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Project Vehicle - 1998 Explorer Limited

I see that you need to buy some door striker bushings, you have a broken one or two. The doors don't shut as well when those are damaged, and rattle a bit too.
Can you post a pic or link to the part you're talking about? Thank you!
 



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The shocks mount exactly the same, no issue there. The ARC shocks have air lines which you can easily tie off or remove, they lead to a solenoid nearby. There is a display/error on the console trip computer screen, if the system is intact and not working right.

Do you have that on the display, someone may have already removed(disconnected) the ARC module to the right of the radio? If your truck still has the air compressor above the spare tire, and height sensor in back, I could use those for spares.

Here's under the back of my 99, showing the ARC compressor, shocks and height sensor;

View attachment 158949
You're welcome to whatever I can pull off my truck.
 












It's a grey (or black) plastic cylinder that goes over the peg that your door latch catches when you close the door.

Here's a link to complete striker replacement set. Note the grey plastic bushing.
Dorman Ford For Steel Door Latch Lock Striker Bolts With Bushing New 38445 Set/4 | eBay

BTW - IMO you should avoid Dorman products whenever possible, but sometimes you have no other choice.

Funny, that shows the Dorman part which I've bought about a dozen of, bu they are asking over $10 each. I got them from Rock Auto for about $6.50 each plus shipping. Local parts stores I think they've gone up to $8-10 or so.

The PEX hose is a great idea, I bet they do last a lot longer than the Dorman plastic. I've got a piece I haven't had time to see about reducing the diameter of yet.
 






Funny, that shows the Dorman part which I've bought about a dozen of, bu they are asking over $10 each. I got them from Rock Auto for about $6.50 each plus shipping. Local parts stores I think they've gone up to $8-10 or so.

The PEX hose is a great idea, I bet they do last a lot longer than the Dorman plastic. I've got a piece I haven't had time to see about reducing the diameter of yet.

I found that the 1/2" PEX fits tight enough over the striker bolt that I can chuck it in my drill and spin it like a lathe. First I measure the length needed. Next I use an old wood rasp I have to grind the PEX down to the exact OD (using my digital caliber) of the OE plastic bushing (it doesn't take much). Lastly I smooth the plastic out with a piece of fine sand paper. If you don't mind the colors (red, white or blue) PEX makes a perfect substitute. I got the idea from someone on the forum (@Turdle ?) but I refined the process a little. I start out by using my tubing cutter to make a uniform indentation in the PEX (the tubing cutter wont actually cut the PEX, but it seems to reduce it's ID enough so that it fits on the striker bolt nice and tight) then I cut off the piece at the indentation using a hack saw.

One 8' piece of 1/2" PEX will make about 30 bushings for $1.84.
 






Not much progress today, even though I didn't really intend on doing much. In keeping with my push to do at least one thing a day, no matter how small, I decided to install the new fog light bulbs I ordered from RockAuto. Well, they are the wrong bulbs. :( So instead I vacuumed out the cargo area and wiped down the plastic panels. I also had to cut a chunk of dried caulk off the back of one of the rear seats that looked like it's been there for ages.

I'll shampoo the back carpets later. My goal is to make it clean enough to sleep back there during the BBQ competitions I participate in. Typically they start Friday afternoons and run until Saturday evening. You have to sleep close to your smokers, and I don't want to sleep in a lawn chair!

Oh yeah! I was also excited to see that the truck came with a big rubber cargo mat. I learned today I shouldn't be excited. It turns out that it's not a rubber cargo mat but a carpeted cargo mat that was turned upside down because it's disgusting! LOL

This is a before:
32913807_10160638010580107_2883922861108494336_o.jpg


The disgusting cargo mat. I think I'll shampoo it so it doesn't have any funky smells and use it upside down.
32748914_10160638010325107_7471210703630630912_o.jpg


Caulk on the back of the seat!
32974785_10160638009410107_2840382905023201280_o.jpg


I carefully cut it out.
32792463_10160638010070107_8601420399701393408_o.jpg


All vacummed and wiped down! I hope this responds well to the carpet shampoo machine.
32954262_10160638009250107_7725832045863108608_o.jpg
 






Progress is tough to do each day, every step is a good step. The rugs usually clean well, but some stains can be forever. Do what you said, try to clean out the odors at least.

BTW, the area under the rear seats is hard to clean, and if any animals laid there, the smells will sneak up on you. My truck I used to store my rain jacket and pants, below the flap section behind the seats. I cleaned it up well enough I thought when I bought the truck. But later I noticed I smelled old sweat or body odor, when wearing the rain jacket(after I had just washed it). The previous owners evidently had some dogs that laid there, wet, and I hadn't cleaned it well enough. I think removing the rug and fully "washing" it is the needed answer with mine(plus cleaning the floor underneath).
 






Yeah! Under the rear seat was the nastiest part of the interior. I'm hoping pressure washing the carpet killed any future odor!
 






You've gotten the vast majority of it. I cleaned mine by hand, I used to detail cars, but it's no where near the same as cleaning out of the car, pressure washing etc. My truck will get that, but I knew I'd be delivering mail with it for a while, 18 months now. I'll be swapping most of the interior between my Mountaineer and this, just better shape in the Mercury.
 






There's this stuff call "Order Eliminator" (I think ZEP makes it). It's a spray and it worked wonders getting the stinky cigarette smell out of our '97 Explorer before will sold it (and that thing stunk to high heaven). Home Depot sells it.
 






I'm really, really, proud of this. I saw big progress today, and it really can't be seen! I rebuilt the door which included riveting on a new exterior door handle, installing a new lock actuator, new latch assembly, new interior door handle, and re-attaching all of the door linkages. It was a PITA and took way longer than I expected but I'm proud that I figured it out and made it work!

For some reason I feel the same excitement about this old-ass Ford Explorer as I did for my first car when I was 17 and just getting my driver's license.

33096401_10160640875170107_8000069873830985728_o.jpg


32951043_10160640875410107_8841061346976989184_o.jpg
 






These things came with remote door locks right? I should be good to just buy the generic Ford style key fobs from Amazon and program them right? Now that I've got everything in that door working, I think I'd like to go key-less!
 






These things came with remote door locks right? I should be good to just buy the generic Ford style key fobs from Amazon and program them right? Now that I've got everything in that door working, I think I'd like to go key-less!

Yes, your truck has a factory alarm, and the keyless entry, key fob, to control the doors and alarm. My 93 Limited had no key fob, I just bought a new one from eBay for about $10, and it was simple to program. The 98 works the same way, and uses the same fob as the early Explorers. I have one for all three of my SUV's. Buy a new key also, and get the key programmed, you need to always have three keys available.

If you lose one key, you must have two to be able to add any more. If you only have one key, to add more the PATS memory has to be erased, which requires a special diagnostic tool. A lot of key-smiths have those I gather now, that used to be a Ford only tool.

Good work on the door, those latch parts etc, need some good care every 5-10 years. I have two new window switches to put in my front doors, when I find time and the new lock actuators I stored someplace.
 






Believe it or not, the 2018 Explorer Interceptors come with the same old school key fobs of you option it with keyless entry!
 






There are various brands, different colors etc, same for keys, odd colors etc. I opted for OEM fobs, new batteries, and a couple of OEM Ford keys. They all work well though. Shop for something that you like the best.
 






Today's progress report:

It's not huge progress but it signals the change of focus from the interior to the exterior! And while it's not a lot of progress, it was still hot and hard work! LOL Today I removed the degrading pin-stripe from the sides of "The Turd" as well as the stick on "chrome" wheel arch accents and the residue left from a long ago lost tailgate spoiler. I used a rubber vinyl decal eraser wheel chucked into a drill to accomplish all of this. I got lucky with the chrome wheel arch trim. It was actually a rubber strip covered in a very degraded chrome foil with a heavy duty double-sided adhesive. I pealed off the wheel arch trim and attacked it with the rubber wheel.

Unfortunately progress will be slowing down on this in a couple days time as I do some family stuff. But when I start back up on it, it will be to polish "The Turd"!

Here are some pics!

BEFORE:
33058382_10160644707810107_5055758862007664640_o.jpg


DURING:
33020357_10160644708085107_3859393892050796544_o.jpg


AFTER:
33087649_10160644708390107_8254122631112949760_o.jpg


33058415_10160644931365107_7515200914022465536_n.jpg
 






It looks much better w/out the cheesy chrome wheel well arch trim.
 






Yes, the Limited was originally special because of the color scheme, very little chrome, one color and wide side trim that's a contrasting color.

Those wheels look good too. I have the set from mine as spares, if you were up north you might want them for snow tires.
 






I can't wait to put the DA polisher to this thing. Unfortunately is going to have to wait a couple weeks.
 



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That's going to look amazing after polishing. A shiny black vehicle is sweet. Hurry up.
 






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