Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread | Page 109 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.
 



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I have been thinking about 37s too, Brian. My ranger works lovely on 35s, but I have some extra space with the new fiberglass. Bigger tires are usually a good thing- however in the last snow storm I popped a hub with my front chained- so IDK. I love my stock f150 alcoa wheels- but they are 15", so I would have to go with 17" wheels. I don't know if the juice would be worth the squeeze either...
 






If I had room for 37's and could just bolt the new tires/wheels on and go for a drive, I would do it.
 






When I originally finished my SAS, I started with 35's and nothing rubbed. With 37's it rubs front and back.
 






I clear 37's. At full compression the fronts rub the fender right at the top but barely haven't even rubbed through paint yet. Rears don't rub :)

A lot more money for 37's over 35's to which can be a big deciding point.
 






Went for a drive a few days ago in the back country with my neighbor who has a TJ on 33's. Did some easier trails in the high desert (Jasper, Grapevine Cyn, Blair Valley, Rodriguez Cyn, Oraflame). Sarah (daughter) went with me and she drove nearly all the trails. I had to keep telling her to slow down because she was getting too far ahead of the TJ. She remarked how smooth and stable the Explorer feels on any type of terrain since the SAS. It was a fun day and helped me decide.

I have my list of new mods figured out;

Atlas II, 3.8. Reason I am going with the 3.8 is because the 700R4's low 1st gear. I think that combo will be ideal.
Ruff Stuff's 1 ton TRE steeringhttps://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html .
Custom rear leaf pack from ? I was going to go with National Spring, but I understand they are out of business.
Probably new Redhead steering box, tired of replacing the lifetime A-Z rebuilds.
Probably new rear shocks since they are 15 years old.

Drive it for a while and see if I want new front coil over springs, maybe PAC Racing. Guy I get all my stuff from has a bunch of them on clearance right now (davesoffroadsupply.com) so it might be sooner than later.

Also looking into rebuilding the engine I kept from the donor with performance parts. Need to look into that to see if its worth the money.


I do have a question for the Atlas II owners. Do they fit between the Explorer frame rails while clocked flat? I got a quote (see below) and the guy said there is a flat rotation option. I would really like that because, well, its flat, out of harm's way, and I wouldn't have to modify my skid plates.

Atlas 2 Speed Transfer Case - Trail Series
Drop: Left Hand Drop (Driver Side) with Flat Rotation Option
Ratio: 3.8:1 Gear Set
Input Spline: 23 Spline
Transmission Application Model & Year: 700R4, Adapted to NP231 with 23 spline output conversion
Tailhousing: Standard Tailhousing (w/speedo provision)
Front Yoke: 1310 CV
Rear Yoke: 1310 CV
Speedometer: Not Applicable
Shifter Kit: Cable Shifter - Universal
Add Site Tube: Yes

Atlas (as quoted above) = $2862.00
Free Shipping.
This price is a little higher than normal because since AA is in CA and it is being shipped to CA they are required to collect CA State Sales Tax.

Set up like this, I would only have to modify my drive shaft length to bolt it in.
 






It would fit if there wasn't anything else in the way.

atlas_rr.jpg


I was able to use the stock T-case skid with no mods to it with it behind the 4.0L/M50D.

I had to lower the mounts at the frame by 3/4" with it behind the 5.0L/4R70w, and that left a 3/8" gap.



I think your better off changing up your rear drive shaft to 1330 or 1350, over the 1310 on the atlas. Your going to be working on it anyways. Just my O2.
 






Custom rear leaf pack from ? I was going to go with National Spring, but I understand they are out of business.

Take a look at Alcan Spring. They’re based out of Grand Junction, Colorado. I got my custom leaf packs through them for my 3” lift. They’re quality is awesome and they were one of the best prices I found on custom leaf packs.
 






It would fit if there wasn't anything else in the way.

View attachment 170358

I was able to use the stock T-case skid with no mods to it with it behind the 4.0L/M50D.

I had to lower the mounts at the frame by 3/4" with it behind the 5.0L/4R70w, and that left a 3/8" gap.


I think your better off changing up your rear drive shaft to 1330 or 1350, over the 1310 on the atlas. Your going to be working on it anyways. Just my O2.
Is the camera angle, or is the Atlas still going to be below the frame rails even if clocked flat?

Take a look at Alcan Spring. They’re based out of Grand Junction, Colorado. I got my custom leaf packs through them for my 3” lift. They’re quality is awesome and they were one of the best prices I found on custom leaf packs.
I will give them a call. I assume they want me to weigh the Explorer front and rear? I liked National because they made a great product and were local. Everyone says Deaver, but I am not a fan. Someone I know ordered custom leaf packs and they sent them their standard 2" lift leaf springs. They were inverted at rest and they never made it right.

I was looking at the quote form for Alcan and I have no idea how much lift the Explorer has. If I had to guess, I would say with the SOA and my franken leaf springs, maybe 7" over stock. How do you figure that out?
 






I would like an atlas someday too- I'll be interested to see what you figure out.
 






Not sure on that. It might be lower, regardless.

The case is massively thick, and can take a beating. Lowering the stock skid covers it well. Just to be safe, I'm welding two stock plates together just because it's cheap.
 






The bottom of my Explorer is covered with skid plates from in front of the transmission to the gas tank skid plate. They sit about 1" below the frame at the transfer case. Hope they clear.

As far as U-joints go. I have 1310 double cardan's on both drive shafts at the transfer case. OEM Jeep stuff that is very easy to locate.
 






I will give them a call. I assume they want me to weigh the Explorer front and rear? I liked National because they made a great product and were local. Everyone says Deaver, but I am not a fan. Someone I know ordered custom leaf packs and they sent them their standard 2" lift leaf springs. They were inverted at rest and they never made it right.

I was looking at the quote form for Alcan and I have no idea how much lift the Explorer has. If I had to guess, I would say with the SOA and my franken leaf springs, maybe 7" over stock. How do you figure that out?

Yah I’m pretty sure they want front and rear weight. I know they also wanted weight of any additional gear you may carry with you on trips and some other info.

I’ve heard a lot of mixed reviews about Deaver. And they seem to be pretty pricy.

Well in my case it was easy to order because I was putting a 3 inch lift up front, so I just ordered ones for 3 inches of lift. It was maybe 1/2 and inch higher in the rear until I built my tire carrier, now it sits level. But that’s also with me staying spring under as a stock Explorer would’ve been. Alcan’s form works as if you’re going from a completely stock vehicle.

With a SOA and if you use stock height springs, you get 5.5 - 6 inches of lift. So, if you’re thinking that you have 7 inches of total lift over stock, you would only need springs that provide 1 inch of lift.

Hopefully that makes sense
 












The bottom of my skid, is 4" below the frame.

The pass side of the case looks to be dead even with the frame.

With it clocked flat, the pass side might drop a little, as it will lower it as the dr side is raised. Won't be much, maybe 1". Just a guess by looking at my setup.

We have diff trans tho, and not sure if there is a height diff at the tail housings.
 






This gives me a great start. I usually think about something for a long time before I make the leap.

The Alcan people already responded with a quote. Lot less than Deaver and should be fine for what I need. I will be ordering all this stuff around the end of the month.
 












I bought used Alcan springs I am installing on Tracy's Jeep. They are a well respected company. I have a friend running them on his Commando and likes them.
 



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I was in the process of ordering the Atlas II and a Yukon 88 Ultimate C-clip eliminator kit like this one
Yukon Ultimate 88 axle kit 95-02 Explorer

Not buying it from this place because I can get it $200 cheaper. The Yukon tech department thinks the axles from 91-94 and 95-up are different and this kit will not fit. I think the only difference for the Explorer 8.8's is the drum or disk brakes. Does anyone know for sure if this kit will fit my 1994 axle with disc brakes off a 1999?
 






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