PTU Problems

[peterk9]

I checked this site but it doesn't seem to break down the PTU/Transfer Case. AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories

Peter

 

[jo7hs2]

You should be able to find associated part numbers by entering the part # and vehicle (or VIN) into the search tool for parts.ford.com but you may want to triple check it’s the right PTU first, because it looks like there are several versions and multiple revisions.

 

[jo7hs2]

But even parts.ford.com is just showing stuff like brackets and the vent tube, no gaskets.

 

[KayGee]

It might just be sealed with a liquid gasket. You should be able to order seals. I thought I saw a mention of a repair kit somewhere.

 

[jo7hs2]

I went and checked my 2018 XLT as well. Unless I’m missing it, there is still no drain plug.

Moving back a page or so into the question of drain plugs...now I'm amused. My application (3.5NA, 6F55) lists based on my VIN a magnetic plug on the PTU.

Plug - Magnetic Type | FordUS

However, for the life of me, I'd swear it is on the side mounted to the transmission.

 

[JEDinMD]

Limited with 4WD. PTU seal leak at 45,000 - oil drops on the garage floor. Dealer replaced seal under warranty. Upon next drive to work, immediately heard whirring sound at 35 - 15 mph when decelerating. Took it to dealer - they heard it, too, and replaced PTU. Now, with new PTU, we hear a whining, rattling type sound on acceleration from 5 - 20 mph. Goes away with greater speed. Going in again for service next week. There were absolutely no noises or symptoms until the initial seal repair. Thoughts?

 

[Sgt1411]

Limited with 4WD. PTU seal leak at 45,000 - oil drops on the garage floor. Dealer replaced seal under warranty. Upon next drive to work, immediately heard whirring sound at 35 - 15 mph when decelerating. Took it to dealer - they heard it, too, and replaced PTU. Now, with new PTU, we hear a whining, rattling type sound on acceleration from 5 - 20 mph. Goes away with greater speed. Going in again for service next week. There were absolutely no noises or symptoms until the initial seal repair. Thoughts?

Would be interesting to know if the dealer used an older PTU that wasn't the newer updated version.

How the customer could determine that would be somewhat difficult unless there were separate part numbers.

I would challenge the Dealer Service Tech to see if they get flustered or even understand there was a new upgraded design.

 

[Frya]

Hello everybody,
hope this is not too long to read

I have had my PTU replaced under warranty in the past (arround 30k "km"), this happened when I complained about an abnormal sound.

today I was in the mechanics shop and had 1 injector + 6 spark plugs replaced, and they told me that there is a leak in the PTU and that they suspect gasket and/or seals, my question is can some one here help me get the part numbers of the gaskets/seals involved in that so that I can import them from US, because generally parts are double/triple the price here compared to US.

thanks in advance, and I am refering to 2013 Explorer XLT 4WD.
View attachment 157141

Update: got the PTU replaced under warranty.

thank you all.

 

[mwittman77]

Hey just trying to confirm here, it looks like the MY2017+ PTU's have a redesign that somehow make them more durable/lower maintenance? I just rolled past 20K miles on my '17 X Sport, was looking into doing a fluid change on my PTU, but trying to determine if it's necessary, or to wait until a higher mileage. Thanks!

 

[aypanthony]

Hey just trying to confirm here, it looks like the MY2017+ PTU's have a redesign that somehow make them more durable/lower maintenance? I just rolled past 20K miles on my '17 X Sport, was looking into doing a fluid change on my PTU, but trying to determine if it's necessary, or to wait until a higher mileage. Thanks!

IMO, I think it is best to change the PTU oil early in its service life, then every 15-30k based on usage, similar to a differential. Especially when you consider, gear break-in, manufacturing contaminants, so on. There is no requirement in the service manual to change the "lifetime" ptu oil, but it makes sense to.

 

[Irishfred]

An update to my PTU issue.

I had oil "boiling out" of the PTU at 57000 miles. Took the car to the dealer, where they stated there was no problem, and gave the car back to me. No charge.

Took my car to an independent mechanic. He stated that the PTU was "boiling out" fluid, and the level was almost empty. He filled it up with AmsOil. He told me to get new tires, and rotate them every 7k miles. No bearing noise was noted, and the car drove without issues.

I took the car back to the dealer. They said that a tech did not initially examine my car. They stated that I needed a new PTU. I ignored this dealer. They charged me $89 for a diagnosis charge. I have purchased a MityVac for DIY oil changes in my garage, and will never go back to this Ford dealer ever again.

I just took my car back to the independent mechanic today. The car now has 75000 miles. The fluid level is at max, without any signs of boiling out. No bearing noise.

 

[Leviticus]

New, but have been lurking on here forever.

2013 AWD basemodel.
Ptu is slinging oil/grease out. It’s grey, an I hear that’s not good, and everywhere. But the question I’ve got is there is engine oil all over the bottom of the engine and truck. Front to back. Mostly passenger side. Oil filter and plug are in place. No visible engine leaks.
Could this come from the ptu also.
Contacting dealer tomorrow about repair. Just trying to see if there is more of an issue

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum.
It would probably be a good idea to get the PTU issue addressed first and have the bottom of the vehicle cleaned before trying to find any other possible leaks. Is the engine oil still at the full level on the dipstick?

Peter

 

[Leviticus]

I’ve been in touch with local dealerships today.
Trying to price the ptu and labor.

I didn’t know if the two issues could be related.

There is still oil in the pan. It isn’t a major leak.
But it seems slung out in coverage, not a leak or dispersed from driving.

 

[peterk9]

According a post in this thread, the PTU is $700. It seems that the total cost, PTU & labour, could run in the $1500 - $2000 range.
Transfer Case for 2013 Ford Explorer | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

Peter

 

[Leviticus]

Thanks.
$2200 out the door from the dealer.
So labor $700, and $1500 for ptu and incidentals.
Sound rough for fluids and shop towels and bolts.

 

[KayGee]

Thanks.
$2200 out the door from the dealer.
So labor $700, and $1500 for ptu and incidentals.
Sound rough for fluids and shop towels and bolts.

Labor seems a little high - I would shop around. (labor to R&R ptu should only be around 5 hours)
PTU and incidentals seems way too high - should be about half that.

 

[blwnsmoke]

Thanks.
$2200 out the door from the dealer.
So labor $700, and $1500 for ptu and incidentals.
Sound rough for fluids and shop towels and bolts.

That is way too high. Even at retail, it is a $950 unit.. $700 in labor is about right.. factoring in $125 an hour at 5-6 hours. You should be in the $1700 range.

 

[KayGee]

Personally, $1700 is still too high.

Don't pay posted labor rates at dealers - shop around and negotiate - 'some' will reduce their labor rate to get a job - if they won't, go elsewhere.

Also, look for a reputable local indy shop that has a better labor rate - likely under $75/hr.

 

[mcpcartier]

Thanks.
$2200 out the door from the dealer.
So labor $700, and $1500 for ptu and incidentals.
Sound rough for fluids and shop towels and bolts.

Labor seems a little high - I would shop around. (labor to R&R ptu should only be around 5 hours)
PTU and incidentals seems way too high - should be about half that.

Recently rebuilt my PTU and it was a pain in the driveway. Took a full day to get it out (control arms were my biggest hassle), the better part of day to clean it up (clean out sludge, put in new seals, drill a drain hole), and the better part of a day to put everything back in. My problem was no 11 mm wrench, incorrect seal installer, snapped one of the exhaust flange studs, no drill with bigger than 3/8" chuck to drill drain hole. A bunch of time wasted on lack of preparation.... Next time I'm sure I could easily do it in 2 days....I'd say a long day (10 hours) to pull and rebuild it (new seals), and a 6 to 8 hour day to put it back, top of fluids, etc.. Experience of what to remove, how it's connected, what tools you need are the time savers. Doing this on a lift would make it so much easier/faster.

My costs were about $85....seals were about $50, stud kit for exhaust manifold as about $15, and geal oil. Some other minor incidentals like a bit/tap, kerosene to clean out the PTU, RTV, 11 mm wrench, etc.. I did to a transmission fluid change at the same time...but that was my choice so I count that as a separate cost. Though you will loose some tranny fluid doing this so you do need a few quarts at minimum.