03 lincoln aviator

[jd4242]

I considered ARP head studs/nuts but decided against them. Cost was a factor but I was concerned there might not be room in the engine compartment to pull the heads with the studs in place. Also, I prefer 6 point over 12 point bolts/nuts.

If you used a lot of engine assembly lube I suggest that you install an inexpensive oil filter for engine start. After the engine warms up replace the oil filter with a quality filter. On rare occasions the assembly lube will clog the filter and the bypass.

My back head bolt doesnt come all the way out in vehicle, i use a rubber band around it to hold it up high enough to slide the head off..learned that trick the first go around..

Im using BR30 break in oil with a FL-820S filter..i start it,get all fluids to level. .change filter to get assembly lube,towel lint out..double check oil and go do some 3/4 load pulls..i run the BR30 for about 100 miles then change to full synthetic


People swear by this stuff

 

[2000StreetRod]

Thanks for the tip Jeremy. I'll find some of that break-in oil. The last engine I rebuilt was in a 1973 Volvo 142S about 30 years ago.

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent, great day there. It looks very clean and should stay that way for years. Take it easy on the break in, and I bet this time it's going to be great.

 

[jd4242]

Excellent, great day there. It looks very clean and should stay that way for years. Take it easy on the break in, and I bet this time it's going to be great.

No taking it easy for break in..need the pressure to seat them rings

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah, today's engines don't have the flat tappet cams, and cylinder hatch patterns which took 500-1000 miles to seat properly.

I remember my first engine build in 1980, and had to start it and hold it at 2000rpm for 20 minutes, check fluids and set timing fast, hold it there and enjoy the open headers of a 351 Cleveland. The neighbors knew something was up, that was a fun drive the next morning to the muffler shop, 25 miles away.

 

[jd4242]

Yeah, today's engines don't have the flat tappet cams, and cylinder hatch patterns which took 500-1000 miles to seat properly.

I remember my first engine build in 1980, and had to start it and hold it at 2000rpm for 20 minutes, check fluids and set timing fast, hold it there and enjoy the open headers of a 351 Cleveland. The neighbors knew something was up, that was a fun drive the next morning to the muffler shop, 25 miles away.

Yea especially mod motors you need to load them up really within the first 15-30 mins..otherwise they dont seat fully and burn oil

 

[jd4242]

No go...its flooding for some reason ..will start and run for about 3 seconds and floods out..pull plugs and dripping wet..have good compression and pretty sure everything is hooked up right

 

[2000StreetRod]

Do you have any scan capability to monitor engine parameters? If not, I have a couple ideas.
1. Check the electrical connector to the injector pressure sensor. If there is no signal from it to the PCM the default may be max pressure from the fuel pump.
2. Check the electrical connector to the engine coolant temperature sensor. The PCM may "think" the engine is cold and providing excessive richness.
3. Check the electrical connector to the MAF sensor. The intake air temperature sensor may not be functional.

 

[jd4242]

I do not,only have a x3..everything is getting power and proper fuel pressure, just check it all..im think the timing is just slightly off to where its making good compression but just enough for it to be spraying on a closing early valve or valve is opening to late..

In process of pulling the valve covers now to see what i can see but more than likely the timing cover is also going to have to come off..

What a headache. .i seriously think this truck is cursed! !

 

[2000StreetRod]

With your X3 and LiveLink on a laptop you can monitor and record engine parameters. Do you have the cable that connects the X3 to a USB port?

On another subject, did you purchase a Mustang starter? If so, does it engage and disengage properly with the ring gear?

 

[jd4242]

With your X3 and LiveLink on a laptop you can monitor and record engine parameters. Do you have the cable that connects the X3 to a USB port?

On another subject, did you purchase a Mustang starter? If so, does it engage and disengage properly with the ring gear?

I do have the cable but unfortunately i dont have a computer here at the house,my laptop was broken by my 8yr old..

Yes i did get the Mustang starter and it works perfectly. .i also didnt put the top bolt back in like everyone else does,easy to do on stand but in vehicle that bolt is a PIA to get..

 

[4pointslow]

This sounds familiar to me, didn't you have a similar problem when the heads were first done and you found the cams were in the wrong places?

 

[jd4242]

This sounds familiar to me, didn't you have a similar problem when the heads were first done and you found the cams were in the wrong places?

Yes..cams definitely are in right place..i sent pics to a engine builder online and he thinks its one tooth off or 12* retard on driverside and also why bank to bank compression is different. .

Pass were all 1-3lbs within each other 178-182ish range..drivers were all 1-3lbs within each other 165-168ish..

 

[jd4242]

This is driverside..#1 is at tdc and crank is at tdc/0

 

[4pointslow]

Is that the one that is one tooth off?

 

[jd4242]

Is that the one that is one tooth off?

Thats what we are thinking but idk honestly. . i swore the cam dot should be perfectly up at 12:00 and they are..so if i advance the big gear one tooth the cam gear dots arnt going to be perfectly up at 12 more like 1ish..

Wish i could remember how many links are between the crank gear dot and the big cam gear dot..i know its 7 dot to dot on the smaller cam gears which checks out..

Im working right now to pull the timing cover

See the notch thats perfectly up at 12..if i advance the big gear it will be off so idk..

 

[jd4242]

See this is passengers side..the cams are at 12 and so is big gear..pretty sure the driverside should be also,the cams are but big gear is not..like the key broke or something and the big gear spun mybe...idk
Passenger side

Driverside..

 

[jd4242]

Well idk now..looks about right..

 

[2000StreetRod]

Below are what mine looked like. I marked a link in the left (driver side) camshaft chain, let the chain hang while holding the marked link horizontal, and then marked the corresponding horizontal link at the bottom which would be half way. Then I installed the chain on the crankshaft aft sprocket while aligning the chain mark with the sprocket timing mark.

Then I aligned the other marked chain link with the left (driver side) cam sprocket timing mark.

I did a similar procedure with the right (passenger side) chain, the crankshaft front sprocket and the right camshaft sprocket.

I used a length of insulated wire to keep the tensioner guide and chain in position.

 

[4pointslow]

1. Rotate the LH camshaft sprocket until the timing mark is approximately at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the RH camshaft timing sprocket until the timing mark is approximately at the 11 o'clock position.