Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[Rick]

Take the seats down south of the border. You can probably get a better deal.

 

[BKennedy]

Take the seats down south of the border. You can probably get a better deal.

I haven't been down there since they started leaving people's heads on overpasses.

 

[Stic-o]

I haven't been down there since they started leaving people's heads on overpasses.

Yeah probably not the best place for some one of your retired profession.

 

[jmdirk]

Looked up the MC and booster on Rock Auto. The T-bird has a hydroboost model. Something to think about.....

[MENTION=28261]jmdirk[/MENTION] Also, now that I have your attention.....
After taking the MC's I have apart, I noticed the primary piston and the secondary piston are quite a bit different in length. I read your post about brakes again, and got confused. From what I understand, both pistons put out the same amount of pressure, but how is that possible with the different lengths of stroke? It seems to me that the primary piston operates the rear brakes and the secondary piston the fronts looking at where the brake lines enter the MC. However, having the longer stroke piston operate the smaller diameter calipers seems strange. Is that correct, or should I have the lines reversed so the secondary piston operates the rear calipers?

I also noticed that the longer I am out wheeling, the softer the pedal seems to get. You think getting some super duper brake pads, like Green Stuff would help?

Sorry for the delay in answering.

The piston length has nothing to do with the pressure. Only the diameter of the pistons matter. Remember that this is a hydraulic system and fluid does not compress. If it was a pneumatic system, then it would be a different story.

Primary vs secondary for front or back doesn't make much difference. Different manufacturers do it different ways. How they balance the brakes is usually through the use of the proportioning valves, residual valves (from drum brakes) etc.

This really sounds like an air in the line issue. Sorry to be obvious but, are you bench bleeding your MC?

 

[BKennedy]

Bench bled the master, bled it through the ports, and it even has its own bleeder valve. System has been power bled, vacuum bled, gravity bled, bled at different angles, removed the front calipers from the mounts and bled them standing straight up, etc.. Must have pushed five quarts of fluid through. No air in the system.

Part of the problem was solved when I removed the shims from the front calipers. They try to walk out from under the pads while off road. Pedal is much firmer now, acceptable, but still soft.

In your thread where you were talking about volume to push the larger calipers is what got me thinking about the longer F150 MC.

 

[gmanpaint]

Another stupid question.

When you did the rear disc 8.8 conversion, did you make sure the calipers are installed left & right appropriate with bleeders on top?

 

[BKennedy]

Another stupid question.

When you did the rear disc 8.8 conversion, did you make sure the calipers are installed left & right appropriate with bleeders on top?

Yes

 

[BKennedy]

I drove the Explorer around town for a few hours the past few days. I think most of the soft pedal issue was the shims in the front calipers. Once removed, the pedal firmed up a little. I need to remember to look for the simple solutions first. It still feels like the rear brakes are working harder than they should, but the way the proportioning valve is adjusted is the way the pedal feels best. If I cut down on the pressure going to the rear, the pedal gets very soft.

Am doing other work on the Explorer:

Re-wiring the tow plug wires so the plug is out of sight near the winch instead of being ball-bungied to the driver side coil over hoop. While working on that, I discovered the 12v charging wire going to the batteries while plugged into the RV is not functioning. Need to pull that apart to see what happened.

Got an entire AC kit off ebay to give it one more try. Compressor field coil is pressed on in wrong orientation so the electrical plug is crushed. Working with the vendor to see what he wants to do.

Picked up some more 1-1/2" tubing for cage improvements. Never liked the upper windshield cross bar. It restricts visibility. Adding another diagonal cross bar to the B pillar. If there is any tube left over, might add another diagonal piece to the C pillar.

Where does everyone get their windshields? Also on the list. And...can I push out the old windshield if needed?

Almost scored a set of air bumps, but seller would not come down enough for me to purchased new but out of warranty FOA bumps. Keep waiting for the right pair to come by. If anybody finds a pair of 2.0 by 2" travel bumps, let me know.

 

[BKennedy]

What do people think of these?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BXQKN4/ref=pe_58340_156708590_em_1p_0_ti
The issue I think bumps will take care of, these might work as well. What the problem is, while moving on faster terrain, the suspension doesn't compress nearly as much on one side or the other as when crawling, but the suspension needs to be limited for crawling to keep stuff from contacting other stuff. Its when the axle is at a more severe angle that it needs to be limited. The bumps would not limit as much on a hard hit as a soft hit, like when crawling, allowing more shock compression travel while moving faster.

 

[gmanpaint]

Those look like an affordable option at $230.00 with cans, but 5000 cycles will add up fast, before having to replace the inserts. I like them a lot actually. Can't be hard to rebuild em every now and then.

Since the cans are weld on, you can set them where you want for collapsed length.

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks. I was thinking they would work better than air bumps for my application.
I also have an idea for adjustable height cans.

The AC compressor vendor is sending me a new unit and said I could keep the old one if I sent him a picture. Sent these:

 

[FR-425]

I think the Daystar bumps will be perfect for your slow impact crawly situation.

and if you ever fail to see that big one at high speed they'll save the day at least that one time.

 

[BKennedy]

Yeah, another purchase for the Explorer. And, if I ever decide to change them out for air bumps, I will not have to change the cans.

I figured out why the 12 volt from the RV to the Explorer while towing wasn't working; I never wired the RV side of the plug.

 

[BKennedy]

Ordering the Daystar Stinger bushings and two cans from davesoffroadsupply.com. Dave matched the Amazon bump price and is shipping free with two cans for $20 each. Price dropped on Amazon so total to me is $205.01.

 

[BKennedy]

I should have had all the recent redo list redone ready, however;

Bump cans showed up in a day from Synergy, bumps are not here yet. Vendor is checking into it. I could have already had them if I ordered off Amazon, but I wanted to give him my business.

Seats are on hold until I find a suitable set for modification.

My tube bender guy has been out sick all week, so cage work is also on hold.

Remove/Replace windshield has to wait until I start the cage work.

Don't want to do the AC work until the other stuff is finished.

Speaking of windshields. I found a bunch of used windshields. At least 50 at one JY glass shop, and they are cheap. I have heard it is not worth replacing windshields DIY because its a job that takes a certain amount of skill gained from experience. Is this true?

 

[Stic-o]

Speaking of windshields. I found a bunch of used windshields. At least 50 at one JY glass shop, and they are cheap. I have heard it is not worth replacing windshields DIY because its a job that takes a certain amount of skill gained from experience. Is this true?

Yes, JP has needed for 10 years. We have a spare in another truck at Zukman's. However we tried removing a already damaged one from a Ranger as a test, and it didn't end well. When I had the one replaced in my old f150 I watched and talked to the guy about it. The biggest problem is removing all the old glue and replacing it. Way to time consuming and there is no promises it will seal correct.

Just call safely and have them install a new one.

 

[BKennedy]

A while ago we were discussing Hi-Lift and other jacks. Anybody have one of these?

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/powerbuilt-3-ton-all-in-one-jack

I think I might go get one next week.

 

[Rick]

I've been looking at those, but have no experience with them. Eagerly waiting for you to check them out

 

[RockRanger]

Pretty cool. Let us know how you like it.

 

[FR-425]

For trail use or shop?

For shop use go nnuts and get the 12 ton pneumatic! $100.00

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/big-red-12-ton-air-hydraulic-bottle-jack?cm_vc=-10005