Tires, Gears, effect on MPH and RPM, etc. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Tires, Gears, effect on MPH and RPM, etc.

Most of you "seasoned" folks most likely know all this, but I stumbled upon this and thought I'd pass it on for someone new, FWIW. :cool:

A common 4x4 application is an upgrade to larger-than-stock tires (duh :p ).
Once completed, this change immediately alters vehicle speed at a given rpm, rpm at a given speed, and effective gear ratio, which in turn affect both acceleration and fuel economy (I know, big news flash here). Tire size, drive ratio, mph, and rpm weave an intricate pattern of performance. Change one and all four are affected.; knowing any of the three, the fourth can be easily determined. The following four formulas illustrate the point:

-Tire diameter = mph x drive ratio x 336/Rpm
-Gear ratio = rpm x tire diameter /Mph x 336
-Mph = rpm x tire diameter /Gear ratio x 336
-Rpm = mph x gear ratio x 336 /Tire diameter


If you are contemplating a tire size upgrade and know your rearend gear ratio, the table below will offer a quick reference guide for figuring your engine rpm at 60 mph cruising speed. Likewise, if you measure your tire size and observe rpm and mph, you can calculate what gears are in your axles.

How To Calculate Actual Speed:
With the change to taller tires, your speedometer will read "slower" than the actual vehicle speed. To determine the percentage of speedometer error, the formula is a simple relationship between old and new tire diameters.

-Actual Speed = new tire diameter x indicated speed /Old tire diameter
Example: You have replaced your 28-inch OEM rubber "wimpys" with a new set of 35-inch all-terrain "mud-gobbler ultra x-tremes" and you want to know your actual speed when the speedo reads 60 mph--well read on ;)

-35 inch (new tire) x 60 mph (what speedo reads) /28 (old tire)=75 mph (actual speed)

See...simple :smoke:
----------------------------------------------

Now...

Speedometer ratio adjustment calculation.
Ever wonder how far off your speedometer is with your new bigger tires? By using a simple ratio calculation, this info will only approximate your corrected speed and depends on the accuracy of tire size diameters (assumimg nothing but tire size has changed). If you know specific information about your vehicle (gear ratios, RPM, etc.) then use the Gear Ratio calculator, it's probably a little more accurate.

Formula used (slight variation of above...I love math!!) :bounce:

(New Tire Diameter / Old Tire Diameter) x Speedometer MPH = Actual MPH

Now, another way of looking at this relationship would be to figure what the indicated speed would be if you were actually going 60 mph. In this case, the tire diameter relationship is flip-flopped to:

Indicated Speed = old tire diameter x actual speed /New tire diameter
Using the previous example, your speedometer reading at an actual 60 mph is:

-28 inch x 60 MPH /35 inch = 48 MPH

See, easy!!! OK class, on to GEARS!!!!
-------------------------------------------------

Gearing up:
Using the above tire change as an example, lets say that your vehicle is currently running a 3.40:1 final-drive gear set. Now that you have changed to a taller tire, you want to determine the actual, or effective, final ratio. This can be figured by dividing the old tire diameter by the new, and multiplying by the current gear ratio :)1):

-28 inch (old tire) x 3.40 (your actual stock gear ratio) /35 inch (new tire) = 2.72:1 (final effective drive ratio)

Whoa big fella :nono: Dropping from a 3.40:1 to a 2.72:1 ratio will seriously reduce off-the-line responsiveness and severely affect slow-speed trail capabilities. :banghead:
So, Mr. Trail-Monster, if your new 35-inch all-terrain "mud-gobbler ultra x-tremes" rubber is just what you want, but you now need to restore your vehicle’s low-end, the following formula will allow you to determine what gear set (equivalent) ratio should be installed to compensate:

-Equivalent ratio = new tire diameter x original ratio /Old tire diameter

As in my example:
-35 inch (new tire) x 3.40 (your actual stock gear ratio) /28 inch (old tire) = 4.25:1 (what you need to restore your vehicle’s low-end responsiveness to previous 3.40)

By installing a gear set in the range of 4.25:1, you will not only restore your vehicle’s low-end grunt, you will likewise restore your speedometer’s accuracy. Cool!! :thumbsup:

Ahhh....just a little more...

Figuring gear ratio:
Knowing what gears are in a given axle is a must when considering that axle for a swap. The actual ratio or reference code, will normally be found on either a tag attached to a bolt, or will be stamped into the axle housing. If it cannot be found, there is a simple method for manually (and mathematically :) ) determining the ratio for any axle installed on a vehicle.

Raise both wheels of the axle, with the transmission in Neutral. (Make sure you support the vehicle with safety stands and block the front tires.) Make a reference mark on the driveshaft and on the differential housing. Next, without rotating them, make a mark on both tires and their respective fender wells. With a friend watching the driveshaft, carefully rotate both tires at the same time exactly one revolution. The number of turns the driveshaft makes will indicate the ratio. If the driveshaft rotates 4 ½ turns, for instance, the axle ratio is roughly 4.5:1.

Almost done...

METRIC TIRE TO DIAMETER (INCHES) CALCULATION

Most of the formulas dealing with gear ratios will want a tire diameter (measured in inches). This formula is a quick way to get the tire diameter of those metric tires that are common on just about everything stock. For example a LT265/75R16 would be around 31.6 inches tall and 10 inches wide. Enter any three of the numbers into this form to solve for the fourth. "LT" means Light Truck and "P" means Passenger tire. The bigger number (on the left) is the Section Width. The number to the right of the slash ("/") is the Aspect Ratio (percent of width). The "R" means Radial tire and the last number, far right, is the rim diameter in inches.

Formula used :

-(Section Width x Aspect Ratio x 2) /25.4 + Rim Diameter = Tire Diameter

Width in inches = section width / 25.4
Section Height in inches = Width in inches X Aspect Ratio (%)


Finally... :chug:

GEAR RATIO CALCULATION
If your tires are bigger than stock you either guess at the actual MPH or do something like count the seconds between mile markers on the highway while maintaining 60 on the speedometer. If you know your gear ratios and tire size you can get a fairly close number using this calculating tool. Fill in all entries except the one you want an answer to in green section only. If you'd like to find your overall crawl ratio, enter the Diff/Trans/TransfCase ratios.

Formulas used :

-(RPM x Tire Diameter) / (Diff Ratio x Trans Ratio x Transf Case Ratio x 336) = MPH)

and

(Trans Ratio x Transf Case Ratio x Axle Ratio) = Crawl Ratio


Well, that's it...hope this helps someone, especially some of the new folks...enjoy! :cool:
 



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ya i bet that will help lots of people, good job, hope a MOD will put that in the useful threads to be referenced to in the future(hint hint)

personally i had already dug that info up, still have one question though, does it effect your actual odometer?? cause i'm trying to figure out why i'm getting such poor MPG, with my 31s and 3.73, which others are getting 20 MPG i'm only at around 14, and i drive easy on it. thanks
 






Impressive thread BicVicXLT.
That really helps.
I think that this needs to be moved to Useful Threads.
 






I feel your pain!

Wider tires will affect your gas milage..it takes more torque to turn and they cover more surface...you need more power to move more mass and/or overcome resistance (I like physics too :) ). If you need more power, you will use more fuel, all other things being equal. Taller profile tires may create confusion about gas mileage because they turn fewer revolutions per mile resulting in an odometer error. What appears to be a decrease in mileage may in reality be a slight improvement. So in your case, if your odometer is reading wrong, and you base your mileage on that reading, you will get a false mpg. If you go both taller AND wider, well, it depends how much. They may offset. But if you put on the 35-inch all-terrain "mud-gobbler ultra x-tremes", your mileage will drop :confused:

I would think if the speedometer reads 60 mph, and I am actually going 75 mph, the odometer has to be off and also any calculated fuel mileage. You can determine any odometer error by driving down a road that has mile markers and noting how much the indicated mileage differs from the actual mileage.

You may also experience a different or irratic shift timing pattern if you make a pretty big tire change. For those of you who add electrical gadgets to your car expect to lose 0.25 mile per gallon for each ten-twelve amps of electrical energy consumed. Add a set of fog lamps and a radio that each consume ten-twelve amps and expect to lose nearly 0.5 mile per gallon. That toolbox and those bags of sand in the trunk will cost you to the tune of 0.3 mile per gallon for every 125 pounds of added weight. For good gas mileage lighten your load as much as possible. Highway driving at higher speed automatically means lower gas mileage. Consider this, it takes ~15% more fuel to drive 65 mph than to drive 55 mph. The difference gets worse as the speed increases.
:burnout:

My gas mileage has seem to go down (and most likely has) since I went to 31/10.5/15 from 235/75/15...noticeable for sure. :fire:

And my 5.0 AWD SUCKS GAS...I get 12-13 mpg city (on a good day with a tailwind), and 16-17 mpg on highway with a light load...that's not too good. But EVERY truck I have owned has been bad, even my 1992 6 cyl. XLT (now wrecked) 4x4 only got 15 mpg.

Here are some more formula's:

actual mph = 3600 / seconds per mile

speedometer error percent = difference between actual and indicated speed / actual speed x 100

indicated distance = odometer reading at finish - odometer reading at start

odometer error percent = difference between actual and indicated distances / actual distance x 100

I Love Math!! :smoke:

Hope this helps. ;)
 






Thanks-no biggie!

Thanks rino351...appreciate it...just trying to help...and inject some humor too :)
 






you need to do my homework for me
 






If your speedo is off, you can still accurately calculate your fuel mileage. You just need to know how much its off. In other words, if you're running 33's with stock gears and your speedo is off 6%, then add up your mileage as normal and subtract 6% from that figure.
 






According to the first equation you got there, I have 37" tires :eek: :eek: WOW!!!!!! I have 37s and didn't even know it, that must mean that my tape measure must be off by 8" :eek:

If you want to check my math, it's 3.27 gears, 2200 RPM at 75 mph (5th gear), and 29" (P235/75R15) tires. I did the calculation twice and got the 37.45" tire result twice. It's easy to see why these equations don't work. It's because they don't leave provision for the gear ratio of the transmission, or state that they're assuming your tranny is a 1:1 ratio (4th gear in a 5-spd manual), which is what they're doing. If I had given it my 4th gear (1:1 ratio, not overdrive like in 5th) RMP reading at 75 it looks like it would give me the correct result.

Equations aren't worth posting if they give you eroneous results.
 






I think he is referring to final drive ratio rather than ring and pinion.
 






That would fix it. But it says "gear ratio" not "final drive ratio" or "drive ratio"
 






I tried all four equations.
RPM=1900
MPH=65
Tire Size=31
Gear Ratio=3.55
With those numbers, these are the answers I got.

40.8" tire (I wish!!)
2.69 gear ratio
49.3 mph at 1900 rpm
2501 rpm at 65

Didnt work too well for me.
 












See Links that I posted for your Answers

Wider tires will affect your gas milage..it takes more torque to turn and they cover more surface...you need more power to move more mass and/or overcome resistance (I like physics too :) ). If you need more power, you will use more fuel, all other things being equal. Taller profile tires may create confusion about gas mileage because they turn fewer revolutions per mile resulting in an odometer error. What appears to be a decrease in mileage may in reality be a slight improvement. So in your case, if your odometer is reading wrong, and you base your mileage on that reading, you will get a false mpg. If you go both taller AND wider, well, it depends how much. They may offset. But if you put on the 35-inch all-terrain "mud-gobbler ultra x-tremes", your mileage will drop :confused:

I would think if the speedometer reads 60 mph, and I am actually going 75 mph, the odometer has to be off and also any calculated fuel mileage. You can determine any odometer error by driving down a road that has mile markers and noting how much the indicated mileage differs from the actual mileage.

You may also experience a different or irratic shift timing pattern if you make a pretty big tire change. For those of you who add electrical gadgets to your car expect to lose 0.25 mile per gallon for each ten-twelve amps of electrical energy consumed. Add a set of fog lamps and a radio that each consume ten-twelve amps and expect to lose nearly 0.5 mile per gallon. That toolbox and those bags of sand in the trunk will cost you to the tune of 0.3 mile per gallon for every 125 pounds of added weight. For good gas mileage lighten your load as much as possible. Highway driving at higher speed automatically means lower gas mileage. Consider this, it takes ~15% more fuel to drive 65 mph than to drive 55 mph. The difference gets worse as the speed increases.
:burnout:

My gas mileage has seem to go down (and most likely has) since I went to 31/10.5/15 from 235/75/15...noticeable for sure. :fire:

And my 5.0 AWD SUCKS GAS...I get 12-13 mpg city (on a good day with a tailwind), and 16-17 mpg on highway with a light load...that's not too good. But EVERY truck I have owned has been bad, even my 1992 6 cyl. XLT (now wrecked) 4x4 only got 15 mpg.

Here are some more formula's:

actual mph = 3600 / seconds per mile

speedometer error percent = difference between actual and indicated speed / actual speed x 100

indicated distance = odometer reading at finish - odometer reading at start

odometer error percent = difference between actual and indicated distances / actual distance x 100

I Love Math!! :smoke:

Hope this helps. ;)
 












Edit

I think he is referring to final drive ratio rather than ring and pinion.

Yes, substitute final drive ratio rather than ring and pinion and the formula's will work. ;)

As yosh states in post #8, I didn't leave a provision for the gear ratio of the transmission, or state that I'm assuming your tranny is a 1:1 ratio (4th gear in a 5-spd manual). If I had given it my 4th gear (1:1 ratio, not overdrive like in 5th) RMP reading at 75 would give the correct result.
 






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