My 2001 Ranger Edge 4x4 Supercab

[CDW6212R]

That worn brake pad if it was much worse than the other, could be a dragging caliper.

I had rear pads go after about nine months, so I replaced both calipers. One side again wore fast, about a year and it looked 80% gone. So I got Autozone to replace that one again, and this time I've got about 15 months with near half the pads left. Old calipers can cost you some extra money and work.

 

[4pointslow]

Yes, the calipers are old too.
The pull went away so I think it is ok, but you never know.
If the pull comes back or the pads seem to be wearing on the left side again, I will replace the calipers or rebuild them.

 

[CDW6212R]

Rebuilding calipers is wise if the cores are suspect that come from parts stores. The Mustang steering racks are a great example, the Fox cars are a crap shoot to go buy one from a store.

 

[4pointslow]

Any thoughts on the high frequency, high speed vibration?
I pulled the front shaft out and the vibration was still there so its not the front.
My original rear driveshaft had somethin rattling around inside it, so I replaced it with a used one.
The used one looked like it had something welded to it for balancing but it had fallen off so it might just be the rear shaft still.
I plan to have the original shaft rebuilt and see how that goes.

If that doesn't get rid of the vibration, what could cause a high frequency vibration at around 80-85 MPH?
Pinion bearing? Transfer case or transmission?
Feels like it is coming from the back but vibrations and noises can be very misleading.
Also there is a speed limiter at about 88-90 MPH, its not the limiter because the vibration starts before that around 80-85.
The truck is smooth up to about 80 mph, you would never know the vibration exists if you didn't go over 70.

One other though is that maybe there is no counter balance shaft assembly in the engine but there should be? Its is 4wd.
If I can get a look at the back of the engine I can check the vin to see if the engine has been swapped. The truck does have 280,000 something miles on it.

 

[boominXplorer]

No bearing would cause any vibration without any noise with it. High speed vibrations could be a number of things from driveshafts, axle shaft, exhaust bent to where it's tight at the mounts transferring vibrations at higher constant rpm or tires. There should be a weight on the back of the t-case near the shift motor for harmonic vibrations.

 

[410Fortune]

wheel weights? Not alot of shops will balance the tires over 75 mph and some will be like glass.
Try swapping tires front to back and try again.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, and overall tightness of all parts need to be good while diagnosing that kind of vibration. I like the tire suggestion, try swapping them as an easy test for vibrations. If all seems good, then the hub bearings and drive shafts are prime items to check or re-balance.

What does balancing a drive shaft cost where you guys are, the last one I had done was high I thought? I believe it was over $50 as part of building my front 4WD shaft.

 

[4pointslow]

Thanks guys for the reply's.
I will have to check to see if there is a vibration damper(weight) on the transfer case, maybe that is missing.
It does feel like a harmonic vibration and I do hear a buzzing at the same time?

I balanced the tires myself so I cant blame any tire guy. LOL.
I did rotate them and no change.
Now think about frequency of vibrations, how fast do tires turn? How fast do driveshafts turn? Axles?
The vibration is very fast, has to be speed of driveshaft, transmission output shaft,transfer case or something like that.
The tires and axles spin 4.10 times slower with 4.10 gears.
It happens in overdrive so the transmission output shaft, Transfer case and driveshaft would be spinning faster than anything else.
Its so fast it seems like a buzzing kind of feeling (trying to describe it).

There are no bearing noises, but I do have an occasional clank coming from the very back end. I am hoping it is just axle/leaf spring wrap.
I don't see any rusted leaf spring mounts or anything like that.
The exhaust is also in good shape, all hanging from rubber mounts and I had the flange with spring bolts replaced.
This vibration has been there since I bought the truck too.

I do have an EVA which is an electric vibration analyzer, I should measure the vibration to see what actual frequency it is.
I am still going to have the original shaft rebuilt and balanced,
its a couple hundred for the whole job usually and they can even cut off the old slip joint and weld in a new one. They are that good.
I don't know what balancing alone would cost.
Thanks for everyone's input, it helps me think. If I find out what it is I will update this thread.

 

[CDW6212R]

I hope we helped, we know you have a good grasp of what parts might cause such vibrations. Getting other opinions and ideas can often help. Let us know what it ends up being, or if you decide to live with it.

 

[EddieMoney]

I had a speed wobble at similar speeds

 

[410Fortune]

Thats a cv shaft! But we know what you meant because of the pic LOL

Have you checked the rear pinion for play? With the clunk you describe and a vibration I would put the rear in the air the truck in N and look for any excessive play in the pinion

 

[EddieMoney]

Thats a cv shaft! But we know what you meant because of the pic LOL

Have you checked the rear pinion for play? With the clunk you describe and a vibration I would put the rear in the air the truck in N and look for any excessive play in the pinion

Lol. You caught me. I am not an expert.... picks up a fork full of humble pie...I'm just sharing a recent experience..

 

[4pointslow]

Just some updates.
This past Saturday I installed my original driveshaft which I had rebuilt and balanced.
The original driveshaft had something rattling around inside it, so the place I deal with is awesome and they cut it open and removed a metal ring that was loose inside the driveshaft.
They balanced it when done.
The vibration is still there. I did spin the pinion shaft when the drive shaft was out and it felt smooth and no play in or out or up and down.
I will check it out further when I can find the time, just real busy right now.
Maybe its the front pinion shaft causing the vibration, I did have the front driveshaft out and vibration was still there.

 

[4pointslow]

 

[4pointslow]

Also there is a vibration damper on the Transfer case, it is still there.

 

[4pointslow]

A while back I had a small heater hose fail on my way to work.
Over heated and had to be towed home.

After fixing it I still smelled coolant every once in a while.
Can you see the leak?

Here is a close up.

Apparently over heating caused premature seal failure on my Motorcraft water pump, that I just replaced not that long ago.
I had to use an aftermarket water pump this time, so I got one from Advance Auto Parts. It is the CARQUEST water pump.
Hope this one lasts at least a year or longer.

I noticed something else while I was replacing the water pump, can you see whats missing?

I found a bolt in my tool box to secure that crank sensor.

 

[410Fortune]

what the heck! It was running without the crank sensor bolt? HAHAHAHA cool

 

[CDW6212R]

There are two bolts I think, but that is wild to have the WP go bad so soon.

Do you know how hot it got? I hit 270* and one other time near 280* with my 99 SOHC, thankfully it didn't hurt anything either time, just the T'stat.

 

[4pointslow]

It got hot enough to turn the check gauges light on and the temp gauge went all the way to the hot side.
It just started pinging when I shut it down on the side of the road.

Sucks to have a Motorcraft water pump go out just after a year but these things happen when you over heat an engine.
Now I have a CARQUEST water pump, cant wait to see how long this one lasts.

 

[CDW6212R]

Mine was a NAPA WP, and it leaked when I first put coolant in it. The casting line went down the lower hose inlet, and it was so bad the hose didn't seal to it. I had to file it down level, from under the truck. We have to do weird things working on cars.