Here ya' go. Good luck!
Front window regulators
1. Remove the interior door panel (I assume you know how to do this, but if you want advice, ask).
2. Remove the speaker and speaker mount,
3. Remove the interior door handle. 2 screws and push it forward to release it from the door. Then unhook it from the rod. Sometimes there's a spring metal clip, sometimes not. The clip does not seem to be necessary. Also remove the plastic/foam weather-shield so you can have access to all the required holes in the metal door. You can put it back with a couple of pieces of tape when your done. I put them at the top of the door only. Gravity and the interior panel hold it in place otherwise.
4. Get yourself some black Gorilla brand duct tape. This is necessary to hold the glass up while you work with disconnecting and replacing the regulator. Be sure to use 3-4 pieces to hold the glass up. You don't want it falling on you and possibly breaking. This tape also works great for reattaching the weather shield.
5. Remove the rear lower window channel (one bolt through the door and pull down). you will first need to disconnect the wire for the door latch switch from the rear window channel (one of those plastic xmas tree clips).
6. Unbolt the regulator cross bar piece from the door (2 nuts)
7. Remove the one nut which serves as a "steady" for the window motor. IIRC for the passenger side it's located at around 11:00 relative to the 2 aluminum rivets that hold the regulator to the door. As I was working on the driver's door, the nut was located at 1:00.
The next part gets tricky if the window will not go up and down (which was my case).
There are 2 aluminum rivets that hold the regulator to the glass. There are 2 access holes in the door, but they are rather small and must be lined up with the rivets in order to drill them out. As my glass was sitting in the bottom of the door and could not be raised/lowered mechanically, I had to lift it manually to the required height and duct tape it where I needed it to be (not terribly easy while working by myself, but doable by relocating the tape several times).
All 5 rivets will still have the metal rod stuck in them. Using an appropriate sized punch, the rods must be knocked out before the rivet heads can be drilled off. It fairly easy to knock the metal rods/pins out, but it may take a few tries. Knock all 5 out before proceeding.
I have a very sharp 5/8" drill bit that works well for drilling the heads off the aluminum rivets, but a more common 1/2" bit will probably work. Just make sure it's fairly sharp.
I drilled the 2 glass retaining rivets first and then the 3 regulator retaining rivets. It doesn't really matter which you do first.
FYI, The rivets like to start spinning when they're about 1/2 drilled. I find I can usually stop them from spinning by jamming a small screw driver under the heads, or holding the back with a pair of pliers or a larger screw driver. The rivets are the "banana-style" like the ones used on the exterior door handles.
There's a single electrical connection for the window motor (red and yellow wire) which must be unplugged and pushed inside the door.
Once all the rivets are out I found I was able to collapse the regulator by hand and finagle it out of the door through the large hole in the lower rear of the door. As the interior door handle rod will be loose, it tends to get in your way. Wire it up or be careful not to bend it.
Installation of the new regulator is the opposite of removal. Get the regulator cross bar and "steady" nuts reattached loosely first and them plug the motor in so that you can raise/lower the regulator as needed to line up the holes (be careful because of the AUTO DOWN feature). I use bolts and washers with nylock nuts in place of all 5 rivets. I don't know what size the bolt shanks are, but the heads are 7/16 th's (1/4x20 I think). The bolts fit the rivet holes perfectly. I buy them at an Ace Hardware and I get a few short ones (1/2" ?) and a few longer ones (3/4" ?) along with the washers and nylock nuts. They're cheap so get a few of each size. I try to get grade 5 bolts, but they didn't have grade 5 for the shorter bolts, so I just got regular grade for them. As I recall I used the 3/4" on the two glass retainer holes and the three 1/2" bolts on the window regulator with the nuts facing the interior for the 3 regulator holes and facing the outside of the door on the window retainers. Just make sure there's no interference when the glass goes up/down. I put the washers under the nuts only. You need to have enough bolt thread through the nuts to engage the nylon lock part to make them secure.
Be sure to lube the glass channels when you're done. Not doing this is what tends to screw up the regulators due to the way the glass fits in the channels. I find the spray silicon works great for this and lasts a long time.
I think that's everything you need to know. If you have any questions, just ask.