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Battery Life

Got the oil changed today and they checked the battery and advised my battery is at 466 CCA on a 650 CCA rated battery and that it needs to be replaced. Was I getting the hard sell on a new battery or do I have a legitimate concern?

EX is a 2012 LTD w/ 42K. Reading through some of these posts, looks like most have replaced the OE battery around the 3-4 year timeframe. Hoping to maybe stretch this out and wait to replace before the next winter so I have a nice fresh battery for the colder months but don't want to get stranded.
 



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I got almost exactly 4 years out of mine. After a few periodic slow starts, one day it would no longer start without a jump.
 






Got the oil changed today and they checked the battery and advised my battery is at 466 CCA on a 650 CCA rated battery and that it needs to be replaced. Was I getting the hard sell on a new battery or do I have a legitimate concern?

EX is a 2012 LTD w/ 42K. Reading through some of these posts, looks like most have replaced the OE battery around the 3-4 year timeframe. Hoping to maybe stretch this out and wait to replace before the next winter so I have a nice fresh battery for the colder months but don't want to get stranded.
If it hasn't been giving you any trouble why not keep driving it? You may well get through to next Winter.

Peter
 






If it hasn't been giving you any trouble why not keep driving it? You may well get through to next Winter.

Peter

That's what I'd prefer to do, was just looking for some insight on the current 466 CCA rating and if it should be a concern. My wife is the primary driver, shuttling around the kids. Don't want them to get stuck one day.

I work with a bunch of car guys, former mechanics and such. I was asking some of them on their thoughts. One said he replaces his battery every 3-4 years regardless, others said to drive it til it dies. My boss used to have a mid-90's Mercedes S-Class that he drove for 12 years. Sold it with the original battery still in it (much like you and your 81 Datsun :D) not that I expect similar results with the Explorer battery.
 






That's what I'd prefer to do, was just looking for some insight on the current 466 CCA rating and if it should be a concern. My wife is the primary driver, shuttling around the kids. Don't want them to get stuck one day.

I work with a bunch of car guys, former mechanics and such. I was asking some of them on their thoughts. One said he replaces his battery every 3-4 years regardless, others said to drive it til it dies. My boss used to have a mid-90's Mercedes S-Class that he drove for 12 years. Sold it with the original battery still in it (much like you and your 81 Datsun :D) not that I expect similar results with the Explorer battery.

Batteries are fickle beasts. They don't necessarily give you a warning before they die. They don't necessarily die by way of a chart.
I wouldn't risk it. Your wife and kids, seems like a no-brainer to me. I'd replace it. Now, I would check around the coming Holiday to see if any good deals show up.
 






I recall in the olden days battery makers recommending 1 CCA for every cubic inch of engine displacement. At 466 CCA with a 3.5L engine, you're good to go. My Suburban with a 5.3L engine has a 6 year old battery that makes 350CCA. It's a little slow to crank but she always starts. I agree with Peter. If it's not giving you problems, stick with it.
 






Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep running with it for now.
 






I've got a 2014 XLT with 18K miles, bought used from a dealership a couple months ago. The battery failed the test on it's first service and without asking they popped a new BX-59 in there, under warranty thank you very much. I worry that my aftermarket amplifier killed the battery prematurely- it's got 850watts, though I almost never listen without the engine running.
Should I invest in a stronger battery? Or a deep cycle battery?
 






My 2011 Explorer has 41,000 miles on it and I just had the factory battery replaced.
 






I've got a 2014 XLT with 18K miles, bought used from a dealership a couple months ago. The battery failed the test on it's first service and without asking they popped a new BX-59 in there, under warranty thank you very much. I worry that my aftermarket amplifier killed the battery prematurely- it's got 850watts, though I almost never listen without the engine running.
Should I invest in a stronger battery? Or a deep cycle battery?
I think this is a good read: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ILwkrr86aA0/learn/learningcenter/car/stereo_power_ups.html

I think the headlight test is an excellent one. Run the stereo fairly loud with the engine and headlights on, play some good bass music, and see if your headlights dim at all. If it does, sounds like an upgrade could be in order. Seeing you have a new battery, a capacitor upgrade might do it.
 






Service date on a 2013 was 09/2012. Second time now battery failed to start Explorer. First time was test drive day. It was probably zero degrees and I'm sure the Ex had been sitting on the lot a couple week with little if any running. Failed to start and sales lady got a jumper and it started easy.
Yesterday morning about 40 degrees it failed to start. Accessories were working so I put popped the hood. Removed battery caps and there was a need for some fluid. Not low enough to see the plates but plenty low enough that if this were a real battery they would be showing. Filled up to the slot all 6 cells. Placed the 10 amp charger on for 15 minutes while I returned to the house to change jacket, check email again, watch some more depressing news. Walked out, flipped charger to start and turned the key. Started fine. Removed everything/ put away. hopped in and drove to the bank about two miles. Shut it off, returned and it started ok. All day driving today and no issues.
My takeaways. Original battery is going after just about 4 years. i have at least Three other batteries that are older and working better. The OEM battery is inexpensive, at least I hope it was. it will not last the winter.
Also I was looking for some type of battery/voltage/amperage usage to see what was happening on the charge but was unable to find any. High tech as this Explorer is it should have a quick, easy to find display for voltage and amperage draw.
Am I missing something here??
 






...... High tech as this Explorer is it should have a quick, easy to find display for voltage and amperage draw.
Am I missing something here??
Display doesn't exist.

Peter
 






Display doesn't exist.

Peter

So we hasta mount the old sun amp and voltage gages under the dash like I had in my old 65 Falcon. Had a Vacume gage too. Big tach on the steering column. They all danced when I reved up the 289......
 






Service date on a 2013 was 09/2012. Second time now battery failed to start Explorer. First time was test drive day. It was probably zero degrees and I'm sure the Ex had been sitting on the lot a couple week with little if any running. Failed to start and sales lady got a jumper and it started easy.

This is when your Explorer's battery was doomed to a short life. Automotive lead-acid batteries really hate being discharged to the point where they don't have the voltage to start a vehicle. Unless it's a deep-cycle battery, just a single deep-discharge event is enough to affect a battery's chance for a long life.

Don't know if they still do it, but a few years ago Volkswagen dealers hooked solar-powered chargers to all new cars in their inventory. The solar chargers were inside the cars, positioned on top of the dashboard and likely plugged into the cigarette-lighter socket. The solar charger served to keep the battery fully charged while the dealer waited weeks or months for someone to buy the car.
 






First battery was swapped just under 36k on mine. Never noticed any issues but dealer did a test on it as part of their multi point when I was having an oil change done.

Fast forward to Tuesday... car was at detailer all day being washed, waxed, clay barred and interior done. Battery died and he needed to jump start it. Worked the next morning till my wife was at work.. battery dead again.. replaced with an interstate battery.

Once it dies once.. it will not survive like it did previously.
 






So we hasta mount the old sun amp and voltage gages under the dash like I had in my old 65 Falcon. Had a Vacume gage too. Big tach on the steering column. They all danced when I reved up the 289......
I still have a Sun tachometer that I bought about 45 years ago sitting in the basement.:wave:

Peter

Sun Tach.JPG
 






Just replaced the original battery in my 2011 Limited, winter is just around the corner and I didn't feel like pushing my luck.
 






Just replaced my Explorer battery after 5 years and 10 months. I ran it out of battery 2 years ago in a winter storm by accident when I left the A/C on without the engine running and the battery was never the same, it would discharge in less than 1 hour with hazards on. As a post mentioned above, if you discharge a car battery below a certain voltage, the chemistry changes and the plates get damaged inside and it won't hold a charge as well. I think if I didn't run it out, it would have lasted 10 years of ownership.

The replacement battery is also a lot bigger in size for roughly the same price. I upgraded the battery with a reserve capacity of 140 and CC amps of 750. Huge difference from the 550 cold cranking amps from the original factory battery. I probably should have just bought an economy battery and it would have been the same thing. They are all lead acid batteries at the end of the day and should work if you don't discharge them.

I was also lucky because the car was on the truck when I bought it so the car didn't sit on dealership lots where it could fully discharged.
 






the chemistry changes and the plates get damaged inside and it won't hold a charge

As I said the lead flakes off the copper plates shorting the cell. Shorts two cells together. No mystery here.
Some lead is a better more durable,solid tolerant of not being positively or negatively charged, less sensitive to having no electrical bias without falling apart.

Many batteries CAN be fully discharged without being damaged.

Adding antimony and tin improves deep cycling but this increases water consumption and escalates the need to equalize. Calcium reduces self-discharge, but the positive lead-calcium plate has the side effect of growing due to grid oxidation when being over-charged. Modern lead acid batteries also make use of doping agents such as selenium, cadmium, tin and arsenic to lower the antimony and calcium content.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/corrosion_shedding_and_internal_short


http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/lead_based_batteries
 



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I upgraded the battery with a reserve capacity of 140 and CC amps of 750. Huge difference from the 550 cold cranking amps from the original factory battery. I probably should have just bought an economy battery and it would have been the same thing.

I seem to do the same thing. I replaced with diehards for years and the bateries lasted the life of the car till recently. Had a DieHard die hard. Was under warranty/pro rated.

Replaced Cadillac battery with GM oem because it was under the back seat. Glad to see it go with the car.

Just replaced a OEM battery in My 2011 Malibu in 2015. Spent good money again and that car is gone. I kept the OEM battery because it still can work some till it gets -20.
Replaced the Battery in the Lexus at Lexus. It did not last 2 years. Replaced with another under warranty. Oem Batteries are just junk.
Now the Explorer Battery will not make it thru winter I am certain. I need to research Batteries.
 






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