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03 lincoln aviator

Since it apparently cranked normally before you swapped the camshafts, this must be a new problem.
1. Check the PCM C175b connector at the firewall and the C134 connector next to the battery between and below the main battery terminals.
2. Try moving the shift selector to the neutral position to attempt start.
3. The starter motor relay is in the Battery Junction Box under the hood. It is located between the PCM relay and the blower motor relay. Remove the starter motor relay and measure the voltage at the female pin that corresponds to pin 30 marked on the relay. It should read battery voltage at all times. If the voltage is not present check Fuse F1.12 in the Battery Junction Box.
4. If battery voltage is present at pin 30 check for battery voltage at the female pin corresponding to pin 85 on the relay when ignition is in start position
5. If battery voltage is present at pin 85 then remove the blower motor relay and install in the starter motor relay position.
1.ive checked both appear good.
2.no start in park or neutral. .reverse lights work
3.pin 30 is hot..f12 is good
4.no power on 85 when cranking
5.relay is good

I have power coming from ignition switch going to fuse 29 when try to cranking..from there it goes to the dtr which i couldnt find last night..i need to check the dtr,thats where power is ending and not getting to pin85 on the relay
 



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Here's a photo showing the DTR.
5R55SDTR.jpg
 












My moneys on where the trans harness plugs in to the rest of the harness.
 






My moneys on where the trans harness plugs in to the rest of the harness.
I need to get under there and look because i swear the trans harness goes straight to the ecm..

So dont retally know how it goes from fuse 29 under dash to the DTR and then to relay under the hood..almost bet goes through the ecm down the trans harness and back up through the ecm and then to the relay
 






Wow, ok. I thought it would be like the 4r70w style with another plug in. You would have known when you had the motor out. So scratch that thought.
Its ok. Your well on your way to having a working truck again. That reversed cam thing was an ugly. This one won't be so bad.
 






Wow, ok. I thought it would be like the 4r70w style with another plug in. You would have known when you had the motor out. So scratch that thought.
Its ok. Your well on your way to having a working truck again. That reversed cam thing was an ugly. This one won't be so bad.
Ill have to double check but swear i remember a wire aNd plug coming off or outa the main trans harness right next to where it goes into the trans..only one main harness from ecu to trans
 






Connector c140 next to ecu wasnt plugged all the way in..fires right up now...awwwww thank god..time to seat these rings!!!

20180607_175612.jpg
 






WOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Lets hear it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 






It's time for payback now, flogg the "F" out of it!
 






Check the C140 connector on the passenger side of the firewall directly below C144 and next to PCM connector C175t
The starter motor relay solenoid path:
Central Junction Box > C140 > DTR > C140 > Battery Junction Box
 






Check the C140 connector on the passenger side of the firewall directly below C144 and next to PCM connector C175t
The starter motor relay solenoid path:
Central Junction Box > C140 > DTR > C140 > Battery Junction Box
See post 2 before you..it was c140
 






I have a leak in the radiator BAD..but rings are pretty much broke in..i hear a pop every now and then and it runs rough for a second or too like the tensor is sticking or lash adjuster..then it smooths out..

I need to take it for a normal drive and let the ecu learn after i replace the radiator
 






Glad you finally got it working.
You're never going to forget this epic job!
 






So new radiator is in and took for normal drive..man i miss this truck..

I have a vacuum leak in the rubber hoses that come off the intake to the gas tank purge valve and from purge valve to hard tank vent line..going to replace them tomorrow and probably to a master rest again and some normal driving to learn again..

the poping sound happened again once in a 15 mile drive around town..think i know what it is though ..when my fan kicks on when coming to a stop at first or at low rpms it trys to die...when it trys to die oil pressure drops and the chain tensioners compress and is sticking for a second or two till rpm jumps back up and they build pressure again..

The rpm shouldnt drop that low after i fix the vacuum leaks and it relearns..also sure the tensioners need to break in some,might be a burr or something

Only done about 2/3 throttle pulls to about 5k but will say mannn this thing is much much faster than before
 






Worst case, there might be a rpm adder in your tuning strategy for when the sedan turns on. Your un to the minor shake out stuff now.
 






Worst case, there might be a rpm adder in your tuning strategy for when the sedan turns on. Your un to the minor shake out stuff now.
The efan is aftermarket so no controll in tune..it has soft start and starts i think at 30% and progresses to 100% as temp increases..still puts a good load on the motor for some reason though
 






Glad to hear you got it fired up and running after all of this!
 






What does an exhaust leak show up as if before O2?? Pretty sure i have one
 



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Lean, adding fuel to the bank that has the exhaust leak.
 






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