1000 Mile Engine Break-In: How Critical?

[peterk9]

In Canada we are not able to do a Vehicle Health Report at all.

Peter

 

[Maniak]

In Canada we are not able to do a Vehicle Health Report at all.

Peter

Did you ever figure out if it was caused by where it was bought, the vin or just where it thinks your internet connection is?

~Mark

 

[peterk9]

I think it may have to do with why we can't get SYNC Services as well. Everything has to be bilingual! We get 2 sets of warning stickers on our visors and even get a transparent sticker on the passenger window that warns that objects in the mirror are closer than they appear.

Peter

 

[Halwg]

This break-in period is a bunch of bunk. The last 4 vehicles i have bought I purchased a couple days before we went on vacation and drove those vehicles at highway speeds, generally between 65 and 80, for approximately 1500 miles. I've never had a problem, and I change oil at the normal interval. These 1,000 mile changes are ridiculous. I change mine at 5,000.

 

[fordfan2006]

3.5 Ecoboost break in period

How would you all recommend breaking in a new ecoboost?

 

[chicagoslick]

Drive it easy with no towing for the first 1k miles...If you are keeping it (buying it) change the oil. If you are leasing it that would be optional. This is just my recommendation!!!

Look at pages:
174 (engine / fuel economy)
251 (ties / fuel economy)
460 (health report)

 

[need-a-cage]

Vary the rpm as much as possible, but keep it under 3.5-4k and heavy loads. That is what I did for 500 miles. Do not use the cruise control since it will keep it at 1 rpm and avoid over 50% throttle. I wanted to change the oil at 1k, but ended up changing it at 2,800 to full synthetic. After 500 miles, I gradually started going over 50% throttle and higher in rpm. I think I was doing WOT runs around 600 miles. I just couldn't wait any longer to see how it felt like.

 

[peterk9]

How would you all recommend breaking in a new ecoboost?

The Owner's Manual covers this to some degree. There is no difference indicated in breaking in the different engines.

Peter

 

[CajunFordEx]

How would you all recommend breaking in a new ecoboost?

There are a few ways to break in a new/rebuilt motor. It matters not if one is NA or turbo charged, truck, motorcycle, or lawn mower, the procedures are the same. You will get many opinions on the proper way to achieve break in. Here are some good reads for you.
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.yotashop.com/recommended-break-in-procedure-for-rebuilt-engines/
http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTips/breakin_procedure.htm

Good Luck.

 

[613GT500]

The only break-in procedure I follow is to dump the factory oil early and fill her up with sythetic.

My testment to this, is a 15yr old Acura Integra TypeR (bought brand new) and I didn't do anything special other than dumping the oil for synthetic early on and runs just as strong.

 

[Stick4503]

Everything I have read and from what my engine builder has told me, the engine will not get a proper break in while using synthetic oils. They recommend conventional oil for the first few oil changes then you can swap to synthetic if you wish.

 

[613GT500]

Everything I have read and from what my engine builder has told me, the engine will not get a proper break in while using synthetic oils. They recommend conventional oil for the first few oil changes then you can swap to synthetic if you wish.

Ok, what about all those vehicles that comes filled with synthetic?

 

[chicagoslick]

Everything I have read and from what my engine builder has told me, the engine will not get a proper break in while using synthetic oils. They recommend conventional oil for the first few oil changes then you can swap to synthetic if you wish.

This was true many years (>10yrs) ago. That is no longer recommended nor needed. Just as someone alluded to earlier, many cars come with synthetic already from the factory.

The only reason I say to change the oil in the first 1k miles is to ensure all of the trash from building the engine is removed. Most new engines are ran a short period of time and oil drained and refilled prior to making its way to the dealership.

 

[Stick4503]

My comment had more to due with a fresh rebuild at home engine. What you do with your straight from the stealership may be different. I am sure they have come up with a break in prior to delivery due to so many people not even being able to check the air pressure in there own tires much less follow directions for a break in of a new engine.

 

[chicagoslick]

My comment had more to due with a fresh rebuild at home engine. What you do with your straight from the stealership may be different. I am sure they have come up with a break in prior to delivery due to so many people not even being able to check the air pressure in there own tires much less follow directions for a break in of a new engine.

Absolutely agree with you on a fresh rebuild. When I used to build engines I would change the oil 3x before driving it....

 

[bigdude2468]

Oh God lets not get into the premium Vs regular gas thing again. Unless your engine is designed to use premium fuel (the 3.5 liter NA is not) the engine does not perform any better on premium than regular. Your gas mileage will not be better using premium. Premium fuel detonates at a higher compression ratio than regular. The higher compression is what gives engines higher performance, not the fuel. So no running premium fuel will not be a benefit during break in.

 

[peterk9]

Oh God lets not get into the premium Vs regular gas thing again. Unless your engine is designed to use premium fuel (the 3.5 liter NA is not) the engine does not perform any better on premium than regular. Your gas mileage will not be better using premium. Premium fuel detonates at a higher compression ratio than regular. The higher compression is what gives engines higher performance, not the fuel. So no running premium fuel will not be a benefit during break in.

We're talking about OIL here, not gas.

Peter

 

[TRWXXA]

We're talking about OIL here, not gas.

Peter

But it is a similar sounding argument -- ask 10 different people about it, and you'll get 17 different opinions.

Same thing with the oil change interval debate.

That being said... Here is my $0.02 on engine break-in:

Don't beat on your new engine. But don't baby it either.

Parts in your engine stretch, compress, and bend. And they do so more at higher RPM. You do need to get these parts properly worn-in at their limits, both high and low.

A little idle period when you 1st start up to get all the fluids circulating. Some gentle driving to get everything up to operating temperature. Then drive at varied RPMs and loads -- including the occasional romp on the loud pedal to the redline.

So as long as the motor is good and warmed up, don't be afraid to hammer it going down the local on-ramp.

And just like not beating on it right after you start, don't hammer it right before you shut it down. Let temps stabilize before you turn the motor off (especially you EcoBoost guys).

After the first 1000 - 1500 miles, change the oil and filter. A lot of wear is happening in these early stages, and I figure it's best to just get the debris out of there.

The worst running engine I ever had was babied too much during break-in. I thought the gentle life it had would be a benefit, but as soon I started to drive it in a more spirited fashion than the previous owner (yes... a "little old lady") I got issues -- oil blow-by, down on power, poor mileage, valve train noise. It was GM's bulletproof straight-6. They would outlast the car they came in. That one needed a rebuild at 55k miles.

And BTW...

Bigdude2468 is absolutely right.

 

[peterk9]

And BTW...

Bigdude2468 is absolutely right.

I used 91 octane for several months and never noticed any difference in mileage so I went back to 87 and saved $$.

Peter

 

[TRWXXA]

I used 91 octane for several months and never noticed any difference in mileage so I went back to 87 and saved $$.

Peter

Yep. To use anything other than the MINIMUM recommended grade of fuel for your car (or tune) is almost literally blowing your money out the tailpipes.

I belong to many car forums, and I can say that octane rating is the single most hotly contested, and LEAST understood subject. It is staggering how many people think that because race cars use 110 octane fuel, that if they put 110 fuel in their daily driver, it'll perform like a race car. And no amount of scientific information, logic, nor the fact that they probably had unburned fuel dripping out their exhaust, would dissuade them from their seat-of-the-pants "proof" (can you say "placebo effect").

Sorry for the OT post.

And now back to our regularly scheduled topic.