$200 V8 Project

[RandomNerd2000]

Yeah, that Mountaineer isn't worth it to me, even though the project sounds simple enough. Which V8 swapping the Eddie Bauer, though worth it for THAT truck, and none other I've owned, was simple enough, two years of parts hunting and spare time spent isn't so encouraging to take on another immediately. Still gotta get the transmission in that Eddie Bauer, in 90 degree heat. Ugh.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So finally, a normal repair. Yup, 30K miles out of a $200 vehicle has been reasonably smooth, excluding the transmission and the front end which needs honestly every bushing replaced. That said, the alternator is giving up, swung out to pass yesterday, gave it a hard mash, geared down, battery light came on, ran like that a second or two and went back out. Headlights got dimmer too, sure sign of a voltage drop.

I've been pondering if the alternator was bad as of lately though, the amp for my subs seems to run hotter than normal, and the speakers just aren't that clear, seem weaker than they should too. No problem, I have the old one off my V6 out my Eddie Bauer, plus I have the one in the Mountaineer, but it was stuck when I bought the Mountaineer, which was a bonus because they thought since it wouldn't turn over that the V8 was locked up, best $400 gamble I've ever made. Basically it needs to be worked through, and if I'm not happy there the junkyard has a V8 with a NEW alt on it for like $30, might spend the $30.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those 4G alternators are very good, but limited slightly by the OEM level of diodes etc. But the top versions at 140 amps can handle most stuff. I have four of them now, counting a spare I bought recently. I'm investing in those, by planning to install the Explorer accessories into my Lincoln soon, and a Ranchero later.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I'd forgot about those, I was told the cop cars have them, if I ran more than two lower end 12s, I'd snag one for both cars, and might for the Eddie Bauer yet. Wouldn't surprise me if the speakers were just extra load and overworked it, combined with the excessive miles for this area. People here when they learn how many miles it has on it, act like I'm insane.

 

[CDW6212R]

I think any high optioned model will have the 140 amp, I'm not sure what the other one is, maybe 110 or so. I grew up with 55 amp alternators, and an upgraded version was 80 amps.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I think the other is a 90 amp, or 110. It amazes me the fact over 50 years vehicles got bigger and bigger power plant wise, and now everybody wants the smallest thing on wheels they can find.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So, got extremely busy, then the problem went away with the alt, up until a point, and that point was when I got time to go get one, and it quit charging. Was so dead, the blower and windows didn't even work when I got it home, how it still ran I'll never know. Ended up with the old one off the Eddie Bauer on it temporarily, which has 197K so not overly better but it'll patch until I get the new one from the yard and the bracket, because one of the bolts involved removal with breaker bar. Original alt I'm taking it, with 287,601 miles on it. Tough truck.

This is a whole new truck in some ways now though, seems smoother at hot idle, no surging anymore, the headlights are actually really bright now, and weren't before, got flashed for brights finally, took years to get that much light, I'm proud. Radio is insanely loud now too, best it's been in years, also cranks twice as fast now. I'd figured the starter was toasted as of late, probably ain't far behind but down the road we go again.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So another update, since I halfway enjoy making these for a log of what I've done to it. Since the alternator, we rolled 288 and then 289K problem free. The O2 sensor for the driver's side upstream failed and I went to five miles to the gallon, it was literally plugged off and occasionally I got to exercise walking. Replaced that, and it's like a brand new truck, it'll pull my 5x8 with anything I can put on it without a hitch, can't even tell it's there anymore, and before it was an obvious load. Just a good old vehicle.

New stuff I've got to do, brand new problems, are the AC compressor sounds horrendous, rattles like a marble in a paint can, AC is still ICE though, and the hot weather claimed my battery, which was a cheapo that came in my 2001. Ah well, $50 at Walmart in the morning and it'll be good to go again. AC compressor will likely make the summer, or I hope it will and I'll undertake that in a cooler season. I have one but recovering it sucks in 90+ degree heat

 

[koda2000]

So another update, since I halfway enjoy making these for a log of what I've done to it. Since the alternator, we rolled 288 and then 289K problem free. The O2 sensor for the driver's side upstream failed and I went to five miles to the gallon, it was literally plugged off and occasionally I got to exercise walking. Replaced that, and it's like a brand new truck, it'll pull my 5x8 with anything I can put on it without a hitch, can't even tell it's there anymore, and before it was an obvious load. Just a good old vehicle.

New stuff I've got to do, brand new problems, are the AC compressor sounds horrendous, rattles like a marble in a paint can, AC is still ICE though, and the hot weather claimed my battery, which was a cheapo that came in my 2001. Ah well, $50 at Walmart in the morning and it'll be good to go again. AC compressor will likely make the summer, or I hope it will and I'll undertake that in a cooler season. I have one but recovering it sucks in 90+ degree heat

As your A/C is still cold, the noises you're hearing may just be the clutch. The OE clutches rattle once the rubber insulators wear out and the holes in the outer part get wallowed out. I had one that was so worn out that it totally fell apart in my hands when removing it (bearing and all) but it still blew cold air. Replacing the clutch is pretty easy to do and they're not that expensive new. Don't replace it with the OE style clutch with the 3 posts and rubber insulators. I replaced the clutch on our 2000 Mountaineer almost 100,000 miles ago and it's still quiet and working fine. I think I paid around $80-$90 for the replacement from Advance with a 20% on-line discount. It comes with a new electro-magnet piece too.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, the clutch is the weak link at the compressor, try that first. My AC didn't work three days ago, and I figured it finally was low enough to need freon. I didn't try it again until yesterday, now it works fine again. I think mine may be nearly all untouched AC parts, the clutch is a bit noisy.

I do have one spare compressor though, I bought almost ten years ago, mainly because I could specify the clutch being for a Super Duty. That means it has 8-ribs on the pulley, which I will need for a supercharger later.

So I can rob that clutch if I have to have one quickly.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Well I swapped the clutch, which literally fell apart in my hands and had AC up to where I parked it to change it. How it didn't disassemble driving down the road I'll never know. I did have to change to a much thinner shim than what it came with, it wouldn't even begin to engage with the original thickness, might be that it was a good looking clutch off a reman. I happened up on a locked up compressor searching for a compressor for my 96. Now I have freezing cold AC, and still a rattle, but it's super random now, and it'll go away if I bump the throttle? I have a full set of gauges, I'm going to hook them up and see what's exactly happening to it. It's something AC related I'm sure because if it's rattling you can shut the AC off and it'll instantly quit. The compressor rolls really easy by hand too, so it's throwing me for a loop. In other news, it rolled 290K so there's that.

 

[CDW6212R]

Nice, ice cold AC. Check it with gauges, it might be a little low on freon also. Is the clutch the same type as OEM, and a new one might need a short time of break in to settle into normal sounds.

 

[koda2000]

If the clutch you installed is a used OE 3-post design, they rattle when they get old because the post insulators get brittle and fall out.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Well I drove it earlier and it's quit rattling. I plan on replacing the compressor come winter, when it's not 90 with a heat index of 105. The post insulators falling out is actually what happened in part to the old clutch, the post on one of the three also sheared off and that wasn't ideal. It is the same style clutch as OEM, the one I plan on pulling, if I don't get a RA unit, has the updated clutch on it.

In a perfect world, I'd go to the Mountaineer, vacuum the system (no charge), charge it and see if the AC system is functional. I'm assuming it all leaked out in the years it sat (eight years)

 

[donalds]

It has been hot here to my a.c. unit just couldn't handle it blew up
Had to get 2 window units for now

 

[CDW6212R]

If you have the vacuum pump to at least pull it all down, try to make time to buy and replace the special green o-rings at the AC quick connections. That's where most freon leaks out under normal conditions.

There are also special AL clamps which are made to fit over those connections, which hold them rigid. Those help the o-rings last a lot longer.

 

[koda2000]

It has been hot here to my a.c. unit just couldn't handle it blew up
Had to get 2 window units for now

One of my house HVAC units blew up last summer. Thankfully I managed to get it replaced w/in 2 days. Sucked living w/out it for 2 days for sure. Growing up and living in the northeast I never had A/C in a vehicle until '85. I've had it ever since. Now in Ga I can't imagine living w/out it (house or vehicle). Ideally I'd have a place in New Hampshire for the summers and a place in Florida for the winters.

 

[CDW6212R]

I just got a dehumidifier two days ago. Now I can say I have another heater for Winter, those things blow out a lot of hot air. Down south we need more AC capacity than in the far north, I'm planning to hunt an AC unit for the garage at some point.

 

[koda2000]

I just got a dehumidifier two days ago. Now I can say I have another heater for Winter, those things blow out a lot of hot air. Down south we need more AC capacity than in the far north, I'm planning to hunt an AC unit for the garage at some point.

In last house I had the basement finished and had to install a large 3rd HVAC system. I had it spec'd to also cover my basement garage with a dual zone (a 30'x70' space). That was a pleasure to work in that space. Compared to back then I don't work on vehicles that much, but I sure miss having the A/C.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So update, all is going kinda how I expected at this many miles, it's sitting at almost 293K as we speak, never in a million years would I have expected to drive it this far. It's getting time to put in some actual work on it though, or replace it. I could type a long list but if I was to pick my Mountaineer as clean as it would take to fix this car up right again, there wouldn't be a Mountaineer left. Some parts I've already started picking the Mountaineer for my Eddie Bauer too, I had some nitpick issues with door gaskets and random things that I picked off it. That's life though, $200 cars are $200 cars, and the Eddie Bauer is perfect.

I likely will fix it, or there's plan B, the 96, or plan C, just keep the 96 for a oddball project, and buy a truck I've run across. I ran across a truck that's perked my interest. Four years ago, it was mint, now? Not quite, it's got some problems, neglect mostly. It's a 2000 V8 AWD, no RUST, it's not LOUD, good looking white Eddie Bauer. It's got 3rd gen wheels on it though, and the guy changed the hatch and it's not shutting now, and the tint is purple in it and it's tan it's so nasty.

I've got to sell something off though (my Camry) before buying anything else, and if I did buy it, with what I know about this $200 truck, that would be that, I'd move on.