Completed Project My 98 super charged EX

1998 Explorer 4.0 SOHC
Bought it with a melted alternator/wiring harness from a junkyard for $1,000
Fixed it, drove it for two weeks, then I boosted it.
Started with an M90 supercharger kit from www.Bansheesuperchargerkit.com
Upgraded to an M112 Lightning supercharger that was a prototype kit.
Next was the M122 off a 2012 GT500
I have reached 20 lbs of boost (with ARP head studs) and a 12.83 in a quarter mile.

Pictures
1. How it looked when I brought it home.
2.The M90 supercharger installed
3.The GT500 supercharger installed
4.How it looks now
5.Wheelie

 

[4pointslow]

I also got some work done on the Nitrous install.
Ran the Nitrous line from front to back, and went into the huge rubber grommet for the rear tail lights and into the rear hatch area where the bottle will be.
Also sealed all the nitrous fittings on the nitrous solenoid, attached the purge solenoid, ran the line to the spray plate and attached the purge tube at the solenoid.
Then I ran the grounds for the nitrous and purge solenoid.
The nitrous solenoid is bolted to the brake master cylinder/booster bolt.
Still have lots of work to do.

 

[4pointslow]

Today I got the heated bottle bracket installed.
Also installed the blown down tube, I used a grommet from an Explorer air filter box to seal the tube to passenger compartment.

 

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I didn't have time to install yet but here is the controller.

 

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Open



And Closed

 

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Today I got the controller mounted, finished wiring the heated bottle bracket, and installed the switches.
I still have to install relays, and a bunch more wiring.
I installed the nitrous controller in the glove box with the other controllers.

 

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This picture was taken back in 2015 by the track photographer Dave Milcarek.
He does an awesome job!

 

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I am going to install new 31 spline spider gears in my rear 8.8 trac lock rear.
Got the gears coming and ordered Yukon brand from Summit.

I need to replace the clutches too.
Yukon has listed YPKF8.8-PC [16017]
and YPKF8.8-PC-L [16018]

Anyone know how to tell which ones you really need?

 

[4pointslow]

YPKF8.8-PC [16017] is supposed to be long ears

and YPKF8.8-PC-L [16018] is short ears

How do you tell the difference? Can you tell with out removing the diff cover?

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Nice ****pit!

 

[CDW6212R]

I am going to install new 31 spline spider gears in my rear 8.8 trac lock rear.
Got the gears coming and ordered Yukon brand from Summit.

I need to replace the clutches too.
Yukon has listed YPKF8.8-PC [16017]
and YPKF8.8-PC-L [16018]

Anyone know how to tell which ones you really need?

I suggest one of the two Ford clutch kits, I hadn't noticed other brands. I have the better carbon fiber clutch kit from Ford to put in my truck. It was a decent price from Summit I think, around $100 I think it was. I have the axles out so far, I was wanting to upgrade the brakes too. I can take a look at the clutch ears shortly, if you want to get the Yukon parts.

 

[boominXplorer]

You have enough power to snap that factory carrier in half, I'd consider upgrading the carrier. I've seen 3 break, one being my own. The carrier housing literally splits in 2.

 

[4pointslow]

I ordered the Yukon smaller tabs (late model) YGA-16018 clutch kit from summit through eBay.
Hope they are the right ones.

I would love to replace the whole rear with something stronger but it is not in the budget this year.
Also I launch with all 4 so I am hoping that the torque being sent to two rears is helping this truck stay together.

 

[4pointslow]

I have most of the Nitrous kit finished.
Still need to do some testing so the fuel line from my regulator to fuel solenoid is still disconnected.
The plan is to get to the track after I finish a few more things, and test a bunch of things.

I need 6 degrees more of timing advance so I am going to test out Boostane (premium) and see if it will do anything for my truck.
At the same time I will be monitoring the nitrous controller to see if it is functioning correctly at WOT, before actually attaching the fuel and nitrous.
I have the controller set to activate at WOT (95% or more of TPS) from 4,000 to 6,000, and skip the first three gears.
Only looking to spray in 4th which is 1:1 and from about the 1/8th mile until the end of the 1/4.
The rpms for the gear skips are all programmable so I have to look closer at them while at the track.

Anyway, here is the purge line tip sticking through the wiper cowl. I secured it with some metal clamps under the plastic cowl cover.

 

[Dono]

Why 6 more degree's? Does that get your timing table back to where it would be N/A? Or MBT?
How do we even know what MBT spark is after we have messed with our motors so much?

Your annual race with the school must be coming up shortly. I'm really looking forward to hearing about it.

 

[4pointslow]

Why 6 more degree's? Does that get your timing table back to where it would be N/A? Or MBT?
How do we even know what MBT spark is after we have messed with our motors so much?

Your annual race with the school must be coming up shortly. I'm really looking forward to hearing about it.

Here are some of my broken thoughts, sorry I just cant form them all together at the moment because I am getting old. LOL.
6 more degrees would get me to 4 from stock MBT. I don't expect to be able to reach full stock MBT.
I felt how the truck responded to adding timing and I just have this hunch I might be able to make it to that spot with a higher octane fuel.(102 octane?)
They say 1 degree timing for every 1.5 octane. 93 to 102 = 9 octane higher and about 4-5 degrees more timing.
If I mix in the octane booster "Boostane premium" with less fuel I may make it to 103 octane?
who knows maybe it wont work at all. LOL.

I have in my mind that old engines like Chevy 350's really ran good off 35-36 degrees full timing N/A.
My MBT in my table is 25 for WOT, add 10 base and you get 35. Maybe coincidence?
I know what I felt at the track last year, the truck really responded to adding timing but we are limited to how much due to detonation.
I had about 6 degrees pulled out and ran 13.20's. Then got down to 12.80's with 6 degrees.
With 6 more I might actually hit 12.5's and finally get what I was supposed to from the heads and cams.

Unfortunately the school races stopped for now. I am hoping they start again but I am not holding my breath.
I am instead setting my sights on getting to the track to test out Boostane and timing increases after finishing the spider gears and LSD clutches.
If that works out I should be able to test the nitrous on Black Friday at Atco Raceways all day event. I love their slogan....
She goes shopping, and you go racing! LOL.

 

[Dono]

One more question.
Is your Spark MBT table left at factory values in your tune? Apparently the MBT table adjusts the torque table also.

Sorry to hear the school races have stopped.

 

[4pointslow]

My MBT table is stock, never changed that.
I would assume that the torque table looks at timing and compares it to MBT timing and uses that along with other info to calculate torque.
I don't remember seeing any tunes where MBT was changed, but my memory is not what it used to be either. LOL.

 

[4pointslow]

If you watch the Cleetus McFarland youtube channel they were just tuning "The Dale Truck".
Garret Mitchel (Cleetus) mentioned something about 24 degrees timing which is what he may have been used to with his car "Leroy"
Jeremy (Faster Proms) said something about the truck(Dale Truck) liking 30 degrees.

The Dale truck is naturally aspirated where Leroy is twin turbo so of course the maximum timing achievable would be different between the two.
Notice how the naturally aspirated vehicle is getting closer to 35-36 degree's. I wonder what octane fuel they are running?
When Jeremy switches vehicles over to E85 (85 percent ethanol) he cranks the timing up and the vehicle makes more timing.
I wonder if they are going to test out E85 on Dale Truck.
I really like watching these guys, they are smart and make it fun as well. The episode where they just broke the stick shift record and ran 7's was absolutely awesome. It brought out the feelings of being let down when things don't go right, and the feelings of success when they do go right at the race track.

Another great youtube channel is Goonzquad, they do some amazing body work.

 

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So today I replaced the spider gears, limited slip clutches, and installed Moser axles.
I had ordered short tab clutches and got lucky because that was what was in there.

I did have one thing not work out right, what do you think of this?