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Fuel efficiency...

but for the weight of the Explorer, it’s a fair balance of usable power and efficiency.

That's why I'm stuck on the 302 explorers. Best balance of size, power and utility. Ultimately: 4,200lbs, 260-300hp/tq, 20mpg @65mph, run at 14.9 et, tow almost 7,000lbs, off road capable (factory lift, track loc) but quiet down the highway, long enough to sleep in comfortably and parts are relatively inexpensive and will be available for years to come and insurance is cheap. I could buy two nice 2nd gens for the price 5th gen owners pay for full coverage a year.
 



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Well then maybe the 302 is the way to go. I only get about 16 mpg right now. 20 mpg would be at least something
 






Sell yours and find a 5.0 for around $3,000 with around 130,000miles. Another $400 for all fresh synthetic fluids and filters. Figure $1000 aside for anything else that needs repairing (brakes,suspension,etc). $500-600 for a set of good tires with warranty. Performance wise, put on a muffler and a K&N(because I know you're going to anyway ;)) and call it good. Seriously. You can thank me in 15 years when your still driving it and saved enough to buy a used Shelby for cash in that time. Or you could buy a Shelby for cash sooner if you drove a four banger. Or you could just find a way to make more money. Or steal a tanker full of fuel 2F2F style to offset the cost of the mods you have planned. Many thing you can do..
 






Well then maybe the 302 is the way to go. I only get about 16 mpg right now. 20 mpg would be at least something
Your SOHC should do better than that, unless you are pure city.
 


















Honestly, if that's you goal sell the X & buy something that meets that goal. You going to spend $$ to get what you want.
The most popular swap is the 5.0L V8, but MPG isn't much if any better.

That is the best advice that anyone with an Explorer could give & recieve:
I just got my first 5.0L Expl (after wasting my time w/ 4.0's for 27yrs) & will never go back.
 






So, would I be correct in saying that the 5.0 is probably the most versatile Ford engine?
 






In the Explorer.....other Fords that use the 5.0l have different heads/programming that move the power band higher. The Explorer version keeps it on the low side of the RPM scale for the TQ. If your going to look at a 5.0 swap, get a wreaked complete 5.0 Explorer. I've seen them around $500. But then again, your going to need $ to refresh/repair as well as labor time. Wiring is a PITA for emissions sensors. I considered a swap...then I sold my 1st gen & bought a 2002. Much easier.
I would have got the V8 but they are trashed in my area.
 






I know a lot of people on here are looking to crank out more power without regards to fuel economy. However, as many mods as I'd like to do to my 99 xlt, I'd like to be able to afford to drive it, too. I currently have a 4.0 SOHC and would like to swap it for something I can get better efficiency with. Any suggestions for an engine that is more efficient that still has power potential when upgraded? I'm looking for the best power to efficiency ratio you can come up with.

Others have already mentioned it. You will end up having to spend MUCH more money than your 1999 is currently worth and unless you go electric as toypaseo suggested or go Hybrid you won't bring fuel efficiency down enough for it to make sense economically.

In Europe you could probably find a company that could convert your Explorer from gasoline to in the US basically non existant "autogas" as fuel, but even that would likely not end up being a very reasonable way to go, considering the lack of infrastructure to fill such a car in the US.

If anything at all could possibly make real sense, then I suggest looking into going electric as an alternative.
Possibly even keeping the gasoline powered engine.
I believe the easiest, most efficient and cheapest route to go with such a custom "plug in hybrid" conversion would most likely be reducing(/crippling) the current drivetrain to FWD only (should you have AWD now) while at the same time then adding an electric motor to independently drive only the rear wheels.
Then mount a big battery in the trunk, or probably even better underneath the car, and put a nice set of solar panels on the roof.
But even such a conversion is not likely to be cost efficient let alone cheap and probably not truly "worth" doing on such an old car.
 






For the price of a V8 second gen I wouldn’t consider swapping in one on place of a V6 unless the cab is sentimental to you, and you have a very good mechanical aptitude. If you are concerned about gas mileage I’d only look for a 2wd, and if you do a lot of highway I’d probably slap a pick n pull 3.55 rear axle in.
 






Your SOHC should do better than that, unless you are pure city.

Ditto, the SOHC 4.0 has the best efficiency potential of the three stock choices. My 99 SOHC has 4.10's and gets close to 18mpg with mostly highway driving. If you do enough highway driving, say 60% or more, 3.73's would be the best gearing choice.

The only decent engine swap you might find will be say a later 3.8 V6 or the turbo 2.3/2.7 engines etc. Those should fit the narrow engine bay. But the cost of converting/swapping wiring etc, plus some fabrication, makes that a very special swap.

Read through Al's thread carefully, he gained several MGP with his SOHC 4.0 1999 truck. Lower the truck and install a decent front air dam, swap to all synthetic fluids, best not cheapest. Alter the tire sizes and gears of the diff's, to best match the usage, and keep the rpm's down as much as possible. Slow down going up hills(a few mph), and speed up going down(a few mph), from the intended speed. That's about it, these 4500lbs trucks are not going to get 25mpg for any meaningful distance.

I'd like the Ford GT 5.8 engine too, was that for it, or an upgrade?
 






This is something I'm interested in experimenting with, not just to save money but to see what mods actually work to improve fuel efficiency without making her miserable to drive.

One of the most important factors, if not THE most important, is throttle position. BMW has had intake manifold vacuum gauges on the dash for centuries. More intake manifold vacuum occurs when the throttle is closed more. Lower rpm can help too but not if the throttle is open more. Taller tires or gearing will lower rpm but if it requires more throttle to pull, the results will be lower mpg.

I think the crucial element to achieve the power needed to be fuel efficient is static compression. The magical right amount to make the power to move you but not detonate/knock/pre-ignite. Small combustion chamber volume, a centrally located spark plug, proper squish and quench keep detonation away. Performance designed heads which flow well can increase dynamic compression but require the throttle to be open, this doesn't contribute to fuel efficiency. The GT40P head has a more centrally located spark plug and nice small volume combustion chamber, not to mention it flows very well for the rpm range most trucks and SUV's use. I'm curious what wonders await if we got squish down to 0.035" or so.

From what I've found, the pistons in an Explorer 5.0 are 0.020" below the deck/ in the hole. Is this correct? Not sure we are likely to find a 0.015" thick head gasket available. Getting squish right might require decking the block or finding a piston which will get us where we need to be to work with the head gaskets that are available.
 






Unless you drive an ungodly amount, and motor tear down and machining costs will far outweigh any benefit. Trying to make an old push rod V8 extra fuel efficient is like trying to get a moped to have an impressive ET. Beyond slowing down, having a proper running motor, and fresh bearings and quality synthetic fluids, I don’t think anything else would actually pay off.
 






I higher compression than 9:1 would help quite a bit. I'm aiming at the 9.5 range or whatever my cam designer tells me, that he can make work with regular gas. Look at the KB hypereutectic pistons, there are $315 sets that can get you in the 9.5 to 10:1 range. Set the quench in that .035" range with adjusting the pistons and gaskets, that should make good power.

The exhaust is horrendous, that's a cause for a big loss of power and fuel economy. If you could correct the exhaust, and make the compression/cam/intake ideal with PCM programming for proper A/F and timing, 21-23mpg should happen with the 302. But without all of those things right, you'll be lucky to get close to 18mpg. Nobody as yet has corrected the exhaust in any of these 2nd gens, and I might end up being the only one to do it.
 






Unless you drive an ungodly amount, and motor tear down and machining costs will far outweigh any benefit. Trying to make an old push rod V8 extra fuel efficient is like trying to get a moped to have an impressive ET. Beyond slowing down, having a proper running motor, and fresh bearings and quality synthetic fluids, I don’t think anything else would actually pay off.

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I higher compression than 9:1 would help quite a bit. I'm aiming at the 9.5 range or whatever my cam designer tells me, that he can make work with regular gas. Look at the KB hypereutectic pistons, there are $315 sets that can get you in the 9.5 to 10:1 range. Set the quench in that .035" range with adjusting the pistons and gaskets, that should make good power.

The exhaust is horrendous, that's a cause for a big loss of power and fuel economy. If you could correct the exhaust, and make the compression/cam/intake ideal with PCM programming for proper A/F and timing, 21-23mpg should happen with the 302. But without all of those things right, you'll be lucky to get close to 18mpg. Nobody as yet has corrected the exhaust in any of these 2nd gens, and I might end up being the only one to do it.

Going along that route is possible, but costly and is only going to be really successful if done by very capable skilled tuners.
What you're not mentioning for example is the entire aspect of motor management and PCM programming.
And that needs to be optimized for the engine and the changes on the engine for it to end up being somewhat fuel efficient. But aside from a few rare PCM reprogramming applications which improve fuel efficiency at the cost of a mild loss of performance, most motor tuning just increases an engines the power and with that also increases fuel consumption.

What you'd "ideally" want to improve fuel efficiency would be modern things like variable valve control, a start stop automatic system and things like that. Those kind of features could really improve MPG noticeably, but those are practically just plain impossible to implement in an existing older engine.

There is one other thing that could help reduce fuel consumption considerably though, replacing the transmission with a manual transmission geared for optimum fuel efficiency rather than performance.

With the exception of very few of the newest automatic transmissions
engineered by Mercedes and subcontractors, all automatic transmissions have a little bit of constant slip as well as added friction. Manual transmissions are more fuel efficient on paper.
Practically they do require the drivers to adapt their driving style and habits to achieve optimum fuel efficiency though. Sadly they tend to make people drive their car a little more sporty instead and that can easily be counter productive as well.

Other than that wheels and tires can also make a significant difference and items negatively affecting the vehicles aerodynamics, like roof racks etc.

And of course there is also weight reduction. Our explorers usually carry a LOT of weight that could potentially just be thrown out. Stuff like unused rear seats, insulation, carpet, plastic covers on doors...… You know, all the stuff you typically won't find in race cars. :burnout:
 






The only fuel efficiency I'm interested in improving is at cruise speed on the highway @ 70mph ish. Too many other factors with around town stop and go driving.

No VVT needed as this is a truck engine which will operate in the lower "truck" rpm range. From idle to 4,500rpm ish. Not sure if a pushrod V8 is at a disadvantage doing this type of work.

As far as tuning goes, small combustion chamber volume, a centrally located spark plug, proper squish and quench allow for less timing advance to be used and still make peak cylinder pressure around 15deg ATDC. I don't think an ECU can do this on it's own so base timing will have to be adjusted. The ECU should be able to make the necessary fuel trim adjustments.

IIRC, didn't all of the Fox body mustangs get in the upper 20's for mpg on the interstate at a set cruise speed of around 70mph?
Same for Corvettes? Big engine turning low rpm but making enough power at a small throttle opening to be fuel efficient.
Of course both of these cars are more aerodynamic than an Explorer.
 



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As far as tuning goes, small combustion chamber volume, a

IIRC, didn't all of the Fox body mustangs get in the upper 20's for mpg on the interstate at a set cruise speed of around 70mph?
Same for Corvettes? Big engine turning low rpm but making enough power at a small throttle opening to be fuel efficient.
Of course both of these cars are more aerodynamic than an Explorer.
And 1000 pounds less with far less rotating mass.
 






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