koda2000
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- September 2, 2011
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Note: There are no questions in this thread, so read it for entertainment value if you want, or ignore it.
When I was installing new rear brake pads on my daughter's RWD 5.0L '00 Mountaineer last week, I noticed that the rear diff housing was caked with mud (not surprising) and was wet with gear oil (surprising). I figured at 250-260k the pinion seal finally had given up the ghost. I plan on changing the pinion and trans tail shaft seals when it gets cooler out, but I figured I'd better add some gear oil to the diff, as I didn't know how much had leaked out. I began with the following tools and supplies...
Large piece of double-thick cardboard to lay on
Ramps
Protective eye wear
Large metal oil catch pan
2" scraper
Roll of paper towels
Fluid transfer pump
3/8's long-handled ratchet (for the diff fill plug)
12" piece of pipe for added leverage
After scraping off about a half pound of oil soaked mud off the diff housing I put the ratchet in the fill plug, but it wouldn't move. I added the length of pipe for leverage. Still couldn't move it. Got out more tools...
1/2" Impact wrench
1/2" to 3/8" adapter
Air compressor and air hose
Electrical extension cord
The fill plug still would not budge and the square hole in the plug was beginning to wallow out. This is a southern vehicle with zero rust, so I was surprised that the plug was stuck. Got out more tools to remove vent tube...
Pliers
Utility knife
Small screw driver - to remove remains of vent tube.
Found vent tube was plugged by a mud wasp (those freaking wasps plug any hole they can find. I've even had them plug an A/C drain line on another vehicle). Broke off the vent line, cut of the remaining inch of vent hose off the vent nipple. The clogged vent tube probably lead to the pinion seal leaking. Test fitted my transfer pump hose to the vent nipple. It fit well, but decided to add a hose clamp to make sure it didn't pop off. More tools...
Small worm-drive hose clamp
Medium-sized flat blade screw driver for hose clamp (couldn't use it because the sway bar was in the way).
1/4" ratchet
8" 1/4" extension and appropriate sized socket for the hose clamp
Attached transfer pump to quart of hypoid gear oil and to vent tube nipple, tighten hose clamp and started pumping, which was difficult because there's no where for the air to go except out of a seal and the vent nipple is a small hole. I had no way of knowing how much oil had been lost so I have no way of knowing how much to put in. I put in 1/2 a quart and then decided that a little too much was better than not enough and put in a 1/4 quart more. This didn't take many pumps, but they were slow hard pumps. This should protect the gears/bearings until I get around to replacing the pinion seal. I guess I'll add a fill plug to the diff cover and refill the diff with 3 qts of fresh hypoid at the same time.
Cleared the blocked vent hose with the small screw driver and blew it out with the air compressor (needed go back to the garage to get the blow gun attachment). Trimmed the broken/rough end of the vent hose and reattached it. I'm curious to see how much it will leak with the vent tube now unclogged.
I found I could not manage to get the hose back into the clip that holds it to the frame. More tools...
Bottle of slippery stuff (Amorall)
Pair of needle nose pliers
Clean up my mess, and put everything away. Drove it about 5 miles to see if it would puke any oil out the vent tube (it didn't). Total time spent about 1 1/2 hours for what should have been a 10-15 min job.
This vehicle was to have been retired this past Spring, but life got in the way. Hopefully it will get replaced in Spring 2019. It still runs and drives great, but it's getting long in the tooth. I hope to sell it for around $1500. Well see how much interest there is for it next Spring. If I detail it and replace the driver's seat bottom cover I think I might get $2000 for it, but I'll see how ambitious I feel (I'm getting long in the tooth too... LOL).
When I was installing new rear brake pads on my daughter's RWD 5.0L '00 Mountaineer last week, I noticed that the rear diff housing was caked with mud (not surprising) and was wet with gear oil (surprising). I figured at 250-260k the pinion seal finally had given up the ghost. I plan on changing the pinion and trans tail shaft seals when it gets cooler out, but I figured I'd better add some gear oil to the diff, as I didn't know how much had leaked out. I began with the following tools and supplies...
Large piece of double-thick cardboard to lay on
Ramps
Protective eye wear
Large metal oil catch pan
2" scraper
Roll of paper towels
Fluid transfer pump
3/8's long-handled ratchet (for the diff fill plug)
12" piece of pipe for added leverage
After scraping off about a half pound of oil soaked mud off the diff housing I put the ratchet in the fill plug, but it wouldn't move. I added the length of pipe for leverage. Still couldn't move it. Got out more tools...
1/2" Impact wrench
1/2" to 3/8" adapter
Air compressor and air hose
Electrical extension cord
The fill plug still would not budge and the square hole in the plug was beginning to wallow out. This is a southern vehicle with zero rust, so I was surprised that the plug was stuck. Got out more tools to remove vent tube...
Pliers
Utility knife
Small screw driver - to remove remains of vent tube.
Found vent tube was plugged by a mud wasp (those freaking wasps plug any hole they can find. I've even had them plug an A/C drain line on another vehicle). Broke off the vent line, cut of the remaining inch of vent hose off the vent nipple. The clogged vent tube probably lead to the pinion seal leaking. Test fitted my transfer pump hose to the vent nipple. It fit well, but decided to add a hose clamp to make sure it didn't pop off. More tools...
Small worm-drive hose clamp
Medium-sized flat blade screw driver for hose clamp (couldn't use it because the sway bar was in the way).
1/4" ratchet
8" 1/4" extension and appropriate sized socket for the hose clamp
Attached transfer pump to quart of hypoid gear oil and to vent tube nipple, tighten hose clamp and started pumping, which was difficult because there's no where for the air to go except out of a seal and the vent nipple is a small hole. I had no way of knowing how much oil had been lost so I have no way of knowing how much to put in. I put in 1/2 a quart and then decided that a little too much was better than not enough and put in a 1/4 quart more. This didn't take many pumps, but they were slow hard pumps. This should protect the gears/bearings until I get around to replacing the pinion seal. I guess I'll add a fill plug to the diff cover and refill the diff with 3 qts of fresh hypoid at the same time.
Cleared the blocked vent hose with the small screw driver and blew it out with the air compressor (needed go back to the garage to get the blow gun attachment). Trimmed the broken/rough end of the vent hose and reattached it. I'm curious to see how much it will leak with the vent tube now unclogged.
I found I could not manage to get the hose back into the clip that holds it to the frame. More tools...
Bottle of slippery stuff (Amorall)
Pair of needle nose pliers
Clean up my mess, and put everything away. Drove it about 5 miles to see if it would puke any oil out the vent tube (it didn't). Total time spent about 1 1/2 hours for what should have been a 10-15 min job.
This vehicle was to have been retired this past Spring, but life got in the way. Hopefully it will get replaced in Spring 2019. It still runs and drives great, but it's getting long in the tooth. I hope to sell it for around $1500. Well see how much interest there is for it next Spring. If I detail it and replace the driver's seat bottom cover I think I might get $2000 for it, but I'll see how ambitious I feel (I'm getting long in the tooth too... LOL).