The Black Hole

Whats In A Name?

It was hot humid august night. The winds have all but vanished. I was doing my best to keep the sweat out of my eyes. The A/C was dying in my 94 Explorer, lovingly named "Pugly", and there was no relief in sight. I decided it was time to stop throwing good money into bad. I was gonna do the unthinkable,.......I was going to commit the most heinous crime of them all! I was going to trade Pugly in for a newer model! Oh the heart break! The insanity of it all! I couldn't believe the thoughts were even going through my head.

I managed to get the old girl back home, to her resting place. She seemed at ease in her familiar surroundings. I had to come up with an explanation to let her know of my evil plan. So i just gave her that old wink and grin that she likes to see from me as we made it back home from another day of adventure in the treacherous Midwestern terrain. I did my best in hiding my cynical thoughts, as I walked around to her rear flank and gave her that little pat on her bumper, as I always have when we part for the night.

The next morning I gave her a real good bath, cleaned behind her mirrors, and brushed her grill. She still looked pretty good for her age. Oh sure she had the tell tale signs, gravity has got its firm grip on her, and I am not the best cosmetics guy in the world. she didn't seem to mind too much, she still kept her nose up and drove with pride.

After looking at many vehicles I just could not find anything that had the same feel as my old girl. Then it happened! Was I seeing a mirage? Was I so desperate to find another rig that I was blinded by insanity? I found my replacement! I quickly made a sale with the owner, and brought it home.

When I pulled in the driveway, my heart sunk as I looked into the yard to see my 94 looking at me in disbelief. She was sunning herself in the grass looking all shiny and then, she just looked away from me. My heart was tearing in two. I parked the new rig, and walked up to her and gave her a soft spoken "Hello". No reply. I tried to tickle her mirrors, no response. The tension was so great, you could have cut it with a 32 count fine tooth hacksaw. I had to explain to her that she gave me great satisfaction for many years, and we made a terrific team together, but the time has come for her to just relax and enjoy her final days. She finally revved up, and understood, her days as my work horse has ended (so we thought).

I introduced her to her daily driver replacement. The shiny new(er) next generation of her kind. The 95 Explorer XLT. She warmed right up to it. Before you know it they were swapping stories. Now I had to ask her for help. I needed a name for the new ride,
so I went to find her, and what did I see? Those two were grill to grill in the driveway. rubbing chrome! I had to get the water hose out and break them up! Sheesh, she was acting like a girl at the prom dance! I let the name thing drop for awhile.

The new(er) Ex needed to get its shots, and a physical. When I got the word on it's health, I about had a coronary. "What do you mean Doc"! I yelled. "Your kidding right"? I asked. The Doc just shook his head and gathered his tools. As he walked away, He said it had a 50/50 chance of survival. My stomach knotted up, my teeth ground, my heart raced, and I could feel the energy build up as I let it all out, "Why! Why! Why did this have to happen"! I screamed.

The prognostic exam from the doc was as such. It had a blown steering rack, the shocks were gone, the brakes were non existent, front sway bar was cracked in half, the 3rd brake light was out, none of the windows or the moon roof would work, the door locks were broke, the rear end LS clutch pack was burned up, the tires were all in need of replacement, the spare was a Firestone recall and flat, the engine had a nasty tick to it, the TPS was shot, the MAF was corroded, the battery had a dead cell in it, the hood shocks were not working, the rear hatch lock was jammed up and you couldn't open it with out a key in the lock, The carpet was stained to no repair, the rear window wiper didn't want to work, and we could not tell what year its engine swap came from. it was a mess, to say the least.

I went in the house to get my gun. I was gonna just put it out of its misery right there and then. I suddenly realized I was out of ammo, from shooting at the jeep that was in my field. I went to the computer to find a place to buy some cheap ammo, and I stumbled across this website, explorerforum.com that said it could heal any ford Explorer no matter what the problems were! I jumped for joy, I could not believe the things I was reading! I wore out the search button, asked a bunch of questions. I quickly broke out my pen and paper, feverishly writing down things as I was learning! I had found a cure for everything that was wrong with my new transport. It was a Godsend, an angel from the SUV heavens!

I sprung into action. I worked day and night, Pugly was right by my side the entire time, helping me in any way she could. I never seen this side of her, and was really amazed at how well she handled the pressure. She gently squeegeed the sweat out off my fore head with her soft wiper blades as I worked away. After an entire weekend of work, I collapsed. I needed some rest, and so did the 95. The sun crested over the hills, and awoke me to a new day. I shuffled my feet to the window facing the driveway, peeled the drapes gently back, and peered out at the 95. WOW!
It had a its color back, and was looking great! Now as the time went on, (and most of my paychecks), and the selling of almost everything I own, for funds to get the 95 to its former glory.

After some time to reflect on this name thing, I strolled up and whispered into Pugly's passenger side mirror, and she giggled with delight.

I climbed up onto the front bumper in my pajamas and robe half opened, with a cup of coffee in one hand and the daily newspaper in the other, I raised my arms with out stretched hands and proclaimed the new name of the 95.

BEHOLD...........THE BLACK HOLE!!!!!!!! (Then the neighbor yelled at me to close my robe)



The End................(or is it just the beginning?)


Actually, only some of this really happened.




View attachment 324381

 

[KurtECV]

X2 on that @Dono

I think the biggest hurdle to figure out, is what components and electrical is from 95 and what is from 98.

That's where proper documention should have been done and provided to the customer.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto. This is reminding me that I have to do more for documenting my modifications. I didn't do anything but notes for my 99, but that truck is mostly OEM parts and wiring. For my 98 Limited, that may have a few things to document, but my 92 Mark VII will be a radically unique wiring harness. I'll have to make lots of detailed notes for that. It will be a combination of wiring, an entire 2002 Mustang harness set, a 98ish Explorer engine harness, hopefully an Explorer GEM module for the power monitoring circuits etc, a 97 Town Car memory seat/mirror module etc. It is great when you finish something, but the doing is a whole different thing. Wiring is tough, and has to be planned well, and slowly done right.

 

[gmanpaint]

Wish I had overcome my insecurities with electrical work long ago, and learned all I could. I envy those of you that are confident with it.

Anything I know now, has only been because I have been forced to learn.

Kind of like my trade skills learned over a few decades. Not everybody feels comfortable doing it, and is why I could feed the family.

Being that all of this, just started as a hobby and has progressed to a way of life now, I need to learn more, to become self sufficient. That's how everything in life has been for me, no reason to stop now. Lol

 

[KurtECV]

I never wanted to get good at wiring, especially diagnostics. GM has such a problem with "terminal fretting"(microscopic corrosion on terminals that causes high resistance) ever since they switched from gold plated terminals due to the cost of gold.

I was just thrown into it and forced to learn it for work.

 

[KurtECV]

Something that might help you understand wiring is think of it in a way that you understand... Something with your trade.

You know plumbing better than I do. Maybe think of it that way, everything has to get from Point A to Point B to Point C

Point A might be your battery (Water Main?)

Point B might be the instrument panel fuse box (water heater?)

And Point C might be the ignition switch (master bath tub?)

There might be pipes (wires) that branch off between Point B and Point C like the headlamp switch (kitchen sink?) ECT but the hot water (voltage/amperage) still needs to get to where need to go.

That all makes sense in my head... And it might confuse everyone else

 

[gmanpaint]

That's a great analogy, but I know there is way more to it. Lol

I get lost with the double hot, redundant ground fault, and pathways that branch and loop. Hell, I barely understand relays. Lol

Basic wiring I'm alright with, but diodes, resistors and circuitry boards are way above my grasp.

 

[gmanpaint]

Going to add to the previous post for the fuse ID, as I found the ID for 1-18, and now have the full fuse box layout. Comparing the fuses in this box, to the 98's diagram, I found a few that doesn't match up to stock. Some of these really jump out at me here. These 25a fuses instead of a 7.5a/10a is a brow raiser for me. I imagine that #23 was used to add a circuit, and possibly one of the Acc add on's. Will edit after I dig a little deeper here. I'm going to put the stock fuses in these locations to see if they blow. Something tells me that the 25a fuses was used, because the lower called for fuses. was blowing for what ever reason.

Fuse # ............Presently has...............Stock
5......................25................................10
20....................10................................7.5
23....................25................................NOT USED
34....................25................................7.5
36....................25................................7.5

1-18 fuses

19-36 fuses

Fuse locations

Actual fuse panel

 

[KurtECV]

Interesting...

Yeah I'd replace them with the correct fuse and see what happens.

A lower amp rated fuse doesn't hurt things, as long as that circuit does not need that many amps with all components working at the same time.

BUT a larger amp fuse is not a bad thing *ONLY IF* the wiring itself was upgraded to the appropriate (larger) size.

A lot like the BIG 3 upgrade with the alternators (that might only be a bronco thing, I'm not sure.)

 

[gmanpaint]

You mean like those thicker red wires crimped to those thinner stock wires that burned up? Lol Maybe I shouldn't try to replace them, could burn the truck down!

What are the odds those burned wires are hooked to a 25 amp fuse, and burned because of it? Hmm...

So after looking at the 95 & the 98 fuses, I see that the 98 has a BOO & a BPP, where as the 95 only has a BOO on the brake pedal. There is only one switch on this brake pedal. Maybe why it was spliced into? This rig never had a trailer brake controller installed on it, and that is the only other reason I can think of why it would be spliced into. This spliced wire is newly wrapped (electrical tape) into that pedal harness.

 

[KurtECV]

You mean like those thicker red wires crimped to those thinner stock wires that burned up? Lol Maybe I shouldn't try to replace them, could burn the truck down!

What are the odds those burned wires are hooked to a 25 amp fuse, and burned because of it? Hmm...

So after looking at the 95 & the 98 fuses, I see that the 98 has a BOO & a BPP, where as the 95 only has a BOO on the brake pedal. There is only one switch on this brake pedal. Maybe why it was spliced into? This rig never had a trailer brake controller installed on it, and that is the only other reason I can think of why it would be spliced into. This spliced wire is newly wrapped (electrical tape) into that pedal harness.

I dont think going from a 10 amp fuse to a 25 amp fuse would cause a wire to burn up like that, maybe make the insulation bubble a bit, but to have them burn completely up like that makes me think they shorted those wires to ground (chassis or a ground circuit in the vehicle)

Interesting on the BPP sensor, That may have something to do with the wire tapped into the pedal harness... anyone's guess, you will just have to trace that wire back to where ever is goes. PITA!! But it could just be tapped into for a power or ground circuit.

I would find out what circuit it is that its tapped into (check the BOO pinout) and figure out if you are dealing with a voltage circuit, or a ground circuit, that will give you a better idea of what you are dealing with.

 

[CDW6212R]

Trace the BOO brake wire carefully. That's a critical circuit, and people tap into it often for any alarm or starter device. That's a wire you don't want to discover messed with, especially with those fast(cutting) crimps.

AS an example, I bought several wiring harnesses last year for my 92 Lincoln project(from 2001-02 Mustangs). I passed on two dash harnesses because one posted pictures showing the bad fast crimps on it, and another person wouldn't get me pictures. I found one that hadn't been modified, that will be a much better starting point for my car.

 

[gmanpaint]

I have yet to install the new proportional trailer brake control unit. I have to tap into the BOO for it, since there is no BPP to tap into.
I will remove the wire from the dash side connector to make a solid connection on it when the time comes to install it. .

I didn't think of an aftermarket alarm, since the stock alarm has always worked. It has never had a remote starter either, so the trailer brake is the only thing that made sense to me, IF this was not tapped into by that shop. I don't remember seeing it tapped into before, and the tape wrap looks fresh to me, so the assumption is, they tapped into it for the non existing BPP or for something else. Who knows why at this point, it is what it is, and I have to deal with it.

I was joking when I mentioned the rig burning down, by swapping the fuses. lol It would be the opposite, as the smaller fuse would blow first.

 

[CDW6212R]

People usually put bigger fuses in when they tap into a circuit, they assume the wires are big enough for the greater current. So it's a worry, not a sure failure, but you just want to check it all out in case.

 

[gmanpaint]

@CDW6212R , when you get chance, can you look at your 98 brake pedal and see what switches you have on it? 1 or 2?

I have no idea what others should have as I only have this 95 to go by.

Thanks!

 

[Turdle]

I don't know if you looked on rockauto yet to compare images, but I just did. It looks like for 95 it is just a 2 wire plug unit, for 98 it is a multi wire connector, and just for giggles I checked rockauto's parts list for 2000 mountaineer, and it appears to be switched back to the earlier 95- 2 wire design with a harness included.

However, I just checked my 2000 and it has one switch with a 5 wire connector like what is listed for 98, so the rockauto part listing for 2000 mounty is not accurate IMO. From Memory though on our older 98 it should be the 5 wire harness on one plastic switch.
The BOO switch provides input for brake lights, cruise control , and the torque converter-transmission, plus the shifter lock.


Hope this helps.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks for that Jon. (where ya been?)

So there is only one switch not two. Kind of what I was hoping to hear. Didn't make sense to me to have two switches, and the extra wires just means it is both the BOO & BPP in one.

So maybe that splice they added when they swapped that harness/switch is for a diff circuit, that the 95's dash harness didn't have? Ugh, my head hurts.

I will get under there, and try to trace that spliced wire and see where it goes. I imagine to the fuse box, just need to see if it running to the fuse that blows instantly when depressing the pedal.

 

[Turdle]

thoughts-no particular order just throwing this out

no high mount light and brake pedal blowing fuse might be connected?

you might pull the brake light bulbs then see if the fuse still blows.

could be a short circuit to ground in the shift lever lock circuit.

you might also unplug the brake pressure switch and press pedal to see if the fuse still blows.

disconnecting the horn fuse should disable the cruise control circuit, do this and see if fuse blows

 

[gmanpaint]

Yes please throw out anything that runs thru your head!! You might think of something not already looked at yet!

The fuse that is blowing works the high stop, and the tow stop, which neither work due to the fuse blowing on pedal press. So yeah, connected in that sense.

The lower brake lights work with that blown fuse, as they are on a diff fuse.

Knowing the fuse blows when the pedal is depressed and removing the switch wont tell me anything diff, as there is no longer any circuit being used, BUT, what if I unpin the wire that is spliced, then try it, that would indeed tell me that suspect wire is def the cause of the short.I do not see anything being pinched above/around the pedal itself.

Process of elimination is what this is all about right?

 

[CDW6212R]

...
Process of elimination is what this is all about right?

Yes, try to remove anything connected to the circuit and see what happens. If there is something connected/added, start with those.

Both of my 98's and the 99 have the single brake switch like Jon described.

 

[gmanpaint]

This post is to keep track of what I did and know so far about this switch as it sits currently

Put a new fuse in #13.
I removed the horn fuse, pressed the horn, and didn't blow the #13 fuse. Put the fuse back.

The brake switch has 5 wires.... Solid Brown-Solid LG-LG/R-Solid Black-R/LG

Pulled the brake switch, that had the scotch lock on the solid LG wire, and no other wire attached to it. Removed the tape up to the plastic push mount, and found no loose wire. I tested it with a light from the connector pin, and it has power. Taped it up.

Tested the rest of the pins, and found power on the solid Brown wire.

OK, so the switch has hot at all times to the solid Brown & LG wires only.

Here is what I have found digging thru diagrams....

Power at all times should be to the Brown & the LG/R wires. When pedal is pressed, circuit is made from LG/R to LG at the switch
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

And this is the confusing part of the post...

Looking at the diagrams posted a page back, the Brown & LG/R wire are for the BOO/BPP, with the brown wire using fuse #9 with 7.5a. That fuse is good.

The Brake pressure switch (which I assume is also this same switch) also uses the LG/R wire but this wire uses the 20a fuse #13, which is the one blowing at the slightest touch of the pedal.

The solid LG wire is for the high stop, and shares fuse 13 with the LG/R wire

What I don't understand is solid LG & LG/R here. I know the Brown is hot at all times, but the LG/R is not when tested, but according to the diagrams, it should be hot at all times.

Does anybody think that the solid LG & LG/R wires are just in the wrong locations on the connector? If I was to swap them, what dangers could occur from doing this? Fry the ECM, fire, etc....

In order on my switch:
BK-R/LG-BR-LG-LG/R

Found the BPP pin out diagram, looks like they are in the right location at the switch. Must be wrong at the other end.

Can I unbolt the fuse panel on the dash, and pull outward to see behind it? Is there enough harness slack to pull it out enough, to work on it?