5R55E Won’t go “shift” | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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5R55E Won’t go “shift”

BlueEx00

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 27, 2019
Messages
111
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6
City, State
Fort Worth Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 xlt 4 door 4x4
Long story short, put the exp on ramps, changed fluid,gasket,filter, made that mating surface shine! Put new gasket on after applying sealer, put pan back on, put 1qrt of fluid on to back it off ramps it will go into neutral, but it won’t actually shift into reverse so I decided to wait and put more merconv in there first I guess I just want reassurance since I know absolute nothing about transmissions, hope this makes sense happy mother’s day everyone!
 



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Put back in amount you drained out. What was reason for fluid and filter at this time? Just maintenance?
 






Yes sir, and thank you!
 






Ditto, it won't shift until it has near full fluid, and has circulated a bit.

So check the dipstick, fluid level, often, and fill 1/2 quart at a time between checking it. When it shows between the hash marks, then put in each gear for a few seconds, while held with the brakes. Moving through each gear moves the fluid throughout the valve body etc. You should get it right at full, before test driving it, and then come back and check it more. Fill it slowly for that last part of a quart, it's easy to put too much in it if you add too much at a time.
 






Took 4 quarts on my 5r 2Wd
 






Thank you sir! I was all proud I changed my gasket and filter and then I go to put in reverse so I could get it off the ramps then I go “ oh crap” lol! Ok fill it up correctly tonight.
 






Update! Drove the exp to work today it actually shifts better than it did before
 






Well done. Working on your own cars is not that much trouble, and it can save you a huge amount of money. Learn about your cars a little at a time, and enjoy skipping the repair shops.
 






Well done. Working on your own cars is not that much trouble, and it can save you a huge amount of money. Learn about your cars a little at a time, and enjoy skipping the repair shops.
Knowing the job was done right and with care, in my opinion, is priceless!
 






That's true too. I make no claims to be better than fully trained technicians, but I've heard of way more mistakes by them, than those I know I've done by accident. They are supposed to know better, we learn by trial and error, and the word of mouth help of others.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to forums like this one.
 






Thanks guys! I bought this exp to actually teach myself how to fix things that go wrong with my car and I like it! I saved about $110 bucks by doing it myself, thank you everyone!
 






Knowing the job was done right and with care, in my opinion, is priceless!
Wait until he replaces a WP and finds out a shop can charge $500 to $2000 for these not that complicated jobs. Someone recently just paid $2k for a 302 WP job. I can do my own V8 transmissions, shops want $3k easily, and they don't do any upgrades. I can do it all for under $400 plus a torque converter and a couple days of my labor. I'm just older now and slower, less motivated etc.
 






What’s a “Wp”?
 












Oh! Ok anyone know when those take a crap?
 






Oh! Ok anyone know when those take a crap?
You've got a V6 engine which are less prone to breaking the water pump bolts. But they all typically last 100k to 200k miles. Just like always, watch for any leaks, drips on the ground etc. WP's usually drip from the weep hole tha's under its shaft and pulley.

Sorry about abbreviating the WP words before, I usually only abbreviate after spelling something out at least once before then. Such as a power distribution box, I hate typing that out at all, PDB is a very good abbreviation for that important part. Regards,
 






Wait until he replaces a WP and finds out a shop can charge $500 to $2000 for these not that complicated jobs. Someone recently just paid $2k for a 302 WP job. I can do my own V8 transmissions, shops want $3k easily, and they don't do any upgrades. I can do it all for under $400 plus a torque converter and a couple days of my labor. I'm just older now and slower, less motivated etc.

I certainly believe those prices today, especially if you walk in off the street or goto a dealer. That is why many buy and lease new expensive cars.

I had an 85 crown vic w/302. This was 22 yrs ago but the guy did the wp for $200 and didn't break anything. He said he rarely does, I watched him do it, looked like he was very experienced. Then he said for another $100 (labor) I strongly suggest replacing timing components. I should have listened because the engine jumped time about 10K miles later. I don't think it is an issue though on newer 302s, but something to think about while you are in there and plan on keeping it very long. He (at the time) told me all high mileage 302s (even the ones in the showroom then) should do it before 200K.
 






I certainly believe those prices today, especially if you walk in off the street or goto a dealer. That is why many buy and lease new expensive cars.

I had an 85 crown vic w/302. This was 22 yrs ago but the guy did the wp for $200 and didn't break anything. He said he rarely does, I watched him do it, looked like he was very experienced. Then he said for another $100 (labor) I strongly suggest replacing timing components. I should have listened because the engine jumped time about 10K miles later. I don't think it is an issue though on newer 302s, but something to think about while you are in there and plan on keeping it very long. He (at the time) told me all high mileage 302s (even the ones in the showroom then) should do it before 200K.

I had both 85 and 86 351 Crown Vic's. Those older about pre-88 302's all had plastic cam gear teeth, which got brittle etc, after 100-150k miles. The newer 302/351's I believe finally Ford stopped using those awful plastic cam gears. The chains still stretch a lot, but with intact cam gear teeth, they don't jump off nearly as much with high mileage.
 






I had both 85 and 86 351 Crown Vic's. Those older about pre-88 302's all had plastic cam gear teeth, which got brittle etc, after 100-150k miles. The newer 302/351's I believe finally Ford stopped using those awful plastic cam gears. The chains still stretch a lot, but with intact cam gear teeth, they don't jump off nearly as much with high mileage.
Oh so that explains it. The tech told me the camshaft and valves put a ton of stress on the chain and gears.

Not pretty when that fails. But it is obviously not an issue anymore. Probably lose a few MPG and HP over it.
 



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Yeah, when you have to do the WP on a 302 or any OHV Ford V8, with some higher mileage, do the timing chain set also. I began my 98 truck last year, and stopped at the WP when the first bolt broke off the head. When I get my 99 truck driveable again, then I'll get back to that WP bolt, and the timing set.
 






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