98 Eddie Bauer decision

[firstfordowner202]

ok so if anyone has been following what I have been posting over the past week or so. You will see that I just purchased this SUV. There is a horrific grinding noise that I found out is coming from the front differential. Then the truck bucks like a horse, which is coming from the transfer case. I also need brakes and rotors in the front, upper and lower ball joints on both sides. And tire rods on both sides. SMMFH!! I only paid $580 for it. Apparently the parts alone will cost nearly, if not over $1000!!!! This is my only car, and Im a little upset that I brought it.. I like the truck. The engine and the trans are good.

My question: Would you scrap it, or fix it?

 

[SupaSwope]

Brake Job, Tie Rods, and Ball Joints wont cost all that much a few hundred if you install them yourself. The transfer case though. Is a whole project of its own. I know the local pickapart yard sells them for like $150. You could have it all fixed for less then $500 bucks if you do it yourself.

 

[SoNic67]

If you can't work on an older car, just don't buy it. Especially when is already neglected, it might need some sweat to get back in shape.
The bad news is that it is a V6. Those engines and transmissions are known weak links.

 

[koda2000]

I have to agree with SoNic67. If I had to pay someone to do repairs buying older vehicles would not make sense. Plus I also know how to evaluate the condition of an older vehicle before buying it and have had few surprises and unexpected repairs in the 6 Gen II Explorers/Mountaineers I've purchased in the past 4 years. You should have had some idea that the 20 year old vehicle you bought for $580 was going to need some expensive repairs, when decent ones are selling for $1500-$2000.

Below is an example of something I would be interested in if I were looking for a nice '98...

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/5692153100.html

 

[96eb96]

If you can't do it yourself - I would say scrap it and cut losses. Like others said the the SOHC engine isn't the greatest. If you bring this into a shop you are looking at 2-3Grand of work if they buy parts(maybe even more with the front diff). And you hope the shop does good work.

If you wan't to get your hands dirty - then keep it. Rockauto has great deals and if Advance Auto is nearby there are awesome 40 off 100 coupons(and other amounts too). Hopefully the engine and trans will hold up another few years, but everything is a risk. Buy or lease a new car and you will pay 1-2grand to just get it out the door. You can't really stress over 1000 when it comes to cars. I just spend about 600 bucks to replace the cat and exhaust system, and it was with coupons and all. Shops were quoting 1500-1800.

Also, it is great to live in the South. Where I am there are pretty much no pick a pulls within 3 hours. Getting spare parts is very difficult, and you have to pay crazy shipping charges for anything over a few pounds.

Cars are scrapped early and anything more than 10 years old is a rustbucket . That $1800 truck on CL looks almost new. I keep mine because there is nothing to replace it with here, and in relatively excellent shape for this area. If they even think there is snow coming the roads are sprayed with something that turns into Hydrochloric acid on your frame and metal parts. Most of the repairs on the ex were rust related, if not for rust it is amazingly reliable. I would have to import something if I wanted a second gen.

Another option is trying to sell it, if it runs you could probably get $500 bucks if its in great shape otherwise. Someone may have the skill to recondition it.

 

[firstfordowner202]

What about the differential rebuild kit? Could that be an option?

 

[96eb96]

What about the differential rebuild kit? Could that be an option?

You would need some serious skills to attempt that. That is why many opt for a swap in diff. Labor would be quite expensive. It is definitely very skilled work (e.g. not a brake pad job). Don't want to discourage you, but do some research about rebuilding a diff. YT has many good videos. If you mess it up you will be back to square one (a trashed diff).

 

[SupaSwope]

EricTheCarGuy on YT has a series of videos on him rebuilding a 8.8 diff on a ford. Complete tear down/rebuild. I know you need toy front diff done. Shouldn't be to different.

 

[CDW6212R]

I have to agree with SoNic67. If I had to pay someone to do repairs buying older vehicles would not make sense. Plus I also know how to evaluate the condition of an older vehicle before buying it and have had few surprises and unexpected repairs in the 6 Gen II Explorers/Mountaineers I've purchased in the past 4 years. You should have had some idea that the 20 year old vehicle you bought for $580 was going to need some expensive repairs, when decent ones are selling for $1500-$2000.

Below is an example of something I would be interested in if I were looking for a nice '98...

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/5692153100.html

Nice truck, and did you buy that too? I looked at it and had to call, he sold it already. I was after exactly that except for not being AWD.

 

[koda2000]

Nice truck, and did you buy that too? I looked at it and had to call, he sold it already. I was after exactly that except for not being AWD.

No I did not buy that one, but I must admit it had my "spider senses" twitching for a few moments. I already have 2 Explorer's too many, sigh... It sure was a pretty truck though with relatively few miles and a good asking price. I wonder what the seller let it go for?

 

[CDW6212R]

I gather it had been at $1800 at some time, and showing $1500 now after two months, I'd guess it went for about that. I would have loved to get that back in February when I began looking. I love that color, and my 99 needs a repaint again, so that will be the color I'm sure.

 

[koda2000]

I gather it had been at $1800 at some time, and showing $1500 now after two months, I'd guess it went for about that. I would have loved to get that back in February when I began looking. I love that color, and my 99 needs a repaint again, so that will be the color I'm sure.

I agree, that's a great color. I also really like the Limited's wheels from that year too. The seats look really plush, but I've read where they're not the comfortable. Even at $1800 that truck looks like a bargain. I wonder why it hadn't sold sooner? Maybe just it's age, but in that condition that wouldn't scare me.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those "flat" Limited seats are not very good, unless you are a huge person and the good contoured seats don't fit you. I had to use one in my 99 Limited when the 93 seat hinge broke. They do not hold you in place well in hard corners(I use seat belts BTW).

I have the 98 Limited wheels as extras now, since I bought more of the 99-01 16's I prefer. The center caps are excellent BTW, so strong they will never fall off.

These trucks are fairly old now, they need better care than most people give them. It is very wise to replace all fluids, that alone will fix or prevent a bunch of problems. It's hard to figure out what's wrong with a vehicle, when like the OP here, the maintenance history is unknown. You have to go through everything to make sure the basic items are okay.

It is great to own an older vehicle and have no payments. But they cannot be simply driven until something goes wrong like a newer car. With something kind of new, a symptom will typically point you right to the problem or part. With older cars, leaving fluids, filters, and maintenance items neglected will seriously complicate finding a source of any problem that occurs. Those maintenance things can cause tons of issues, or make them worse or accelerate. If you keep up to date with those things, then any new problem can be diagnosed relatively fast just like a newer vehicle.

 

[koda2000]

Those "flat" Limited seats are not very good, unless you are a huge person and the good contoured seats don't fit you. I had to use one in my 99 Limited when the 93 seat hinge broke. They do not hold you in place well in hard corners(I use seat belts BTW).

I have the 98 Limited wheels as extras now, since I bought more of the 99-01 16's I prefer. The center caps are excellent BTW, so strong they will never fall off.

These trucks are fairly old now, they need better care than most people give them. It is very wise to replace all fluids, that alone will fix or prevent a bunch of problems. It's hard to figure out what's wrong with a vehicle, when like the OP here, the maintenance history is unknown. You have to go through everything to make sure the basic items are okay.

It is great to own an older vehicle and have no payments. But they cannot be simply driven until something goes wrong like a newer car. With something kind of new, a symptom will typically point you right to the problem or part. With older cars, leaving fluids, filters, and maintenance items neglected will seriously complicate finding a source of any problem that occurs. Those maintenance things can cause tons of issues, or make them worse or accelerate. If you keep up to date with those things, then any new problem can be diagnosed relatively fast just like a newer vehicle.

I completely agree. Besides regular maintenance, one thing I do is to never let a new noise go unidentified. I find most major things that will go wrong begin with an unusual noise. In over 50 years of driving I've only been stuck on the side of the road a couple of times and that was due to bad fuel gauges in unfamiliar vehicles.

I figured the issue with the Limited seats was their flatness. I have a set of '97 Limited bucket seats in my '54 F100. They're quite comfortable and have adequate side support.

 

[CDW6212R]

Great look for that truck, well done.

Those 97 Limited seats are the same thing that began in 1993, I thought they went from 93-97. They are almost identical to the rest of the leather 91-01 seats, the basic shape. The Mountaineer got the taller no head rest versions.

 

[firstfordowner202]

Hey guys.. I appreciate all the input you have given. It sucks that its pretty much a lost cause. I will attempt to find something else. Like sonic67 said, Dont buy an old car if you're not willing to invest in it. On a brighter note, I think I will keep it and learn how to work on cars. The good thing is, the engine and trans are in great shape, so maybe all is not lost. Again, I want to thank you guys for your input!

 

[CDW6212R]

If you do look for one of these, hunt the 1998-2001 V8 versions, those are very reliable and virtually the same in option choices etc. A 98 in equal or better shape than an 01 is a better truck, so ignore the year and go for the condition, and options.

 

[koda2000]

If you do look for one of these, hunt the 1998-2001 V8 versions, those are very reliable and virtually the same in option choices etc. A 98 in equal or better shape than an 01 is a better truck, so ignore the year and go for the condition, and options.

And mileage. 200k or less is best. The lower the better. Almost all of my V8's have +/- 200k and I don't see any reason why they wont easily go 300k+ with regular maintenance.

I'm lucky, they don't salt the roads where I live so no rust and Ford's interiors hold up very well (much better than GM's or Chrysler's) to the summer sun. Paint is usually the first to go, but I garage my EB and ST trucks whenever possible. It makes a huge difference. The ones that stay outside get their clear-coats coats and then it starts to peel off. The headlights also turn yellow. The headlights on my garaged trucks are original and still clear.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, the precious obsolete parts are what you worry about if you want to keep one for a long while, after now at near 20 years old.

How are your quarter glass rubber moldings doing? Mine were drying out after 10-15 years, and the 98 I just bought is similar. I recently bought two new ones for this keeper, knowing they are expensive and rare now.