Stalling when in Gear along with Flickering Lights

[07EddyB]

OK - so here's the thing. You mentioned that you did quite a bit of work on the vehicle before this started - right?
Have you gone back through everything to make sure everything was put back correctly? Have you checked the belt path to make sure it is clear?
Is there an RPM difference at idle between running it with the belt on versus the belt off?

 

[Thafisher]

OK - so here's the thing. You mentioned that you did quite a bit of work on the vehicle before this started - right?
Have you gone back through everything to make sure everything was put back correctly? Have you checked the belt path to make sure it is clear?
Is there an RPM difference at idle between running it with the belt on versus the belt off?

Yes I have went over everything several times. The truck always ran poorly, I thought it was vacuum leak. I replaced intake manifold gaskets. Then it wouldn't start, turned out my coil on plug fuse blew. Once it started up I drove it around the corner where it stalled out on me. I have checked all connections several times. The belt path is correct, and there isn't anything actually in the path of the belt.
Yes, there seems to be a bit of an RPM difference. Like without the belt it will idle over 1k, with the belt it won't even go near that. When I ran it without the belt the idle actually seemed a bit high.

 

[CharlieK9]

Here is the OP's original post last week, after replacing the IM gaskets. The Diagnostic trouble codes then and now lead to a timing problem which will certainly lead to low power at idle.
Good luck.


oops:
06 Mountaineer No Spark after changing Gaskets..

 

[Thafisher]

Here is the OP's original post last week, after replacing the IM gaskets. The Diagnostic trouble codes then and now lead to a timing problem which will certainly lead to low power at idle.
Good luck.


oops:
06 Mountaineer No Spark after changing Gaskets..

Thanks. Although do you think that a timing issue would go away without the belt?

 

[Rcflyer330]

Thanks. Although do you think that a timing issue would go away without the belt?

No the symptoms would not completely go away the belt you are removing is not connected to the camshafts. Lets say there is a timing issue causing low power output removing the belt could remove enough load to let the engine just run. You would still have some symptoms like rough running but as soon as a load is put on it (shifting gears) should stall it just like if the belt was on.

I can say I am out of ideas on what it could be.
I will keep on researching.

 

[Thafisher]

No the symptoms would not completely go away the belt you are removing is not connected to the camshafts. Lets say there is a timing issue causing low power output removing the belt could remove enough load to let the engine just run. You would still have some symptoms like rough running but as soon as a load is put on it (shifting gears) should stall it just like if the belt was on.

I can say I am out of ideas on what it could be.
I will keep on researching.

So being the fact that it stays running while shifting gears it's less likely to be timing. Correct?
And what was your opinion on it being caused by my power steering pump pulley being a bit stiff?
I appreciate the time and effort!

 

[Rcflyer330]

Well that is my thinking but it could be a timing problem. I went back and watched all the videos and I missed a couple the first time. The power steering pump could be causing the noise. The in end play is what you checked looks acceptable check the up down and side to side play if moves in any of those directions. Also the pump is not going to turn as freely as the other pullys since you are always moving fluid when you turn the pump. spin the pump in the same direction as the belt would it should be smooth with some resistance.

Have you cleared the codes from before and rescanned if not do that and see if any codes come back. Do you know if your scanner has live data?

 

[CharlieK9]

Here is the VVT (or CVT) solenoid for your engine. I would find it, take it out and try to clean it. Then replace with new it if needed.
Drivers side (bank 1) first. But it could also be the sprocket assemble (phaser) and even a skipped tooth on the timing chain.
Hope this helps.


I always forget the link:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...+valve+timing+(vvt)+solenoid+/+actuator,12910

 

[Thafisher]

Here is the VVT (or CVT) solenoid for your engine. I would find it, take it out and try to clean it. Then replace with new it if needed.
Drivers side (bank 1) first. But it could also be the sprocket assemble (phaser) and even a skipped tooth on the timing chain.
Hope this helps.


I always forget the link:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...+valve+timing+(vvt)+solenoid+/+actuator,12910

Well, I've already replaced the VVT solenoid on bank 1 about 2 weeks ago.

 

[07EddyB]

Have you tried disabling the coils one at a time? If one is not working the idle won't change.

 

[Thafisher]

Well that is my thinking but it could be a timing problem. I went back and watched all the videos and I missed a couple the first time. The power steering pump could be causing the noise. The in end play is what you checked looks acceptable check the up down and side to side play if moves in any of those directions. Also the pump is not going to turn as freely as the other pullys since you are always moving fluid when you turn the pump. spin the pump in the same direction as the belt would it should be smooth with some resistance.

Have you cleared the codes from before and rescanned if not do that and see if any codes come back. Do you know if your scanner has live data?

Yes, I've cleared the codes multiple times. They always end up coming back with P0016 and P0012. No, it does not have live data, but it does have freeze frame.
The power steering pump pulley going out is known to cause choppiness in steering. (Almost like the power steering is turning off and on, in the middle of driving) That's what it felt like when I drove it for 5 mins a week ago. I just assumed it was associated with the alternator/power fluctuating while stalling. Then when someone told me to feel for stiff pulleys this is what I came to. Not sure if it could be that or not.
So what youre saying is it should pull in and out just a bit, but not side to side or up and down?
It would turn with slight resistance, then get stiffer after a few rotations.

 

[Thafisher]

Have you tried disabling the coils one at a time? If one is not working the idle won't change.

Well I already know I have a coil or 2 not working. The connectors on a few of them are giving out and slip right off. But I wouldn't think that would cause my stalling. I figured that would just be the same as a misfire?
- They hold on there but when the engine starts running I'm sure they move around and get just loose enough to not work and throw the code. Because I've changed plugs and coils a year ago and the codes came back I assume it has to be coming from those loose connectors. And actually the coil itself moves around. It's not snug in it's cylinder. I need to rethread them.
Here are the codes I had before I did this recent work on it.

 

[Thafisher]

Here is the VVT (or CVT) solenoid for your engine. I would find it, take it out and try to clean it. Then replace with new it if needed.
Drivers side (bank 1) first. But it could also be the sprocket assemble (phaser) and even a skipped tooth on the timing chain.
Hope this helps.


I always forget the link:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...+valve+timing+(vvt)+solenoid+/+actuator,12910

Are you sure bank 1 is drivers side? I'm pretty sure bank 1 is passenger side on this vehicle.
Bank 1 is generally the side with cylinder 1.

 

[CharlieK9]

My apologies, I must have misread you post regarding the solenoid.
I can not confirm bank 1 location as I only did a quick google search. I'm sorry if I was wrong.
Was it hard to change? On the Subaru you you had to take part of the timing cover off. How did the old one look, could you move the piston? Maybe swap them.
Also curious if you can see the timing marks on the cam shaft sprockets easily and compare with the marks on the crankshaft if you haven''t done that yet.

This would all be a lot easier if every day was Saturday!
At least you engine doesn't have a timing chain in the back of the engine like mine. And, properly running you will get better gas mileage than I do because of the VVT.
Hope its warm where you are, still too cold here in PA to do much outside.
Take care.

I see your in Pensacola, I lived there 1973 to 1976. Nice place.

 

[Thafisher]

My apologies, I must have misread you post regarding the solenoid.
I can not confirm bank 1 location as I only did a quick google search. I'm sorry if I was wrong.
Was it hard to change? On the Subaru you you had to take part of the timing cover off. How did the old one look, could you move the piston? Maybe swap them.
Also curious if you can see the timing marks on the cam shaft sprockets easily and compare with the marks on the crankshaft if o haven''t done that yet.

This would all be a lot easier if every day was Saturday!
At least you engine doesn't have a timing chain in the back of the engine like mine. And, properly running you will get better gas mileage that I do because of the VVT.
Hope its warm where you are, still too cold here in PA to do much outside.
Take care.

No big deal! It was fairly easy to change. The reason I changed it was actually because It was a bit loose, and I had some 'mechanic' check out the vehicle in my driveway. He ended up pulling the vvt solenoid out completely. The plastic separated from the metal. So half of it was still bolted down while the other half was out. The old one actually didn't look horrible though, aside from being broken. It didn't have any chunks/debris blocking the screens on it.
What do you mean by, move the piston?
I haven't looked for any timing marks. I have no experience with anything involving timing. I just watched a video on changing the phaser though, I know what marks you're talking about. If I checked the marks what would that let me know?
Yea I know right! It's in the 50s today so it's pretty dang chilly here too.
But yea I get around 10 mpg. It's horrible. But that was with all those codes I just posted. I believe it should have improved a bit by now. If it'll ever even stay running..

Yea it's a nice city to live in. Especially if you enjoy the beach. Other than that not a whole lot going on here.

 

[Thafisher]

So, aside from everything else. Can we eliminate the power steering pump pulley from being the culprit? It was a bit hard to turn and it moves in and out just a bit as seen here - Power Steering Pump Pulley Video
This is the engine running without the belt. - Engine Running Without Belt Video
This is the engine running with the belt. (Squealing can be heard and you can see headlights flickering with stalling in the end) - Engine Running With Belt Video

Just to bring all the videos to one spot. I can also take a video if there's something anyone wants to see on the truck.

 

[CharlieK9]

With crankshaft sprocket on its mark, the two camshaft sprockets should line up. But this will not happen on every revolution of the crank. May take several turns, but it should line up.

I don't know why, but I have been assuming you just got this car.

 

[Thafisher]

With crankshaft sprocket on its mark, the two camshaft sprockets should line up. But this will not happen on every revolution of the crank. May take several turns, but it should line up.

I don't know why, but I have been assuming you just got this car.

No I got it over a year ago. When I bought it there were spark plugs loose, they were in horrible condition, coils were unplugged, there was all kinds of different things wrong. I changed all plugs and coils, fuel filter, ran fuel injector cleaner, oil change, etc.. It was running decent for the past year. Good enough to take me wherever I needed to go. 6 Hour drives sometimes..
Then recently it started acting up. It was very hesitant with the gas pedal, was sluggish, then it got worse and I couldn't even barely get it over 5mph. Backfiring and everything. To the point where It wasn't driveable on any main roads, it was just simply too slow and wouldn't accelerate fast enough to drive with traffic.
I did some research and had all the codes in hand. I decided it probably had a vacuum leak given all my lean codes and misfires. So I decided to change the intake manifold gaskets. Which I did successfully with no big issues.
When I went to start it back up it wouldn't start, it would just crank endlessly. Ended up being a blown coil on plug fuse. I changed it and it started up.
At this time that VVT solenoid had been broken so I went ahead and swapped it before I tried to drive it.
It drove better than it had in the past for the little amount of time I got it to drive. But that's when the stalling started.
So long story short it's been a pain.

I could check that timing mark and see, but then again, doesn't that just mean we're checking the timing? If so, can't we kind of rule out bad timing by the fact that It will drive without the belt? Or no?

 

[07EddyB]

Well I already know I have a coil or 2 not working. The connectors on a few of them are giving out and slip right off. But I wouldn't think that would cause my stalling. I figured that would just be the same as a misfire?

If you actually have two bad coils then yes - it could cause the stalling. It might still run with the belt off though simply because there is less load on the engine. I was going to bet money on this - I would say that it dies because the engine isn't running right. I have pulled the wire to one coil before on my engine and I thought it was going to die. It's amazing how bad it runs with one coil down. A misfire isn't necessarily the same - a misfire may be intermittent whereas a dead coil never fires.
I would seriously stop wasting time with the belt and accessories - they probably aren't the cause here. I would focus on having 8 working coils and plugs.

 

[Thafisher]

If you actually have two bad coils then yes - it could cause the stalling. It might still run with the belt off though simply because there is less load on the engine. I was going to bet money on this - I would say that it dies because the engine isn't running right. I have pulled the wire to one coil before on my engine and I thought it was going to die. It's amazing how bad it runs with one coil down. A misfire isn't necessarily the same - a misfire may be intermittent whereas a dead coil never fires.
I would seriously stop wasting time with the belt and accessories - they probably aren't the cause here. I would focus on having 8 working coils and plugs.

Ok, I'm about to go out there and work on getting them tightened down.
But did you notice that I had these codes for a while too while still driving it? They were on that picture of all my old codes.