Door Striker Bolts/Bushings | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Door Striker Bolts/Bushings

If it helps, I just replaced the strickers on the Navajo. I pulled them out of my '00 sport doner. They fit fine and the doors close perfect now.
 



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This is what I used a piece of pvc worked first time
Will never look back
All I did was cut it to size doors all work great and shut easy one of the first fixes I did on my explorer

IMG_20181103_1417423_rewind_kindlephoto-10363764.jpg
 






I've tried a couple of things but am now using a clear tubing from Home Depot. I think it is 1/2", not sure at the moment. But, I have to soften it up with hot water and press it on while soft, then trim it to length. This is working fine on two Explorers and a 4 door F250. Even the rear hatch on the Explorers.
 






Are the 4 strikers the same for the side doors? The Dorman 38445 part says it’s only for the front. I’m wondering if they say that so people don’t try and install it on the hatch.
 






Are the 4 strikers the same for the side doors?

Yes. Front and rear door strikers are the same.

Good luck.
 






Ditto, those are the only good alternatives to the OEM strikers. The Help kits with four bushings have the two for the hatch.
 






Do they all have a bushing ? My door had some play in it, so I loosened the striker and moved it in 1/4 inch, it closes tight now easily and is quiet inside again . 2001 sport model
 






Do they all have a bushing ? My door had some play in it, so I loosened the striker and moved it in 1/4 inch, it closes tight now easily and is quiet inside again . 2001 sport model

Yes, they are supposed to have plastic bushings on the bolts. Without the bushings the door latches make a loud click when the doors are closed and the doors will be loose.
 






Yes, they are supposed to have plastic bushings on the bolts. Without the bushings the door latches make a loud click when the doors are closed and the doors will be loose.

This was my experience. Going over bumps the doors would rattle a bit. After the pex tubing (bushings) the doors are tight and don’t rattle over bumps any more.
 






This was my experience. Going over bumps the doors would rattle a bit. After the pex tubing (bushings) the doors are tight and don’t rattle ove rub,ps any more.

My only problem with the PEX tubing was the one I got from Home Depot was just a little bit to large in the OD. Once I turned them down to the OD of a new OE bushing I had they fit/work great. IDK how long it's been since I made a set of 4 for my '00 Mountaineer, but I think it's now been 2-3 years ago. I was looking at the one on the driver's door the other day (figuring the driver's door gets opened/closed the most) and the PEX shows no wear at all. I believe the PEX is far superior to OE and Dorman's crap bushings.
 






Yes, they are supposed to have plastic bushings on the bolts. Without the bushings the door latches make a loud click when the doors are closed and the doors will be loose.
All quiet ,wife commented how quiet the truck was now )
 






That’s high praise lol
 






The PEX idea works great, I replaced the ones on my 2000 with some PEX I found in a scrap pile, hot water pipe to be precise, didn't have to trim mine down any, and the doors shut great now. I might have to trim them once I get the 290K mile latches changed though, the screws won't stay tight and they're so worn they're binding.
 






I had to do some work with my new white 98 today. One door was not opening without force to push it or pull it, and once I got to looking, one hatch striker bushing was breaking apart.

So I bought another one of those HELP kits from a parts store($4) to get the right hatch bushing. I replaced the one door striker too, it and two others were cracked. Lubricating all of the six latches helped a lot, I used PB Blaster first, and then some white lithium grease. The latches do become tight/sticky with age, the old materials and dust etc, gum them up.
 






Money saving tip, but not a permanent fix: if your bushings are wearing thin, but not broken or damaged, remove the striker, turn the bushing around, reinstall striker. I did that on my driver door, just to see what happens. Works fine. Note that mine bushings were not severely thin, just worn down some.
 






^ Great idea unless they've been 'turned around" before. LOL

Uet63jR.jpg


^ Those are my original tired and worn front bushings. That's when I decided to fabricate "bullet proof" metal bushings from Moog K7275 end link spacers shown below and in the bottom pic. MANY years later and no signs of wear.

Worn OE, custom metal, and Dorman bushings.
5tE8j42.jpg
IovtUcN.jpg
 






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