Highest end oil Filter available

| K and P Engineering

For us 5.0 V8 guys, the filter is an S17
The bad? This product carries a price that will bring a tear to your eye when your paying for it.

The Good?
1. I can't find one negative review.
2. Over on the YellowBullet the big guys use them, and swear by them.
3. High flow, and rated at a consistent 35 micron filtering.
4. Re-usable filter media (Better be for that price).
5. Here's the big one for me: The filter media comes apart easily and can be checked for engine bits (specifically bearing material) Cutting up filters is time consuming for me and usually ends up in a blood sacrifice.

I'll be ordering one, and will post further reviews once I get it, and then again once my motor is back together and actually using it. Hopefully after the engine dyno I will be able to post pics of a real world, personal experience

 

[vroomzoomboom]

one thing i have been thinking about don, is using a remote oil filter adaptor. this way you can place the filter anywhere you like, some offer the use of duel filters, you can also use a larger filter like a fl1a and it also will allow you to ditch the explorer adaptor that we all know over time will leak and cause a nice little mess.

 

[Dono]

I've thought a lot about that. I just don't trust my ability to remote mount safely. With motor movement, etc. I still have the issue of cutting filters open for the first while to look for thrust bearing material. For the next while, I think this is the safest solution for me.

If I ever get my motor issues sorted out, I think I would love to take on a remote mount system as a separate project.

 

[RangerX]

How much?
I opened the link, but didn't want to dig all through it to find the cost...

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Why don't you send the oil in for analysis instead of simple visual inspection?

 

[Dono]

There isn't time for that. When a thrust bearing goes, it goes fast.
A few weeks could easily mean a block ruined.

I'm really at that spot where I'll need to check thrust wear with a gauge and material in the oil filter daily for starters, and extend from there. its been an extremely expensive road. I don't want to trash crank, pistons, etc. again. if I can catch a wearing thrust early, I'll save a significant amount of money. hopefully, I'll find there is no issue next round,
:

 

[domct203]

How much?
I opened the link, but didn't want to dig all through it to find the cost...

Between $164-$233, depending on finish.

Hard Pass ......

I can’t seem to find the S17 for sale anywhere but the K&P website. Not even Amazon has it.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Dang Dono, feeling bad for you.

There are tens of thousands of boosted small blocks running around on the streets that never have that thrust problem.

Unrelated question: What kind of oil do you use?

 

[Dono]

I'm pretty sure I have the thrust issue taken care of.
The ATF cooler line was definitely restricted, and that's fixed. Just in case the TC was an issue, that's replaced, High volume oil pump going in, and that will help keep the thrust oiled also (Help with the added oil requirements with the turbo oiling). This oil filter advertises a very large flow rate thru it, so that should help. The issue was definitely mechanical and no oil would have helped.
My old motor always had low oil pressure. I had moved up to a 10-40 weight oil to help oil pressure. I don't think I'll need the heavier weight now. That will be up to the engine builder to tell me. I used Joe Gibbs straight 30 for break in, and then moved to a non-synthetic with zddp in it. Unfortunately, nothing could protect the motor from the rear thrust pressures, or the cam from too light of spring pressures.

 

[CDW6212R]

There is an oil filer adapter from FMS that is similar to ours, it's just a 90* block adapter that an FL1A might work well in the Explorer. I got one to try, but plan to put it on my Mercury(back up vehicle) later.

A remote filter adapter is not hard to install, if the front bumper is removed. I mounted on on the passenger side for my trans, it was simple with three bolts, and protected behind the frame horn. I plan to mount the same kind on both sides of my trucks, and have two filters for the oil.

Note that normal filters for Fords clean to about 15 microns, 35 microns would be bad, that's a bunch of small particles getting through in the 15-35 micron size. The bypass filter I'll use from Amsoil, those clean to 2-3 microns, cleaner than new oil is.

BTW, there was an old spin on filter sized like the FL1A, that you can take apart easily and check, clean. I have one somewhere, the car I used it in made a mess to remove the filter, and I didn't put it back on. I think it was about $80 back in the 1980's. That would be great for frequent monitoring of condition for a new engine, the thrust bearing material etc. I think mine is in a box of parts in my spare room. I might run across it in the next month, I'll look.

 

[Dono]

I'd love to go with an a amsoil dual bypass system and add one of the above filters as the first oil filter. Huge cash, though.

The 15 micron is really debatable on the Ford filters. The lower the micron rating, the lower flow the filter (unless they go in to bypass right away). It's a trade off. High flow, and a consistent particle size (the paper filters do let large particles thru).

Reading at the yellowbullet on the engine builders that use these filters, but dont advertize they do tells me a lot about the filters.

 

[CDW6212R]

System 1 oil filter, it just came to me, is the filter I have someplace. Look at that on Summit, the new version they sell runs over $200, and they also say 35 microns. Mine is the original style, just like the small picture at the top of the search page. I'd say those would be comparable to that new brand this thread is about.

 

[gmanpaint]

I bought a new Mobile 1 brand, M1-210A for $15. I thought that was high. Lol

It is rated at 30 microns, for high capacity flow, with a steel center tube. Anti drain back valve to stop filter drain for engine starts.

Sounded pretty decent for the costs.

Big chief ran this when he was eating bearings left & right. No idea how much it is.

 

[Dono]

For me, the real feature is being able to look at whats inside the filter without taking 15 minutes cutting it apart.
Not to mention the blood.
It looks like a crime scene when I'm done.
That's the real selling point for me. I doubt I'd spend the cash on it otherwise.

 

[roscoe 0202]

I don't know if they still make them but Oberg was the filter of choice foe nascar in the 60's and 70's when I quit following
roscoe

 

[CDW6212R]

I don't know if they still make them but Oberg was the filter of choice foe nascar in the 60's and 70's when I quit following
roscoe

Good memory, and I have one of those also. That was a two piece sandwich type, with a flat square filter screen. Before they came up with the idea, I took mine to a machine shop and had another piece made, a center section. What I had made used two filters, the center was for the inlet, and I ran the oil out the two original sides, doubling the oil flow.

I used that Oberg filter I put together, once, and the threads in my center section were not machined very well. It leaked a bit from the threads, and I decided not to rebuild it then. I never got back to that either, I meant to fix it, and a short while later Oberg made a version similar to what I did.

 

[Dono]

I will say this is a quality made product.

 

[gmanpaint]

That's really nice looking! Looking forward to the review.

 

[domct203]

I will say this is a quality made product.

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How’s that new filter working out for you?

 

[Dono]

No clue.
No motor to use it on yet.

The guy building my engine was super excited, and wants to get a couple for his inventory to use for every engine he dyno's.

I'm really not sure if its worth the money unless you are always cutting your filters open to look for debris, I will be for the first while after I get my motor dropped back in.