'98 XLT Mystery Electrical Problems - Brakes, Windows, Cruise, Locks | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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'98 XLT Mystery Electrical Problems - Brakes, Windows, Cruise, Locks

Joined
January 26, 2017
Messages
12
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1
City, State
Minneapolis, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer XLT
Hey everyone! I've been driving this bad boy for 2 years now and it's always had electrical problems of some sort. I will list the symptoms first and after that I will list what I've tried to do about them. None of my solutions worked, so if anyone has any ideas I would be eternally grateful!

Brakes:
20 amp Fuse #13 in the cab Blows whenever I replace it, even when the brake is not pressed. However, the Running, Reverse, and License Plate lights work fine. When I press the brakes, if the fuse hasn't blown already, it blows after the interior lights dim.

I replaced the 6 Bulbs in the bottom lights and tried seeing if it was the bulb connectors grounding out by disconnecting all of them but the fuse kept blowing.

I removed the connector to the high mount LED brake light and yet the fuse kept blowing.

I replaced the Brake Sensor and the Fuse still blew.

So now I'm up **** creek on the brake circuit, does anyone have any clue as to where the circuit might be grounding?

Windows:
The rear passenger side window doesn't go down through use of any switch in the vehicle.

I haven't really done anything about this but I think by fixing other electrical problems this might be resolved because I think this is related to the locks and whatever is keeping them from working.

Power Locks:
They have never worked, from any switch on the vehicle. No idea where to go on this. I've checked the connector in the driver door but everything seemed fine. What else should I check?

Cruise Control:
The "Speed Cont" icon blinks randomly in the dash and doesn't turn on.

I've replaced the Brake Pressure switch in the engine bay, beyond that I've not sought out solutions.

Any ideas guys? This truck is dear to me and I normally do the fixing myself. If I make this bad boy perfect again I'll be so grateful!

Thanks!
 



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Brake Fuse:
If the fuse keeps blowing there is a short somewhere in the circuit. You've said, the fuse blows even if you haven't stepped on the brake pedal, so apparently it's not the brake lights that are causing the fuse to blow. You also mentioned that your cruise control doesn't work. W/out referring to a wiring diagram, the only other thing that is on the brake circuit is the cruise control deactivation. Have you tried leaving the deactivation switch disconnected to see if the fuse still blows? The problem might also be a short in the cruise control servo. Try unplugging it also.

You used to be able to see free wiring diagrams here, but they keep changing the userid and/or password. Forum member bobflood usually knows the latest login.

http://search.ebscohost.com/

Rear passenger window:
It could be the window motor is bad, or it could be a broken wire in the driver's door jam wire bundle, which is fairly common. All the windows work through the driver's master switch, so a broken power or ground wire in the bundle will stop a window from working. The easiest way to check the wires in the bundle is to remove the driver's door, which is very easily done. If you want to check the motor, remove the interior door trim panel and find the plug/connector with the red and yellow wires leading to the motor. Apply 12V power and ground to the red and yellow wires. One way will make the motor go UP and the other way DOWN. Doing this will eliminate the window motor from the problem.

Power Locks:
If the doors will not lock or unlock using a remote, switch or door keypad, that's strange. Usually they tend to lock or unlock, but will not do both. There are 2 separate relays located near the RAP module in the jack area that control locking and unlocking. The associate wires are pink and a pink with green tracer IIRC. It might be a RAP module issue if nothing makes the doors lock or unlock. Is your Expl equipped a remote FOB or numeric door key pad?
 






I will try disconnecting the Cruise Control switch and see if that works. I'm not expecting it because I replaced that with a new module a year ago. Where is the servo?

Thanks!
 






Check under the rear bumper for a trailer hitch harness and disconnect it. Retry fuse.

I had one of those add on light modules for a trailer hitch on a ranger and it went bad causing lighting issues and abnormal things unrelated to happen.
 






Check under the rear bumper for a trailer hitch harness and disconnect it. Retry fuse.

I had one of those add on light modules for a trailer hitch on a ranger and it went bad causing lighting issues and abnormal things unrelated to happen.

I tried that one already, removed the wires and capped the connector. Fuse still blows.
 






Unfortunately there is no connectors the brake/stop light + feed. It might be worth cutting the signal wire somewhere in the cargo area to see if it's in the front half or back half of the truck. This will be a fun one to find.
 






Unfortunately there is no connectors the brake/stop light + feed. It might be worth cutting the signal wire somewhere in the cargo area to see if it's in the front half or back half of the truck. This will be a fun one to find.

There's no power going to the brake lights if no body's stepping on the brake pedal, yet the OP says the fuse still blows. I think the "speed cont" light blinking randomly is very suspicious.
 






I will try disconnecting the Cruise Control switch and see if that works. I'm not expecting it because I replaced that with a new module a year ago. Where is the servo?

Thanks!

The cc servo is the actual cc motor and cable. It's located under the hood on the edge of the passenger side fender.
 






I know where the servo is now, Good ol youtube provides! I'll be checking it out after work today.
 






I know where the servo is now, Good ol youtube provides! I'll be checking it out after work today.

I had another thought, though I'm not sure that it would have anything to do with you blowing fuses. My thought was that perhaps the ABS system is related somehow, but I'm not sure how it would be.
 






Is that in the rear passenger side trunk area? I opened the back storage cubby with the net and it looked bone dry with no burn marks from what I could see. With that said it might be worth another look. The sealing on the winder above that is bad and it leaks water when it rains.
 






Is that in the rear passenger side trunk area? I opened the back storage cubby with the net and it looked bone dry with no burn marks from what I could see. With that said it might be worth another look. The sealing on the winder above that is bad and it leaks water when it rains.

No it's the jack compartment located on the opposite (driver's) side. If you remove the cover and look forward of the jack compartment you can just see it. To gain good access you really need to remove the entire cargo trim panel on that side. IDK that you'll be able to determine anything by just looking at it. In earlier years the RAP module actually had an antenna on it for the remote key FOB, later Ford did away with the antenna.

Often what happens with the rear cargo area side windows is that the 10 mm bolts (nuts?) that hold the glass in place loosen up and cause water to leak in. I had this happening on two of my trucks. Sometimes you can just snug the bolts/nuts down and the leak will stop, sometimes you have to reseal the glass.
 






UPDATE!

I have checked the Cruise Control Relay, (PN: CCR 12) on the Master Cylinder and disconnected it and placed a new fuse and it worked! When I connected it again the fuse blew! I picked up a new part and hopefully this will fix the problem. Below is the part in question! Most of you might recognize this part. :p

The strange part is I replaced this in February of 2015!
4sFlsfc.jpg
 












If a dealer didn't install your previously replaced SCDS switch, check the recall link, it may be free. If not too late, don't open the new switch.
Cruise Control not working! | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

The SCDS causes fires even when parked with the engine off. Hence the "Exploder" nickname. Or was it under inflated Firestone tires?
Why Were They Called EXPLODERS? | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

I replaced it myself 2 years ago to the black switch. However, since then it seems to have gone bad.... is that to be expected? I don't know, but either way my cruise control didn't work after I replaced it. Now here I am replacing it again.
 


















I wouldn't just start replacing parts (waste of money and probably time). Better to disconnect things and see if you can isolate what's causing the short, which is blowing the fuse. Diagnosing electrical problems is time consuming, but you usually eventually figure out it's something simple and easy to fix. As the previous owner added the cruise control he probably managed to pinch a wire someone, or installed bad JY parts. Do you have tilt wheel?
 






Yes, the wheel does tilt. The fuse problem seems to have been resolved after the replacement of the Cruise Control Switch. Cruise control still doesn't work however.
 



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Yes, the wheel does tilt. The fuse problem seems to have been resolved after the replacement of the Cruise Control Switch. Cruise control still doesn't work however.
Update! It turned out to be a bad Cruise control switch on the steering wheel!
 






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