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Section525 - D44 2nd gen. leaves SAS

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Well since I have the axle in-hand finally... I guess I can start my thread.

I bought this axle about a month ago from a guy in OR and finally made it around to picking it up yesterday. I watched as he actually took the axle out from under the truck. It's pretty clean.

1983 Jeep Wagoneer LP D44

The plans:
Rubicon Express leaf springs (unless someone suggests otherwise)
4.88s
Detroit

Then SOA the rear, add a locker, and 5x4.5 to 6x5.5 adapters (I heard they make them). So far I am thinking about going 35/36s BFGs or IROKs.

So.... any suggestions?
 

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Josh S got his rear glass on. "Look good."
 



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FROADER said:
Sound cool, keep up the good work!

But **** ain't good. Are you even reading these threads or just spewing your mouth?
 












BWAAAA!

He's just pats you on back and says no problemo ! :p
 






section525 said:
Oh yeah... once you go custom... everything else needs to be customized to work right. :p

I think you nailed that right on the head ;)
 






Cali gansta lean?
 






master cylinder

Check the vacuum line leading to the power brake booster before you do anything else.Not sure if this will help, with my swap didn't have any brake issues. Stainless lines have a smaller I.D. and will add to the line pressure when it kicks down to the caliper. Depending on the newer calipers used the volume it takes to make them work will be greater than the stock setup. You can do one of two things here, replace the master cylinder with a full size which has a larger piston dia. or adjust the rod on the existing M.C. to get a better pedal feel, i.e. sponge to firm. If it's still sponge after doing this then you have a leak... looks good
 






Cali' Explorer said I should bench bleed the cylinder. So, this is probably a good idea because someone was in the truck pumping the brakes while the front lines were off (not knowing it). Could that have caused an issue?
 






bottomed out the master cylinder, yes it can cause issue, like ruin your master :)
 






So should I buy another one??
 






It might be what you need... He's right about bottoming the master cylinder. You never want to press the pedal all the way to the floor with the lines disconnected. The piston in the master cylinder wears out the bore that it travels in. When the lines are disconnected you can push the piston past it's normal travel and it ends up causing an internal leak.

This is important to know when bleeding the brakes. You need to have your helper only press the pedal about half way through it's travel when he pumps to build pressure.
 






Stic-o said:
Rick did you just run the lines through you ABS, or did you by pass it? I can't rember what jefe did? :rolleyes:
I still have everything going through the ABS module, though the module got relocated. Two reasons I kept it. 1. it is creating the VSS signal and 2. no one could give me an answer as to whether it was the proportioning valve or if that is done internally in the master cylinder.

9-28_1.jpg
 






So I should buy a new one? Or try bench bleeding it?
 






Jefe said:
I still have everything going through the ABS module, though the module got relocated. Two reasons I kept it. 1. it is creating the VSS signal and 2. no one could give me an answer as to whether it was the proportioning valve or if that is done internally in the master cylinder.

9-28_1.jpg

Good I was paying attention, because that was my plan :D

Sec. as my father-in-law would say "You Fu(4 it up!" Buy anew one, or go to the bone yard for one. It's kind of a important feature of the car :D
 






try bleeding it, if not better then buy one for fullsize F150. They may be the same because wieght is about the same as with a single cab
 






Here's the specs on the Explorer MC:

# of Line Ports:3
Bore Size:1.06250
Finish:Rust-Preventative Finish
Line Thread Size:M10-1.0
M12-1.0
3/8-24

The F150 uses the same bore size. Just SAE line threads. :confused:

An F250 has a 1.375 bore but also SAE line threads. :(


Expedition

# of Line Ports:3
Bore Size:1.25000
Finish:Rust-Preventative Finish
Line Thread Size:M18-1.5
9/16-18
3/8-24



I'm not finding anything with the same line thread as what I have now. :( So maybe after we get the pinion angle set, the perches welded on, and bled one more time (with two people), we'll investigate a little further.

I wonder how Stic is doing tonight.
 






Just buy a new stock ex MC- they are cheap. If someone pushed the pedal to the floor with the front lines open/off then 1- it needs to be bench bled and 2- dont bother bench bleeding it because its ruined now anyway.
 






i would say try bleeding it maby it isnt ruined....if it doesnt work then get a new master cylinder.
 



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best to be safe and buy a new one, didn't know that they still use standard thread on the fullsize stuff. I ajusted the rod on my M.C. after doing the swap. The shop who made my flex lines were a little confused as to why I had metric from M.C. to standard on the axle side. Had to explain that my truck had D44 front and 9-inch in the rear. That left them more confused, had one of the guys screaming that Ford never put those on a Ranger.
 






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