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Cabin Air Filter Replacement

Everyone back to their corners. Who would think that a simple discussion about airflow direction would turn into an international incident. The OEM factory filer had the arrow stamped Air Flow UP as in from the floor to the windshield. Greg's had his arrow stamped Top-Bottom. as in windshield to floor. Build dates and purchase dates are pretty close (approximately 45 days for Build and about 14 days for Purchase) Maybe I did get a mis printed label.
 



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I changed mine out at around 19,000 and it was dirty. I could of gone another 10,000 or so but why put a dirty filter back in after you have pulled everything apart to get to it?

99% of my driving is pavement but I have ventured onto the dirt a few times.
 






Put a K&N in mine, won't ever worry about buying one again.

That is the first question? How has the K&N worked out so far? I just ordered one and hoping for decent reliability and long term durability.

With the first question out of the way here are a couple of notes and can apply to pretty much all explorers and a lot of vehicles in general. Especially with the models with the filter behind the glove compartment.

The biggest part of the OEM/ Factory installed CAF, is the OEM ones are mass produced and not exactly the highest quality. Yes Made in the USA but I would rather spend a few bucks extra and get better quality with longer term durability.

With that tidbit out of the way. Here goes....

I personaly have had good luck with the FRAM Fresh Breeze CF 11176. Charcoal/carbon filtering media and Arm/Hammer Baking soda to help contain and reduce odor and mildew accumulation. I also spray a fairly liberal coating of Febreeze in the pleats. Give the interior a nice fresh scent through the vents for a few days after installation.

The OEM along with most aftermarket CAF’s are fairly cheap pleats and filtering media. Yes cheap but if they don’t last as long then more expensive overall. Fresh Breeze and some others have Charcoal activated filter bed to help prolong life but still cheap paper thin base.

The Fresh Breeze is a very big step towards longer life but still paper thin base.

Also make a note...The Fresh Breeze and STP filters at least have the part number and airflow direction indicator (Arrow). Stamped on the long side of the filter. That is of course the NON visible side so pay extremely close to the arrow when removing the OEM filter especially during the first time removal of the Factory OEM filter.

I put a cheap STP from AutoZone to replace the Factory filter but that is a temporary measure to avoid putting the dirty filter back in. I have a FRAM Fresh Breeze as a hold over from my 2014 Taurus and will replace at 10K and plan inspection and most likely replace every 10K miles after that.

The point of the arrow on the side is remember the orientation. I used a contrasting color permanent marker and marked the arrow direction on the access panel side for easy reference. I also wrote the date and mileage again as a quick reference.

I just Ordered the K&N reusable/washable should be here over the weekend. That will probably be the next one to go in and either keep th Fresh Breeze as a spare. If I have to use the vehicle while the K&N filter is drying out then some protection is better than none.

Another installation note and could help with future replacement. Tape a piece of masking, painters, or Alligator tape to the filter on the access cover side. You could also use a small ZipTie and cut a small slit in the pleats to route the ZipTie through and route the latch part either under or over the filter pleats. Cut should be about 1/8” at most just enough to slide ZipTie through and loop around to the latching teeth. This will give you a decent place to grip when you have to remove the filter in the future. Grab either with fingers or a hook removal tool. Make sure you don’t cover the airflow direction arrow but as close to center as possible. By pulling the filter from the center the sides will compress towards the center and make it much easier to remove. Yes you will have to repeat the process with new ZipTie for next filter but for only a few cents per tie shouldn’t be a major expense.

I plan to use this method when the K&N arrives and especially since it is reusaythe ZipTie should be able to stay in place for the life of the filter. I will post results after testing. I used the original filter as a test bed for the proof of concept with a approximately 2-3 inch ZipTie and worked fine. You could even leave the excess ZipTie material that extends past the buckle that in most cases gets cut off. That will give you even more of an anchor point to grab the filter.
 






...but why put a dirty filter back in after you have pulled everything apart to get to it?
Different schools of thought on a lot of things, but if the filter hasn't been wet/damaged and doesn't have any foul odor/s, there are those that subscribe to the school of thought that an 'air' filter can be cleaned of large debris and shaken/tapped/vacuumed, and then put back into service for a while longer. There are also those that say paper 'air' filters should only be replaced and never cleaned in any way.
 






Different schools of thought on a lot of things, but if the filter hasn't been wet/damaged and doesn't have any foul odor/s, there are those that subscribe to the school of thought that an 'air' filter can be cleaned of large debris and shaken/tapped/vacuumed, and then put back into service for a while longer. There are also those that say paper 'air' filters should only be replaced and never cleaned in any way.

On top of that, I will add that a partially dirty filter will filter better then a clean filter.
 






Different schools of thought on a lot of things, but if the filter hasn't been wet/damaged and doesn't have any foul odor/s, there are those that subscribe to the school of thought that an 'air' filter can be cleaned of large debris and shaken/tapped/vacuumed, and then put back into service for a while longer. There are also those that say paper 'air' filters should only be replaced and never cleaned in any way.

On top of that, I will add that a partially dirty filter will filter better then a clean filter.

Both post are true but I figure that when the filter only cost a few bucks why not change it and not worry for another xx amount of miles no matter how far you drive between checking it.

I did mine when I did just do to the fact that is what the owners manual said. That plus I changed out my air filter early also. Now I don't really have to worry about either for a couple more years.
 






It is good to know that Ford finally apparently got the hint that the same Cabin Air Filter CAN BE used on different models. My K&N should be here Saturday so stay tuned.
 






Consider using a headband style flashlight and an 8” diameter mirror to lay on the floorboard or hold onto so that you can see the pin during installation. Using the flashlight on your forehead will shine into the mirror and reflect up to the pin so you can see better.
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What in the world was Ford thinking? Or am I missing something simple?

Please look at the attached photos (all the same part, slightly different views to help). Based on what I have read and viewed on YouTube DIY videos, I am not the only person to find this difficult/impossible. There are two white hinge locking pins on the bottom of the glove box door that are supposed to be removed. The first one, nearest the driver’s side slides toward the passenger door. This one came out with a bit of work. The second one, near the door? HA! The Ford engineer who did this must be laughing his head off!

This is supposed to slide toward the center of the car, but as you can see there is a piece of metal in the way. Why? How on earth am I supposed to get that pin out without breaking it?

I searched the forums and YouTube and watched a number of videos. No one has described this problem.

Any ideas? Or do I not need to remove the glove box door to change the cabin air filter?

Thanks
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^^ Your thread was merged with this existing one. You may also want to check out; How to remove glove box?

Peter
Peter,
The thread you merged my thread with is titled “engine air filter replacement” . I can appreciate you wanting to keep the board clean, but I would think someone would NOT reply to my thread if they were not subscribed to it already. My problem/pictures are for the cabin air filter, not the engine air filter.

Could you re-post my original question? Thank you!
 






Didn't mean to use that thread. Sorry, There are several posts in this one about those pins and the issues with them.

Peter
 






Didn't mean to use that thread. Sorry, There are several posts in this one about those pins and the issues with them.

Peter

No worries, Peter. I wasn't sure how to let you know so I posted in the thread and also posted to your page.

Thanks for getting back to me. Now, if you could just tell me how to get this damn pin out, I'll stop bothering you! HAHA!

I'll settle for what direction I need to rotate the pin. Since I tried and couldn't rotate it, I'm looking for some info from anyone that has run into this. I used a screwdriver and a hammer, and also needle-nosed pliers but the thing would not budge. I guess I can just break it, but I'd rather not. Seems some folks never replace the pins. Someone at Ford needs to be taken out back and beaten with a rubber hose.
 






Some have used a pair of pliers to grab the white pin...then rotate, then pull.
 






You do not need to remove the glove box door to replace cabin air filter. But, be careful that you don't let the glove box drop down too far or it will break the tabs on bottom.

With that said, I found it easier to pop the pins out by dropping the knee air bag out of the way. It's 4 screws and very easy to take out, then the pins just pop right out. Hard to tell exactly from the above pic, but it looks like the pins are being held in by the air bag.
 






You need to rotate the tabs on the pins down to where you can then slide the pins out.
 






Some have used a pair of pliers to grab the white pin...then rotate, then pull.

I tried this, and the pin would not budge. I will give it another go. Maybe I could smack it a bit harder.

You do not need to remove the glove box door to replace cabin air filter. But, be careful that you don't let the glove box drop down too far or it will break the tabs on bottom.

With that said, I found it easier to pop the pins out by dropping the knee air bag out of the way. It's 4 screws and very easy to take out, then the pins just pop right out. Hard to tell exactly from the above pic, but it looks like the pins are being held in by the air bag.

I was thinking of doing this, but I had not seen anyone else do this on the YouTube videos I’ve watched, nor did I read anyone suggest it until you. I thought maybe there was a reason why people didn’t remove those screws. Anything I need to watch out for? I am assuming I can do this without disconnecting the airbag. Do I need a bungee cord to hold up the airbag, or will it stay up unassisted?

I’ll give the pliers another try and if that doesn’t work, i’ll remove the screws.


Update will come after I get this thing out.
 






I just used a screwdriver to move the tab down and then used it to pull the pins towards the center.

It was easier to use the screwdriver than my fingers.
 






UPDATE


With that said, I found it easier to pop the pins out by dropping the knee air bag out of the way. It's 4 screws and very easy to take out, then the pins just pop right out. Hard to tell exactly from the above pic, but it looks like the pins are being held in by the air bag.

what year is your explorer? Mine is a 2016, and Ford was nice enough to put a rivet in between the two screws. So removing the screws doesn’t do it. Apparently, I also have to break those rivets and I am not about to do that. And no, they are not cosmetic. I took out the screws and the air bag would not budge.

I just used a screwdriver to move the tab down and then used it to pull the pins towards the center.

It was easier to use the screwdriver than my fingers.

I still cannot budge this pin. The white tab that looks like it should swing down is either caught on something or wedged in. I got a screwdriver behind it, but I could not rotate it down. Also got some needle-nosed pliers on it and could not pull it down.

I have not had much access to the car this week, however my next step is to get a Dremel and file that tab off. Assuming I keep the pin intact, it should be ok.

Just wanted to tell anyone from Ford that might be reading this thread.... you suck. There is no excuse to make a cabin air filter change this difficult.
 



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I don't remember just how tight mine were but a screwdriver blade prying a little did the trick to get that tab to rotate down.

Your next trick will be to get the filter door off without breaking the tabs that hold it on. I managed to break both tabs on mine so right now it is held on with duct tape. The new filter box lid is in the glove box waiting for the next go around.
 






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