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My new 347

Teaser pic. Should ship today.
More to come when I get my hands on it.

Where's that hard-on Smilie? :eek:

Professionally built stock bottom end by Ford Strokers 28oz imbalance crank
Wiseco pistons, shooting for around 9.6 to 1 comp.
gt40p heads ported (by Thumper) with 1.94/1.54 SS undercut valves and upgraded springs. Intake ports measured 140cc
Custom cam designed with my rear mount turbo in mind

28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth
TCS Torque converter shooting for 2400 (1800 stock) stall. Single over-sized clutch for lockup to try to get that turbo spooling, and weight moving.
Trick Flow Track Heat intake
Scorpion Endurance Series Rocker Arms SCC-SCP3021BL
Rocker Arm Channel Kit M-6588-A50
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kit M-6529-A302
Head Dowels TFS-51400420
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters 851-16
Pushrod Length Checker TFS-9000
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits M-6529-A302
water pump reverse rotation GMB-125-1960
Oil Pump Melling M68
ARP Head Studs @ 80lbs w moly
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kits 1 54-7904
ARP High Flexplate Bolt Kits 100-2901
PCV Valve EV127A
push rods: Chromoly, 5/16 in. Diameter, 6.250 in. Length, Ball/Ball Ends Comp Cams CCA-8400-16

gaskets:
header gasket remflex 3028 or Earls Pressure Master 29D03AERL
oil pan gasket Fel-Pro OS34508R
Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1
lower intake: Fel-Pro FEL-1250s3
Oil Pan Gasket FEL-OS13260T
Bolt O ring oil filter adapter FOTZ6749B
Block O ring oil filter adapter F6TZ6L621AA edit: it was for too large of a circle. I had to cut it back and use ultrablack to ensure a seal.

Crank bearings....Very sad story on my new motor
695-MS590HX x 1 MAIN BEARING SET Standard Size
695-CB634P20 x 8 CONNECTING ROD BEARING 20 thou undersized for cut crank :(
edit...New cam synchro gear needed. Shaft size .531 Use a steel gear

edit:
moved to Twisted Wedge fac 170 heads
Pushrods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7"
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers
Custom FTI cam
Morel link bar lifters
rollmaster timing set
Fel-Pro 1133SD4 MLS head gaskets

Strategy is REAC4A2 for Tuning

Siemens Deka 63lbs/hr EV6 Injector Part #108191
Aeromotive 340 Fuel Pump, part #11542

347 at Ford Strokers.jpg
 



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Thanks Tim.
 






@Dono ,

With all of the other trials and tribulations you have gone through with this project this is a mere minor obstacle.

Look how far you have come with getting it right!

Chris
 












May it be warm and dry when you do the swap.
I am so sorry you are having to replace the headers that you already bought and installed.
I hope you can find some kind of enjoyment on working on your truck, even though it is not what your were planning on working on.

I usually like spending time in my garage working on things, it is one of my happy places and so is the race track.
When it is cold out I do tend to stay inside and put garage projects off if possible.
Not always possible though and that's why I spent a past new years eve pulling a transmission out.
May the cold weather only last a short time this winter.
 






This is all positive.
I would always hear a tick when accelerating, but couldn't find a leak. I had kinda decided it must be lifters and cam.
I was still struggling with an exhaust smell in my cabin way more than I should, and thought it was being sucked in from the back.
Yesterday I was actually kinda happy to find the leak. Even the ceramic spark plug boot is dark from exhaust, and just sticking my head close to the wheel well I could smell strong exhaust. Hopefully this is 90% of the smell I am getting.
Its a win that I don't have to wait 6 months for a set of headers to be made.
In the mean time, my truck is completely drive-able, although I was starting to notice more and more all the vehicles wanting to race me. I guess it's that throaty exhaust leak making peoples adrenaline race thru their veins. lol
And, no, I don't race them. The power really hits at 3000rpm, and its not safe to step hard on the gas and stay in it (Winter, and winter tires). I tried once entering the highway when it looked dry, and I was all over the road.
Its a win for me that the headers will ship Monday. I'm hoping they hit the border depot by Friday so I can shoot across the border and pick them up (Its way cheaper than paying all fed-ex's border clearing fee's to get them in to Canada). I'll only do the one header, and the motor does not have to be lifted to get the drivers side in.

Quick update on the motor. Oil stays pretty clean looking. Coolant stays at a constant level. Motor is great.

I also enjoy working on my truck once I get out there and started. Its just getting started I don't like. Music, 220v heater, lots of light, and I'm good to go!
 






...

I also enjoy working on my truck once I get out there and started. Its just getting started I don't like. Music, 220v heater, lots of light, and I'm good to go!

That's my rub too, motivation. We're in the teens tonight, and I have to get a lot done soon. I bought a natural gas heater last year that I meant to mount on the wall, after extending the lines under the house. Maybe later.
 






Maybe later.
Ok, that was funny.

I do wish you had gotten to the stage of bigger log style headers before I hit this point though. I'd have much rather have had an option of bigger tubes.
 






Ok, that was funny.

I do wish you had gotten to the stage of bigger log style headers before I hit this point though. I'd have much rather have had an option of bigger tubes.

Sorry, me too. I'm juggling my dad's estate issues with my work truck, and now the mail being about two hours longer per day. I've got to get my old Ranchero out of my dad's yard, which means selling a 91 Explorer, putting front suspension back in my Mercury, and next destroy my small outdoor shed and move my dad's old big shed to my house. Selling my dad's car and the house is last before settling the assets. My dad's Cadillac has had an engine light for two years, and the dealer after three attempts(plus various parts), they said it needs a gas tank(for a sensor that is not producing an expected signal). I think they broke the sensor at some point, and since it's not available, the cost is $1800 for a new tank installed. I'm going to yank the tank myself when I get time, then clean it up and sell it. That's my short primary to do list, and making time is the tough part.
 






you wouldnt say that if you saw the room he has to work with getting the headers out and back in lol

Sorry,

Simply referencing the fact that I have watched this poor man pull this entire engine out with your help, what? Twice now?

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Chris
 






I was all over the road.

remember, if your in control, you're not having fun :D

Twice now?

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

not going there......

and to this day when ever i see a notification that don has made on his thread, i think the worst, and start planing a day that i can help him if he wants/needs it
 






That's a good friend.:thumbsup:
 






ok, so on removal of the old headers, I found the intermediate gasket was blown right out, along with the crack in the header.
Its a long process as my upper intake manifold has to come off also to make room.

I was hung over as $**** doing this last weekend from too much xmas cheer and it was a tough day. it was even tougher when I started the truck after installing the new header and had an exhaust leak. I needed to grind some of that intermediate pipe flange connection down so it wasn't pushing against the head and not allowing a good seal at the exhaust ports on the bottom.
Well, at least now I know that the upper intake has to come off and to not waste any time trying to get the header out until that's done.

I finished re-doing the job again yesterday. No leaks this time. I had to take that intermediate header pipe connection off to re-align that one pipe connection to the head. And to no ones surprise, the gasket came apart a little bit. I used 4pointslows favorite rtv (ultracopper) with the gasket when I installed that pipe. I made the intermediate pipe connection on a nice flat surface (Kitchen table) so I could install the two piece header as one piece. Then, I undid the 3 bolts holding the air conditioning bracket (pushing the air conditioning pump forward) so I could make room to install the completed header. This makes the completed drivers side header drop in really easily. There really is no reason for that extra troublesome header flange as its so easy to install the completed header as one piece. I sure hope the rtv holds with the gasket.

I think I will ask about possible header customization using one complete header flange, and do away with that intermediate pipe connection. There's no need for that troublesome 2 piece header design.

No more exhaust leaks. My truck is much quieter. I think that the intermediate gasket had actually been leaking for a very long time, and I just didn't know it. Every time the motor came out, I never did take the header apart to inspect. I obviously should have. I bet that I won't have that exhaust smell in the cabin now (At least I sure hope not).

I was going to tackle the cold air inlet piping, but its just way to cold. That makes being on the ground in the garage way to uncomfortable. It can wait for warmer weather.
 






I was hung over as $**** doing this last weekend from too much xmas cheer and it was a tough day.

And what's wrong with that?

Had a good time?

It's the holidays and you have probably busted your ass all year at work with your regular job like we all have.

You deserve a break.
 






And what's wrong with that?

normally his truck makes him want to drink after he has had to work on it, not before. he did it backwards
 






Glad you got it done, and may warmer weather come sooner than later!
 






Dono's truck sounds like my wife and kids....
 






Glad you got something done you wanted to. Enjoy the holidays for a while, drink some more.
 






Ok, I'm at a bit of a cross roads here.
egr or no egr?

1. I have a feeling my egr is leaking. That's the only reason Don Lasota can think of that I can't add timing without detonation.
Also, I'm seeing some random misfires, and its not plugs or wires.

My options are to just replace the egr valve and control solenoid, and see if that takes care of it, or block it off and turn it off in the tune.

Blocking egr off opens me to the possibility of moving to a bigger inside diameter elbow rather than the factory restrictive elbow.

Probably the best thing to do would be to make a block off plate and find a cap for the egr bung on the header and test. Then I could make the decision of what to do after testing? I really wonder what a less restrictive elbow would do for me once I get my inlet piping size upgraded.

But then, egr is supposed to really help emissions and allow advanced timing at cruise, but......exhaust gasses do tend to gum up intake valves. ugh.

decisions, decisions......
 



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I made a block off for the egr. If you want it, let me know. Also if you want a larger elbow, I can make one for you as well. Even if you decide to use the egr, I can make one up for you.
 






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