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Clutch Problems

Shinibents

Member
Joined
January 15, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Superior, WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
'01 Ranger 4.0
Got another question for you guys.

I've got a 5 speed manual and when my clutch gets warm it gets harder to get into gear. It seems to have enough fluid. I'm going to be attempting to bleed the clutch. I was just wondering if there are any other suggestions for it?

I've heard everything from replace the clutch to replace the tranny, even that something in the clutch is bent.

Thanks,

SB
 



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It's worth a try to bleed it first since it's cheap and doesn't take too long. I had a similar problem and bleeding the clutch helped a lot. One thing though-- don't use the Haynes manual procedure-- they say you can pretty much just let it bleed itself by opening the bleeder valve and letting the liquid flow. When I tried this, it actually made the clutch worse.

Be sure to follow the factory manual bleed procedure.
 






The Procedure:


Under normal conditions, disconnecting the clutch coupling will not introduce air into the system. However, if there appears to be air in the system (spongy pedal, or insufficient bearing travel), the system must be bled. The following procedure is used with the hydraulic system installed on the vehicle.

1. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission with Clutch Coupling Tool T88T-70522-A by sliding the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the clutch tube.

2. Clean dirt and grease from around the reservoir cap.

3. Remove cap and diaphragm and fill reservoir to the step with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or -BA (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent. Brake fluid must be certified to DOT 3 specification.

4. Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male coupling to open the valve. While continuing to hold the valve open, slowly depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold.

5. Remove the screwdriver from the coupling, closing the valve.

6. Release the clutch pedal.

7. Refill reservoir to level at step.

NOTE:
The reservoir must be kept full at all times to ensure that there will be no additional introduction of air to the system.

8. Repeat Steps 4 through 7.

9. Close reservoir. Reconnect the coupling to the slave cylinder. Check that the connection is secure by applying a slight tug to the clutch tube.

10. Stroke the clutch pedal as rapidly as possible for 5 to 10 strokes.

11. Wait 1 to 3 minutes.

12. Repeat Steps 10 and 11 three more times.

13. Loosen bleed screw (located in the slave cylinder body next to the inlet connection).

14. Depress and hold clutch pedal while tightening bleed screw to 3-5 N-m (2.2-3.7 ft-lb).

15. Refill reservoir to level at step.

16. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should properly release the clutch. Check clutch reserve as described in this section.
 






I would add that you really need to have a buddy help you with this. Have them push the clutch as you let go of the screwdriver so that no air will get in after the clutch is released. Make sure they know that they should stop pushing as soon as they feel resistance though (when you take the screwdriver out).
 






What kind of mileage do you have? These slave cylinders do have a service life. I took mine way past the usable life. It was about 192,000 or so, and i was offroading above Telluride, Colorado, and attempted to weld 1/2 of the slave cylinder to the input shaft. It was ugly. My symptoms were that it was leaking for quite a while. I'd have to add fluid every couple weeks.

Just be cautious. When they go, they leave you wherever you are... :)
 












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