Can't go over 65mph?

[proffessor1979]

Trust me, the Explorer can go faster than 70 MPH. Even a 90 HP Geo Storm, 1.6L SOHC, can hit 130 MPH. I personally have gotten an Ex to 80 MPH before, but vehicles with a larger center of gravity scare the crap out of me at higher speeds, so I backed down.

I know they can..I've had mine up there...but that's the speed that most of my issues were occurring, I couldn't go any faster

needless to say the issues are fixed.

As for the heater control valve, the part's like $15 bucks..I could put it in easily.


I could have put the MAF sensor in also..and in all honesty would have tried cleaning it first, but I was on a strict time frame. I have only one weekend this month that i can go to get my truck inspected...2 saturday's from now. I need it to pass. I didn't want to risk messing with it this weekend, not being able to clean/fix it, then having to order the part and have no time to install it.

but all in all everything is working now

thanks for your help guys

 

[proffessor1979]

Just looked at the pics of the HCV...I think I broke it myself now that i see the picture..I was trying to look something. What is that metal piece under neath? Is that the fuel pressure regulator? that's what i was trying to look for when I must have broken the HCV.

I looked at it, and looked at the part I ordered and the one I ordered looked way different so I was thinking that it wasn't the fuel pressure regulator after all.

If it is, then I guess i got the wrong part

that sucks

 

[ma96782]

Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
172; Lack of 02 switching; Bank 1
176; Laco of O2 switching; Bank 2

That right there was the majority of the problem about the lack of "higher speed." That would cause "rough riding or a choked feeling motor" as the computer would either overly lean out OR over richen the A/F mixture.

You said:

get up to around 65 -70 MPH and around 3K -3.5K RPM

Unless your gears are BIG, that's NOT RIGHT. Try taking it out again (freeway drive)................see IF you'll get lower RPMs for the speed................now, that you said you have, "zero problems."

Aloha, Mark

 

[Rhett]

Even a 90 HP Geo Storm, 1.6L SOHC, can hit 130 MPH.

That's because a Storm weighs like 300 lbs. I can practically bench press one

 

[Rhett]

Just looked at the pics of the HCV...I think I broke it myself now that i see the picture..I was trying to look something. What is that metal piece under neath? Is that the fuel pressure regulator?

No, that metal thing is part of the HCV. That's the valve itself. The plastic tubes above are just--tubes. haha. I think the plastic breaks down over years and years of hot-cold cycles, and the HCV's will just DISENTIGRATE. Ryf in the other thread, had a suggesstion to use an S-10 HCV, which he says are metal. Maybe stainless, I would hope.

If it is, then I guess i got the wrong part
that sucks

What did you get? They don't all have the metal valve--my new one is plastic. When ordering, all you have to say is Heater Control Valve for 1994 Explorer. I got one from AutoZone, they had it in stock. With your weather in NJ, you may not really need the HCV. You could probably run with out it, early explorers, Bronco II's don't have them, if I recall...

 

[proffessor1979]

No, that metal thing is part of the HCV. That's the valve itself. The plastic tubes above are just--tubes. haha. I think the plastic breaks down over years and years of hot-cold cycles, and the HCV's will just DISENTIGRATE. Ryf in the other thread, had a suggesstion to use an S-10 HCV, which he says are metal. Maybe stainless, I would hope.



What did you get? They don't all have the metal valve--my new one is plastic. When ordering, all you have to say is Heater Control Valve for 1994 Explorer. I got one from AutoZone, they had it in stock. With your weather in NJ, you may not really need the HCV. You could probably run with out it, early explorers, Bronco II's don't have them, if I recall...

I was tlaking about the fuel pressure regulator..i ordered that, and it looks too big. I thought the HCV's were plastic, how is the metal piece the actual valve? In the picture there is that metal piece with the cylindrical part, which looks like a fuel pressure regulator like the one i got in the mail, but a lot smaller.



As for the RPM's everything seems fine now. And the 60-65 3K RPM was in D, not OD.

 

[proffessor1979]

So where is the fuel pressure regulator located anwyay?

 

[ma96782]

As for the RPM's everything seems fine now. And the 60-65 3K RPM was in D, not OD.

As we said in Hawaii:

"That's why, hard."

Aloha, Mark

 

[Rhett]

I thought the HCV's were plastic, how is the metal piece the actual valve?

heh. It just is!! The metal part is the valve itself...and it's attached to the plastic pieces above it. The plastic tubes are nothing--just there to connect everything. All of the OEM valves I've seen were metal. But most likely if you buy an HCV today, it will be all plastic, including the valve.

In the picture there is that metal piece with the cylindrical part, which looks like a fuel pressure regulator like the one i got in the mail, but a lot smaller.

The HCV valve and the FPR can look similar...

As for the RPM's everything seems fine now. And the 60-65 3K RPM was in D, not OD.

you must have 3.73 gears then. That's good. You wouldn't want 3.27 or 3.55...

 

[proffessor1979]

I think I am just going to return my fpr anyway, it doesn't seem like I need it. No sense keeping a $70 part for no reason.

 

[Rhett]

So where is the fuel pressure regulator located anwyay?

On top of the engine, on the passenger side of the engine. Look at the silvery-gray upper intake manifold. Probably partially hidden by the upper radiator hose. It will be under all of that.

Find the FUEL RAIL, which will have a schrader valve (for testing fuel pressure) with a black cap on it. The FPR is attached to the fuel rail. It will have a vacuum line going into it also. It's a cylindrical-shaped object.

 

[proffessor1979]

ok thanks..that's what i thought that i had to follow the fuel rail. Apparently I over looked it. What do i have to disconnect to get at it?

 

[Rhett]

You mean to change the FPR? Getting 'at' the FPR might require you to remove some things on top of it...depends on how your upper rad hose is, usually they can get in the way at just the wrong times.

To change the actual FPR: You have to depressurize the fuel system for starters, else you'll get a tasty gas bath. A shade-tree way to do that is while the truck is running, pull the fuel pump relay (in the relay center under the hood, passenger side) and let the engine die. That's a half-&&& way of depressurizing, but it works well enough for what you're doing.

Disconnect the fuel lines going into the FPR, and the vac line. While you're in there, out of curiousity check to see if there is any gas in the vacuum line (if there is, that indicates a failed FPR, which is no problemo if you are changing it.).

Do you think your FPR is bad? Telltale signs are sooty exhaust, and poor mileage, rough running.

 

[proffessor1979]

Originally i thought that might have been an issue with the problems I was having so I bought one. I'm thinking since i have a new one I might as well use it. I mean I could ship it back, but I'm not sure if I want to go through all that. Plus I'm not sure if I'll ever get around to shipping it back. I keep forgetting once i get home to box it up and go through the process. Then it takes like 10 weeks or some long time to get my money.

I meant what do i have to disconnect in order to get at it. So just the upper rad hose would be the only thing?

 

[Rhett]

You shouldn't even have to unhook the upper rad hose. I only said that because often it's nice to free up as much room as possible when working, and draining out a tad bit of coolant and un-doing a hose clamp is pretty painless. If I were doing it, though, I wouldn't even bother with the upper rad hose. The FPR is pretty easy to get at.

You could remove the throttle body splash shield, and throttle linkage bracket too, just to give you more room to work, but it's not necessary.

If I were you I would keep the new FPR, but don't install it until you need to. there is no point in removing a perfectly functioning FPR. This way, you will have a spare.
I have all kinds of spares (alternator, rotors, HCV, TB, MAF, cone air filter, plug wires, etc. etc.) so I'm READY haha.

 

[watisgood]

how about you make sure th etuck isnt in 4 wheel driver before doing anything