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Radiator questions...

SteveRosenow

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Joined
June 25, 2019
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City, State
Shelton, Washington
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Ford Explorer XLT
So when installing the new radiator (warranty replacement, ATF was leaking into the coolant from a broken AT cooler), do I install thread sealant or PTFE tape on this part here, or just the threads of the fittings on the AT cooler lines going into the radiator?

48494450356_648dd6bff4_b.jpg
 



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The hardlines should have a flared end so no, no need for sealant.
 






The adapter (part shown in picture) must have thread tape on the threads.
Now, the threads on the fluid cooler lines don't always need thread tape, (flare fitting nut) but it also does not hurt to put some on the threads just to make sure they dont leak. If you do put thread tape on the flare fitting nut, be sure the tape is only on the threads of the nut and does not interfere with the flare interference fit.
 






IIRC the last radiator I changed had O-rings in the holes where the trans cooler lines go. IDK if all the explorer rads I've replaced had O-rings, but I've never used PTFE tape or sealant on any of them and I've never had a leak.

Be sure to use two wrenches when tightening the fittings. One on the rad side to hold that part from moving and another on the fitting to tighten it. They don't need to be super tight to prevent leaking. I little beyond snug has always worked for me.
 






There should be O rings in there like Koda said, no tape or sealant.

The trans cooler lines are flared, no sealant there either

If you were mixing water with your transmission fluid and your auto transmission got water in it, the transmission is doomed.
Water inside the auto trans will remove the friction material off of the bands....it is on borrowed time.
Hate to bring the bad news but it is a fact
 






There should be O rings in there like Koda said, no tape or sealant.

The trans cooler lines are flared, no sealant there either

If you were mixing water with your transmission fluid and your auto transmission got water in it, the transmission is doomed.
Water inside the auto trans will remove the friction material off of the bands....it is on borrowed time.
Hate to bring the bad news but it is a fact

I think I caught it early enough to where no mixing occurred inside the transmission. When I removed the radiator, there was no sign of coolant in the ATF coming out of the cooler.
 






"the transmission is doomed.
Water inside the auto trans will remove the friction material off of the bands....it is on borrowed time.
Hate to bring the bad news but it is
a fact"
SINCE ORIGINAL RADIATOR WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY and failed / caused this I would get transmission rebuild quote and send to radiator manufacturer...tell them you're going to be talking to a lawyer if they resist.
 






"the transmission is doomed.
Water inside the auto trans will remove the friction material off of the bands....it is on borrowed time.
Hate to bring the bad news but it is
a fact"
SINCE ORIGINAL RADIATOR WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY and failed / caused this I would get transmission rebuild quote and send to radiator manufacturer...tell them you're going to be talking to a lawyer if they resist.

More than likely the radiator has a "limited warranty". That usually means the warranty applies only to that part.

As its name implies, a limited warranty is limited to just the specified parts, certain types of defects, or other conditions. But since it can mean virtually anything the retailer decides, it is important to fully understand the meaning of "limited" when buying such a product.
 






Guarantee it's made in China..... with something as critical as a radiator make sure to buy American / or other quality source, like many other products Chinese ones have flooded the market now...
 






The adapter (part shown in picture) must have thread tape on the threads.
Now, the threads on the fluid cooler lines don't always need thread tape, (flare fitting nut) but it also does not hurt to put some on the threads just to make sure they dont leak. If you do put thread tape on the flare fitting nut, be sure the tape is only on the threads of the nut and does not interfere with the flare interference fit.

So I took a deeper look at those fittings on the new radiator and it appears as though they may be sealed already?

I cannot move them at all with even moderate force by way of a Crescent wrench and I am afraid if I break that bond it may damage them.

Do I still remove them and seal them with thread tape or...?
 






So I took a deeper look at those fittings on the new radiator and it appears as though they may be sealed already?

I cannot move them at all with even moderate force by way of a Crescent wrench and I am afraid if I break that bond it may damage them.

Do I still remove them and seal them with thread tape or...?

If they're not leaking don't worry about it. Did you use 2 wrenches when tightening the fittings? As I said earlier the "adapters" do not have to be super tight, but you need to use 2 wrenches when tightening them to not damage the radiator. If they're not leaking currently keep a eye on them for a few days to make sure they remain dry.

BTW a crescent wrench is not a very good tool for this job, or IMO any automotive repair job, but I guess they're better than using vice-grips.
 






If they're not leaking don't worry about it. Did you use 2 wrenches when tightening the fittings? As I said earlier the "adapters" do not have to be super tight, but you need to use 2 wrenches when tightening them to not damage the radiator. If they're not leaking currently keep a eye on them for a few days to make sure they remain dry.

BTW a crescent wrench is not a very good tool for this job, or IMO any automotive repair job, but I guess they're better than using vice-grips.

I can't tell if they're leaking since I have yet to install the radiator. Having said that I would presume since the fittings are in there pretty well snug, that it must have been set that way at the factory with no need for thread tape, right?

I did apply thread tape to the hardline flare nuts, though, and a good amount of it too
 






The hardlines should have a flared end so no, no need for sealant.

IIRC the last radiator I changed had O-rings in the holes where the trans cooler lines go. IDK if all the explorer rads I've replaced had O-rings, but I've never used PTFE tape or sealant on any of them and I've never had a leak.

Be sure to use two wrenches when tightening the fittings. One on the rad side to hold that part from moving and another on the fitting to tighten it. They don't need to be super tight to prevent leaking. I little beyond snug has always worked for me.

There should be O rings in there like Koda said, no tape or sealant.

The trans cooler lines are flared, no sealant there either

You should not be using any kind of sealant on the flared fittings. It can cause the fitting to not properly seat and leak.
 












NO TAPE
the fittings are seated in the new radiator at the factory
Those brass colored fittings that thread into the radiator bottom out on O rings = NO TAPE

the trans cooler line that thread into those brass fittings have a flare = no tape

O rings = no tape
Flare = no tape
 












UPDATE: This thread is now moot since I had to warranty the _BRAND NEW_ radiator through work. The left side tank (looking aft from the front of the vehicle) shattered where it catches the bracket just above the frame.

I discovered this as I was filling it with fresh coolant. I heard what sounded like a waterfall underneath the vehicle when I was filling it, and led to the discovery of a rather large hole where the side tank bracket meets the bracket.
 






No tape just a o ring

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UPDATE:

I followed the directions of all who suggested _NOT_ to use PTFE thread tape or thread sealant AND I STILL ENDED UP LEAKING OUT OF THOSE FITTINGS!!!

What do I do to stop this leak? I am tired of my freshly detailed engine bay wearing ATF all the time and I cannot afford to warranty exchange YET ANOTHER RADIATOR because I may LOSE MY JOB over it.

I feel as though I am perpetually doomed now! :(
 



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PTFE tape will not hurt anything if you use them on the threads. Also, I am guessing you checked that the O-rings were in place prior to installing/connecting?
 






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