Car Will Not Start

[zend]

2016 Ford Ex XLT 6 cyl will not start.

Fifth time this has happened. Eventually have been able to get car to start due to waiting for an extended period of time or randomly getting the vehicle to start.

Car is currently siting in garage. Will wait an hour and try to start again.. Any ideas or other threads you can point me to with this issue? Battery was replaced ~1 year ago.

See video @ https://photos.app.goo.gl/ThiAcEbMX82NbsKs9

 

[thefranchise713]

Battery tested?

Starter doesn't have enough to complete a crank, and other modules aren't powering up based on dash warnings.

Battery is low hanging fruit before we research other causes.

 

[zend]

Do you recommend I remove battery and take to a local shop to test?

 

[thefranchise713]

If you can jump the car to life, I'd just run it to the local service place and ask them for a battery test. Ford Quick Lane franchises usually have a solid battery tester that can be used to validate the battery's health.

 

[peterk9]

2016 Ford Ex XLT 6 cyl will not start.

Fifth time this has happened. Eventually have been able to get car to start due to waiting for an extended period of time or randomly getting the vehicle to start.

Car is currently siting in garage. Will wait an hour and try to start again.. Any ideas or other threads you can point me to with this issue? Battery was replaced ~1 year ago.

See video @ https://photos.app.goo.gl/ThiAcEbMX82NbsKs9

Welcome to the Forum.
Will the engine crank/turnover?

Peter

 

[xlt03]

Turn off the lights, radio and heater control. Then attempt to start. Mines sounded like yours. I turned everything off and cranked. It barely started. Battery was bad. Bad cell in my case. I suspect your battery is bad but it Need a to be tested.

 

[onestout]

The video stopped before we could see under the hood. Is there any corrosion on your battery terminals? Were the connections clean when the battery was put in? Are they tight? These are a couple very basic things to start with.

At about 2 years old I had corrosion on my battery connections and had to take it apart and clean it up. The terminal is multi pieces and takes a little bit to take apart and clean up.

 

[zend]

Second attempt to start did not work either. Same fast clicking noise this time sounded localized to the fuse box? Maybe a bad relay?

Nobody around available to jump car. I have a 3 amp battery maintainer/charger. Hooked that up and will try again tomorrow!

See photo of battery @ https://photos.app.goo.gl/xj7GyNA4sepR18R7A

 

[ExPlat]

The battery in my 2016 failed at just over a year old. I had it towed to the Dealer who diagnosed the problem and installed a new battery under warranty.

If your car is still under the Powertrain Warranty you can call Ford Roadside Assistance for a jump start or a tow, see your Owners Manual, page 254.
"United States Ford vehicle customers who require Roadside Assistance, call 1-800-241-3673."
The Ford Rep on the phone can tell you if your car qualifies for this service, have your VIN ready.

 

[onestout]

battery connections look ok from what we can see in the pick, never hurts to take them off and clean up the battery and terminals with a little scotch brite to see if that helps, but it does seem like more of a battery issue.

 

[blwnsmoke]

Fast clicking is typically a bad battery

 

[Halwg]

Why won't you replace the battery?

 

[xlt03]

He mentioned battery was replaced about 1 year ago. Photo shows a Motorcraft battery with 100 month warranty. Assuming it was replaced by dealership under warranty he would only have the balance of original 3/36 and likely have to pay out of pocket if beyond the 3/36. If he still has powertrain warranty I believe he would still have Ford Roadside Assistance he can get jump or tow to nearest Ford or Lincoln dealership. He can try to plea his case regarding battery if it was same dealer that replaced it. He was putting a battery charger overnight to see if he can start in the morning. He hasn't posted back. If it is a bad cell, charging likely not helpful. My bet is a bad battery.

 

[thefranchise713]

^ Good catch on the warranty label.

I'd be running that sucker down to Quick Lane myself for a swap, leaning on that label (the worst they can say is 'no'), whether it was replaced under the 3/36 prior or not...

 

[zend]

I was able to start the car this morning (after full charge via 3a charger/maintainer). Brought it to AutoZone for a battery test. They also tested the starter and alternator.

Engine starter test failed. 36A discharge from battery.

See photo @ https://photos.app.goo.gl/wEjZzDArSkoTAPNL6

Anyone know if this is covered under factory warranty? 67k miles on vehicle.

Will call Ford Tuesday or earlier if local service has hours tomorrow.

 

[onestout]

90% chance it won't be covered. Rare to see a starter fail these days but no part has a 0ppm. Replace it and chalk it up to maintenance.

 

[zend]

Completely agree. Will post back here once maintenance is completed and mark title as solved. Thanks for all the help team.

 

[peterk9]

Second attempt to start did not work either. Same fast clicking noise this time sounded localized to the fuse box? Maybe a bad relay?

Nobody around available to jump car. I have a 3 amp battery maintainer/charger. Hooked that up and will try again tomorrow!

See photo of battery @ https://photos.app.goo.gl/xj7GyNA4sepR18R7A

When I hook up my charger, I never hook the negative to the negative terminal but to a body ground. That seems to be the most recommended procedure and it is part of the instructions that came with the charger. The same holds true when jump starting a car with a dead battery. The negative cable should be connected to a body ground on the vehicle with the dead battery.

Peter

 

[JAPeterson]

The idea of hooking up a ground to the block when jump starting is that when and if there are any sparks the battery will not explode when the gasses in or around it ignite. So you hook up the positive to the battery and the the negative to the vehicles engine block. It is also advisable to connect the positive post on the dead battery first then the positive post of the good vehicle second. Then the negative cable to the block of the dead vehicle then to the good vehicle.

 

[VCFP153]

Engine starter test failed. 36A discharge from battery.

Holy Hydraulics, that's a lot.