A/C Rear Line Leak

[aypanthony]

add me to the list for the AC Line leak near the rear evaporator.....Im going to bring it in to my local mechanic to see if he can splice, or solder it. If not, he will have to replace the line.

 

[Dantoosi]

So mine was leaking where the aluminum tube goes into the flange that bolts it up. Not sure if that is a soldered connection or what but I put the smallest can of charge plus stop leak in and it stopped the same day after a drive with the rear ac on max. Have only used the ac a handful of times since then but it has not leaked yet.

 

[Tsuga]

We purchase a CPO 2013 Explorer two years ago in March. In June we found out that the evaporator in the rear hvac was leaking. This part was not under CPO warranty. The front evaporator is covered, but for whatever reason the back is not. After several phone calls back and forth, Ford agreed to pay for half the cost of the repair. However, when they took it apart, they found that the lines were corroded and caused the evaporator to leak. We ended up having the whole thing replaced and only paid the 100 deductible.

 

[dmick]

Hi everyone. New here and have a question on my 2011 xlt explorer. I noticed a puddle of coolant on the garage floor this morning below the drivers side muffler. Upon inspection there is a coolant leak from a flange where the ac and coolant lines meet (see pic). There was a white "fog" escaping as well. I assume that's ac refrigerant. The leak appears to be right at the base of one of the nuts. You can see a drip coming off the nut and it's "fizzing" from the gas escaping. Anyone have experience with this issue? I'm not sure if it's just a seal or if the lines are shot. I can't seem to find a diagram anywhere. Ford wasn't much help and told me to bring it in. Any help would be appreciated!

View attachment 158435

I know I'm digging up an old threat here, but @Gmcelroy, I had the exact same leak occur just last week. I've been scouring the internet to see what's the likely damage and found your picture. Exact same in my 2016 Explorer. What was the issue? Also how much to fix?

Thanks in advance for a response. Hope your Explorer is keeping you cool.

 

[Gmcelroy]

I know I'm digging up an old threat here, but @Gmcelroy, I had the exact same leak occur just last week. I've been scouring the internet to see what's the likely damage and found your picture. Exact same in my 2016 Explorer. What was the issue? Also how much to fix?

Thanks in advance for a response. Hope your Explorer is keeping you cool.

Sorry to say I don't have an answer. I ended up trading the Explorer in since I didn't want to deal with it and it was developing a few other issues. Everyone I spoke with said it would be a big (expensive) job due to the routing of the lines. Seems like this is a design fault or they used the wrong materials. Good luck!

 

[dmick]

Sorry to say I don't have an answer. I ended up trading the Explorer in since I didn't want to deal with it and it was developing a few other issues. Everyone I spoke with said it would be a big (expensive) job due to the routing of the lines. Seems like this is a design fault or they used the wrong materials. Good luck!

Thanks for the quick response! I guess I'll find out soon. I'm stuck with this car for a few years, so looks like i'll invest in AC. My car is barely 2 years old, it's high miles, I get it, but how does it fail so soon? Perhaps my luck will change this year, 25 years driving, 25 years cursed with expensive car repairs, no matter the vehicle.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum dmick.
Going by post #18, it looks like it could set you back about $1000 or more depending on how they address the repair.

Peter

 

[KayGee]

Perhaps my luck will change this year, 25 years driving, 25 years cursed with expensive car repairs, no matter the vehicle.

Maybe it's time to change things up or consider extended warranties if you really are that unlucky. I'll say a prayer for you.

 

[Tsuga]

Maybe it's time to change things up or consider extended warranties if you really are that unlucky. I'll say a prayer for you.

It seems that this the way to go if you want to keep this vehicle for a long time.

 

[dmick]

I had bad luck with the extended warranties too. Either I had the coverage and never used it, or it was weird 3rd party warranties that had very specific shops, and only one in my area closed and other switched providers. It was seriously like health coverage/doctors/insurance headahce. So i figured i'd risk it and skip the $2,000 warranty.

The repair bill on replacing the whole rear AC line is $1,245 including freon/parts/labor in 53590 zip. Way less than a few other ballpark #'s i'd been thrown. The other option to cap rear AC line was $306. I'm just going to get it fixed. But by my math so far, I'm $750 ahead on skipping that extended warranty. Engine/Trans have been rock solid. (I know writing this i've likely jinxed myself and next will have to go sell a kidney to pay for repairs).

Thanks all! I still love my 2016 Explorer! way more solid than my '07... so far.

 

[peterk9]

If you are going with an extended warranty, stay away from 3rd party ones and go with the Ford ESP. There is a thread on getting a Ford ESP at cost for Forum members in the 'Sticky' section of this subforum.

Peter

 

[dmick]

Thanks Peter! I'll keep look more into that

 

[peterk9]

Thanks Peter! I'll keep look more into that

Keep in mind like all warranties there are some things that are not covered. Best to pull up a Ford PreniumCare ESP brochure from the Internet and check it out. Items not covered are at the bottom.

 

[Gleisure]

Hey guys I have this exact problem on my 2011 ford explorer xlt. It's close to the bend in the line so clearly ford specs were **** and the wall thickness went too thin. I tried jb weld but no luck. I wondered if anyone has tried a pop rivet. Instead of trying to cover a pinhole I thought about getting a closed end pop rivot...drilling the pin hole bigger and using the rivot so it would mushroom seal from the inside of the line. If not why cant the dealers cut and reflare the ends?

 

[peterk9]

Would my type of 'fix' in post #3 work?

Peter

 

[Gleisure]

Would my type of 'fix' in post #3 work?

Peter

Hey thanks but it's on a bend so the water clamp doesnt seat well. It's a good thought though I'm wondering you know how they tap water lines for ice makers and stuff maybe that type of clamp with a piece of rubber will work..minus the piercing tip of course. I'll try everything before spending 1500

 

[Gleisure]

Peterk9. I did it! So I had a package with miscellaneous o rings. I picked a flat rubber ring out. Sliced one side and cut it down to wrap the pipe then I used a water clamp over that. Charged the system and no leaks. It's not professional its not permanent but it's a lot better than paying over a grand. I will say to others though dont use the underwater jb weld. It doesnt seal against the vapor gas and it made a mess of my line. I made sure where the pinhole was was very clean and smooth to allow the rubber to seat.

 

[XPyrion]

Just adding to the record that my 2014 Explorer Limited A/C just started leaking in the rear at 90k. Dealer quote was $3k due the corrosion so the whole rear system had to be replaced. A local place quoted $500 less and stated the dealer just let one pipe hanging and the other pipe looked like they tried to muscle it out but couldn't due to the corrosion.

Since I just paid $3k in January for the water pump failure w/tune-up and front suspension, I traded it in for a new brand with CPO and extended warranty. I needed the peace of mind. I've had fairly good luck with Ford products in the past but I think I have learned my lesson about foregoing the extended warranty. The extended warranty was wasted on my Dodge Ram but came in handy for a Buick Enclave so that is why I have been mixed about it. I really thought these newer vehicles would make it to 100k without pricey issues.

Anyway, sorry for not making any positive posts but I also never posted about the seat heater issues, door armrest ripping, seat leather starting to rip, shift lever replacement, strut bearings and SYNC hiccups. Having said that, other than the recent reliability issues, it really seemed like one of the better 3-row midsize SUVs for options/3rd row space for the price. Goodbye Ford Explorer forum.

 

[peterk9]

You know members are going to want to know what you traded it for.

Peter

 

[XPyrion]

I went for a 2017 Toyota Highlander Hybrid Limited due to it being a CPO with 17k miles priced aggressively at $36k. I got them down to $35k including a 5yr/125,000 mile warranty and added remote start. We average ~20k miles a year. I was also considering a newer Explorer or Pilot but there just wasn't any inventory at a decent price. It's my first Toyota so not sure what to expect. Looks like you switched from Toyota to Ford.

For me, the only drawback is the space behind the 3rd row. My wife will miss the heated steering wheel, keyless entry pad and would've missed remote start if it wasn't added. Other features it lacks but we didn't really mind was second row heated seats, power fold 2nd/third row seats and towing package. I drive a Dodge Ram 1500 ST so other than utility, creature comforts don't mean much.