Adventure trailer build thread. | Page 11 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Intro:
This is not a common build here on this forum, but this build is part of another long term build, that has been going on for 10 years now. I feel it is fitting to share this build here, since so much of it's companion is documented on EF. This thread is as detailed as my patience has allowed. I want to be able to help others that might be searching for methods/ideas, and "how to" for much of the build. I do belong to other Overland forums, and will link this thread from them, to share with others.

About:
This trailer is a short compact, stout, capable, high clearance, Swiss army knife of a camper. It is not a popup camper, nor is it a sleep in hard shell camper. It will offer all the creature comforts those do, but in a little different fashion. This style trailer, makes you enjoy the outdoors. You cook/dine, lounge & hot shower outside, but you sleep inside a roomy insulated roof top tent, 78" off the ground.

The tow rig:

The Black Hole

The entire build for the tow rig, has always been with this build in mind, and it has been extremely difficult to keep that to myself, and why it was built the way it was. It is a purpose build, with a specific objective.

The Objective:
To be the living quarters and storage, for off the beaten path journeys yet to come.
To have everything needed to sustain myself, and a few others, out in the middle of nowhere, only accessible by unpaved trails, such as old mining roads. Hauling all the boondocking gear behind, instead of overloading the vehicle's suspension. To minimize setup and tear down times for camping, and have camping items readily accessible, whenever needed.

The trailer needs to be capable of following wherever the tow rig goes. Matching tires, axle width, and the same, if not more height clearance as the tow rig. Sleeping & shelter for 4 comfortably, sustainable cold food storage, food prep space, gas powered cooking, AC/DC power supply, and hot showers for days at a time, are all the requirements for this build.

Goal:

This is the other half of that long term build plan. I am slow at the building and fabricating process, and this will take about a year to complete. Updates will happen as the build progresses. I have entered the 7th month of the build, and expect another 3-4 months left to get it road worthy at the least. Just like anything I have done, it never ends, and improvements will happen, as I gain experience & knowledge with what works best for me.

Baby steps:

This is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this. I am bound to make mistakes, and corrections/improvements are all but a guarantee. I do have a final vision for what I want this to be, as it has been a thought process for many many years now. Please bear with me as this thread goes. Some items won't make sense until it comes to be. I am not going to tell you how things should be done. I am just sharing how I did things on this build. Agree/disagree, like it or leave it, it's mostly a learning experience by mixing what I know, and what I had to learn, to get things as I want them. Definitely not for everybody. Heck, I know I will change things down the road, as I find ways to improve on it. That is part of the fun!



Why am I building this?
I'm Tired of ground tent camping all my life. Tired of the time it takes to set up & tear down. Tired of all the tedious packing, unpacking, moving things from place to place after every trip. Plus, I don't want a motor home that can't leave the roads.
I plan on getting lost a few times, venturing out to places unknown and unseen. We live in a large, beautifully gifted geographical location on the planet. Our own back yard is filled with amazing spectacles. Places that can only be seen on dirt trails, off the beaten paths, not by roads covered in pavement, and delivery trucks. Exploring into the dark hours of the night, and setting camp in the middle of nowhere, instead of heading back. We can traverse a lot of ground this way.

Kudos:

A few friends helped with this build, and I couldn't have got as far as it is without them. Special thanks to James, Matt, Kurt, Ryan, & Jacob. You guys rock!

A warning from the author:

This thread contains: Long drawn out boring tedious explanations, Dry humor, embarrassing anecdotes, speech in the 3rd person, countless pictures, and some content is for Mature audiences. There is a little for everybody here, but be warned, this is not your typical build thread, and not from your typical builder. I am not responsible for your emotional mood swings, due to reading this material. ;)

Edit: Progress pics as of 10/15/18. Getting closer every day!

Dr washed.jpg

RTT on front pass side full view.jpg


First real use!

Camp set 1.jpg

Camp set 2.jpg

Bat wing awning up.jpg



Current specs:
Main Frame- 12'.5"L x 48"W
Whopping 25" of ground clearance with 35" tires
Fenders- 72" Long x 14.00" Wide tapered to 0.00" in front
Cabin- 48"W x 72"L x 36"H
Overall Width - 76"
Overall Height - 68" Roof Rack lowered - 78" Roof Rack lifted
Overall Height- 80" With RTT stowed - 140" RTT open & rack lifted
Dry weight- 2300#'s

2"x3"x3/16" Steel Tube Frame, with 1 pc center tongue beam from front to rear.
3500 Lb Timbren Axleless Independent suspension
10" Electric brakes
35"x12.5" Goodyear MTR's w/kevlar & matching spare
15"x10" Mickey Thompson black satin aluminum wheels
Lock N Roll off road articulating Hitch
14 Ga steel cabin walls & roof
3/4" Ply floor, stained, sealed, & 5 topcoats of acrylic gloss clear
Commercial 60 Mil Waterproof TPO membrane under belly skin
12 Ga steel Fenders on Sq frame & 2" x 3/16" Round slider tubes
Spare tire mount on cabin front
16 Ga swing out 4'W x 2'D x 24"H Tapered Tongue box
16 Ga Side boxes with Tapered front compartments
Telescoping Roof rack (12") with scissor jack actuation
Two rear 31" BAL C leveling jacks & swivel plate base
Dual 5K swivel weld ring flat plate base Tongue jacks
ARK dual wheel offroad 750 HD Tongue jack
Slider system for hidden Solar panel storage
Dual 11 lb Propane tank storage mounts
Quick Disconnect Water supply
All Stainless & Aluminum hardware, where applicable

Interior:
Front compartment 48"Wx24"Lx36"H
Two side doors, and upper 12 ga shelf with expanded metal rear wall
Rear Compartment 48"Wx48"Lx36"H
3/4" PT wood flooring, custom finish, clear satin marine topcoats.
Tie downs on frame tubes
1-60W Led rear cabin, 3-10w Led front cabin
Wiring plumbed with flex and hard conduit
Split cabin with full rear cabin deck, tie down racks

Power:
Dual Group 31 MAGM deep cycle 110 AH batteries
110 shore
100W Renogy Solar
Charge:
NOCO Marine 110v 20 amp onboard Dual smart charger
30 amp Renogy MPPT Solar charger
140 amp traveling vehicle charge, via smart charger
Soon to come: 40 amp-500 watt DC-DC charger from alternator
Portable Valence 80Ah Lifepo4 Solar Gen w/inverter

Accessories:
4 season 23Zero 73" Walkabout RTT W/ large Annex room - telescopic ladder w/rung pads- Ext shoe bags-Led lights- 3" thick x Ca King mattress w/anti condensation mat.
Oversized high density 3" thick 56" x 96" mattress. Cold weather cover, additional secondary rain fly.
Rhino Rack 8.5' Bat Wing 270* Wrap around Awning (2019 version)
5Liter - 1.5 gpm - On demand instant hot water heater
ARB/ViAir 150 psi onboard air system
Ready Welder II
Slide out Kitchen/storage- 1/2" Baltic Birch, sealed/stained/clear coats 350# slides
ICECO VL45 portable fridge/freezer - AC/DC
Custom powder coated locking Fridge slide out.
Wireless controlled winch (upper roof rack storage, rear bumper hitch receiver)
Rear door interior fold down table
Dual 11 lb propane tanks (rear fender mounted)
Marine control panel, rocker switches w/circuit breakers, 12v battery meter, Aux outlets
30 gallon fresh water tank & 3.0 gpm instant on pump w/ inline filter
Trailer Harness Connection lock box
First Aid field kit (large)
Dual Fire Extinguisher's

LED Lighting:
Front- 2-45w dual pods w/amber fogs
Sides- 4-18w pods
Rock- 4-10w blue IP 67
Cabin- 1-60w 3 setting round rear compartment ceiling fixture, 3-10w pods front compartment
Tails/brakes/turns- 30w 6" oval
Reverse- 30w 6" oval
Markers- 3w red & amber
7 pin RV trailer harness & J box

Tongue box build:
Full box tube frame & 16 ga sheet, w/plate and tube gussets
Dual battery mount tray
Red oak Shelf for Noco dual 20 amp charger, 20amp solar charger, 12v systems (3) circuit breakers, fuse panel, main power cutoff switch
3 space divider walls & front storage shelf
Gas lift struts, 2"x 3/16" thick Aluminum lid hinge
Dual SS locking paddle latch handles
Dual 4" SS louvered vents w/bug screens
Pass thru power cord outlet with weatherproof door hatch
NOCO 110v wall power plug w/ weatherproof cover
2k locking latch to frame, & dual 7/16" clevis pins to frame
5/8" spindle for swivel action, for spare tire removal/security

Paint:
Frame- Chassis saver gloss black
Cabin Exterior- Acid etch primer & Single stage Gloss Black automotive 2k urethane
Cabin Interior- SW DTM Gloss White
Side & T boxes, All doors- Urethane Epoxy primer & Single stage Gloss Black 2k Urethane
Roof rack- Chassis saver gloss black
Fenders-Acid etch primer underneath & Urethane base topside, Black Raptor liner w/grip additive

Trim: Aluminum



Lots to add to that list up there, and I will as the build progresses. :)

I hope you enjoy the thread, as much as I have enjoyed the build itself.
 



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Last week was a busy one for me between the ole 9-5er, and a weekend spent working on the tow pig with friends.

I did get the RTT ready for install, and we got it up on the rack, and bolted down. I need to adjust it a little, before final positioning. Not a big deal here, but....

We placed the RTT on in the driveway, then quickly did a squinted one eye neck snap, after looking at the height of this, and the door opening. The ladder had to come off. Tape measure, now said they matched in height. lol Ok, air down to 4 psi, and pushed it back in. Ladder won't go back on (bolted) until it's time to use it for an adventure.

Next up will be the awning mounts, and get that on. It has Led lights built into it, so it has to be wired as well. Already have the wire for it coming thru a cable gland for it, and to the panel switch.
Edit: Awning is installed, and wired up. Tent was centered over the screw jack, bolted tight, and cover installed. Looking pretty slick!

No pics yet, but it will be worth the wait.

I realized last night, that I only have 1/4" of room left between tire and fender center tube brace, after max up travel on the axles. I might remove the center tube brace to gain another 1" for mud/rocks/snow stuck to the tires. This isn't really a big deal, as there are other bracing and the 12 ga fenders are fully welded to the 1.75" outer tubes, and 1" tubes at the main frame. I have a lot of work left to do on these fenders as is, and this will just be a minor thing. Just glad I noticed now, not on a trail.
 



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These tent & awning pics are going to have to hold you & I until I get it out and opened up.

On without the cover, and showing the green 3.5" thick mattress. It's folded in half when stored.

RTT no cover pass side view of mattress.jpg


Front close up cover on

RTT Front close up.jpg


Rear close up

RTT close up rear view.jpg


Pass rear corner

RTT on pass rear side med view.jpg


Dr side rear corner

RTT on dr side view rear.jpg


Dr side

RTT on dr side med view.jpg


Full frontal (heh heh)

RTT on full frontal view.jpg



Gap between tent and awning for zipper access

RTT gap to Awning front view.jpg


Full view front dr side angle

RTT on far view dr side front.jpg


Pass side full view (blurry, again...sorry!)

RTT pass side view full.jpg


What the RTT looks like open (stolen pic from CVT site) Without the annex room on

Shasta-EV-without Annex.jpg


With annex on. Ladder is inside this room, so you can come down and not be in the elements to change, and big enough not to step on any guests sleeping. It has a thick vinyl floor, a door on each side, and completely sealed up to the top. I purchased and installed an extra track, to keep the cover on, and not have to use the same track for both cover & annex. Speeds up setup/tear down times, and adds convenience. This is opened to the rear, where mine will open to the pass side, and awning opens on the drivers side, and wraps 270* around the rear of the trailer.

Mt Shasta EV Pioneer with annex on.jpg

Mt.-Shasta-EV.jpg


And the severe weather cover on

RTT CVT Cold-Weather-Cover.jpg


It has a rainfly as well, and both tent & fly, have clear vinyl/screens skylights, for an open sky view from inside. Led lighting inside it as well.

Stargazer1 open interior view.png


This is the awning. I opted for the red perimeter stripe for a visual effect instead of one solid color. It has LED lights built into the arms, and a switch wired in to the panel already. I made a harness for it last night, using the weather proof quick disconnects. Awning side harness stows away inside when zipped up. Its 13 foot long on the side, and 13 foot across the rear. Self supporting, but does come with high wind tie down straps. I made strap points to the corner led pod light brackets just for these, and have special re-bar type stakes for them too.

ARQ4WD 270 Awning.jpg





One of two 11 lb pancake propane tank & mount. Still have to modify to shorten wall side to bring it in another 2". Will be one on each side.

Dr side propane tank & mount.jpg


LED Pod with smoked lens. 4 total, on each corner

LED pod with smoked cover rear dr side.jpg


That's it for today kiddo's!
 






Started on the fenders yesterday. It's time to get them prepped for the Raptor liner.

Stripped the temporary chassis paint off the Passenger underside, and removed the center (front to back) support tube. Gained another 1.5" tire clearance.
Masked it all off, and sprayed the self etching primer to the raw steel. That only took me 9 hours, on my back, on cold concrete.

My back, shoulders, and neck, feel like I was in a car accident this morning from doing that. Going to try to attempt the other side today. Pics later tonight,.... hopefully.
 






Get a couple of those $5 movers blankets on your next visit to Harbor Freight. Lay on those instead of concrete. Throw away when they get too ugly.
 






Get a couple of those $5 movers blankets on your next visit to Harbor Freight. Lay on those instead of concrete. Throw away when they get too ugly.

That's a good idea. I actually have one of those. Thanks.

I haven't laid anything down, as I am making such a mess stripping this chassis paint off, I have been sweeping it all up as I go so I am not rolling around in it constantly. lol

Think I have over stretched my quads, sitting ass to ankles, shins to floor. Walking around with rubber legs today. The area above the wheels, are too high to lay down, and too low to kneel upright. I can't sit Indian style on my ass and work at the same time, or I will fall backwards. lmao! It's Hell getting old.

2.5 hrs of scraping so far, and 1/4 done. This side isn't coming off like the other. A lot of it will have to come off with the paint remover wheel and grinder. Time for the dust mask.
 






Sounds like its the same height as parts of my Explorer. Too high to reach lying on my back, too low to sit up underneath. Sometimes, I rest my head on a 6x6 block of wood to keep from getting a sore neck. Sounds weird, but it was there and it works.
 






Another long day, to wrap up another weekend on this thing. Only carnage was a paint chip in my eye, and a good flush, with some Q-tip pokes to get it out. I wish the eye didn't have a memory for pain, because it still feels like it's in there, but it's not.

Not much to share here really, with this work, and kind of a boring update. Ahh well, for documentations sake......

Way way back before the trailer made it home from the frame build, it had the chassis paint put on the underside of the fenders, just to keep it rust free, knowing it had to be removed someday. Knowing it would be a long time, before it was ready for the liner, this was an easy solution, so we could move on to the next step back then. In hindsight, I wish we had just did the undersides, like the top, with the acid etch primer, and body paint. This was a pain to remove, but it worked. No rust was found this weekend.

The Raptor liner can't go over this chassis stuff, as it doesn't bond to the metal like a bonding primer does. It would flake off, if I went over it with the heavy liner, and the tires are going to be hammering it with debris. I actually don't like it all, but James (Body shop guy) said the stuff he uses will work just fine for it. One day, out of the blue, he sent me pictures of the frame on the rack, and painted with it. Guess he had a slow day, and was bored.


Any hoot....
After cutting off the center tube under the skins, and grinding the welds off, I began scraping it off with 1" putty knives, (flex and stiff). They got the majority of it, then out came the brushless grinder with sanding discs, wire wheels, and paint stripper wheel. Hand sand with 80g blocks, cleaned off with the air hose, then a final acetone bath. Funsville.

Masked off what needed for spraying the acid etch primer, and shot it all a couple of times. It's now ready for the topsides to be scuffed/cleaned/masked, for the Raptor Liner coating. Will try to find time during the week, if not, next weekend.

20181013_110640.jpg

20181014_103550.jpg

20181014_103621.jpg

20181014_103535.jpg


When the tires are on, you can't even see inside the fender wells. I didn't have to be as picky in here, and I did leave a couple of booger welds alone, as they won't be seen. It might haunt me in my sleep, knowing they are there tho. lol

I have a fresh tube of body seam filler to use here and there, before the liner goes on, to seal some things up tight.

Summer has officially left, and I think we might get 2 weeks of fall in, before it turns to winter here. 90's with AC on last week, and lows in the 30's with furnace on now. Fall is my favorite season, and I feel ripped off. bah...
 






Keep it up with the weather changing while you can. We just bean to cool off, lows in the 50 range. here we'll get about two weeks of Fall, and then it will get warm again in late October of November, and then go full cold. We're just getting Fall weather now, the leaves are beginning to drop.
 






Dang, nobody noticed the radius bends on the square tubes. Lol

Temps tend to bounce around here too, but the last couple of years, it just rained non stop, then froze until spring.

If I can find a decent cover for this thing, I can put it outside, when I need to heat the shop, to fabricate and paint.

Started masking for the liner work tonight. One side done, and put a fork in me. Mondays are a nightmare at work and I just want to shut my brain down for a rest.

Hello..... couch!!!
 






Last 7 days have been insane at work. Haven't had any time really to work on this. Only managed to finish the masking, and get the sanding done for the Raptor liner. Man, that was a weird feeling sanding with 60 grit on new paint. This week has already shaped to be just like last week, so not much other than maybe getting two coats of liner on. Maybe....

Dr fender sanded for liner 1.jpg
 






This is coming along real nice. Thanks for posting pictures of the progress.

I hope the busy at work means money and not cleanup.
 






This is coming along real nice. Thanks for posting pictures of the progress.

I hope the busy at work means money and not cleanup.

Thank you sir!

Busy managing ongoing jobs, dealing with problems and coming up with solutions, preparing for a convention this Thursday, reeling in new clients, estimating new jobs for a chance, working with nightmare Insurance adjusters, and dealing with all our labor crews. Fighting to keep an income going for this winter, and trying to make **** happen, ain't easy here.

I need a hat with more than 6 bills on it lately.
 






That thing is sexy! I've been tossing around the idea of an adventure trailer like this since I switch vehicles so often.

Sounds like its the same height as parts of my Explorer. Too high to reach lying on my back, too low to sit up underneath. Sometimes, I rest my head on a 6x6 block of wood to keep from getting a sore neck. Sounds weird, but it was there and it works.

A partially deflated boat fender works well too.
 






Bats, when you get one built, you can meet us at the Gateway Arch, and join in on crazy 2 week adventures out west in the Rocky's, Deserts, and Canyon lands! Gonna need a 302 in that B2 tho. :p

I need to make a height adjustable creeper. A strong pneumatic ram like used on an office chair to a plate, and to a 4 wheel dolly. Two rams going on an angled plane to get from 4" to 2 foot high. Lol
 






When you/we win the big lottery, then you can pay someone else to do the hard work. Wishful thinking, nobody I know has won a lottery, it's always someone traveling through the state.
 






Wouldn't that be nice? After family is set for life, I would throw bash on a cruise ship, and take everybody that has ever followed along, in my crazy build threads. I hear they rebuilt the Titanic, and the Maiden voyage is going to be the exact same route as the originals. I smell a new movie. Titanic, part duh?

I grabbed a ticket for the Mega & powerball today. Over $2B combined up for grabs. Crazy!!
 






You couldn't pay me a $B to go on the next Titanic. I'd buy a radio station and cut out all of the commercials.
 






I think you're having a positive influence on Sandi. She has gone from "Why would you want a smaller camper?", to "we could sell the camper we have to help fund a tiny camper build" to "I think we should build a small camper (teardrop) together". Of course this most likely means I'll be building while she chooses colors, etc. (sorry to sound sexist, but...) But it will mean easier financing. ;)

PS I went back to page one and the basic platform shown on the second post is exactly what I need for my build, with perhaps slightly different dimensions to accommodate the sleep in vs sleep on styles.
 






Sweet! We knew she would come around if you kept on her! lol That would be a great couples project for sure. One thing I have learned, is women are far more detailed orientated then men will ever be. She would be a great asset in the build.


Suspension choice will matter how you build the frame tho. Regular axle/leafs or Independent suspension. Choose this first, and build around it. Other options for the frame:
1) Instead of having the center main tube go all the way back to the rear, stop it about 1/2 back from front of box (not tongue). This leaves a space for a water storage tanks tucked up under, after the beam.
2) Have the main front to back tongue beam, under the boxed frame, instead of thru like I did. This gives you a place to run all the electrical and plumbing along side it, and out of harms way. Mine all had to be routed on top of frame, and thru the front of the main box for routing. Routed under, you can bring wires up thru the flooring, where needed.
Just remember that the wheel wells have to be around 14-16" deep, and you want to keep the trailer no wider than the Explorer's width. Mine is a dead even match, with a 48" wide cabin and 12.5" wide tires, with a 2" gap between them and the frame rails, and the fender tubes push past them 2".

Once the frame is figured out for all that, it goes pretty quick, as you just building upwards now.
 



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Quit working mid afternoon today, so I could get the fenders finished. Temps was around 59* this afternoon, and the heaters warmed it up to 70* easily. Perfect temps, and had to take advantage of it.

U-Pol Raptor Liner was the product of choice for this. UV protection, no rubber tire chunks to gas out and fail, (like most other bed liners), 2 part / 3:1 catalyst Urethane system, that toughens & strengthens the surfaces. It comes in either roll on or spray on. The only difference is in the packaging and what comes with the kits. It's the same juice in both.

I was going to spray it on with my cup gun HVLP, but since I wanted to add the silica grip additive, I needed the 2.0mm tip, and couldn't find it anywhere. :( I got the roll on kit, as it was cheaper than the spray kit that comes with more juice, and a shutz spray gun. I read up on some reviews, and people said the supplied texture rollers fell apart fast, if your doing anything but flat surfaces. Well, there is definitely more than flat on these fenders! I knew exactly what I needed. Picked up a textured roller made by Rustoleum for their Re-Store decking paint. Cut it into 3 small rollers with the hacksaw, wrapped a 4" roller frame ends with tape to make it snug, slipped one of them on, and Bam! Bob's your painter.

After mixing 1 of the 2 cans of juice for 2 minutes, I brushed everything I couldn't fit the mini Raptor rollers into. Used 1 roller (comes with 2) per fender on the 1st coat. That's as far as they got before falling apart. Good enough for me. Time for a break. This stuff needs a 60 minute flash over time @70* before you can apply the 2nd coat.

(Cue the music from Jeopardy) ..................................

Ding!

Mixed up the 2nd bottle of juice, and used the Re-store roller for the undersides of both fenders. This roller has an initial heavier texture to it. Trick to using it, is after you lay it all off, let it set for about 1 min, then lay it all off again nice and easy with straight strokes, from edge to edge, the same direction. Bam! It's a match.com. That **** will fly straighter than dive bombing falcon.

Ok, at this point, I added the black grip additive to the bottle, and shook it like a Poloroid picture. Tops and tubes got the 2nd grip coat, and laid it all off the same way, making sure not to leave any lines, or visual patterns. It would have been so much easier to spray this, but this actually worked pretty damn good.

Wasn't wearing my respirator, and it was time to get the hell out of the Nazi gas chamber. I was so high, I could have been duck hunting with a rake, and some fresh air was the cure. Let that be a lesson to you kids, always wear protection.......Uh.... yeah, just do as I say, not as I do, and your kids won't have 3 eyes, and 10 thumbs. K?

I had about 4 oz left in each 32 oz bottle. You only have 60 mins to work this stuff once mixed, then the rest is trasharoo. It cleans up with acetone or lacquer thinners. The kit came with 6, yes....6 pairs of thick black 10mm latex gloves, and one pair lasted thru the entire deal. The 2 thick roller trays was the best disposable trays I ever seen, and shaped for 5" rollers. I mean U-Pol gives you some quality stuff for your buck, and was pleasantly surprised for a foreign product.

Some after pics

Raptor materials.jpg
RL 1.jpg
RL 2.jpg
RL 3.jpg
RL 4.jpg
RL 5.jpg
RL 6.jpg
RL 7.jpg
 






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