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Bare wiring

07EddyB

Explorer Addict
Joined
November 18, 2011
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City, State
Bowling Green, KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Ford Explorer 4.6 V8
I've seen a lot of posts on here about cracked insulation on the wiring on Ex's. I've taken it to heart and inspected quite a bit of my wiring - and it looks good. I'm stumped because I've seen it enough to think it's an issue but my 11 year old vehicle doesn't seem to be affected. Does it only affect the V6 engines?
That wouldn't make sense unless they use different wiring suppliers for the two engines. Anyone with a V8 have this issue? There has to be a common thread here on the wiring failures.
 



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I believe the V8 runs a bit cooler than the V6.
 






I had the bare wire problem at the MAF sensor connector, taped them up, but the green wire was hanging by a thread, I am sure there were less than half of the strands of wire connected. Taped all the wires up, did a rush job because it was freezing out. CEL is back on and car is running crappy again. I am thinking that bad wire is casing problems. I wish I just spent the extra few minutes and fixed that wire a little better.
 






I had the bare wire problem at the MAF sensor connector, taped them up, but the green wire was hanging by a thread, I am sure there were less than half of the strands of wire connected. Taped all the wires up, did a rush job because it was freezing out. CEL is back on and car is running crappy again. I am thinking that bad wire is casing problems. I wish I just spent the extra few minutes and fixed that wire a little better.

Did you disconnect the battery and let the computer reset after your wiring repair?
 






Did you disconnect the battery and let the computer reset after your wiring repair?
i did not disconnect the battery, i did clear codes with my cheapo harbor freight scanner. does the MAF have a fuse?
 






Don't know about a MAF fuse.
Clearing codes with a ODB2 scanner is not the same as allowing the computer to reset. This entails disconnecting both terminals from the battery and connecting them to each other for a least 15 minutes. This will cause the computer to reset to default values. It may not make a difference, but it saves time in that the computer doesn't have to unlearn anything.

While you're waiting, check the wiring to the throttle body, distributor, and fan clutch. More than likely, they'll need to be repaired as well.
 






Don't know about a MAF fuse.
Clearing codes with a ODB2 scanner is not the same as allowing the computer to reset. This entails disconnecting both terminals from the battery and connecting them to each other for a least 15 minutes. This will cause the computer to reset to default values. It may not make a difference, but it saves time in that the computer doesn't have to unlearn anything.

While you're waiting, check the wiring to the throttle body, distributor, and fan clutch. More than likely, they'll need to be repaired as well.
I will definitely try that. It's easy enough. I am also going to do a better wire repair.
 






Its not just the v6 and its not just the explorer. buddy has a same vintage focus at work. Running into the same problems you are with the insulation. I have also heard that it isn't just a ford problem. If there isn't enough wire, rock auto sells connectors with a little more meat to grab on to. They aren't cheap, but they may be a bit more reliable if you can solder them in reliably.
 






I had same issue on my both v6 and v8, same cheap harness :)
 






Well I soldered a good piece of wire in where the broken piece was and left the battery disconnected with a jumper between the cables for about an hour and the same codes came back. This thread has thetlist of codes. Don't know what to do next. Go to the junkyard, see if I can find a connection with good wires? I don't know. 06 changes alt and battery now engine light on
 






Sorry for your troubles.
1. Make sure the MAF plug is tight. Mine doesn't seem to seat well.
2. Have you tried to clean the MAF? If you did, did you use the right stuff? If not, it might help.
3. What does the EVAP return hose (from the intake manifold to the canister purge valve) look like? If is is dull and mottled looking, it might be cracked (it's a vacuum line, so if it's cracked then the air flow numbers are wrong). Get 30" of 3/8" fuel hose and replace it ($5 from autozone, keep the connectors on both ends of the OEM hose). Mine wasn't throwing a code, but my beast is running a lot better since I replaced it.
4. While you are there, clean the throttle body.
5. O2 sensor codes, not a clue. But 1-4 will cost less than $15 and will eliminate some other stuff that might be mucking up things.

Was the wire you soldered the same type and gauge as the OEM wire? It's a low voltage control system and as I learned a long time ago trying to repair melted speaker wire, how and what you make the fix with will determine if it works! They do sell a MAF plug with a pig tail, so you could go that route.
 












I did Google it. Found good info through Google. I like to talk to other people to share experiences, and ask advice, so I post here.
I cleaned the MAF, checked connections, checked for vacuum leaks, checked the air filter, "reset" the computer, no success.
My son brought it to a local shop who we have done business with before and they replaced a fuse (not sure which one).
 






I did Google it. Found good info through Google. I like to talk to other people to share experiences, and ask advice, so I post here.
I cleaned the MAF, checked connections, checked for vacuum leaks, checked the air filter, "reset" the computer, no success.
My son brought it to a local shop who we have done business with before and they replaced a fuse (not sure which one).

Any improvement?
 












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