03 lincoln aviator

[jd4242]

When i bought this truck it had no pads left at all,they were all the way down to bare metal and had started to grind into the rotors...i only replaced the pads at the time because i didnt want to drop big money on rotors and didnt want to buy stock replacements..

Well i finally got new rotors..got power stops,got them from rockauto. .they sent me the wrong front rotors so had to send them back and they sent me the right ones..

Today i put them on, i completely flushed the system and cycled the abs pump also..the fluid was really dirty..flushing it made a HUGE HUGE difference. .i highly recommend it if you haven't done it..

This truck has probably some of the best brakes ive driven, besides the ranger.

All else has been good,still smokes and uses a qt a week!!

Also cut the rear resonator off and put a tip on out the side instead of the rear..sounds pretty good..

 

[dgr6853]

My rear resonator was taken off before I bought the car. What brake pads did you use? I went with the Akebono ProAct...no sure if I like them. Under full tilt they stop like crazy but they don't seem to have a lot of initial bite.

 

[jd4242]

So got around to doing my electric fan seap but turns out the motor was bad so had to order a new motor from advance,it will be here tomorrow. .so not totally done yet..ill post some more pictures tomorrow. .

I started with a 90s thunderbird supercharged radiator fan,this is same fan motor as the Taurus fans but thats were the similarities end..the thunderbird fan has a smaller shroud and different blade design to move more air..

Here it is 90 tbird supercharged fan.

Next i removed the radiator assembly..

This is when i noticed the stock electric fan that helps out when the AC is on has the same 3 bolts and overall blade size as my tbird fan,so i pulled it apart hoping the tbird fan and blades would fit..

The hole for the motor needed to be sanded slightly to fit over the tbird fan but it does fit..the tbird is thicker so needs to be spaced back slightly where the 3 bolts attach the motor,i made 3/4" spacers and it bolted all up..

The stock fan shroud sits 1.5" off the radiator and has a groove around the shroud...i took and got 1.5" square foam for insulating window units and ran it around the complete shroud sealing the gap between the shroud and radiator. .ill get pictures tomorrow of this and the spacers..

But here it is..a stock Aviator AC fan shroud with a 90 SC tbird fan motor and blades installed in it..looks completely stock and if you didnt know any better you would think its still the low cfm AC fan but its not..haha its a 4,000ish cfm tbird fan..it should cover enough of the radiator and pull plenty cfms to keep the aviator cool

Lastly i used a flexalite 33504 controller..its a soft start and runs a 60% at set temperature. .10* above set temperature it goes to 100% power and runs up to 30 sec after shutoff..i ran the old power for the stock fan to the controller for the AC over ride kick on..i used a 50 amp fuse and 8 gauge wire soldering all connections,using double wall water resistant heat shrink.i mounted it right next to battery and behind light..ill take a picture of it mounted tomorrow also..

I haven't tested the system yet as the fan motor was bad but i sure hope it works well,i have not had luck with any type of controllers..my ranger uses a summit switch and a bosch 75amp relay with same fan and has been working flawlessly for years..this fan moves some serious air

 

[2000StreetRod]

Very nice installation! I'll be interested in how everything works out with the fan controller. Did you reinstall the original Aviator mechanical fan shroud?

 

[jd4242]

Very nice installation! I'll be interested in how everything works out with the fan controller. Did you reinstall the original Aviator mechanical fan shroud?

I did not,dont really see a need for it.if the fan sat farther back and in line with the mechanical fan opening and was the same size, where it could pull air from the entire shroud then i would've but the way its going to pull air is just directly underneath the fan so didnt think there is a point to the mechanical shroud

 

[jd4242]

Well got it all done..

Big problem though, it kicked on soft and ran at 60% and would not cut off even when turned the key off,even the led that comes on saying the fan is hot turned off but the fan would not cut back off..then it began to smoke BAD so i pulled the fuse and double checked all the wiring..its definitely wired right..summit is sending me a new controller. .

Also the stock electric fan also doesnt kick on every time the compressor kicks on..

 

[dgr6853]

Well got it all done..

Big problem though, it kicked on soft and ran at 60% and would not cut off even when turned the key off,even the led that comes on saying the fan is hot turned off but the fan would not cut back off..then it began to smoke BAD so i pulled the fuse and double checked all the wiring..its definitely wired right..summit is sending me a new controller. .

Also the stock electric fan also doesnt kick on every time the compressor kicks on..

Neither does mine. But the ECU will turn it on and off at 210 and then back off at 199. Well. That's what mine does.

 

[jd4242]

Replaced the controller and it seems to be working fine now..i didnt hook the ac wire up though. .was going to use the stock fan power wire but it doesnt kick on unless the trucks over heating..

also tried to get power from the high pressure switch but cant figure it out..one wire reads 0.04 with the compressor runing and 0.03 with it off..the other wire reads 13v with the compressor off and 0.03 with it running..

I also put the probe sensor next to the bottom hose where cool water enters the engine..the electric fan should control the water temp inside the radiator not the water temp in the engine..the tstat controls the engine water temp..reading the water temp coming outa the engine or in the engine should constantly be whatever the tstat is made to keep the motors water temp at..this can cause your fan to run too long or when its not even needed..if its reading 195* but the radiator water entering the motor is 150* there is no point for the fan to run..

Now problem is reading the radiator water temp and the water entering engine . .my ranger i used a 175* on temp switch but this controller is adjustable and you have no way of knowing what temp its reading..you only can look at the dash gauge or read engine temp with a hand held. .this is what i did..

i have a 180* tstat so when my motor water temp started to get up to 180*ish and was continuing to climb,i set the fans to come on,then adjusted it slightly less..im guessing its a turn on around 170*ish at 60% then 100% around 180*ish and off at 160*..

With it set to this it doesnt kick on at all with this 70* ambient and moving..at idle it kicks on to 60% after about 3mins and right back off as soon as you begin to move again..hasnt had to go 100% yet but sure it will when it gets into the 90* here..engine temps has stayed around 190*ish the whole time,moving or at idle..

I haven't done really any city driving but definitely a slight slight slight power increase and can hear the motor/exhaust alot more now..but on the highway i was seeing around 27ish mpg now..id see high of 30ish and low of 26ish but after some miles its pretty steady around 27ish..i was seeing an average of 23ish mpg highway before..

Id say i got an average of 13.8mpg city with me not being easy..seen as high as 16 mpg with me not giving it the beans all the time..shall see what the city mpg does after this tank,i typically drive all city

For now im happy with it,just see how long this controller last..im carring a 8g jumper wire with me incase i need to jump the fan directly to power if it burns up again

 

[jd4242]

Trucks been running good for as bad as its smoking..definitely picked up some power and mpg. .also warms up much faster which is nice on these cold days.

My boss quit at my new job so i got promoted. .came with a good pay increase. I also have been working OT for last couple weeks and doesnt seem to be slowing down for next 6 months.great news for me..

So with that said my budget has changed as well as my plans for this truck..

Came across this deal...

Cant tell from the picture but its a forged 5.0 stroker kit..was used and the guy went to a big bore stroker..i paid $1,190 for it..came with new rings and bearings and has been BALANCED..im pretty excited. .i plan to get a set of custom grind cams and sending the heads off to livernois to get ported..also switching to a Mach1 intake setup..ill be picking up a teksid block here soon.

Plan to turn the boost up to the max for the V1 unit i got..down the road ill end up going to a newer bigger vortech. .

Stay tuned

 

[2000StreetRod]

Looks like quite a bargain to me. Does the V1 unit require elimination of the crossover tube? I've been searching for a suitable crossover delete configuration but haven't found anything I like yet that uses commercially available products. MMR's cylinder head water fittings are available in -12 or -16 AN outlets.

I prefer the -16 AN but haven't found a compatible Y or Tee with a 1.5 inch dia. outlet that will mate with an inline thermostat.

 

[jd4242]

Looks like quite a bargain to me. Does the V1 unit require elimination of the crossover tube? I've been searching for a suitable crossover delete configuration but haven't found anything I like yet that uses commercially available products. MMR's cylinder head water fittings are available in -12 or -16 AN outlets.
View attachment 96054
I prefer the -16 AN but haven't found a compatible Y or Tee with a 1.5 inch dia. outlet that will mate with an inline thermostat.

With the aviator crossover i think it will clear..the line coming off the back of the water pump i think needs to be moved..

But vortech makes a different crossover kit for the mustangs if mine dont work

 

[CDW6212R]

Good bargain there for what sounds like just what you wanted. Aim at the transmission too for the added boost. I hope there are some good upgrades you can make use of.

 

[jd4242]

Good bargain there for what sounds like just what you wanted. Aim at the transmission too for the added boost. I hope there are some good upgrades you can make use of.

Honestly i was a week away from buying a cast crank,boss rods and wiseco pistons. .that shouldve covered me to 500 hp but that total was right at $1,200 not including balancing. .this saved me some money,everything is forged and balanced already. .the cams and heads i was doing either way..

The trans ive put some money into already if you remember(stall converter,custom build valve body,new solenoids,Oring servos and that deep pan). .i also have a "level 10" kit for it but just waiting for the belts and clutches to wear out..i still need the hardened input shaft though ..the level 10 kit is spose to be good for about 700ish hp,about what i want in the end

 

[jd4242]

This is the kit except he got diamond pistons in a .030 size with it and its been balanced. .he paid extra for them in that size..so for $1,190 i think i stole it,just the crank alone is worth that..

http://www.modmaxracing.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=EAG14404

 

[2000StreetRod]

Have you calculated the compression ratio with those pistons and the overbore and stroke? The reason I substituted JE pistons for the ones in my Eagle kit was to achieve a target 9.5:1 compression ratio. I was looking for decent performance with no boost but still compatible with a possible future mild boost.

 

[jd4242]

Have you calculated the compression ratio with those pistons and the overbore and stroke? The reason I substituted JE pistons for the ones in my Eagle kit was to achieve a target 9.5:1 compression ratio. I was looking for decent performance with no boost but still compatible with a possible future mild boost.

Yes 9.2 is what i was told but gonna have my machinist double check..i honestly wanted to be much higher,more towards 10.5 i may have the heads shaved depending on the cam specs and amount of valve relief these have.

Ps i have a set of 98 cobra cams for sell

 

[2000StreetRod]

I suspect your forged crank has an 8 bolt flange so you'll be looking for a new flexplate like I will be soon.

 

[jd4242]

I suspect your forged crank has an 8 bolt flange so you'll be looking for a new flexplate like I will be soon.

Yes sir..was hoping you would figure that out first..lol

 

[CDW6212R]

For any decent boost you should stay under 10:1, that 9.5 range is pushing it for boost over say 12psi.

 

[jd4242]

For any decent boost you should stay under 10:1, that 9.5 range is pushing it for boost over say 12psi.

Thats not true anymore..many many of 4.6 dohc mustangs are running flat top pushing close to 11:1 and tons of boost..fuel choice and tune makes a huge difference. .low compression and high boost is easier to tune but you give up alot of power down low and when not in boost especially with a centrifugal blower

My ranger runs around 12:1,12psi boost and nitrous with 23* of timing ..but runs on E50