Let's see, what can I powdercoat today? | Page 75 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Let's see, what can I powdercoat today?

nissan wiper 1.jpg
nissan wiper 2.jpg
nissan wiper 3.jpg
I have been practicing with my powdercoating system. So, today I thought I'd coat the wipers on my Wife's Nissan--might as well hit the ones on the Mounty also--
 



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Well, my wife came home with an old Cosco 3 tier cart which had about 5 coats of paint on it.

I burned that stuff all off, had to farm out the blasting, but they did a good job.

I then did the handles with "super chrome" and clear vision top coat. The trays are silver vein with sultan green transparent.

As much as I would like to end up with a chrome look, what you see is about as chrome as I can get with powder. Looks more like polished stainless steel to me.

Sorry bout the lens spot

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003_zpsejmfdxi3.jpg
 



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Nice!

.... as always. ;)
 






Cool :thumbsup:
 






Here's some pictures of the valve cover for my 2002 KIA Sportage Jon did last year. Just got around to putting on a couple of weeks ago.

Valve cover 1.JPG


Valve cover 2.JPG


Valve cover 3.JPG


Valve cover 5.JPG


Valve cover 4.JPG


Valve cover 6.JPG
 












Jon your the man. This stuff looks great. Makes me want to go order more powders from powderbythepound.com lol. I'd like to know more about the primer coatings as well. My chrome only comes out 90% good.
 












Can you powder coat the inside of an oil pan?

These guys are all freaked out about it.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...cs/3972247/Re:_VW_Oil_pan_problem#Post3972247


Powdercoating is baked on for 10 minutes ( part temp) at about 400 degrees. Unless something on the inside of the engine comes in contact with it the coating will stick, provided the surface was prepped properly.

For those worried about internal engine parts being coated, there are several that are. High temp piston dome coatings come to mind.

On steel parts I would rather the entire thing be coated, as the masking line transition to bare metal will be the failure point where corrosion will start, and migrate under the coating.
 






Jon, have you found a good metallic bright blue that is a single stage. all the ones ive found that I liked have been 2 stage.
 






Jon, have you found a good metallic bright blue that is a single stage. all the ones ive found that I liked have been 2 stage.

Nope. And even the ones which are claimed to be single stage are actually not.

The coating itself might not fail but without a clear coat it will loose luster. I will not use any metallic without a clear powder top coat.
 






clear doesn't bother me, that's somewhat easy, but the candy colors , man I can never get parts to come out the same color.
 






clear doesn't bother me, that's somewhat easy, but the candy colors , man I can never get parts to come out the same color.

OK, you have to hit the tight spots first, then the whole part. Hang in oven until the powder flows out well, remove part and re shoot the light spots, then back into oven for full cure. A clear over the candy will help also. In fact, the candies fade in sunlight so I have been clearing them also.

Hope this helps!

Which gun do you have?

Do you have a good ground rod to your booth?
 






Im still using the eastwood system. I don't do much coating so its ok at the hobby level. I do already hit the corners first as well as turn down the voltage when doing so. it seems to help not build up as much. I also initially get the part to about 200 before the initial coat, then reshoot shortly after it flows. my candy parts come out nice, but if I put 3-4 side by side none are the same exact color.

I also don't have a booth and am using a "modified home oven". Works great but I couldn't do a set of 4 wheels and have them all match.
 






A Ford part before and after

The casting marks beneath the lettering bars showed up worse than I thought, but whatcha gonna do? Fixing it would have required hours of sanding to achieve a uniform texture on the entire surface, and would not stand up to bead blasting.

As cast, before , beadblasted, and after
 

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Lets just say that my Intake Air Temps are nice and low while I'm tuning.
The whole spooning thing makes me uncomfortable. :)
 









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It's so cold there we'd have to spoon.

see what mean? :D


can we just be friends?

as long as spooning doesnt lead to forking.....

besides your baking oven will keep the neighbourhood warm
 






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