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Welding lug nut stud

Floridaexplorer43

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Joined
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City, State
Tallahassee, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 4wd 4 0
I was told the part that locks the stud is damaged and I should get the back side welded so weld the stud in. I was alsontood if there welding machine was working that would have just welded a stud in. Is flux core arc weld (fcaw) sufficient? Should I just tack weld the back or fully flux core weld the back of stud? I've had several studs break and I'm told because the stud cant lock in the back
 



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What's with all the spam ads and seldom.responses on this site?
 






You posted at 3:33pm and one minute later at 3:34pm you ask what’s up with seldom responses!? :dunno:
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I was told the part that locks the stud is damaged and I should get the back side welded so weld the stud in. I was alsontood if there welding machine was working that would have just welded a stud in. Is flux core arc weld (fcaw) sufficient? Should I just tack weld the back or fully flux core weld the back of stud? I've had several studs break and I'm told because the stud cant lock in the back
@Floridaexplorer43

Of course, welding a stud in place means if you break that one, you use only the remaining 4, or throw away the hub. Those striated upraised portions on the shank of the stud hold it from falling out backwards when the wheel is removed, as well as keep the stud from turning while tightening.

You can easily upset enough metal on the stud's shank using a sharp, vee-shaped cold chisel point, to achieve what the original striations no longer do. imp
 






You posted at 3:33pm and one minute later at 3:34pm you ask what’s up with seldom responses!? :dunno:
Yes there are ads on this site if you’re not a member.
See my last thread??
834 PM
 






@Floridaexplorer43

Of course, welding a stud in place means if you break that one, you use only the remaining 4, or throw away the hub. Those striated upraised portions on the shank of the stud hold it from falling out backwards when the wheel is removed, as well as keep the stud from turning while tightening.

You can easily upset enough metal on the stud's shank using a sharp, vee-shaped cold chisel point, to achieve what the original striations no longer do. imp
I believe mechanic stated the holes were wallowed out and dont hiked the stud, so flux core weld the back sufficient? Tack or fully weld?
 






You posted at 3:33pm and one minute later at 3:34pm you ask what’s up with seldom responses!? :dunno:
Yes there are ads on this site if you’re not a member.
I though I was a member.
I'm getting a bunch of videos playing now when I access this site.
 






If the hole is damaged (elongated), replace the hub. Welding it wouldn't be safe if the stud isn't supported through the hub.
 






replace the hub
 


















I don't think they could get it off if it requires removing the axle nut

What kind of a mechanic is this? The axle nut is a 30mm deep well, not some fancy unobtainable specialty tool. Moreover, if the mechanic can't (or won't) remove the axle nut, it's probably not a person you should trust to be doing this type of repair to your vehicle. As it happens, I just replaced one of my front hubs this afternoon; it's not a terribly difficult job (especially if you're in a place where rust isn't an issue).
 












Before I bought Explorer it obviously spent time up north in the salt. The threads look almost gone. I had to replace the hitch, the upper control arms had to be cut out. One place flat out refused to even work on my Explorer.I think last mechanic tried to remove hub to replace studs and dont think he was able to remove hub.
 






Then you definitely need a new hub and a new mechanic. Sounds like you may need more than a new hub!
 












I believe mechanic stated the holes were wallowed out and dont hiked the stud, so flux core weld the back sufficient? Tack or fully weld?
@Floridaexplorer43

Bottom line is, if the holes ARE badly wallowed out, welding of any kind from the back will still allow bending of the studs to a degree, no matter how tight they are. So, failure by breaking off is a possibility. imp
 






Look on the bright side. It probably wasn't going to be too much longer until you needed new hubs anyway. They don't last forever and yours is now at end of life.

Welding a lug on an oversized hole is very dangerous. Driving will flex the stud and the weld will break loose. Do not go to this mechanic again because his advise is very dangerous.
 






I though I was a member.
I'm getting a bunch of videos playing now when I access this site.
Member means paid, "Elite Explorer" member:
https://www.explorerforum.com/xenforo/index.php?account/upgrades

Videos playing? That is odd, I see no videos, not even on a different browser with no add-ons to block ads or scripts, etc, even when I'm not logged in to the site.

I wonder if you have some malware that installed a BHO (browser helper object) that is injecting these videos into the web pages you load.
 



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I hesitate to give this suggestion because I don't know if the structural integrity would be compromised too much, but if forced to choose, I'd sooner drill new lug holes in the hub, between the existing holes, rather than welding studs, but to do that right you'll probably need a minimum of a modest sized drill press and a cobalt or harder bit of exactly the right size.

If you wanted to then weld-fill the old holes, you could do that too, but frankly it is a lot of work to try to get a small amount of additional life out of an old hub.
 






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