How to: - 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary | Page 12 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
I moved some threads here to their own separate topic thread. We are starting to use this thread as a general 5R55E problem thread. I am going toclose this thread for a few days so people with problems start their own threads. No offense meant, none taken.

This thread is about rebuilding the 5R55E Valve body only. If you have problems and want help, start a thread and we will try and help you. If you have data or pictures or useful information related to rebuilding the 5R55E Valve body, feel free to post here.
 



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Some have asked for directions on removing the Valve Body from the transmission. Bigg Billy posted a great thread detailing his approach, and here's a link to it:

It is entitled "Stairway to a Diary" and is a great post about someone doing it themselves using this thread as a guide. Adds a lot to the information and comfort level.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154655

ps. the VB Rebuild cured his problems, but they were probably caused by a blown out gasket mainly anyway.

THANK YOU BIGG BILLY !
 






AND THANK YOU ALL FOR NOT USING THIS THREAD AS A PLACE TO POST YOUR OWN 5R55E VALVE BODY PROBLEMS AND QUESTIONS !!!! I appreciate it.
 






I just got the Transgo kit in today and see that there are quite a few things that no one here mentions... did they upgrade the kits possibly or are these just insignificant mods?

1. there is a tapered orifice that you install into the 2nd band feed hole in the trans case.

2. They give specific instructions to adjust all the bands.

3. There are some new shims and scarf cut seals for the center support/pump housing.

4. They give you the option of installing both yellow and orange springs for HD applications and harder shifts.

I've read this entire post and didn't see any of this mentioned so I was just throwing it out there.
 






I think I showed the contents of the Transgo kit early on... everything you describe I think I showed. HOWEVER, since I did not install it, you are correct, I did not discuss usage of the contents at all. If you want to do a photo shoot of your install I will append it to this thread, that would be helpful.

[NOTE: He also send some nice shots of a VB breakdown with part listings and a tabular form of the TSB info, which I inserted into the Diary up front (with attribution). Thanks DONNY !]
 






I went back and re-read the first few pages and your are correct glacier, you did mention the transgo kit components that I asked about, I just looked over it I guess.

I finally got my kit installed and it didn't go so well at all... I started another thread asking for help so if you have a moment I could really use your help man!

Oh, I'm glad the pics were helpful.
 






Chris,

I just got off the phone with Transgo and I think I may have found a mistake in the first part of the diary...

The rivet that transgo has you install in the sep. plate has nothing to do with the EPC relief or blowoff. It is part of the forward control "mod" according to the tech. He briefly explained to me that they do this mod just in case the EPC solenoid "hiccups" that it doesn't cause serious issues elsewhere in the trans. He also confirmed that the Ford mod blowoff and sep. plate are totally compatible with the transgo kit.

Just wanted to drop the FYI....
 






Thanks! That's what I get for assuming. Since I didn't do the transgo kit I should just have kept my mouth shut. I'll go back and fix it. I appreciate the heads up and the info.
 






Sure thing. Thanks again for all the great help and diary, I couldn't have done this without it!
 






Ditto, just what they told me. I had that conversation just before buying any other parts. I had the TransGo kit and EPC, and needed to know if any or all of the Ford parts were needed.

It looks like I will need another few weeks to get my 99 driveable. I know that I'm slow, it's tough to work at a friend's house, around their schedule, and work, weather, and commuting. Maybe next month I can contribute by saying what the TransGo kit does alone. Regards,
 






I just want to say thank you to all who posted here. Especially Glacier991. I had the same problem. Thought I'd do alittle research before having the tranny rebuilt. Came across this great site. Last week end I did the Ford TSB update, Superior shift kit (except the thermal blocker, the bag of red springs and resistor) and a new EPC solenoid and bracket. The thing works great so far. Took most the afternoon and you all saved me a lot of money. So thanks again to all.
 






Glad we could help. There is a TON of great info here and as many great poeple... from all your savings why not JOIN us... and become an elite explorer... help support what we do.

AND... thank you for the kind words. It is posts like yours that make it all worthwhile. Bravo on your success!

ps. I am starting to have a supply of those little red springs too... but I slowly use them up as I rebuild trannies...
 






I would like to remove valvebody as a complete unit im not sure wich bolts i should remove to do this all bolts are the same size 2000 explorer 5r55e
 






Read the entire diary, your answer lies within.
 






Thank You!

To all of you on here that have contributed information, thank you for your time and efforts, it definetely save me some major headaches.

My story...Back in early October I purchased a 00' Explorer Sport SOHC 4X4 as a winter "beater". Something dependable that could get through the Wisconsin winters that I don't need to be making a payment on. Entire truck is in great shape, was obviously well maintained. I did the normal look and smell of the trans fluid before purchasing, but I purchased it through an auction so there was no chance to drive it on the highway beforehand. I got to drive it around the parking lot and all that but it's tough to hit over 10mph in the lot it was parked in...

Anyways, long story short, about an hour after purchase I realized that the trans was slipping badly between 1-2 and very badly between 3-4, and was overall shifting "slowly". I knew nothing about the 5R55E, but quickly came to learn what the typical repair costs were ($1800...$2200...yikes!)...now my sweet buy was starting to look more like a money pit....

Luckily, I dug around long enough, and the first thing that came up on google when I typed in "5R55E slipping" it directed me roughly here.

I ended up doing a complete valve body replacement, because I couldn't get my trucks symptoms narrowed down to just a 2-3 flare, or any of the others listed, but in general it seemed like a valve body problem. I went with the unit from Transtar industries (mentioned on this post), and did the work myself using the pictures and torque diagrams from this forum...All in all it cost me around $370 for the parts, fluid, and new filter. All problems are fixed, it shifts like new. Unlike one of the posters has mentioned, this unit DOES NOT have all the upgrades (which I wasn't happy about) but it does have all new solenoids, springs, reworked bores, etc. Once I got into my trans, the gasket was probably the entire problem, but since my truck has 110K on it I figured the solenoids were on their last leg based on the information on this site.

I even know a guy (good friend) that owns a transmission repair shop, and he never even mentioned this as a possible fix. He wanted to buy a used one and do a complete replace...for around $1200.

So, THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.... you have saved me around $1000 already, and kept my relationship with my wife in good financial standing, and have actually gained a lot of confidence in myself as a mechanic. I plan to become a regular visitor to this forum as I discover other nuances of the SOHC Ford Explorer....
 






Glad we could be of assistance. Consider becoming a supporting member - an Elite. It will help us continue to provide the support we do. Best $20 you could spend.
 






Question for you guys, read half of the thread so far and got me really excited about rebuilding my transmission myself instead of paying 2000.00 everyone wants to rebuild it or for a new one.

I have a 97 ranger 4.0 automatic 2wd. These kits should work right?
My transmission slips 2-3. Is this called a "Flair"? I will be driving normal, then when it shifts from 2-3 rpms rise and truck slows down, so I am assuming this is a slip correct? Sorry if this sounded ignorant, just wanted to be 100% sure.

Anyways, which kit would be the best for me?

What all should I replace? I know this thread has loads of info, but everyone else has a different vehicle, so I want to be 100% sure.

If this fixes my problem, you dont know how much I love you all. haha.

My truck see's alot of offroad abuse, so Im hoping this might save it a little bit longer as long as Im not TOO hard on it. What is the average cost of adding a tranny cooler?

ANY help is appriciated. THANK!

[edit] Truck has 145k miles and has been doing this for the 6months I have had it. [/edit]
 






Well... I read the post top to bottom....very happy with the quality of this thread!!!

Looks to me as if the Ford TSB parts were mixed with aftermarket fixes with good to great results. I am going to start with purchasing ONLY the Ford TSB parts (on order as I write this).

I recently purchased a 99 Ranger 3.0 with 2-3 flair and slow reverse. I want to see if the "Ford Fix" cures my problems or if I'll have to include the "aftermarket" fixes as well to cure my problems.

I picked up this truck CHEEEEEEP as it was traded in at our dealership with known trans problems and a missing front bumper. Even if I have to put in a used or reman trans I'll be way ahead of the game and I really like this truck!

I'll also be sure to post the results of my "TSB only" install!
 






Thanks for the link, Glacier. Interesting reading on the EPC adjustment issue.
And thanks to you Tim, for clarifying it some more. One of these days I'll disassemble my old EPC and see what makes it tick, and see what that adjustment screw actually 'adjusts'.

I've heard or read somewhere that Ford's answer to the 2-3 flare is to re-program the PCM to increase the line pressure slightly. I'm sure they do it through the PCM because it's quick and easy, but I think our way through valve body mods is better and I hope longer lasting.

It'll be interesting to see if the troubles come back after more miles are on the mods. I hope not. I for one am getting tired of fixing Ford's engineering mistakes for them.....

Forgive me for chiming in WAYYY late and for the ridiculous length of this post, but I work for a company that makes transmission solenoids, and I'd like to offer some unsolicited facts and semi-educated opinions on the EPC solenoids used in the 5R55E transmissions. They are made by Bosch, and are what we in the biz call "direct acting" variable force solenoids (VFSs). These have a "motor" section, which has an armature that is preloaded by a spring in the high pressure direction and pulled against the spring by magnetic force that is somewhat proportional to the current flow through the coil. Coupled to the motor they have a hydraulic section, which is a spool valve in a bore. The direct acting label means that the armature pushes directly (mechanically) against the spool. This is in contrast to other varieties of solenoids, such as "two stage" VFSs in which the spool is moved by hydraulic force and the armature only opposes the hydraulic pressure that acts on one end of the spool, but over a small area such that not much FORCE is required. Anyway, in the Bosch direct acting, the force from the armature (spring force minus magnetic force) is opposed (balanced) by the force of the output pressure acting on the other end of the spool, and this "force balance" is achieved by the spool moving to either allow oil flow from the inlet to the output (to increase output pressure) or from the output to "exhaust" (to lower output pressure). If there is no downstream leakage, then the spool moves briefly in one direction to achieve the target pressure and then returns to a point where the spool edges overlap the sleeve windows and there is no flow in either direction. In reality, however, the leakage past the downstream valve requires some level of flow through the solenoid valve to maintain the commanded pressure.

As mentioned above, direct acting solenoids rely on the spring to directly apply force through the armature to the spool valve to move it in the high pressure direction, SOOO if it takes more force to move the spool valve than the spring can deliver, the spool doesn't move and the pressure doesn't go up. AND, since there is such a tight fit between the spool and its bore, any little piece of crap or accumulations of even smaller pieces of crap that wedge in between the spool and its sleeve can bind it up to where it doesn't move smoothly or possibly at all. This, of course, can cause erratic or low pressure output which can result in poor shifts or even clutch slippage to the point destruction.

Now is a good time to mention (although it's been mentioned in other locations on this board) that the 5R55 transmission is fully adaptive, which means that the computer tries to control shift timing (feel) using feedback from the speed sensors (input and output) to determine how long the clutches are slipping during a shift. If there is too much slippage (soft shift or maybe even flare), the computer will command more pressure for the next time, and if there is too little slippage (hard shift), then the computer will command less pressure next time. These adjustments are stored in memory for the various discrete levels of engine torque so that shift feel is targeted to what the calibrator feels is appropriate for the whole range of speed and torque conditions. This means that, within limits, making adjustments to the EPC pressure output either by adjusting the screw at the back or by installing resistors, etc., will not affect long term shift feel since the computer will compensate for the changes in order to get shifts back to their "ideal" timing. AND THIS is why it would make sense that Ford's fix for the 2-3 shift flare is to flash the computer... what they are doing, most likely, is programming a different, shorter "ideal" shift timing for the 2-3 upshift at the problem torque levels. Of course, if there are other mechanical issues at fault as well, then this by itself is not likely to cure all symptoms.

Which brings us back to the design of the EPC:rolleyes: ... as mentioned, the device is inherently weak due to the fact that the only force available to push the spool in a direction to increase the pressure comes from the armature spring, which itself must be relatively weak so that it can be overcome by magnetic force so that the output pressure can be varied over its working range (like 90psi to 0psi) as directed by the computer. And this weakness means that the part is going to be sensitive to contaminants that obstruct the smooth motion of the spool as well as any extra friction that might come from the surface of the spool bore being marred up over time. The spool itself is "anodized" which puts a very hard and wear resistant coating on the aluminum. On the other hand, two stage solenoids, such as the one used in the 4R70W (AODE) transmission, are quite robust against these issues since there is considerable hydraulic force available to move the spool through any contaminants that might build up around it, and the armature only has to act against the small force of hydraulic pressure coming through a small area (the poppet). This design comes with the compromise of higher "inlet pressure sensitivity (how much the output pressure changes as a result of supply pressure changes) and some built in leakage (usually not significant), but transmissions like the GM 4L60E and 4L80E and the Ford 4R70W/4R75 (and the CD4E) use this style and they really don't have any EPC wear issues.

Why bring all this up. Well, aside from the reason that some may find it interesting, I also happen to be working on an aftermarket EPC for the 4R/5R55 transmissions that happens to be a two stage type device... i.e., I'll probably be trying to sell these someday. :)
 



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Thanks for a tremendously informative post! It's always a treat to get some really deep knowledge on a specific issue,and your post above on the 5R55 EPC certainly fits that bill. I'll be re-reading it many times I'm sure. A Q. Is the same design (VFS) incorporated into the EPC in the "solenoid blocks" used in the W/S and N series of the 5R55? Based on failure rate I am going to assume so.

ps. I'll be your first customer.
 






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