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installing fiberglass fenders, help




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Depending on the fenders you'll need to file them to make them fit right. The tool you will want to use is a... file.

Put them on, open and close both doors to see if you'll need to file or not.
 






i've had my stock fenders off and on a few times.

I highly doubt you'll run into any problems so long as you have a helper to get them aligned just right (and i suppose a file or grinder to make adjustments to the shape if necessary)
 






sikamikanico816 said:
what do you mean file down? what kinda tools should i use?

Man, youv'e got me worried with that question. Like FROADER said, file. It may be about an inch wide by 3/16" thick and a foot long. It has grooves in it that run diagonaly or some have a cross hatch pattern, I think thats what they call a bastared file. You must know by now what that tool is.
Not being smart, but maybe you just don't know. At any rate, it is easier to take off the material that has to be sanded or filed, then to add to it. Just take your time.
What other plans to have instore for that 2wd.
 






btw- how much do they charge ya'll for those things?
 






Fitting fiberglass is not too difficult, but the fit and finish is up to you. If you want to keep stock door gaps, hood gaps, etc and fit them really cleanly then some work will be needed for sure.

I have installed a couple sets now on different trucks and every time the rginder, sawzall and drill are needed. We have had to get creative at time and fabricate parts too (Toyota Tundra, Fiberworks glass, mounts were just a "Hair" off, hahaha)
Take your time fitting them, and working out problem area's before you drill.
Get yourself a bunch of medium sized body washers for shimming.

When you drill, start the hole in reverse, tehn once you are through the gel coat, turn the drill to forward. This keeps from spiderwebbing the gel coat.


Drilling the holes oblong shaped will also help fit the fender to the truck, allow some adjusting.

Dont be scared.
 






No one mentioned, but maybe you already realize...you will need to cut/remove some of the stock fender tubs. You can easily cut them with a box cutter, dremel tool or similiar just make sure you don't cut any wires or harnesses attached to them. A lot of guys totally remove them, personally I salvaged as much as I could. I only removed the outer half, saving me from having to relocate a bunch of wires. Once the glass was on, I made a template, and used aluminum flashing to give the fenderwell a nice, clean look underneith.

As for trimming and sanding, I would use a dremel with small cut off wheel, and very fine sanding disc. You could also use a grinder with same, but it's overkill and unless your confident with your skills you could damage the fiberglass.
I never had any problems with my front glass (no trimming req'd) nor with the two buddies when I helped install theirs. It is usually the rear skins that will need the work. Their should be indentations in the fiberglass mold along the top, and side where your holes will need to be drilled (at least mine had)
I re-used all my stock trim, just cut it to fit the fiberglass fenders and re-attached once the glass was on. Alignment is the hardest part, the trick is not to tighten the bolts all the way down. Close the hood...check alignment...make adjustments...tighten some more. Continue till satisfied.

Oh and do all your drilling, sanding, and such first. Then take them off and go drop them off at your local auto paint shop. Mine front glass was $80 to get painted.

Good luck, J.
 






OH yeah the fender skirts, or "gap guards"

I finally made soe for my BII out of ABS plastic. Was about $40 total.
This was a big project, lots of planning with cardboard, making templates. I am still working on some mounting tabs on the fiberglass side because I refuse to drill my fenders. I will get some pictures. These protect my engine bay, door hinges, parking lamps, and inner fender from snow/mud/rain. They also keep the cold air out thank goodness! I kept putting them off until just before this winter.

I will get some pics. All my wires and hoses have been re-located, But he is right you have to re-locate some stuff. I don't think you need to cut anything though? I am able to remove the fender skirts and factory fenders and keep all clips and wire loom press clips in tact.
Prozac can you explain what tabs you mean?
 






Jaimie, Do you mean mounting tabs for fender skirts?
I didn't need tabs, Perry's glass has a small inner lip that runs along the fender; it is about 1/4" or so. I drilled small holes every 6-8" to mount my fender skirt to the glass. I used flathead bolts and nuts to attach to fiberglass side. On the enginebay side, to attach it to the stock ABS, I used sheet metal screws 6-8" apart.
I used ABS at first but didn't like how it looked. Well, actually, it was a rubbermaid trash can from home depot that I cut up... :D Since it is semi-circular it tucks nicely into a fender. Then, I bought some ABS from a performance shop, it was on a 3ft. roll and you just pulled out and cut how ever much you needed. Bored with that, I bought a roll of aluminum flashing from home depot for like $6 bucks. Took the time to trace out a template and cut the aluminum to match. It looks mean as hell and I'm now satisfied ;)

I'll try an get some pics so you can see what I mean.
J.
 






Yes you see I will not drill the lip on my autofab fenders.
I used pieces from the stock fender liners to connect to on the engine side.

I picked up a 4x8 sheet of black ABS from a local plastic place $40
I am fiberglassing metal tabs onto the inside of the fender, the abs will attach to this. It fits really well right now just tucked up in there, but I want to fasten it so snow and ice does ot puch it back.

I will get pictures too.
 






expo5.0 said:
btw- how much do they charge ya'll for those things?
i think those ones are $350, they are usually $350-$400 a set
 






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