Long time user just now Introducing myself | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Long time user just now Introducing myself

Sheepdog100

Member
Joined
September 15, 2016
Messages
14
Reaction score
1
City, State
Birmingham,Alabama
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer XLT 4.0L OC
Callsign
Sheepdog
Sup everyone. You can call me Sheepdog just here to learn and teach as much as possible and hopefully build an awesome Explorer at the end of the day with the help of the knowledge base here.:bounce:
 



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Welcome to this forum! I see that you joined two years ago but this is your first post.
Yeah I've been through some ups and downs with my explorer but now im ready to get her back on the road and running good. First step is trying to put in a new transmission that I have. Never replaced a transmission but am pretty mechanically inclined so should be able to figure it out with a little help.
 












It's not that hard to do on a RWD. Do you have 4WD? That requires more work since there's a transfer case.
No I have RWD.Ive been looking into doing it for a while but it seems pretty daunting its hard to find a video on someone removing a 5R55E from an Explorer.
 






Disconnect the battery, electrical plugs, drain the fluid, shift cable, starter, torque converter nuts, transmission mount, driveshaft, fill tube, and the bell housing bolts. It will take a while so have patience. Make sure that you have 3/8" & 1/2" drive sockets, pry bar, ramps, jack stands, drain pan, funnel, box wrenches, ratchets, magnetic dish for screws, extensions, universal adapters or swivel sockets. Check the condition of the flexplate, adapter, and the rear main seal. Keep enough fluid available before you start.
 






Disconnect the battery, electrical plugs, drain the fluid, shift cable, starter, torque converter nuts, transmission mount, driveshaft, fill tube, and the bell housing bolts. It will take a while so have patience. Make sure that you have 3/8" & 1/2" drive sockets, pry bar, ramps, jack stands, drain pan, funnel, box wrenches, ratchets, magnetic dish for screws, extensions, universal adapters or swivel sockets. Check the condition of the flexplate, adapter, and the rear main seal. Keep enough fluid available before you start.
I am definitely preparing to take the task on and appreciate the help I can use all that I can get. Would you recommend a lighter flexplate I have heard they have some benefits? Do you know of any?
 












I don't know how an iron gear could be made lighter unless they make it out of aluminum or magnesium which won't last too long since it's too soft a metal.
From looking at the one I viewed it was made out of less filler material but I also relooked and found out that it wont fit my trans anyway.
 






Disconnect the battery, electrical plugs, drain the fluid, shift cable, starter, torque converter nuts, transmission mount, driveshaft, fill tube, and the bell housing bolts. It will take a while so have patience. Make sure that you have 3/8" & 1/2" drive sockets, pry bar, ramps, jack stands, drain pan, funnel, box wrenches, ratchets, magnetic dish for screws, extensions, universal adapters or swivel sockets. Check the condition of the flexplate, adapter, and the rear main seal. Keep enough fluid available before you start.
Also are these instructions to be followed in order or are they in random order?
 












It's not in order. The Chilton & Haynes manuals have step by step instructions.
Im working at a steady pace and have fluid drained, 3 of 4 drive shaft bolts out, my shifter cable disconnected, my starter removed, and one torque converter nut removed. But I have hit a hiccup...I dont know how to spin my Harmonic balancer to expose my other TC nuts through the hole where the starter was. I have read that starting the vehicle(ish) works but thats not an option for me. But spinning it another way would be great if anyone knows any help would be appreciated.
 












You could turn the flexplate with a flat screwdriver or a special tool or turn the engine manually with a ratchet or a breaker bar.
Thanks I ended up using the pointed/flat end of a lug wrench and pushed it with little resistance after I dropped the driveshaft. Now my problem is trying to figure out if I have to drop the entire crossmember to get the tranny to tilt back. The way my exhaust runs it looks like I am because my cat runs right into the crossmember right above my torsion bar bolt. My question is will removing the portion of the crossmember where the torsion bar rest affect my suspension and if so do I need to be marking my torsion bar bolt position?
 












Did you take a look at a repair manual? They usually have a step by step procedure with photos or diagrams. It will help you avoid doing unnecessary work.
Hey Brooklyn update I got the old trans out and only had to seperate the center portion of the crossmember from the frame portion that houses the torsion bar and its adjustment screw.
 






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