a 4x4 or not ?

Does it matter if the Ranger is a 5 speed ?
​

Any input is appreciated.

Definitely some questions that I need to find answers to fairly quickly. Winter is fast approaching and my single garage is not heated.

Pressure make Diamonds as they say.

It also turns big rocks into dust.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Too bad you weren't a little closer I would lend you my timing kit. It actually came out of Calgary from a fellow I bought it from used off Kijiji. He dropped it off in Moose Jaw on his way home for Christmas last year and my parents brought it up to Saskatoon for me. Only dinged me 150 bucks for it and he threw in a couple of jugs of 5w30 because he didn't need it, he traded his POS ford in on something reliable.
I would sell the kit, but I don't trust the 4.0. I just got a bad feeling that I am going to have to pull that pile of junk apart again some day before I can afford to dump it. Dad also has a 4.0L in his 07 ranger so I'm sure he will need it some day. It will be a year on the 15th though, since I had to put any real money into it, knock on wood.

 

[rolleye]

Thanks TBT, I have pretty much decided that if the motor is coming out ... it's not going back in.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

He has always been a voice of reason in my experience.

you know you still can do a v8 swap. just have to figure out the electrical. and hey, if your going to that, might want to think about doing a 363 stroker. its the new bad boy on the block!

Winter is fast approaching and my single garage is not heated.

i feel your pain

mine isnt heated either.......