How long did your Servo Bore "O-Ring Fix" last

[a1e]

My understanding from the folks that did my transmission work is that you don't have to replace the entire transmission unless something else in it is hosed...you can have any good shop sleeve the servo bores and do a rebuild for a reasonable cost, and then you don't have to worry about it again.

The servo o-ring fix works...as long as the o-rings fill your elongated bore and continue to do so. O-rings have a limited lifespan, so you'll have to replace them at some point, I'm sure...but I admit that's speculation.

And, as others have mentioned on here, the servos are a royal pain to get to. Be extra careful that you don't damage the heat shield, or that if you do, you replace it - you need it!

I figured I would jump in on these string as the owner of the Company that makes the fix because this covers most topics people consider when using our fix. When ever someone has the true symptoms of worn bores described on our site it is extremely likely our kit will fix it. People think that boring it and sleeving it is a permanent fix and it is not. We have had people put our kit into trannys that have been bored and sleeved because the sleeves have worn out after 70,000 miles. We have also had people 60,0000 miles and up and still going strong on our orings. We have also found you can replace our orings indefinitely and keep on trucking if they do wear out.

Dropping either of the struts on the band has never happened as long as the band is not too loose and if you only take the servos out. We also have the OK to even carefully remove the adjuster bolt to replace it or clean it up if the servos are installed on the opposite side. We do however recommend that it gets removed very slowly to allow the strut to drop onto the case with little impact.

The oblong shape of the bores has no effect on how our kit works also, there is more than enough oring to take up the shape.

So if you have the classic symptoms of worn bores I will give you very-very high odds our kit will fix it.

Andy Wanie
CEO AJ1E Superior Solutions, LLC

 

[imp]

O-ring of the servo bore will resolve one issue; the flare-shifting from 2-3 and 4-5 shifts. What happens is the servos wear down the bore of the case over time, causing the bore to become oblong and allowing fluid to be pushed around the servo during a shift...thus delaying the shift and causing the "flare" sensation.

@JoshMcMadMac
And thus causing more band wear than otherwise? imp

 

[Number Twelve]

@JoshMcMadMac
And thus causing more band wear than otherwise? imp

Obviously, if you work on transmissions.
Starting with the idea that a band and a clutch pack have friction surfaces which make contact with steel:
1) A friction surface not in contact with anything isn't getting worn.
2) A friction surface that is in contact and locked to the steel isn't getting worn.
3) The moment of contact is when the wear happens.
3a) The longer it takes to make that transition from free wheeling to hard lock, the more wear happens.
3b) Anything that slows or softens the activation will allow more spinning before the friction surface locks against the steel.
Capiche?

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

I did mine around 100k miles, I now have 134k miles and no issues. The servo fix was definitely worth it.

 

[imp]

Obviously, if you work on transmissions.
Starting with the idea that a band and a clutch pack have friction surfaces which make contact with steel:
1) A friction surface not in contact with anything isn't getting worn.
2) A friction surface that is in contact and locked to the steel isn't getting worn.
3) The moment of contact is when the wear happens.
3a) The longer it takes to make that transition from free wheeling to hard lock, the more wear happens.
3b) Anything that slows or softens the activation will allow more spinning before the friction surface locks against the steel.
Capiche?

@Number Twelve
Understand, what? Rate of band application, along with a few other variables, like torque, rotational speed, temperature, determines several things: band wear, harshness or mushiness of the shift, transition to the next gear. What point were you trying to make with your post, anyway? imp

 

[Beever10]

I did my original o-ring fix 5 years ago at 180,000 kms along with a broken servo, and replaced the o-rings 3 years ago at about 250,000kms. I now have 290,000kms on the vehicle and it still shifts fine. Obviously, I don't drive it as much as before, but the o-ring fix definitely worked as advertised for me. The vehicle is now 13+ years old with the original tranny... but will probably replace it in a year or so (I say that every year, but it keeps on going!).

 

[Number Twelve]

What point were you trying to make with your post, anyway? imp

You asked:

And thus causing more band wear than otherwise? imp

I answered.

And I think I'm about to get over doing that.

 

[SyberTiger]

My 2002 started having shifting problems at around 80K miles and as I recall the problem was most noticeable from 1-2nd shift. My vehicle now has 155K miles on it and I never did fix the problem but for quite a few years I was thinking about a remanufactured tranny but I just kept driving and driving it but was always easy on the acceleration and when I thought the vehicle didn't shift as quickly as it should would ease up on the accelerator to let the tranny upshift. At around 100K miles I noticed that on the down shift back down to 1st, usually coming to a stop at a red light, I would get a slight "clunk" and that continued up until around 120K miles and it kind of just went away. In the last year or so I've had the occasional "O/D check tranny" error code but usually I wasn't driving far and by the next time I restarted the vehicle the code would go away then not show up for several months later.

After reading this thread and watching the repair video I was thinking that maybe I should give it a shot before jumping on a reman tranny. My only concern is the "clunk" downshift problem I had then went away. I wonder if that's an indication that the O-ring solution is not the right choice for me. I've never changed that tranny fluid. Back when the vehicle had 80K miles on it and started having the shifting problem I took it to a tranny shop to do a tranny fluid flush and refill the shop told me I had severe tranny problems and needed to immediately have them do tranny work or else I would not likely even drive it 10 miles back to my house. The even "produced" a couple of needle bearings they "found" in the tranny pan. The needle bearings looked brand new with no wear and my conclusion it was a staged scene...I don't even know if the tranny contains any needle bearing that just drop out without any sign of the tranny self destructing. I told them to just do the freaking tranny fluid service that I asked for but they refused and said they were afraid new tranny fluid would cause more problems because my tranny got used to running on the old nasty fluid. I told them to close up the tranny, put the fluid back and I'd come pick it up. I've driven 75K miles since that day and have never performed any tranny service because that shop left a bad taste in my mouth and just reaffirmed my overall paranoid attitude that 75% of most shops are ripoff artists.

Anyhow, long story....but I'm curious to know if the O-ring kit would likely fix my problem or should I just throw in the towel and get a reman tranny?

 

[imp]

You asked:

I answered.

And I think I'm about to get over doing that.

@Number Twelve
Maybe we are in disagreement because I misinterpreted your answer as being argumentative. Sorry. imp

 

[Tech By Trade]

My 2002 started having shifting problems at around 80K miles and as I recall the problem was most noticeable from 1-2nd shift. My vehicle now has 155K miles on it and I never did fix the problem but for quite a few years I was thinking about a remanufactured tranny but I just kept driving and driving it but was always easy on the acceleration and when I thought the vehicle didn't shift as quickly as it should would ease up on the accelerator to let the tranny upshift. At around 100K miles I noticed that on the down shift back down to 1st, usually coming to a stop at a red light, I would get a slight "clunk" and that continued up until around 120K miles and it kind of just went away. In the last year or so I've had the occasional "O/D check tranny" error code but usually I wasn't driving far and by the next time I restarted the vehicle the code would go away then not show up for several months later.

After reading this thread and watching the repair video I was thinking that maybe I should give it a shot before jumping on a reman tranny. My only concern is the "clunk" downshift problem I had then went away. I wonder if that's an indication that the O-ring solution is not the right choice for me. I've never changed that tranny fluid. Back when the vehicle had 80K miles on it and started having the shifting problem I took it to a tranny shop to do a tranny fluid flush and refill the shop told me I had severe tranny problems and needed to immediately have them do tranny work or else I would not likely even drive it 10 miles back to my house. The even "produced" a couple of needle bearings they "found" in the tranny pan. The needle bearings looked brand new with no wear and my conclusion it was a staged scene...I don't even know if the tranny contains any needle bearing that just drop out without any sign of the tranny self destructing. I told them to just do the freaking tranny fluid service that I asked for but they refused and said they were afraid new tranny fluid would cause more problems because my tranny got used to running on the old nasty fluid. I told them to close up the tranny, put the fluid back and I'd come pick it up. I've driven 75K miles since that day and have never performed any tranny service because that shop left a bad taste in my mouth and just reaffirmed my overall paranoid attitude that 75% of most shops are ripoff artists.

Anyhow, long story....but I'm curious to know if the O-ring kit would likely fix my problem or should I just throw in the towel and get a reman tranny?

Wont work for you, you have the v8 which has a different transmission. There is actualy a software upgrade that will fix the downshift clunk in your transmission. This is only for the V6.

 

[SyberTiger]

Wont work for you, you have the v8 which has a different transmission. There is actualy a software upgrade that will fix the downshift clunk in your transmission. This is only for the V6.

THIS IS THE VIDEO I was referring to. The video covers the 5R55W/S/N/E...I have the 5R55S. I'm unaware what the V6 versus V8 makes the O-ring solution viable or not. Please explain. Thanks.

 

[Tech By Trade]

THIS IS THE VIDEO I was referring to. The video covers the 5R55W/S/N/E...I have the 5R55S. I'm unaware what the V6 versus V8 makes the O-ring solution viable or not. Please explain. Thanks.

Dont you have the 6R 6 speed transmission or was that only in the next gen?

I guess you do have the weaker transmission in that year. Odds are you need a rebuild. Flush is a horrible idea on these things, as it will push all the garbage back into the valves and burn out the transmission in 10 miles like the shop said. You could try dropping the pan and putting in Mercon V only and a filter. Did the shop use mercon V? If not that could be your problem. Also a band adjustment couldn't hurt. Its a pretty simple procedure.

 

[Hugh Janus]

My 2002 started having shifting problems at around 80K miles and as I recall the problem was most noticeable from 1-2nd shift. My vehicle now has 155K miles on it and I never did fix the problem but for quite a few years I was thinking about a remanufactured tranny but I just kept driving and driving it but was always easy on the acceleration and when I thought the vehicle didn't shift as quickly as it should would ease up on the accelerator to let the tranny upshift. At around 100K miles I noticed that on the down shift back down to 1st, usually coming to a stop at a red light, I would get a slight "clunk" and that continued up until around 120K miles and it kind of just went away. In the last year or so I've had the occasional "O/D check tranny" error code but usually I wasn't driving far and by the next time I restarted the vehicle the code would go away then not show up for several months later.

After reading this thread and watching the repair video I was thinking that maybe I should give it a shot before jumping on a reman tranny. My only concern is the "clunk" downshift problem I had then went away. I wonder if that's an indication that the O-ring solution is not the right choice for me. I've never changed that tranny fluid. Back when the vehicle had 80K miles on it and started having the shifting problem I took it to a tranny shop to do a tranny fluid flush and refill the shop told me I had severe tranny problems and needed to immediately have them do tranny work or else I would not likely even drive it 10 miles back to my house. The even "produced" a couple of needle bearings they "found" in the tranny pan. The needle bearings looked brand new with no wear and my conclusion it was a staged scene...I don't even know if the tranny contains any needle bearing that just drop out without any sign of the tranny self destructing. I told them to just do the freaking tranny fluid service that I asked for but they refused and said they were afraid new tranny fluid would cause more problems because my tranny got used to running on the old nasty fluid. I told them to close up the tranny, put the fluid back and I'd come pick it up. I've driven 75K miles since that day and have never performed any tranny service because that shop left a bad taste in my mouth and just reaffirmed my overall paranoid attitude that 75% of most shops are ripoff artists.

Anyhow, long story....but I'm curious to know if the O-ring kit would likely fix my problem or should I just throw in the towel and get a reman tranny?

The servo bore kit will fix your problem. The $235 you spend for the kit and 1 hour work will seem like nothing compared to the $1800 + major work of swapping a tranny. I have a kit to install on a 2002 as soon as I get to it.

 

[SyberTiger]

The servo bore kit will fix your problem. The $235 you spend for the kit and 1 hour work will seem like nothing compared to the $1800 + major work of swapping a tranny. I have a kit to install on a 2002 as soon as I get to it.

I think I'm gonna go for it. I'm pondering if I should drop the pan and take a looksie or just go for it then do a fluid change and adjust the bands.

 

[Hugh Janus]

I think I'm gonna go for it. I'm pondering if I should drop the pan and take a looksie or just go for it then do a fluid change and adjust the bands.

Definitely drop the pan and change oil/filter. Inspect for major damage. I would do this before ordering the kit.

 

[SyberTiger]

Definitely drop the pan and change oil/filter. Inspect for major damage. I would do this before ordering the kit.

There you go making too much sense again...you're right, I'll do that first.

 

[jd4242]

Ill add i did servos first and it didnt fix my issues,i drill holes to get the rings out fyi.. .i then did new solenoids and a custom built valve body by "central valve bodies ""..i had them do a shift kit,cooler mod,sonnax valves,increased pressure spings,end plugs and sonnax new "increased boost valve"..also adjusted the bands..worked great and has smooth lighting fast shifts,costed me $275 delivered..(i highly suggest them build the same valve body if you need a replacement. .they will know what your talking about if you mention me and the increased boost valves..)

2 weeks later my converter went out and i added a deep pan with dipstick.(if you got money to blow i suggest this pan also) i went with a 1800 stall converter from PATC..takes a alignment tool to replace the converter. .(i also highly suggest this converter,it feels just like stock but makes more tq and can hold 500hp)

Im VERY happy with the trans now..it pulls very very hard and shifts flawlessly. .i have a SCT that im going to adjust shift points now also..o also i have some mods on my motor and its the 4.6 DOHC 2 wheel drive aviator. .

i have a level 10 kit i bought just in case it wasnt the converter,im going to install it after i rebuild my motor and put the vortech on.

Pics for motivation. .lol

Plenty of clearance. .

 

[Car-guy]

I did mine at 74,000 miles about 2 years ago, now have 100,000 + miles and the tranny works perfectly. This is a no brainer fix!

Jim
02 Mountaineer AWD V6

 

[JethroBodine]

I did mine at 206k 2-3 years ago. Now I'm at 254k.

I'm considering trying the Servo-Bore O-Ring fix on my 5R55 on my 2002 XLS 4.4.

Reading a number of threads, and have gotten a sense that the O-Ring fix may only work about 50% of the time, and when it does,.......that it may only be a temporary fix.

Any feedback on this?

Brian

O

 

[JethroBodine]

I’m up to 272,000 mi. O-ring fix has lasted 65,000 mi so far. Only did one if the servos. Other things have started to go wrong. Looking at pulling a junkyard trans. Will transfer servo to “new” trans before install.