Never Done, Build Thread for Kenne Bell Supercharged 5.0 Explorer with Ranger Edge Front Clip

[CDW6212R]

That's very good, that will work well for your design.

Thanks for the pictures too. I will have my KB mounted over the driver's VC like the SN95 kits, but that support bracket setup might work well for mine also. I'll mount the back with a steel bracket to the left head, but the front is trickier due to the pulley and belt.

 

[Derek99whitesport]

Won't that be putting a lot of side loading onto just 2 studs? The bracket looks nice and beefy and up to the task but are the 2 bolts? ARP stud replacement maybe?

Or maybe I'm overthinking this. The Explorer xpresskit uses a much bigger bottom plate with a lot of bolts but then an adjustable top plate that just sits under the supercharger snout without actually wrapping around it. The Kenne Bell kit that you have does a full wrap at the top around the snout which would not allow any movement at the top of the mount.
That definitely would be a lot easier and cheaper to make. Even in a 2 piece design.

Thanks for the pictures :^)

 

[CDW6212R]

The snout support should really just be to oppose the force of the belt pulling down, in the type which is mounted to the lower intake. Most of the weight is supported by the plenum bolted to the blower body.

 

[Blown]

Crank Pulley Bolted-up with spacer welded to it. It looks great, but I need to put the dial indicator on it, make it strait and then drill to plug weld it.

 

[Blown]

Won't that be putting a lot of side loading onto just 2 studs? The bracket looks nice and beefy and up to the task but are the 2 bolts? :^)

It is the Kenne Bell design ran successfully for years. This is a proven kit it, it just needs some messaging to work on this X. No way this stuff fits the superchargers you grabbed. Read back if you would to see what I am doing but it has little to do with what will work for those blowers.

 

[Derek99whitesport]

Pulleys look nice and straight.

Red squiggly line is belt.
Blue line is the force that the bracket has to oppose vertically.
Orange line is the forces that need to be opposed horizontally.
However hard it pulls "down" it then also pulls with the same force to the "side".

I guess none of this applies to you though as you are doing a secondary belt feed to the blower. As long as you put the idler and tensioner vertically you should have zero side load.

 

[Blown]

((14.7+Boost) / 14.7) x (engine liters / 2)) / Supercharger Size liters = Theoretical Pully Ratio*

12.05 at 5400"

((12.05 + 5lbs/12.05) X (5.0/2)) / 2.2liter = 1.61:1

4" pulley = 1.56 or a wee bit under 5 lbs at 5,400'

If it fits under the hood, I will start with the 4" pulley.
3 5/16" blower pulley = 1.89:1 or 8lbs boost at 5,400'

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a good place to shoot for to begin, lower boost levels. I'm hoping something in the 3.5" range will work with the stock 6" crank pulley, and the engine survive. I'd like to use the same pulley when I later swap the engine and a 7" crank pulley, and see where that falls. I like the idea of keeping the blower speed near two to one ratio, or 12k max or so, given 18k being the suggested limit. The blower pulley is where that adjustment is made.

 

[Derek99whitesport]

It is the Kenne Bell design ran successfully for years. This is a proven kit it, it just needs some messaging to work on this X. No way this stuff fits the superchargers you grabbed. Read back if you would to see what I am doing but it has little to do with what will work for those blowers.

My bad.
I don't know how but I missed all of page 2...fat fingers and small buttons I guess :^/

Looking good though :^)

 

[77'cj7]

I picked up a pair of terminator mustang superchargers last weekend. One ported and one factory. Plus the factory intercooler and a BBK 63mm twin throttle body. I think I need that EE bracket badly if I am going to pull this off with Vroomzoomboom's m112 intake dimensions.
So many thanks if you can get me the dimensions on that bracket

I went out to the shop to measure the snout support, and came to the realization that you were talking about the whole front plate.

I will remove mine and trace it for you if you are actually building one. I don’t want to waste that much time and effort if it wont get built. Let me know if you’re serious and I’ll get it done.

Not sure if I’ll have to pull fan or not, definitely have to remove all idlers.

I also have the EE manual showing bolt and spacer sizes if you need it.

Chris

 

[Derek99whitesport]

I went out to the shop to measure the snout support, and came to the realization that you were talking about the whole front plate.

I will remove mine and trace it for you if you are actually building one. I don’t want to waste that much time and effort if it wont get built. Let me know if you’re serious and I’ll get it done.

Not sure if I’ll have to pull fan or not, definitely have to remove all idlers.

I also have the EE manual showing bolt and spacer sizes if you need it.

Chris

Chris I couldn't possibly ask you to go through all that work to take it off and trace it especially if it is a daily driver but I am very serious and a tracing of the outline and the holes is exactly what I need. I have a buddy with a 5.0 swapped ranger and he wants whichever supercharger I do not use so I will be making 2 supports.
Whenever it works for you I would absolutely love to get that template from you :^)

 

[Derek99whitesport]

I went out to the shop to measure the snout support, and came to the realization that you were talking about the whole front plate.

I will remove mine and trace it for you if you are actually building one. I don’t want to waste that much time and effort if it wont get built. Let me know if you’re serious and I’ll get it done.

Not sure if I’ll have to pull fan or not, definitely have to remove all idlers.

I also have the EE manual showing bolt and spacer sizes if you need it.

Chris

I have the EE installation manual already. 10 pages of it. Is that what you have as well?

 

[77'cj7]

Chris I couldn't possibly ask you to go through all that work to take it off and trace it especially if it is a daily driver but I am very serious and a tracing of the outline and the holes is exactly what I need. I have a buddy with a 5.0 swapped ranger and he wants whichever supercharger I do not use so I will be making 2 supports.
Whenever it works for you I would absolutely love to get that template from you :^)

Lol, its certainly not a daily anymore. Currently sitting with the supercharger off and intake taped up waiting for the fabricator to finish my inlet. (Fast, cheap, and well done; pick any two)

Pulling the front plate will be easier at least. I’ll try to get to it sometime this week.

I have the EE installation manual already. 10 pages of it. Is that what you have as well?

Interesting, mine is 6 pages. You may have a newer version.

Chris

 

[Derek99whitesport]

10 single pages. Photocopies of an original

 

[Blown]

Ya know, this was my build thread. There are PM's and other ways like starting your own post to get your questions answered. This is a mess and much of it not related to my build.

This was posted before the unrelated stuff and someone expressing concerns before they read my posts. Not to be a dick, but common guys, my stuff is lost in yours. I made progress yesterday and here is what I posted:

((14.7+Boost) / 14.7) x (engine liters / 2)) / Supercharger Size liters = Theoretical Pully Ratio*

12.05 at 5400"

((12.05 + 5lbs/12.05) X (5.0/2)) / 2.2liter = 1.61:1

4" pulley = 1.56 or a wee bit under 5 lbs at 5,400'

If it fits under the hood, I will start with the 4" pulley.
3 5/16" blower pulley = 1.89:1 or 8lbs boost at 5,400'

Crank Pulley Bolted-up with spacer welded to it. It looks great, but I need to put the dial indicator on it, make it strait and then drill to plug weld it.

 

[Blown]

That's a good place to shoot for to begin, lower boost levels. I'm hoping something in the 3.5" range will work with the stock 6" crank pulley, and the engine survive. I'd like to use the same pulley when I later swap the engine and a 7" crank pulley, and see where that falls. I like the idea of keeping the blower speed near two to one ratio, or 12k max or so, given 18k being the suggested limit. The blower pulley is where that adjustment is made.

Yup, this old kit came with a 4- 4 1/8" pulley for the blower as it does not have a bypass valve. I can't run more boost until I set-up a bypass. It's also an old engine so I'll take it easy on it till I get it rebuilt.

 

[77'cj7]

What size is the crank pulley you’re adding? From the pulley ratio you posted, I assume 6.25” ?
Chris

 

[77'cj7]

I would also suggest moving your IAT to after the supercharger. The gen 2 lightning IAT2 is a plug and play in the explorer harness. You will have to compensate in the tune, of course.

The non-intercooled kenne bells build heat ridiculously fast under boost. Without a bypass, it doesn’t allow them to cool back down out of boost. Monitoring the post supercharger IATs should help you keep the motor alive, with some aggressive timing retards.

Chris

 

[Blown]

6.25 Crank Pulley.

Yup, I got an adapter from old MAF to NEW from an old build and won't need it.

I got a vacuum controlled boost bypass ordered and will plumb it in, It was for a Mini Cooper and less than a $100.

I have always added more boost/smaller supercharger pulley and I like about 8lbs without intercooling. That may be too much with stock exhaust.

I would move IAT but am not sure the EEC will compensate quick enough to make a difference? I have heard of that, nothing on you, I need to read some proof it works. It doesn't take long to predetonate and blow an engine. I have not relied upon the EEC to read IAT and drop timing. I have kept boost down and my tune appropriate. I would read-up if you got a source and I will search.

My tune is built, I'll post-up some of my tune and have looked at IAT and timing. I could post that table. I have always had two tunes one mild with lower timing for lower altitude/bad gas/whatever is causing ping and one for here at,5,000'. I certainly can't switch tunes fast enough to save the engine under high load and boost. I advanced timing in my stock NA tune by 3 degrees at this altitude.

 

[CDW6212R]

The IAT is in the air inlet pipe, the coolest air, and the PCM will assume the air at the heads is about the same. Moving it to the outlet side of the blower will tell the PCM that the air is hotter, which should back off the timing and fuel some. That will help the existing tune, and make it easier to adjust the programming also.